no start 89 honda civic 1.5

On Dec 3, 10:56 am, "Elle" > wrote:
> "loose duece" > wrote in message
>
> ...
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Dec 3, 5:19 am, Tegger > wrote:
> >> loose duece > wrote in
> >> news:49a751f0-c440-4169-a714-
> >> :
>
> >> > On Dec 2, 9:08 pm, Tegger > wrote:
> >> >> wrote in
> >> >> news:eb0d1d4e-4b40-4120-ac74-aa70fae00d93
> >> >> @o42g2000hsc.googlegroups.com:
>
> >> >> > The car has 230,000 miles on the body and 130,000 on
> >> >> > replaced SOHC1.5
> >> >> > Dual Point Injected . While driving the car began
> >> >> > to miss, it was
> >> >> > parked for a day then it wouldntstart. 5 months
> >> >> > later i replaced the
> >> >> > fuel filter and put in some new plugs and it started
> >> >> > and ran well for
> >> >> > about 30minutes then it bogged down and died again,
> >> >> > any ideas?
> >> >> > maybe just old gas, on high mileage car with an old
> >> >> > fuel tank...
>
> >> >> Got spark?
>
> >> > also, when trying to pull out the primary ingector for
> >> > a visual check
> >> > i broke off the plastic connector, i have that replaced
> >> > with a
> >> > remanufactured one..., when i pulled off the old fuel
> >> > filter i dumped
> >> > it out and dark brown gas came out, im still thinking
> >> > there is some
> >> > crap in the tank from being run on empty to many times,
> >> > so i put the
> >> > backend of the car on jacks and lowered the fuel tank
> >> > and drained the
> >> > old gas which came out very yellow, and took off the
> >> > fuel line that
> >> > goes to the filter from the tank and disconnected the
> >> > connection at
> >> > the filter and used compressed air to blow that line
> >> > out of any
> >> > buildup, there were some small particles that came out
> >> > that like
> >> > dust .
>
> >> With your decription of the gas, I'd say you have a fuel
> >> problem,
> >> all right. Brown and yellow gas doesn't burn particularly
> >> well.
>
> >> If the spark is nice and blue, it's fine.
>
> >> And you should be able to find decent injectors at a
> >> local wreckers for a
> >> lot less than $80.
>
> >> --
> >> Tegger
>
> >> The UnofficialHonda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/-
> >> Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > most wreckers want to keep the injectors with the engines,
> > and arent
> > willing to sell them seperatly, in the greater Dallas area
> > i couldnt
> > get a single yard to let me pull one.
>
> > so, i guess its a fuel pump. i think that it might be
> > worth totally
> > disconnecting the tank,
>
> This will not be "worth it" until after you have
> checked/replace a number of other, much easier to check
> items. I base this on the many reports ofnostarthere and
> their remedy. Rarely has the problem been the fuel pump. You
> need to check the items listed at Tegger's site. E.g.
>
> -- check the main relay. See Tegger's site for quick ways to
> diagnose this.
> -- Are ignition parts (wires, plugs, distributor rotor and
> cap) OEM? Yup they cost more. That's because they last way
> longer. I say this as a cheapskate who learned the hard way.
> Check the wires' resistance. Car sounds like it's due for a
> tuneup, anyway.
> -- Put a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner into
> a near empty tank, filled the tank, and run?
>
> You have an old car with an engine with an unknown history.
> You want tostartwith as clean a slate as possible when
> diagnosing, and one that has to be cleaned anyway for
> optimal operation.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

when i replaced the fuel pump before i checked and all the plugs had
spark, now NO SPARK...the plugs are new the cables have little
resistance none over 14000ohms, the distributor is in good shape and
so is the rotor(they look like new but probly not OEM), i found the
elusive Main relay and it passed the 3 click test, i tested the
ignitor and on the white wire i couldnt get continuity from the white
to ground, my book says to look for an open on the white wire or
check for ground on G101 and G151, but i cant seem to find G101 or
g151 ,and the white leads to the ECU if im not mistaken but no visible
open, the ground on the thermostat is solid and uncorroded, a new
dist cap and rotor might do the trick so i will go to get those
tonight

anyways thanks for all the constructive criticsm, the quest continues,
this forum discussion board is so nice to fall back
on ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,thanks all!

On Dec 3, 6:38 pm, loose duece > wrote:
> On Dec 3, 10:56 am, "Elle" > wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > "loose duece" > wrote in message
>
> ...
>
> > > On Dec 3, 5:19 am, Tegger > wrote:
> > >> loose duece > wrote in
> > >> news:49a751f0-c440-4169-a714-
> > >> :
>
> > >> > On Dec 2, 9:08 pm, Tegger > wrote:
> > >> >> wrote in
> > >> >> news:eb0d1d4e-4b40-4120-ac74-aa70fae00d93
> > >> >> @o42g2000hsc.googlegroups.com:
>
> > >> >> > The car has 230,000 miles on the body and 130,000 on
> > >> >> > replaced SOHC1.5
> > >> >> > Dual Point Injected . While driving the car began
> > >> >> > to miss, it was
> > >> >> > parked for a day then it wouldntstart. 5 months
> > >> >> > later i replaced the
> > >> >> > fuel filter and put in some new plugs and it started
> > >> >> > and ran well for
> > >> >> > about 30minutes then it bogged down and died again,
> > >> >> > any ideas?
> > >> >> > maybe just old gas, on high mileage car with an old
> > >> >> > fuel tank...
>
> > >> >> Got spark?
>
> > >> > also, when trying to pull out the primary ingector for
> > >> > a visual check
> > >> > i broke off the plastic connector, i have that replaced
> > >> > with a
> > >> > remanufactured one..., when i pulled off the old fuel
> > >> > filter i dumped
> > >> > it out and dark brown gas came out, im still thinking
> > >> > there is some
> > >> > crap in the tank from being run on empty to many times,
> > >> > so i put the
> > >> > backend of the car on jacks and lowered the fuel tank
> > >> > and drained the
> > >> > old gas which came out very yellow, and took off the
> > >> > fuel line that
> > >> > goes to the filter from the tank and disconnected the
> > >> > connection at
> > >> > the filter and used compressed air to blow that line
> > >> > out of any
> > >> > buildup, there were some small particles that came out
> > >> > that like
> > >> > dust .
>
> > >> With your decription of the gas, I'd say you have a fuel
> > >> problem,
> > >> all right. Brown and yellow gas doesn't burn particularly
> > >> well.
>
> > >> If the spark is nice and blue, it's fine.
>
> > >> And you should be able to find decent injectors at a
> > >> local wreckers for a
> > >> lot less than $80.
>
> > >> --
> > >> Tegger
>
> > >> The UnofficialHonda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/-
> > >> Hide quoted text -
>
> > >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > > most wreckers want to keep the injectors with the engines,
> > > and arent
> > > willing to sell them seperatly, in the greater Dallas area
> > > i couldnt
> > > get a single yard to let me pull one.
>
> > > so, i guess its a fuel pump. i think that it might be
> > > worth totally
> > > disconnecting the tank,
>
> > This will not be "worth it" until after you have
> > checked/replace a number of other, much easier to check
> > items. I base this on the many reports ofnostarthere and
> > their remedy. Rarely has the problem been the fuel pump. You
> > need to check the items listed at Tegger's site. E.g.
>
> > -- check the main relay. See Tegger's site for quick ways to
> > diagnose this.
> > -- Are ignition parts (wires, plugs, distributor rotor and
> > cap) OEM? Yup they cost more. That's because they last way
> > longer. I say this as a cheapskate who learned the hard way.
> > Check the wires' resistance. Car sounds like it's due for a
> > tuneup, anyway.
> > -- Put a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner into
> > a near empty tank, filled the tank, and run?
>
> > You have an old car with an engine with an unknown history.
> > You want tostartwith as clean a slate as possible when
> > diagnosing, and one that has to be cleaned anyway for
> > optimal operation.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> when i replaced the fuel pump before i checked and all the plugs had
> spark, now NO SPARK...the plugs are new the cables have little
> resistance none over 14000ohms, the distributor is in good shape and
> so is the rotor(they look like new but probly not OEM), i found the
> elusive Main relay and it passed the 3 click test, i tested the
> ignitor and on the white wire i couldnt get continuity from the white
> to ground, my book says to look for an open on the white wire or
> check for ground on G101 and G151, but i cant seem to find G101 or
> g151 ,and the white leads to the ECU if im not mistaken but no visible
> open, the ground on the thermostat is solid and uncorroded, a new
> dist cap and rotor might do the trick so i will go to get those
> tonight
>
> anyways thanks for all the constructive criticsm, the quest continues,
> this forum discussion board is so nice to fall back
> on ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,thanks all!- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

ok so new distcap and rotor, still no spark???

On Dec 3, 8:02 pm, loose duece > wrote:
> On Dec 3, 6:38 pm, loose duece > wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Dec 3, 10:56 am, "Elle" > wrote:
>
> > > "loose duece" > wrote in message
>
> > ...
>
> > > > On Dec 3, 5:19 am, Tegger > wrote:
> > > >> loose duece > wrote in
> > > >> news:49a751f0-c440-4169-a714-
> > > >> :
>
> > > >> > On Dec 2, 9:08 pm, Tegger > wrote:
> > > >> >> wrote in
> > > >> >> news:eb0d1d4e-4b40-4120-ac74-aa70fae00d93
> > > >> >> @o42g2000hsc.googlegroups.com:
>
> > > >> >> > The car has 230,000 miles on the body and 130,000 on
> > > >> >> > replaced SOHC1.5
> > > >> >> > Dual Point Injected . While driving the car began
> > > >> >> > to miss, it was
> > > >> >> > parked for a day then it wouldntstart. 5 months
> > > >> >> > later i replaced the
> > > >> >> > fuel filter and put in some new plugs and it started
> > > >> >> > and ran well for
> > > >> >> > about 30minutes then it bogged down and died again,
> > > >> >> > any ideas?
> > > >> >> > maybe just old gas, on high mileage car with an old
> > > >> >> > fuel tank...
>
> > > >> >> Got spark?
>
> > > >> > also, when trying to pull out the primary ingector for
> > > >> > a visual check
> > > >> > i broke off the plastic connector, i have that replaced
> > > >> > with a
> > > >> > remanufactured one..., when i pulled off the old fuel
> > > >> > filter i dumped
> > > >> > it out and dark brown gas came out, im still thinking
> > > >> > there is some
> > > >> > crap in the tank from being run on empty to many times,
> > > >> > so i put the
> > > >> > backend of the car on jacks and lowered the fuel tank
> > > >> > and drained the
> > > >> > old gas which came out very yellow, and took off the
> > > >> > fuel line that
> > > >> > goes to the filter from the tank and disconnected the
> > > >> > connection at
> > > >> > the filter and used compressed air to blow that line
> > > >> > out of any
> > > >> > buildup, there were some small particles that came out
> > > >> > that like
> > > >> > dust .
>
> > > >> With your decription of the gas, I'd say you have a fuel
> > > >> problem,
> > > >> all right. Brown and yellow gas doesn't burn particularly
> > > >> well.
>
> > > >> If the spark is nice and blue, it's fine.
>
> > > >> And you should be able to find decent injectors at a
> > > >> local wreckers for a
> > > >> lot less than $80.
>
> > > >> --
> > > >> Tegger
>
> > > >> The UnofficialHonda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/-
> > > >> Hide quoted text -
>
> > > >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > > > most wreckers want to keep the injectors with the engines,
> > > > and arent
> > > > willing to sell them seperatly, in the greater Dallas area
> > > > i couldnt
> > > > get a single yard to let me pull one.
>
> > > > so, i guess its a fuel pump. i think that it might be
> > > > worth totally
> > > > disconnecting the tank,
>
> > > This will not be "worth it" until after you have
> > > checked/replace a number of other, much easier to check
> > > items. I base this on the many reports ofnostarthere and
> > > their remedy. Rarely has the problem been the fuel pump. You
> > > need to check the items listed at Tegger's site. E.g.
>
> > > -- check the main relay. See Tegger's site for quick ways to
> > > diagnose this.
> > > -- Are ignition parts (wires, plugs, distributor rotor and
> > > cap) OEM? Yup they cost more. That's because they last way
> > > longer. I say this as a cheapskate who learned the hard way.
> > > Check the wires' resistance. Car sounds like it's due for a
> > > tuneup, anyway.
> > > -- Put a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner into
> > > a near empty tank, filled the tank, and run?
>
> > > You have an old car with an engine with an unknown history.
> > > You want tostartwith as clean a slate as possible when
> > > diagnosing, and one that has to be cleaned anyway for
> > > optimal operation.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > when i replaced the fuel pump before i checked and all the plugs had
> > spark, now NO SPARK...the plugs are new the cables have little
> > resistance none over 14000ohms, the distributor is in good shape and
> > so is the rotor(they look like new but probly not OEM), i found the
> > elusive Main relay and it passed the 3 click test, i tested the
> > ignitor and on the white wire i couldnt get continuity from the white
> > to ground, my book says to look for an open on the white wire or
> > check for ground on G101 and G151, but i cant seem to find G101 or
> > g151 ,and the white leads to the ECU if im not mistaken but no visible
> > open, the ground on the thermostat is solid and uncorroded, a new
> > dist cap and rotor might do the trick so i will go to get those
> > tonight
>
> > anyways thanks for all the constructive criticsm, the quest continues,
> > this forum discussion board is so nice to fall back
> > on ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,thanks all!- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> ok so new distcap and rotor, still no spark???- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

okay just threw on some good working cables and no spark, so its
either the coil or the igniter right?

"loose duece" > wrote
> okay just threw on some good working cables and no spark,
> so its
> either the coil or the igniter right?

Unless some non-OEM part is not working, then I would next
check the coil and igniter. Use Tegger's site
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#startrun for tips on
checking each, plus the several free online manuals for your
89 Civic, like at autozone.com and
http://www.honda.co.uk/car/owner/workshop.html

loose duece wrote:
> On Dec 3, 5:19 am, Tegger > wrote:
>> loose duece > wrote in news:49a751f0-c440-4169-a714-
>> :
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Dec 2, 9:08 pm, Tegger > wrote:
>>>> wrote in news:eb0d1d4e-4b40-4120-ac74-aa70fae00d93
>>>> @o42g2000hsc.googlegroups.com:
>>>>> The car has 230,000 miles on the body and 130,000 on replaced SOHC1.5
>>>>> Dual Point Injected . While driving the car began to miss, it was
>>>>> parked for a day then it wouldntstart. 5 months later i replaced the
>>>>> fuel filter and put in some new plugs and it started and ran well for
>>>>> about 30minutes then it bogged down and died again, any ideas?
>>>>> maybe just old gas, on high mileage car with an old fuel tank...
>>>> Got spark?
>>> also, when trying to pull out the primary ingector for a visual check
>>> i broke off the plastic connector, i have that replaced with a
>>> remanufactured one..., when i pulled off the old fuel filter i dumped
>>> it out and dark brown gas came out, im still thinking there is some
>>> crap in the tank from being run on empty to many times, so i put the
>>> backend of the car on jacks and lowered the fuel tank and drained the
>>> old gas which came out very yellow, and took off the fuel line that
>>> goes to the filter from the tank and disconnected the connection at
>>> the filter and used compressed air to blow that line out of any
>>> buildup, there were some small particles that came out that like
>>> dust .
>> With your decription of the gas, I'd say you have a fuel problem,
>> all right. Brown and yellow gas doesn't burn particularly well.
>>
>> If the spark is nice and blue, it's fine.
>>
>> And you should be able to find decent injectors at a local wreckers for a
>> lot less than $80.
>>
>> --
>> Tegger
>>
>> The UnofficialHonda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> most wreckers want to keep the injectors with the engines, and arent
> willing to sell them seperatly, in the greater Dallas area i couldnt
> get a single yard to let me pull one.
>
> so, i guess its a fuel pump. i think that it might be worth totally
> disconnecting the tank,

see if it will pump through the bleed before you do that. absolutely no
point doing work based on guesses - be sure of your diagnosis first.

loose duece wrote:
> On Dec 3, 8:02 pm, loose duece > wrote:
>> On Dec 3, 6:38 pm, loose duece > wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Dec 3, 10:56 am, "Elle" > wrote:
>>>> "loose duece" > wrote in message
>>>> ...
>>>>> On Dec 3, 5:19 am, Tegger > wrote:
>>>>>> loose duece > wrote in
>>>>>> news:49a751f0-c440-4169-a714-
>>>>>> :
>>>>>>> On Dec 2, 9:08 pm, Tegger > wrote:
>>>>>>>> wrote in
>>>>>>>> news:eb0d1d4e-4b40-4120-ac74-aa70fae00d93
>>>>>>>> @o42g2000hsc.googlegroups.com:
>>>>>>>>> The car has 230,000 miles on the body and 130,000 on
>>>>>>>>> replaced SOHC1.5
>>>>>>>>> Dual Point Injected . While driving the car began
>>>>>>>>> to miss, it was
>>>>>>>>> parked for a day then it wouldntstart. 5 months
>>>>>>>>> later i replaced the
>>>>>>>>> fuel filter and put in some new plugs and it started
>>>>>>>>> and ran well for
>>>>>>>>> about 30minutes then it bogged down and died again,
>>>>>>>>> any ideas?
>>>>>>>>> maybe just old gas, on high mileage car with an old
>>>>>>>>> fuel tank...
>>>>>>>> Got spark?
>>>>>>> also, when trying to pull out the primary ingector for
>>>>>>> a visual check
>>>>>>> i broke off the plastic connector, i have that replaced
>>>>>>> with a
>>>>>>> remanufactured one..., when i pulled off the old fuel
>>>>>>> filter i dumped
>>>>>>> it out and dark brown gas came out, im still thinking
>>>>>>> there is some
>>>>>>> crap in the tank from being run on empty to many times,
>>>>>>> so i put the
>>>>>>> backend of the car on jacks and lowered the fuel tank
>>>>>>> and drained the
>>>>>>> old gas which came out very yellow, and took off the
>>>>>>> fuel line that
>>>>>>> goes to the filter from the tank and disconnected the
>>>>>>> connection at
>>>>>>> the filter and used compressed air to blow that line
>>>>>>> out of any
>>>>>>> buildup, there were some small particles that came out
>>>>>>> that like
>>>>>>> dust .
>>>>>> With your decription of the gas, I'd say you have a fuel
>>>>>> problem,
>>>>>> all right. Brown and yellow gas doesn't burn particularly
>>>>>> well.
>>>>>> If the spark is nice and blue, it's fine.
>>>>>> And you should be able to find decent injectors at a
>>>>>> local wreckers for a
>>>>>> lot less than $80.
>>>>>> --
>>>>>> Tegger
>>>>>> The UnofficialHonda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/-
>>>>>> Hide quoted text -
>>>>>> - Show quoted text -
>>>>> most wreckers want to keep the injectors with the engines,
>>>>> and arent
>>>>> willing to sell them seperatly, in the greater Dallas area
>>>>> i couldnt
>>>>> get a single yard to let me pull one.
>>>>> so, i guess its a fuel pump. i think that it might be
>>>>> worth totally
>>>>> disconnecting the tank,
>>>> This will not be "worth it" until after you have
>>>> checked/replace a number of other, much easier to check
>>>> items. I base this on the many reports ofnostarthere and
>>>> their remedy. Rarely has the problem been the fuel pump. You
>>>> need to check the items listed at Tegger's site. E.g.
>>>> -- check the main relay. See Tegger's site for quick ways to
>>>> diagnose this.
>>>> -- Are ignition parts (wires, plugs, distributor rotor and
>>>> cap) OEM? Yup they cost more. That's because they last way
>>>> longer. I say this as a cheapskate who learned the hard way.
>>>> Check the wires' resistance. Car sounds like it's due for a
>>>> tuneup, anyway.
>>>> -- Put a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner into
>>>> a near empty tank, filled the tank, and run?
>>>> You have an old car with an engine with an unknown history.
>>>> You want tostartwith as clean a slate as possible when
>>>> diagnosing, and one that has to be cleaned anyway for
>>>> optimal operation.- Hide quoted text -
>>>> - Show quoted text -
>>> when i replaced the fuel pump before i checked and all the plugs had
>>> spark, now NO SPARK...the plugs are new the cables have little
>>> resistance none over 14000ohms, the distributor is in good shape and
>>> so is the rotor(they look like new but probly not OEM), i found the
>>> elusive Main relay and it passed the 3 click test, i tested the
>>> ignitor and on the white wire i couldnt get continuity from the white
>>> to ground, my book says to look for an open on the white wire or
>>> check for ground on G101 and G151, but i cant seem to find G101 or
>>> g151 ,and the white leads to the ECU if im not mistaken but no visible
>>> open, the ground on the thermostat is solid and uncorroded, a new
>>> dist cap and rotor might do the trick so i will go to get those
>>> tonight
>>> anyways thanks for all the constructive criticsm, the quest continues,
>>> this forum discussion board is so nice to fall back
>>> on ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,thanks all!- Hide quoted text -
>>> - Show quoted text -
>> ok so new distcap and rotor, still no spark???- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> okay just threw on some good working cables and no spark, so its
> either the coil or the igniter right?

check out the igniter pages at tegger.com.

On Dec 3, 10:10 pm, jim beam > wrote:
> loose duece wrote:
> > On Dec 3, 8:02 pm, loose duece > wrote:
> >> On Dec 3, 6:38 pm, loose duece > wrote:
>
> >>> On Dec 3, 10:56 am, "Elle" > wrote:
> >>>> "loose duece" > wrote in message
> ...
> >>>>> On Dec 3, 5:19 am, Tegger > wrote:
> >>>>>> loose duece > wrote in
> >>>>>> news:49a751f0-c440-4169-a714-
> >>>>>> :
> >>>>>>> On Dec 2, 9:08 pm, Tegger > wrote:
> >>>>>>>> wrote in
> >>>>>>>> news:eb0d1d4e-4b40-4120-ac74-aa70fae00d93
> >>>>>>>> @o42g2000hsc.googlegroups.com:
> >>>>>>>>> The car has 230,000 miles on the body and 130,000 on
> >>>>>>>>> replaced SOHC1.5
> >>>>>>>>> Dual Point Injected . While driving the car began
> >>>>>>>>> to miss, it was
> >>>>>>>>> parked for a day then it wouldntstart. 5 months
> >>>>>>>>> later i replaced the
> >>>>>>>>> fuel filter and put in some new plugs and it started
> >>>>>>>>> and ran well for
> >>>>>>>>> about 30minutes then it bogged down and died again,
> >>>>>>>>> any ideas?
> >>>>>>>>> maybe just old gas, on high mileage car with an old
> >>>>>>>>> fuel tank...
> >>>>>>>> Got spark?
> >>>>>>> also, when trying to pull out the primary ingector for
> >>>>>>> a visual check
> >>>>>>> i broke off the plastic connector, i have that replaced
> >>>>>>> with a
> >>>>>>> remanufactured one..., when i pulled off the old fuel
> >>>>>>> filter i dumped
> >>>>>>> it out and dark brown gas came out, im still thinking
> >>>>>>> there is some
> >>>>>>> crap in the tank from being run on empty to many times,
> >>>>>>> so i put the
> >>>>>>> backend of the car on jacks and lowered the fuel tank
> >>>>>>> and drained the
> >>>>>>> old gas which came out very yellow, and took off the
> >>>>>>> fuel line that
> >>>>>>> goes to the filter from the tank and disconnected the
> >>>>>>> connection at
> >>>>>>> the filter and used compressed air to blow that line
> >>>>>>> out of any
> >>>>>>> buildup, there were some small particles that came out
> >>>>>>> that like
> >>>>>>> dust .
> >>>>>> With your decription of the gas, I'd say you have a fuel
> >>>>>> problem,
> >>>>>> all right. Brown and yellow gas doesn't burn particularly
> >>>>>> well.
> >>>>>> If the spark is nice and blue, it's fine.
> >>>>>> And you should be able to find decent injectors at a
> >>>>>> local wreckers for a
> >>>>>> lot less than $80.
> >>>>>> --
> >>>>>> Tegger
> >>>>>> The UnofficialHonda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/-
> >>>>>> Hide quoted text -
> >>>>>> - Show quoted text -
> >>>>> most wreckers want to keep the injectors with the engines,
> >>>>> and arent
> >>>>> willing to sell them seperatly, in the greater Dallas area
> >>>>> i couldnt
> >>>>> get a single yard to let me pull one.
> >>>>> so, i guess its a fuel pump. i think that it might be
> >>>>> worth totally
> >>>>> disconnecting the tank,
> >>>> This will not be "worth it" until after you have
> >>>> checked/replace a number of other, much easier to check
> >>>> items. I base this on the many reports ofnostarthere and
> >>>> their remedy. Rarely has the problem been the fuel pump. You
> >>>> need to check the items listed at Tegger's site. E.g.
> >>>> -- check the main relay. See Tegger's site for quick ways to
> >>>> diagnose this.
> >>>> -- Are ignition parts (wires, plugs, distributor rotor and
> >>>> cap) OEM? Yup they cost more. That's because they last way
> >>>> longer. I say this as a cheapskate who learned the hard way.
> >>>> Check the wires' resistance. Car sounds like it's due for a
> >>>> tuneup, anyway.
> >>>> -- Put a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner into
> >>>> a near empty tank, filled the tank, and run?
> >>>> You have an old car with an engine with an unknown history.
> >>>> You want tostartwith as clean a slate as possible when
> >>>> diagnosing, and one that has to be cleaned anyway for
> >>>> optimal operation.- Hide quoted text -
> >>>> - Show quoted text -
> >>> when i replaced the fuel pump before i checked and all the plugs had
> >>> spark, nowNOSPARK...the plugs are new the cables have little
> >>> resistance none over 14000ohms, the distributor is in good shape and
> >>> so is the rotor(they look like new but probly not OEM), i found the
> >>> elusive Main relay and it passed the 3 click test, i tested the
> >>> ignitor and on the white wire i couldnt get continuity from the white
> >>> to ground, my book says to look for an open on the white wire or
> >>> check for ground on G101 and G151, but i cant seem to find G101 or
> >>> g151 ,and the white leads to the ECU if im not mistaken butnovisible
> >>> open, the ground on the thermostat is solid and uncorroded, a new
> >>> dist cap and rotor might do the trick so i will go to get those
> >>> tonight
> >>> anyways thanks for all the constructive criticsm, the quest continues,
> >>> this forum discussion board is so nice to fall back
> >>> on ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,thanks all!- Hide quoted text -
> >>> - Show quoted text -
> >> ok so new distcap and rotor, stillnospark???- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > okay just threw on some good working cables andnospark, so its
> > either the coil or the igniter right?
>
> check out the igniter pages at tegger.com.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted te

i have an 90 honda civic Shop Service Mnual and im going through the
test...

loose duece wrote:
> On Dec 3, 10:10 pm, jim beam > wrote:
>> loose duece wrote:
>>> On Dec 3, 8:02 pm, loose duece > wrote:
>>>> On Dec 3, 6:38 pm, loose duece > wrote:
>>>>> On Dec 3, 10:56 am, "Elle" > wrote:
>>>>>> "loose duece" > wrote in message
>>>>>> ...
>>>>>>> On Dec 3, 5:19 am, Tegger > wrote:
>>>>>>>> loose duece > wrote in
>>>>>>>> news:49a751f0-c440-4169-a714-
>>>>>>>> :
>>>>>>>>> On Dec 2, 9:08 pm, Tegger > wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> wrote in
>>>>>>>>>> news:eb0d1d4e-4b40-4120-ac74-aa70fae00d93
>>>>>>>>>> @o42g2000hsc.googlegroups.com:
>>>>>>>>>>> The car has 230,000 miles on the body and 130,000 on
>>>>>>>>>>> replaced SOHC1.5
>>>>>>>>>>> Dual Point Injected . While driving the car began
>>>>>>>>>>> to miss, it was
>>>>>>>>>>> parked for a day then it wouldntstart. 5 months
>>>>>>>>>>> later i replaced the
>>>>>>>>>>> fuel filter and put in some new plugs and it started
>>>>>>>>>>> and ran well for
>>>>>>>>>>> about 30minutes then it bogged down and died again,
>>>>>>>>>>> any ideas?
>>>>>>>>>>> maybe just old gas, on high mileage car with an old
>>>>>>>>>>> fuel tank...
>>>>>>>>>> Got spark?
>>>>>>>>> also, when trying to pull out the primary ingector for
>>>>>>>>> a visual check
>>>>>>>>> i broke off the plastic connector, i have that replaced
>>>>>>>>> with a
>>>>>>>>> remanufactured one..., when i pulled off the old fuel
>>>>>>>>> filter i dumped
>>>>>>>>> it out and dark brown gas came out, im still thinking
>>>>>>>>> there is some
>>>>>>>>> crap in the tank from being run on empty to many times,
>>>>>>>>> so i put the
>>>>>>>>> backend of the car on jacks and lowered the fuel tank
>>>>>>>>> and drained the
>>>>>>>>> old gas which came out very yellow, and took off the
>>>>>>>>> fuel line that
>>>>>>>>> goes to the filter from the tank and disconnected the
>>>>>>>>> connection at
>>>>>>>>> the filter and used compressed air to blow that line
>>>>>>>>> out of any
>>>>>>>>> buildup, there were some small particles that came out
>>>>>>>>> that like
>>>>>>>>> dust .
>>>>>>>> With your decription of the gas, I'd say you have a fuel
>>>>>>>> problem,
>>>>>>>> all right. Brown and yellow gas doesn't burn particularly
>>>>>>>> well.
>>>>>>>> If the spark is nice and blue, it's fine.
>>>>>>>> And you should be able to find decent injectors at a
>>>>>>>> local wreckers for a
>>>>>>>> lot less than $80.
>>>>>>>> --
>>>>>>>> Tegger
>>>>>>>> The UnofficialHonda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/-
>>>>>>>> Hide quoted text -
>>>>>>>> - Show quoted text -
>>>>>>> most wreckers want to keep the injectors with the engines,
>>>>>>> and arent
>>>>>>> willing to sell them seperatly, in the greater Dallas area
>>>>>>> i couldnt
>>>>>>> get a single yard to let me pull one.
>>>>>>> so, i guess its a fuel pump. i think that it might be
>>>>>>> worth totally
>>>>>>> disconnecting the tank,
>>>>>> This will not be "worth it" until after you have
>>>>>> checked/replace a number of other, much easier to check
>>>>>> items. I base this on the many reports ofnostarthere and
>>>>>> their remedy. Rarely has the problem been the fuel pump. You
>>>>>> need to check the items listed at Tegger's site. E.g.
>>>>>> -- check the main relay. See Tegger's site for quick ways to
>>>>>> diagnose this.
>>>>>> -- Are ignition parts (wires, plugs, distributor rotor and
>>>>>> cap) OEM? Yup they cost more. That's because they last way
>>>>>> longer. I say this as a cheapskate who learned the hard way.
>>>>>> Check the wires' resistance. Car sounds like it's due for a
>>>>>> tuneup, anyway.
>>>>>> -- Put a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner into
>>>>>> a near empty tank, filled the tank, and run?
>>>>>> You have an old car with an engine with an unknown history.
>>>>>> You want tostartwith as clean a slate as possible when
>>>>>> diagnosing, and one that has to be cleaned anyway for
>>>>>> optimal operation.- Hide quoted text -
>>>>>> - Show quoted text -
>>>>> when i replaced the fuel pump before i checked and all the plugs had
>>>>> spark, nowNOSPARK...the plugs are new the cables have little
>>>>> resistance none over 14000ohms, the distributor is in good shape and
>>>>> so is the rotor(they look like new but probly not OEM), i found the
>>>>> elusive Main relay and it passed the 3 click test, i tested the
>>>>> ignitor and on the white wire i couldnt get continuity from the white
>>>>> to ground, my book says to look for an open on the white wire or
>>>>> check for ground on G101 and G151, but i cant seem to find G101 or
>>>>> g151 ,and the white leads to the ECU if im not mistaken butnovisible
>>>>> open, the ground on the thermostat is solid and uncorroded, a new
>>>>> dist cap and rotor might do the trick so i will go to get those
>>>>> tonight
>>>>> anyways thanks for all the constructive criticsm, the quest continues,
>>>>> this forum discussion board is so nice to fall back
>>>>> on ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,thanks all!- Hide quoted text -
>>>>> - Show quoted text -
>>>> ok so new distcap and rotor, stillnospark???- Hide quoted text -
>>>> - Show quoted text -
>>> okay just threw on some good working cables andnospark, so its
>>> either the coil or the igniter right?
>> check out the igniter pages at tegger.com.- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted te
>
> i have an 90 honda civic Shop Service Mnual and im going through the
> test...

here are some relevant topics on which the manual is insufficient.

1. main relay - you still need to pull it and check it.
2. igniter testing.
3. coil testing.

that's why those of us with experience in this stuff refer you to the
collective knowledge contained in tegger.com. or you can keep wasting
your [our] ****ing time. your call.

On Dec 3, 11:31 pm, jim beam > wrote:
> loose duece wrote:
> > On Dec 3, 10:10 pm, jim beam > wrote:
> >> loose duece wrote:
> >>> On Dec 3, 8:02 pm, loose duece > wrote:
> >>>> On Dec 3, 6:38 pm, loose duece > wrote:
> >>>>> On Dec 3, 10:56 am, "Elle" > wrote:
> >>>>>> "loose duece" > wrote in message
> ...
> >>>>>>> On Dec 3, 5:19 am, Tegger > wrote:
> >>>>>>>> loose duece > wrote in
> >>>>>>>> news:49a751f0-c440-4169-a714-
> >>>>>>>> :
> >>>>>>>>> On Dec 2, 9:08 pm, Tegger > wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>> wrote in
> >>>>>>>>>> news:eb0d1d4e-4b40-4120-ac74-aa70fae00d93
> >>>>>>>>>> @o42g2000hsc.googlegroups.com:
> >>>>>>>>>>> The car has 230,000 miles on the body and 130,000 on
> >>>>>>>>>>> replaced SOHC1.5
> >>>>>>>>>>> Dual Point Injected . While driving the car began
> >>>>>>>>>>> to miss, it was
> >>>>>>>>>>> parked for a day then it wouldntstart. 5 months
> >>>>>>>>>>> later i replaced the
> >>>>>>>>>>> fuel filter and put in some new plugs and it started
> >>>>>>>>>>> and ran well for
> >>>>>>>>>>> about 30minutes then it bogged down and died again,
> >>>>>>>>>>> any ideas?
> >>>>>>>>>>> maybe just old gas, on high mileage car with an old
> >>>>>>>>>>> fuel tank...
> >>>>>>>>>> Got spark?
> >>>>>>>>> also, when trying to pull out the primary ingector for
> >>>>>>>>> a visual check
> >>>>>>>>> i broke off the plastic connector, i have that replaced
> >>>>>>>>> with a
> >>>>>>>>> remanufactured one..., when i pulled off the old fuel
> >>>>>>>>> filter i dumped
> >>>>>>>>> it out and dark brown gas came out, im still thinking
> >>>>>>>>> there is some
> >>>>>>>>> crap in the tank from being run on empty to many times,
> >>>>>>>>> so i put the
> >>>>>>>>> backend of the car on jacks and lowered the fuel tank
> >>>>>>>>> and drained the
> >>>>>>>>> old gas which came out very yellow, and took off the
> >>>>>>>>> fuel line that
> >>>>>>>>> goes to the filter from the tank and disconnected the
> >>>>>>>>> connection at
> >>>>>>>>> the filter and used compressed air to blow that line
> >>>>>>>>> out of any
> >>>>>>>>> buildup, there were some small particles that came out
> >>>>>>>>> that like
> >>>>>>>>> dust .
> >>>>>>>> With your decription of the gas, I'd say you have a fuel
> >>>>>>>> problem,
> >>>>>>>> all right. Brown and yellow gas doesn't burn particularly
> >>>>>>>> well.
> >>>>>>>> If the spark is nice and blue, it's fine.
> >>>>>>>> And you should be able to find decent injectors at a
> >>>>>>>> local wreckers for a
> >>>>>>>> lot less than $80.
> >>>>>>>> --
> >>>>>>>> Tegger
> >>>>>>>> The UnofficialHonda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/-
> >>>>>>>> Hide quoted text -
> >>>>>>>> - Show quoted text -
> >>>>>>> most wreckers want to keep the injectors with the engines,
> >>>>>>> and arent
> >>>>>>> willing to sell them seperatly, in the greater Dallas area
> >>>>>>> i couldnt
> >>>>>>> get a single yard to let me pull one.
> >>>>>>> so, i guess its a fuel pump. i think that it might be
> >>>>>>> worth totally
> >>>>>>> disconnecting the tank,
> >>>>>> This will not be "worth it" until after you have
> >>>>>> checked/replace a number of other, much easier to check
> >>>>>> items. I base this on the many reports ofnostarthere and
> >>>>>> their remedy. Rarely has the problem been the fuel pump. You
> >>>>>> need to check the items listed at Tegger's site. E.g.
> >>>>>> -- check the main relay. See Tegger's site for quick ways to
> >>>>>> diagnose this.
> >>>>>> -- Are ignition parts (wires, plugs, distributor rotor and
> >>>>>> cap) OEM? Yup they cost more. That's because they last way
> >>>>>> longer. I say this as a cheapskate who learned the hard way.
> >>>>>> Check the wires' resistance. Car sounds like it's due for a
> >>>>>> tuneup, anyway.
> >>>>>> -- Put a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner into
> >>>>>> a near empty tank, filled the tank, and run?
> >>>>>> You have an old car with an engine with an unknown history.
> >>>>>> You want tostartwith as clean a slate as possible when
> >>>>>> diagnosing, and one that has to be cleaned anyway for
> >>>>>> optimal operation.- Hide quoted text -
> >>>>>> - Show quoted text -
> >>>>> when i replaced the fuel pump before i checked and all the plugs had
> >>>>> spark, nowNOSPARK...the plugs are new the cables have little
> >>>>> resistance none over 14000ohms, the distributor is in good shape and
> >>>>> so is the rotor(they look like new but probly not OEM), i found the
> >>>>> elusive Main relay and it passed the 3 click test, i tested the
> >>>>> ignitor and on the white wire i couldnt get continuity from the white
> >>>>> to ground, my book says to look for an open on the white wire or
> >>>>> check for ground on G101 and G151, but i cant seem to find G101 or
> >>>>> g151 ,and the white leads to the ECU if im not mistaken butnovisible
> >>>>> open, the ground on the thermostat is solid and uncorroded, a new
> >>>>> dist cap and rotor might do the trick so i will go to get those
> >>>>> tonight
> >>>>> anyways thanks for all the constructive criticsm, the quest continues,
> >>>>> this forum discussion board is so nice to fall back
> >>>>> on ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,thanks all!- Hide quoted text -
> >>>>> - Show quoted text -
> >>>> ok so new distcap and rotor, stillnospark???- Hide quoted text -
> >>>> - Show quoted text -
> >>> okay just threw on some good working cables andnospark, so its
> >>> either the coil or the igniter right?
> >> check out the igniter pages at tegger.com.- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted te
>
> > i have an 90hondacivicShop Service Mnual and im going through the
> > test...
>
> here are some relevant topics on which the manual is insufficient.
>
> 1. main relay - you still need to pull it and check it.
> 2. igniter testing.
> 3. coil testing.
>
> that's why those of us with experience in this stuff refer you to the
> collective knowledge contained in tegger.com. or you can keep wasting
> your [our] ****ing time. your call.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

yes i have been reading the ****ing tegger page , im working on it,
sorry to waste your ****ing time!

"loose duece" > wrote
> yes i have been reading the ****ing tegger page , im
> working on it,
> sorry to waste your ****ing time!

Just sharing opinions. The shop manual is helpful for coil
and igniter diagnostics. So is Tegger's site. Use both,
afaic. Your 90 Civic manual may not nail exactly your 89
Civic. Maybe skim the 89 Civic CRX manual at the UK site,
for one.

Elle
Original owner, 91 Civic, with its igniter, coil, and
distributor housing all replaced at least once by yours
truly, with help from this group and the manual (Tegger's
site did not have info on this then).