disable factory alarm system on 96 SL1

The inside of the buttons in both my remotes have melted enough
over the years that they rarely work any more, so the only way to
start my car is to use the over ride button to disable the kill
switch.

It is a 12 year old car, so it doesn't need an alarm system. Is
there an easy way to disable it? I don't care if the keyless entry
works or not since the remotes don't work anyway.

Thanks,

John
--
John Clear - http://www.clear-prop.org/

In article >,
-Cronus- > wrote:
>In article >,
>says...
>>
>> The inside of the buttons in both my remotes have melted enough
>
>Huh? Wow ok... Thats a first.

The black bit (graphite?) that touches the contacts on the circuit
board has worn away over the years, and leaves a black goo over
the circuit board.

>> over the years that they rarely work any more, so the only way to
>> start my car is to use the over ride button to disable the kill
>> switch.
>
>What? I don't recall the S series having those things.

The over ride is a button under the steering column right where
the plastic piece in front of your knees ends just over the peddles.

>Sorry but whatever you are talking about does not sound like a factory
>alarm system. What does the back of your key fobs say?

The fob looks like a standard GM one of that vintage. The
back of it says:

GM ########-#
CANADA #########
MODEL/FCC ID: X######X

I'm not sure which of the numbers are generic, and which is the
code to unlock my car, so I'm not posting them. The X's are letters.

Thanks,

John
--
John Clear - http://www.clear-prop.org/

hmm...most alarms of that time had a "valet" switch that disabled the alarm
system. Yours is a push button type? Valet switches are/were toggle
switches (usually small and silver/chrome) and were located high up on the
panel next to your left foot and you usually had to feel for it of get under
and look for it. The purpose of these was to disable the alarm system when
you gave your car to the valet, or left it at a garage for service and
didn't want the thing going off. To disable/enable, the key must be in the
"ON" position when the switch is thrown or nothing happens. You should also
have a small (usually red) LED light someplace on the dash. When flashing,
the alarm is on - If holding steady, the alarm is deactivated. If you have
only a push button type, I'm guessing that when the alarm is screaming, you
get in and turn the key to "ON" and hit the button and it stops? If so,
then the button is just simply opening a switch and breaking the circuit.
As I'm not sure of the exact setup or wiring, you could try bypassing the
switch (while the key is on) and see if it disables the alarm. I would
defiantly look for the valet switch first though. They almost all had them,
but what your end goal would be is to get the LED light constantly on....

IYM

"John Clear" > wrote in message
...
> In article >,
> -Cronus- > wrote:
>>In article >,
>>says...
>>>
>>> The inside of the buttons in both my remotes have melted enough
>>
>>Huh? Wow ok... Thats a first.
>
> The black bit (graphite?) that touches the contacts on the circuit
> board has worn away over the years, and leaves a black goo over
> the circuit board.
>
>>> over the years that they rarely work any more, so the only way to
>>> start my car is to use the over ride button to disable the kill
>>> switch.
>>
>>What? I don't recall the S series having those things.
>
> The over ride is a button under the steering column right where
> the plastic piece in front of your knees ends just over the peddles.
>
>>Sorry but whatever you are talking about does not sound like a factory
>>alarm system. What does the back of your key fobs say?
>
> The fob looks like a standard GM one of that vintage. The
> back of it says:
>
> GM ########-#
> CANADA #########
> MODEL/FCC ID: X######X
>
> I'm not sure which of the numbers are generic, and which is the
> code to unlock my car, so I'm not posting them. The X's are letters.
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
> --
> John Clear - http://www.clear-prop.org/
>

BTW - None of those numbers have anything to do with unlocking your
car....They are simply the GM model number of the transmitter, it was made
in Canada so it has that part no on it too, as well as because it's a
wireless transmitter it was an FCC #. The code/frequency for unlocking your
car/alarm is stored permanently inside on the circuit board. This is why
it's usually a little bit of a hassle when you need a new remote...They have
to be programmed to work with your car.

Also, regarding the disabling of your alarm - If you can't get it disabled
or figure it out based on the info you got, you can always just bring it to
one of those car stereo / alarm places. Just tell them your story and ask
if they can permanently shut it down. A guy will walk out the door with a
smile and a pair of wire cutters and come back in less than a minute later,
saying "done - that was easy". He may not even charge you for it, but if
you were to throw the guy $10 he'd appreciate it...

IYM

> GM ########-#
> CANADA #########
> MODEL/FCC ID: X######X
>
> I'm not sure which of the numbers are generic, and which is the
> code to unlock my car, so I'm not posting them. The X's are letters.
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
> --
> John Clear - http://www.clear-prop.org/
>

John Clear wrote:

> The fob looks like a standard GM one of that vintage. The
> back of it says:
>
> GM ########-#
> CANADA #########
> MODEL/FCC ID: X######X
>
> I'm not sure which of the numbers are generic, and which is the
> code to unlock my car, so I'm not posting them. The X's are letters.

None of them have anything to do with a code to unlock your car.

The dealer will have the immobilizer tool to disable the factory alarm.
It's not as simple as generic after-market alarms where you wire a relay
into the starter circuit for starter disabling. You can't just cut one
wire and disable these alarms. There is a place that sells the
information on disabling the factory alarms, see
"http://www.vehiclewires.com/".

Those GM remotes are pretty cheap and are widely available.
http://www.originalkeyless.com/produ...productId=1856

When you sell your car, if ever, the new owner will want the keyless entry.

In article >, <IYM> wrote:
>hmm...most alarms of that time had a "valet" switch that disabled the alarm
>system. Yours is a push button type? Valet switches are/were toggle
>switches (usually small and silver/chrome) and were located high up on the
>panel next to your left foot and you usually had to feel for it of get under
>and look for it. The purpose of these was to disable the alarm system when
>you gave your car to the valet, or left it at a garage for service and
>didn't want the thing going off. To disable/enable, the key must be in the
>"ON" position when the switch is thrown or nothing happens. You should also
>have a small (usually red) LED light someplace on the dash. When flashing,
>the alarm is on - If holding steady, the alarm is deactivated. If you have
>only a push button type, I'm guessing that when the alarm is screaming, you
>get in and turn the key to "ON" and hit the button and it stops? If so,
>then the button is just simply opening a switch and breaking the circuit.
>As I'm not sure of the exact setup or wiring, you could try bypassing the
>switch (while the key is on) and see if it disables the alarm. I would
>defiantly look for the valet switch first though. They almost all had them,
>but what your end goal would be is to get the LED light constantly on....

Hmm, maybe I don't have a factory system. I don't have the valet
switch or the blinking LED. I assumed I did since I bought the
car off a dealer lot, but from all the various posts, it doesn't
sound like a factory system.

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone sent. I'm going to bring it
by an aftermarket alarm shop and see what they can do.

John
--
John Clear - http://www.clear-prop.org/

John Clear wrote:
> In article >, <IYM> wrote:
>> hmm...most alarms of that time had a "valet" switch that disabled the alarm
>> system. Yours is a push button type? Valet switches are/were toggle
>> switches (usually small and silver/chrome) and were located high up on the
>> panel next to your left foot and you usually had to feel for it of get under
>> and look for it. The purpose of these was to disable the alarm system when
>> you gave your car to the valet, or left it at a garage for service and
>> didn't want the thing going off. To disable/enable, the key must be in the
>> "ON" position when the switch is thrown or nothing happens. You should also
>> have a small (usually red) LED light someplace on the dash. When flashing,
>> the alarm is on - If holding steady, the alarm is deactivated. If you have
>> only a push button type, I'm guessing that when the alarm is screaming, you
>> get in and turn the key to "ON" and hit the button and it stops? If so,
>> then the button is just simply opening a switch and breaking the circuit.
>> As I'm not sure of the exact setup or wiring, you could try bypassing the
>> switch (while the key is on) and see if it disables the alarm. I would
>> defiantly look for the valet switch first though. They almost all had them,
>> but what your end goal would be is to get the LED light constantly on....
>
> Hmm, maybe I don't have a factory system. I don't have the valet
> switch or the blinking LED.

If you have the GM remote, then you have a factory system.

Those toggle valet switches and flashing LEDs are on after-market systems.

In article >,
-Cronus- > wrote:
>
>If you have GM key fobs then it is a GM alarm system.
>If you didn't see my post with the link go back and look.

http://saturnfans.com/forums/showthr...ighlight=alarm

I saw it, but thought it needed a working remote. I re-read it,
and saw it was key-cycles, and tried it, but it hasn't worked.
There is a comment that the alarm section only work on 97-99 cars, so
that might be the issue since my car is a 96.

John
--
John Clear - http://www.clear-prop.org/