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clutch / transmission question



 
 
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  #21  
Old April 27th 09, 01:41 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.mazda.miata
pws[_1_]
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Posts: 1,424
Default clutch / transmission question

Chris D'Agnolo wrote:
> Pat, it doesn't sound like I'm going to be paying "them" anything. It
> sounds like I need to know what your favorite beer is and we'll have to
> test it out on LCR after we fight it for a few hours ;-)
>
> I think I'm going to do the fluid change and see if I'm fortunate enough
> to have it resolved by that (which I'm doubtful about). Then I'll move
> on to other options if / when it get annoying enough.
>
> Later,
> Chris
> 99BBB


Sounds like a plan. I will send you my number in a private email in case
you have lost it and we can knock this out one day soon.

My tranny is from the '96 model. I think that it is fully compatible
with your 1999 model, but we should make sure about that.
(anyone here know 100% for certain on this?)

This is the one that has 75,000 mostly gentle miles on it, working
perfectly when I took the car down a few years ago.
Regular redline fluid changes since 10,000 miles when I took possession
of it.

Another question, any idea what a "typical" charge is for a Miata
5-speed transmission rebuild?

Thanks!

Pat

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  #22  
Old April 28th 09, 04:47 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.mazda.miata
Chris D'Agnolo[_2_]
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Posts: 587
Default clutch / transmission question

Chuck, thanks for the addl thoughts. I can go in there and check this stuff
out and meanwhile, I'll not get too 'creative' with the fluid choice ;-)

Thanks again,
Chris
99BBB

"Chuck" > wrote in message
...
>I doubt that this will be of any help in "fixing" the third gear grind--
> But, one never knows.
> Remove the various stuff needed to get to the tranny shifter rubber boots.
> One or both may be bad, but that's another issue at this point.
> Remove the outer boot far enough to get to the inner boot and the shifter
> mounting bolts that go thru the inner boot flange.
> Check the shifter mounting bolts to make sure that they are reasonably
> tight.
> If so, there is a possibility that the plastic donut on the bottom of the
> shifter is worn.
> So, the next step would be to remove the shifter and check.
> And another gotcha-- The shifter and ring may not have been installed
> correctly when the clutch was replaced,
> if the third gear grinding started soon after the clutch was replaced.
>
> Once in third gear, is there any tendancy to "pop out" of gear if you just
> touch the shifter?
>
> As far as lubricant and shifting/grinding.
> The wrong lubricant screws up the coefficient of friction that the syncro
> "cones" are designed for.
> For instance, lubricant intended specifically for limited slip clutch
> plate type differentials contains an additive that is intended to reduce
> or stop "shudder" caused by "chattering" or repeated quick engagement and
> release of the clutch pack. In otherwords, if the lubricant is too
> slippery, the cones don't work properly, and grinding can be a result.
> Double clutching usually solves the problem.
>
>


 




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