96 grand cherokee abs light

Yes, I copied and pasted the wrong link. Seeing as that light
doesn't bother you, why don't read a couple of Google searches:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&i...=Google+Search
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
http://www.billhughes.com/

Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> ABS warning light is not the same as the brake warning light, try reading
> your link.

nunya did pass the time by typing:
> in line 6 2wd. 205k miles.automatic, its green.
^^^ I found your problem.

> 1) a month ago, I was towed, (no mech. problem, lets just leave it at
> that,ok?) and my ABS light came on when I picked the car up. no codes, just
> the light. In the course of normal operation, I've done the 50 start cycles,
> but the light is still on. Do I need to use some ranger rick secret de-coder
> ring? or do I have to do the chickens sacrifice again?

Any number of things but I'm betting the gorrilla that towed your rig
wrapped a chain around one of the front ABS sensor wires and either
ripped it out or popped the connector. Check the front and back for
dangling wires.

Pulling the codes requries a OBD-II scantool. Your lucky in the fact
the 96 was the first year that used OBD-II.

> 2) a "starting" problem.
> when I first crank, it will not start. I have to crank for 5-10 seconds,
> then recrank, and it will start right up, no worries.
> This happens when hot, cold, over night, after a 10 minute, or 2 hour drive.
> It is independant of weather, temp, or operational conditions.

Fuel pressure problem. One of two things will cause this.
1) fuel pressure regulator has failed
2) check valve in pump has failed
Checking either requires a special tool/hoses for stopping the fuel flow.
Never pinch the stock lines, it's bad for them.

In the mean time just turn the key on, wait till the pump stops buzzing,
then turn the key off, then on, buzzzz, then start.

> as an aside, I get 17-19 mpg city, 22-24 hwy on regular. I change oil every
> 3-4k, carries 20lbs of pressure, all in all, a great vehicle.

That's normal, but you could go to 5k on the oil without any worries. 3 is
a bit often unless your only driving short city trips.

20lbs sounds low. Read what the door says, most say 32psi and running
tires low eats fuel.

--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.cox.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!

resposes to various solutions.

the "go-rilla" used forks that span the rear wheels, no chains, all ABS
sensors are still attached.

a panic stop on a wet parking lot shows the ABS is engaging and working. (no
pull, pedal does pulse, wheels don't lock)

our local oreillys does a free scan of codes, there are none listed.

I've tried the leaving the key in the on position thing, i hear no pump
noise, and it doesn't start. only after the actual cranking will it start.
this happens regardless if warm, cold, sitting a minute, or an hour. or
overnight.

oh, thats 20 lbs of oil pressure, not tire pressure.

the windows are tinted too.




"DougW" > wrote in message
news:J2yee.4505$Ri4.3353@okepread07...
> nunya did pass the time by typing:
>> in line 6 2wd. 205k miles.automatic, its green.
> ^^^ I found your problem.
>
>> 1) a month ago, I was towed, (no mech. problem, lets just leave it at
>> that,ok?) and my ABS light came on when I picked the car up. no codes,
>> just
>> the light. In the course of normal operation, I've done the 50 start
>> cycles,
>> but the light is still on. Do I need to use some ranger rick secret
>> de-coder
>> ring? or do I have to do the chickens sacrifice again?
>
> Any number of things but I'm betting the gorrilla that towed your rig
> wrapped a chain around one of the front ABS sensor wires and either
> ripped it out or popped the connector. Check the front and back for
> dangling wires.
>
> Pulling the codes requries a OBD-II scantool. Your lucky in the fact
> the 96 was the first year that used OBD-II.
>
>> 2) a "starting" problem.
>> when I first crank, it will not start. I have to crank for 5-10 seconds,
>> then recrank, and it will start right up, no worries.
>> This happens when hot, cold, over night, after a 10 minute, or 2 hour
>> drive.
>> It is independant of weather, temp, or operational conditions.
>
> Fuel pressure problem. One of two things will cause this.
> 1) fuel pressure regulator has failed
> 2) check valve in pump has failed
> Checking either requires a special tool/hoses for stopping the fuel flow.
> Never pinch the stock lines, it's bad for them.
>
> In the mean time just turn the key on, wait till the pump stops buzzing,
> then turn the key off, then on, buzzzz, then start.
>
>> as an aside, I get 17-19 mpg city, 22-24 hwy on regular. I change oil
>> every
>> 3-4k, carries 20lbs of pressure, all in all, a great vehicle.
>
> That's normal, but you could go to 5k on the oil without any worries. 3
> is
> a bit often unless your only driving short city trips.
>
> 20lbs sounds low. Read what the door says, most say 32psi and running
> tires low eats fuel.
>
> --
> -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.cox.net/wilsond
> HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
>
>
>

Thanks Bill, that link says the same thing that I said.

There are TWO brake lights, one that indicates a failure of the braking
system - the parking brake is partially engaged, there is a fluid level
issue, or similar - and the other indicates the ABS system is inactive. If
the braking system failure light AND the ABS light are on together, then
there is a potentially serious issue that can make the vehicle unsafe to
drive. If the ABS light is on by itself, then the only consideration is that
the brakes can lock up during an emergency manuver.






"L.W. ("ßill") Hughes III" > wrote in message
...
> Yes, I remember you driving your Chevrolet truck around with it on,
> without a care in the world:
> http://www.indiacar.com/index2.asp?p.../techqa/10.htm
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> http://www.billhughes.com/
>
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
>>
>> THE SKY IS NOT FALLING.
>>
>> Yes, it is good to take a closer look, no you will not kill anybody.
>>
>> ABS is a safety feature that one does not have to think that it is there
>> or
>> not, but if it is there one can behave differently than if it is not. The
>> ABS light being on means the feature is inactive, and the rest of the
>> braking system can be relied upon to work properly. ABS prevents wheel
>> lock
>> in an emergency, if the ABS light is on, then the wheels can lock in the
>> emergency, and you should be aware that this will happen.

nunya did pass the time by typing:
> resposes to various solutions.
>
> the "go-rilla" used forks that span the rear wheels, no chains, all ABS
> sensors are still attached.
>
> a panic stop on a wet parking lot shows the ABS is engaging and working. (no
> pull, pedal does pulse, wheels don't lock)
>
> our local oreillys does a free scan of codes, there are none listed.

Hmm.. and the ABS lamp is still lit? That's odd. Try cleaning the ABS
sensor connector, it might not be a critical fault. But it should be
storing something. It doesn't light the light without trowing a fault
of some sort. Usually when my connector gets full of road grime it causes
the lamp to light as the jeep goes over railroad tracks or bumps. That
throws all sorts of faults. Use some plastic safe contact/electronics cleaner
and dilectric grease. Don't forget to clean the backshell on the connector
that's where the grime gets trapped.
http://members.cox.net/wilsond/Fixes...ml#abscomputer

> I've tried the leaving the key in the on position thing, i hear no pump
> noise, and it doesn't start. only after the actual cranking will it start.
> this happens regardless if warm, cold, sitting a minute, or an hour. or
> overnight.

Leaving the key On won't keep the pump running, it only primes for a set
number of seconds. You have to go to the Off position then back to On.

Go get yourself a fuel pressure gauge and watch what happens when you
start and when the engine is turned off. If it goes up, that's normal
if it falls down to 0 you have a leak in the regulator, check valve, or
a sticky injector. You can check the regulator by hooking up the gauge
and running the engine. Pull the vac line off the regulator and the fuel
pressure should jump 3-5psi. If it does then the regulator is probably
good and the problem is most likely your fuel pump. The check valve is
built into the fuel pump.
http://members.cox.net/wilsond/Fixes....html#fuelrail


> oh, thats 20 lbs of oil pressure, not tire pressure.

I tend to think 20 is a bit low, my ZJ runs closer to 50
and will go down to 20 only after the a long highway drive.

> the windows are tinted too.

Mine too.

--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.cox.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!

DougW did pass the time by typing:

> Hmm.. and the ABS lamp is still lit? That's odd. Try cleaning the ABS
> sensor connector,

I ment to say ABS computer connector. But cleaning the sensor connectors
is good maintenance anyway.

> it might not be a critical fault. But it should be
> storing something. It doesn't light the light without trowing a fault
> of some sort. Usually when my connector gets full of road grime it causes
> the lamp to light as the jeep goes over railroad tracks or bumps. That
> throws all sorts of faults. Use some plastic safe contact/electronics cleaner
> and dilectric grease. Don't forget to clean the backshell on the connector
> that's where the grime gets trapped.
> http://members.cox.net/wilsond/Fixes...ml#abscomputer

When you start the car, the ABS light comes on during a self test period,
then should go out. Does it go out or does it stay on.

If it goes out, does it come on when the vehicle begins moving - I am not
sure what the speed threshold is, but my BMW turns the light on at a walking
speed - or does it come on as a result of applying the brakes?

Does it come on at random times that you can not peg to any event at all?

According to the links that Bill provided, it seems that your trouble is the
front wheel speed sensors.

You said that your brakes work properly and the pedal pulses, but this
shouldn't be possible if the ABS light is on because the ABS light being on
specifically means that this will not happen. If the light comes on during
the self test, then remains on, I'd be looking to the instrument cluster,
not any of the sensors. The self test is a time that the system looks at the
circuitry - including the speed sensors - and if the test is successful, the
light turns off. The system then constantly monitors itself, and when a
falut is detected, the ABS light will come on. (My experience is that the
ABS light will remain on until the next time the car is stopped then started
again, I have never seen an ABS light come on then go out before the
ignition is switched off.) If the light remains on after the self test is
complete, and before you begin moving, then I would be looking to the
instrument cluster as having an error. If the brake system was keeping the
light on, there would be a fault code, if the instrument cluster was having
a problem, there would not be a code generated and the light would not go
out after the self test is completed.





"nunya" > wrote in message
...
> resposes to various solutions.
>
> the "go-rilla" used forks that span the rear wheels, no chains, all ABS
> sensors are still attached.
>
> a panic stop on a wet parking lot shows the ABS is engaging and working.
> (no pull, pedal does pulse, wheels don't lock)
>
> our local oreillys does a free scan of codes, there are none listed.
>
> I've tried the leaving the key in the on position thing, i hear no pump
> noise, and it doesn't start. only after the actual cranking will it start.
> this happens regardless if warm, cold, sitting a minute, or an hour. or
> overnight.
>
> oh, thats 20 lbs of oil pressure, not tire pressure.
>
> the windows are tinted too.
>
>

Green and tinted windows? That's the problem ...

"nunya" > wrote in
:

> in line 6 2wd. 205k miles.automatic, its green.
>
> this has been the best purchase of my life (save for the mail-order
> bride) but I've got a couple of
> "dumb guy" questions.
>
> 1) a month ago, I was towed, (no mech. problem, lets just leave it at
> that,ok?) and my ABS light came on when I picked the car up. no codes,
> just the light. In the course of normal operation, I've done the 50
> start cycles, but the light is still on. Do I need to use some ranger
> rick secret de-coder ring? or do I have to do the chickens sacrifice
> again?
>
> 2) a "starting" problem.
> when I first crank, it will not start. I have to crank for 5-10
> seconds, then recrank, and it will start right up, no worries.
> This happens when hot, cold, over night, after a 10 minute, or 2 hour
> drive. It is independant of weather, temp, or operational conditions.
>
> as an aside, I get 17-19 mpg city, 22-24 hwy on regular. I change oil
> every 3-4k, carries 20lbs of pressure, all in all, a great vehicle.
>
> "A car is like a woman. If you give them what they need before they
> know they need it, they won't leave you by the side of the road"
>
> thanks.
>
>

I haven't seen it mentioned in the threads anywhere, but have you tried
disconnecting the battery to reset the indicator?

Mike S
98JGCI6-Clyde

"rufus t" > wrote in message
...
> "nunya" > wrote in
> :
>
> > in line 6 2wd. 205k miles.automatic, its green.
> >
> > this has been the best purchase of my life (save for the mail-order
> > bride) but I've got a couple of
> > "dumb guy" questions.
> >
> > 1) a month ago, I was towed, (no mech. problem, lets just leave it at
> > that,ok?) and my ABS light came on when I picked the car up. no codes,
> > just the light. In the course of normal operation, I've done the 50
> > start cycles, but the light is still on. Do I need to use some ranger
> > rick secret de-coder ring? or do I have to do the chickens sacrifice
> > again?
> >
> > 2) a "starting" problem.
> > when I first crank, it will not start. I have to crank for 5-10
> > seconds, then recrank, and it will start right up, no worries.
> > This happens when hot, cold, over night, after a 10 minute, or 2 hour
> > drive. It is independant of weather, temp, or operational conditions.
> >
> > as an aside, I get 17-19 mpg city, 22-24 hwy on regular. I change oil
> > every 3-4k, carries 20lbs of pressure, all in all, a great vehicle.
> >
> > "A car is like a woman. If you give them what they need before they
> > know they need it, they won't leave you by the side of the road"
> >
> > thanks.
> >
> >
>
> I haven't seen it mentioned in the threads anywhere, but have you tried
> disconnecting the battery to reset the indicator?
>


Any ABS fault is supposed to reset everytime the vehicle is started, then
return if it is still present AND the vehicle is moving. ABS doesn't care
that it doesn't work IF the vehicle is stopped - the trip hasn't yet begun.
ABS only cares that it doesn't work if the trip has been started, then it
doesn't care if the vehicle is moving or stopped, the ABS fault display
remains.

If the ABS fault report is due to an actual fault, there should be a code
stored.

What condition is the ground strap between the head and the firewall
in? That could cause most things.

I would be looking really close where the tow truck hooked on for a
damaged wire to one of the ABS sensors. I am thinking a slight squeeze
short or a punky body ground can cause strange things.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

nunya wrote:
>
> in line 6 2wd. 205k miles.automatic, its green.
>
> this has been the best purchase of my life (save for the mail-order bride)
> but I've got a couple of
> "dumb guy" questions.
>
> 1) a month ago, I was towed, (no mech. problem, lets just leave it at
> that,ok?) and my ABS light came on when I picked the car up. no codes, just
> the light. In the course of normal operation, I've done the 50 start cycles,
> but the light is still on. Do I need to use some ranger rick secret de-coder
> ring? or do I have to do the chickens sacrifice again?
>
> 2) a "starting" problem.
> when I first crank, it will not start. I have to crank for 5-10 seconds,
> then recrank, and it will start right up, no worries.
> This happens when hot, cold, over night, after a 10 minute, or 2 hour drive.
> It is independant of weather, temp, or operational conditions.
>
> as an aside, I get 17-19 mpg city, 22-24 hwy on regular. I change oil every
> 3-4k, carries 20lbs of pressure, all in all, a great vehicle.
>
> "A car is like a woman. If you give them what they need before they know
> they need it, they won't leave you by the side of the road"
>
> thanks.