Warn HS9500I wiring

Again I will ask, what was wrong with it before, or did it just go in
for a 'tune up'?

My Warn HS9000i has two power wires, a positive cable to the battery and
a negative cable to the battery. I do not believe they can work without
the negative cable to the battery.....

'If' the brushes were bad and it quit working or got really slow, then
the solenoid contacts can easily be arced out so now they won't pass
power any more.

Do you have a multimeter? It is really easy to see if the solenoid is
passing power out that way.

Mike

wrote:
>
> Mike, as I've said, I had the motor taken apart by an electrical shop
> and new brushes, etc. installed. I can't confirm what they actually did
> in there but when I function test the motor via by-passing the
> solenoids, it works in both directions.
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > Clicking normally means the solenoid is energizing, just the output has
> > issues.
> >
> > Bad brushes can draw too much juice and arc out solenoid contacts. If
> > your solenoids open up, they usually can be cleaned or the contact bolts
> > actually flipped around to give a new surface. On some you can flip the
> > main contact washer too.
> >
> > If you can't open them and have verified the output connections are
> > clean, then you might have to replace one.
> >
> > I haven't had my warn HS9000i apart but if it's wired like Bill's
> > diagram, then I would first suspect circuit C for dirty connections.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Initially, I took it into a shop that did some work on the motor, e.g.,
> > > installed new brushes, etc. When I finally got it back it was all
> > > disassembled except for the motor. I have since reassembled everything
> > > and tested the motor for rotation, etc. Now it seems that I'm having a
> > > problem with the solenoids or connections.
> > >
> > > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > > What was it doing wrong before?
> > > >
> > > > It does sound like the solenoid isn't passing power though.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> > > >
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks for the diagram.
> > > > > I got it all wired up and all I get is "click" from the solenoids!
> > > > > I removed the wiring and tested the motor for forward/ backward
> > > > > rotation by connecting the battery and a jumper wire to A, F1 & F2
> > > > > terminals..... all seems fine. Is this a faulty solenoid or something
> > > > > along that line? I've made sure that all my connections are clean and
> > > > > tight.
> > > > > Any ideas?

I have an HS9500i and I thought I had a problem with the soleloids when I
realized when I had cleaned my battery terminals I had forgotten to
re-connected the winch's negative battery cable and it was grounding through
the chassis.

There is a ground terminal on the bottom of the motor housing that should be
directly connected to the negative battery terminal; Bill's diagram doesn't
reflect that.

> wrote in message
ups.com...
> Right now I've got it on a bench with a test battery nearby. I'm
> running the ground cable from the battery to the winch mounting bracket
> and grounding it that way. Is this perhaps the problem? Where should I
> be running the ground cable to?
>
> Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>> It'll do that if there is no direct ground connection to the battery and
>> is
>> chassis grounded, but you're connecting directly to the battery, I
>> assume.
>>
>> > wrote in message
>> oups.com...
>> > Thanks for the diagram.
>> > I got it all wired up and all I get is "click" from the solenoids!
>> > I removed the wiring and tested the motor for forward/ backward
>> > rotation by connecting the battery and a jumper wire to A, F1 & F2
>> > terminals..... all seems fine. Is this a faulty solenoid or something
>> > along that line? I've made sure that all my connections are clean and
>> > tight.
>> > Any ideas?
>> >
>

Mike, I was using it on a unit driven by my hired man. He said it
wasn't working so I took it in for repair/ tuneup/
refurbishment...........
I did ground to the motor case on the bottom of the motor. The thing
still only "clicked". I have since tested each solenoid and found one
that was shifting but not making connection. I'll buy another one
tomorrow and give it another go. Thanks for all the suggestions. It all
seems so clear once you get a discussion going about a particular
problem!!
Randy
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> I have an HS9500i and I thought I had a problem with the soleloids when I
> realized when I had cleaned my battery terminals I had forgotten to
> re-connected the winch's negative battery cable and it was grounding through
> the chassis.
>
> There is a ground terminal on the bottom of the motor housing that should be
> directly connected to the negative battery terminal; Bill's diagram doesn't
> reflect that.
>
> > wrote in message
> ups.com...
> > Right now I've got it on a bench with a test battery nearby. I'm
> > running the ground cable from the battery to the winch mounting bracket
> > and grounding it that way. Is this perhaps the problem? Where should I
> > be running the ground cable to?
> >
> > Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> >> It'll do that if there is no direct ground connection to the battery and
> >> is
> >> chassis grounded, but you're connecting directly to the battery, I
> >> assume.
> >>
> >> > wrote in message
> >> oups.com...
> >> > Thanks for the diagram.
> >> > I got it all wired up and all I get is "click" from the solenoids!
> >> > I removed the wiring and tested the motor for forward/ backward
> >> > rotation by connecting the battery and a jumper wire to A, F1 & F2
> >> > terminals..... all seems fine. Is this a faulty solenoid or something
> >> > along that line? I've made sure that all my connections are clean and
> >> > tight.
> >> > Any ideas?
> >> >
> >

Bingo.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
http://www.billhughes.com/

Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> It'll do that if there is no direct ground connection to the battery and is
> chassis grounded, but you're connecting directly to the battery, I assume.

Why is it necessary to have 4 solenoids to operate the winch? Is this
quantity required in order to complete the wiring or is it something to
do with the amount of heat generated by the solenoids?
When I went to buy a solenoid today, one supplier said there are "long
use" solenoids and "intermittent use" solenoids as used on starting
motors. Is there a big difference in the construction?
How long should I safely be able to operate the winch before
overheating the solenoids?

L.W.(Bill) Hughes III wrote:
> Bingo.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> http://www.billhughes.com/
>
> Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> >
> > It'll do that if there is no direct ground connection to the battery and is
> > chassis grounded, but you're connecting directly to the battery, I assume.

Why is it necessary to have 4 solenoids to operate the winch? Is this
quantity required in order to complete the wiring or is it something to
do with the amount of heat generated by the solenoids?
When I went to buy a solenoid today, one supplier said there are "long
use" solenoids and "intermittent use" solenoids as used on starting
motors. Is there a big difference in the construction?
How long should I safely be able to operate the winch before
overheating the solenoids?

L.W.(Bill) Hughes III wrote:
> Bingo.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> http://www.billhughes.com/
>
> Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> >
> > It'll do that if there is no direct ground connection to the battery and is
> > chassis grounded, but you're connecting directly to the battery, I assume.

Why is it necessary to have 4 solenoids to operate the winch? Is this
quantity required in order to complete the wiring or is it something to
do with the amount of heat generated by the solenoids?
When I went to buy a solenoid today, one supplier said there are "long
use" solenoids and "intermittent use" solenoids as used on starting
motors. Is there a big difference in the construction? The supplier had
to order some long use solenoids in for me.
How long should I safely be able to operate the winch before
overheating the solenoids?


L.W.(Bill) Hughes III wrote:
> Bingo.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> http://www.billhughes.com/
>
> Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> >
> > It'll do that if there is no direct ground connection to the battery and is
> > chassis grounded, but you're connecting directly to the battery, I assume.

The 4 are needed for the way DC electricity works in two directions. In
order not to have a dead short when you turn it on forward, you need a
second solenoid to break the reverse circuit. Then when you go reverse,
you need another second solenoid to break the forward circuit.

These are long use solenoids that can be smoked out from heavy use even
as you have found out. An intermittent one will let the smoke out on
the first heavy load.

The HS9000i I have can load up enough to smoke the heat shrink off the
battery cable connectors if you stall it while bending a hook open.
That would instantly kill an intermittent solenoid. My warn solenoids
are still working......

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Randy wrote:
>
> Why is it necessary to have 4 solenoids to operate the winch? Is this
> quantity required in order to complete the wiring or is it something to
> do with the amount of heat generated by the solenoids?
> When I went to buy a solenoid today, one supplier said there are "long
> use" solenoids and "intermittent use" solenoids as used on starting
> motors. Is there a big difference in the construction?
> How long should I safely be able to operate the winch before
> overheating the solenoids?
>
> L.W.(Bill) Hughes III wrote:
> > Bingo.
> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > http://www.billhughes.com/
> >
> > Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> > >
> > > It'll do that if there is no direct ground connection to the battery and is
> > > chassis grounded, but you're connecting directly to the battery, I assume.

Hi Randy,
http://www.billhughes.com/temp/warnSolenoidsDiagram.jpg We see the
solenoids are not used in series as if one would not be enough. They use
two each direction. We know what triggers a solenoid is one small twelve
volt wire, so from the diagram in and out control switch we see reeling
in would power solenoids two and three, making the connects battery
positive to motor B through to A and out to C through to ground. Reeling
out swaps A and B. The solenoids are like a '56 Ford would use, their
the same as commercial trucks. I would say the solenoids are in less
danger of melting than the motor, that like the best truck starter would
last about thirty seconds, for a winch that would be under full pull,
then you have to let it cool.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
http://www.billhughes.com/

Randy wrote:
>
> Why is it necessary to have 4 solenoids to operate the winch? Is this
> quantity required in order to complete the wiring or is it something to
> do with the amount of heat generated by the solenoids?
> When I went to buy a solenoid today, one supplier said there are "long
> use" solenoids and "intermittent use" solenoids as used on starting
> motors. Is there a big difference in the construction?
> How long should I safely be able to operate the winch before
> overheating the solenoids?
>
> L.W.(Bill) Hughes III wrote:
> > Bingo.
> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > http://www.billhughes.com/
> >
> > Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> > >
> > > It'll do that if there is no direct ground connection to the battery and is
> > > chassis grounded, but you're connecting directly to the battery, I assume.

I meant the word parallel, instead of series.
>
> Hi Randy,
> http://www.billhughes.com/temp/warnSolenoidsDiagram.jpg We see the
> solenoids are not used in parallel as if one would not be enough. They use
> two each direction. We know what triggers a solenoid is one small twelve
> volt wire, so from the diagram in and out control switch we see reeling
> in would power solenoids two and three, making the connects battery
> positive to motor B through to A and out to C through to ground. Reeling
> out swaps A and B. The solenoids are like a '56 Ford would use, their
> the same as commercial trucks. I would say the solenoids are in less
> danger of melting than the motor, that like the best truck starter would
> last about thirty seconds, for a winch that would be under full pull,
> then you have to let it cool.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> http://www.billhughes.com/
>
> Randy wrote:
> >
> > Why is it necessary to have 4 solenoids to operate the winch? Is this
> > quantity required in order to complete the wiring or is it something to
> > do with the amount of heat generated by the solenoids?
> > When I went to buy a solenoid today, one supplier said there are "long
> > use" solenoids and "intermittent use" solenoids as used on starting
> > motors. Is there a big difference in the construction?
> > How long should I safely be able to operate the winch before
> > overheating the solenoids?
> >
> > L.W.(Bill) Hughes III wrote:
> > > Bingo.
> > > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > > http://www.billhughes.com/
> > >
> > > Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> > > >
> > > > It'll do that if there is no direct ground connection to the battery and is
> > > > chassis grounded, but you're connecting directly to the battery, I assume.