91 e34 2 litre still over heating

Hi
I just changed the water pump and belt, took it for a quick spin and it soon
went almost into the red...i just went around the block and got home.

I wasnt in stood traffic, and the fan was spinning, but it soon went over
the half way mark.
Only thing i can think of is the thermostat thingy...or am i missing
something else?
thanks

> I just changed the water pump and belt, took it for a quick spin and it soon
> went almost into the red...i just went around the block and got home.
>
> I wasnt in stood traffic, and the fan was spinning, but it soon went over
> the half way mark.

I'll bet you didn't bleed it right.

With a cold engine, remove the radiator cap and open the bleed screw.
Have the heater full on.

Run the engine until it gets warm, topping up as needed. When it gets
warm put the cap back on and shut the bleed screw. Leave it until the
temp gauge is in the middle then open the bleed screw whilst revving the
engine lightly. Close the bleed screw when there are no more air
bubbles.

Let it cool over night then top up the coolant if needed.

Works for me.


--
Who needs a life when you've got Unix? :-)
Email: , John G.Burns B.Eng, Bonny Scotland
Web : http://www.unixnerd.demon.co.uk - The Ultimate BMW Homepage!
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"John Burns" > wrote in message
...
> > I just changed the water pump and belt, took it for a quick spin and it
soon
> > went almost into the red...i just went around the block and got home.
> >
> > I wasnt in stood traffic, and the fan was spinning, but it soon went
over
> > the half way mark.
>
> I'll bet you didn't bleed it right.
>
> With a cold engine, remove the radiator cap and open the bleed screw.
> Have the heater full on.
>

Ok wheres the bleed screw? is that the very bottom of the radiatior?

> Run the engine until it gets warm, topping up as needed. When it gets
> warm put the cap back on and shut the bleed screw. Leave it until the
> temp gauge is in the middle then open the bleed screw whilst revving the
> engine lightly. Close the bleed screw when there are no more air
> bubbles.

I did that, kept topping up until it got warm, had it running idle until the
gauge hit midway.

>
> Let it cool over night then top up the coolant if needed.
>
> Works for me.

ok will try that cheers....never bled a radiator as such. thanks

>
>
> --
> Who needs a life when you've got Unix? :-)
> Email: , John G.Burns B.Eng, Bonny Scotland
> Web : http://www.unixnerd.demon.co.uk - The Ultimate BMW Homepage!
> Need Sun or HP Unix kit? http://www.unixnerd.demon.co.uk/unix.html
> www.Strathspey.co.uk - Quality Binoculars at a Sensible price

"Jules" > wrote
> "John Burns" > wrote
>> I'll bet you didn't bleed it right.
>>
>> With a cold engine, remove the radiator cap and open the bleed screw.
>> Have the heater full on.
>
> Ok wheres the bleed screw? is that the very bottom of the radiatior?

The bleed screw is on top of the thermostat housing IIRC.

FloydR

"Floyd Rogers" > wrote in message
...
> "Jules" > wrote
> > "John Burns" > wrote
> >> I'll bet you didn't bleed it right.
> >>
> >> With a cold engine, remove the radiator cap and open the bleed screw.
> >> Have the heater full on.
> >
> > Ok wheres the bleed screw? is that the very bottom of the radiatior?
>
> The bleed screw is on top of the thermostat housing IIRC.
>
> FloydR
>
Yes that sounds about right. i thought of that just after i posted my last
message...as i was looking at the screw earlier wondering what it was
for.......never 'bled' a radiator in 20 years and all my other cars were
70's Toyotas etc, this is my first BMW....i know i sound stupid...im not,
its just so new to me, like i have never changed a belt tht was conencted to
PAS? etc.
>

"John Burns" > wrote in message
...
> > I just changed the water pump and belt, took it for a quick spin and it
soon
> > went almost into the red...i just went around the block and got home.
> >
> > I wasnt in stood traffic, and the fan was spinning, but it soon went
over
> > the half way mark.
>
> I'll bet you didn't bleed it right.
>
> With a cold engine, remove the radiator cap and open the bleed screw.
> Have the heater full on.
>
> Run the engine until it gets warm, topping up as needed. When it gets
> warm put the cap back on and shut the bleed screw. Leave it until the
> temp gauge is in the middle then open the bleed screw whilst revving the
> engine lightly. Close the bleed screw when there are no more air
> bubbles.
>
> Let it cool over night then top up the coolant if needed.
>
> Works for me.

I totally did that right...stil the same, i changed the thermostat...same
problem, points towards the red v quickly after a spin around the block....i
took of teh radiator and flushed it both ways......after a while it came
clean, but when put back on, like a hour a ago, it was soon over half on the
gauge going towrds red (never let it get into the red though)

SO it must be the radiator then....if i put a water hose in the rubber from
the top of the engine, it would come out at the botom after going through
the block, so thats ok. its just not circualting, the radiator is always
stone cold on the metal fins....

Hope someone else can offer advice....thanks

>
>
> --
> Who needs a life when you've got Unix? :-)
> Email: , John G.Burns B.Eng, Bonny Scotland
> Web : http://www.unixnerd.demon.co.uk - The Ultimate BMW Homepage!
> Need Sun or HP Unix kit? http://www.unixnerd.demon.co.uk/unix.html
> www.Strathspey.co.uk - Quality Binoculars at a Sensible price

On Sat, 22 Jul 2006 14:00:39 GMT, "Jules"
> wrote:

>
>"John Burns" > wrote in message
...
>> > I just changed the water pump and belt, took it for a quick spin and it
>soon
>> > went almost into the red...i just went around the block and got home.
>> >
>> > I wasnt in stood traffic, and the fan was spinning, but it soon went
>over
>> > the half way mark.
>>
>> I'll bet you didn't bleed it right.
>>
>> With a cold engine, remove the radiator cap and open the bleed screw.
>> Have the heater full on.
>>
>> Run the engine until it gets warm, topping up as needed. When it gets
>> warm put the cap back on and shut the bleed screw. Leave it until the
>> temp gauge is in the middle then open the bleed screw whilst revving the
>> engine lightly. Close the bleed screw when there are no more air
>> bubbles.
>>
>> Let it cool over night then top up the coolant if needed.
>>
>> Works for me.
>
>I totally did that right...stil the same, i changed the thermostat...same
>problem, points towards the red v quickly after a spin around the block....i
>took of teh radiator and flushed it both ways......after a while it came
>clean, but when put back on, like a hour a ago, it was soon over half on the
>gauge going towrds red (never let it get into the red though)
>
>SO it must be the radiator then....if i put a water hose in the rubber from
>the top of the engine, it would come out at the botom after going through
>the block, so thats ok. its just not circualting, the radiator is always
>stone cold on the metal fins....
>
>Hope someone else can offer advice....thanks

try putting the front of the car on ramps so the front of the car is
up higher, then do the whole bleed procedure again.

"RT" > wrote in message
...
> On Sat, 22 Jul 2006 14:00:39 GMT, "Jules"
> > wrote:
>
> >
> >"John Burns" > wrote in message
> ...
> >> > I just changed the water pump and belt, took it for a quick spin and
it
> >soon
> >> > went almost into the red...i just went around the block and got home.
> >> >
> >> > I wasnt in stood traffic, and the fan was spinning, but it soon went
> >over
> >> > the half way mark.
> >>
> >> I'll bet you didn't bleed it right.
> >>
> >> With a cold engine, remove the radiator cap and open the bleed screw.
> >> Have the heater full on.
> >>
> >> Run the engine until it gets warm, topping up as needed. When it gets
> >> warm put the cap back on and shut the bleed screw. Leave it until the
> >> temp gauge is in the middle then open the bleed screw whilst revving
the
> >> engine lightly. Close the bleed screw when there are no more air
> >> bubbles.
> >>
> >> Let it cool over night then top up the coolant if needed.
> >>
> >> Works for me.
> >
> >I totally did that right...stil the same, i changed the thermostat...same
> >problem, points towards the red v quickly after a spin around the
block....i
> >took of teh radiator and flushed it both ways......after a while it came
> >clean, but when put back on, like a hour a ago, it was soon over half on
the
> >gauge going towrds red (never let it get into the red though)
> >
> >SO it must be the radiator then....if i put a water hose in the rubber
from
> >the top of the engine, it would come out at the botom after going through
> >the block, so thats ok. its just not circualting, the radiator is always
> >stone cold on the metal fins....
> >
> >Hope someone else can offer advice....thanks
>
> try putting the front of the car on ramps so the front of the car is
> up higher, then do the whole bleed procedure again.
>

ok will try that. the hose into the engine, and the one coming out at the
bottom got hot, but the rad stayed cold. we bled it for ages, but the rad
stayed cold.....sorry if i sound stupid, never had to bleed a rad ever.
thanks