If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
1987 CRX questions
Hi,
I recently acquired a 1987 HF, which runs great and gives me around 40mpg. I have a few questions about this car: 1) When the engine is cold, the car has to make effort to startup. I have to press on the gas as i turn the ignition. Once its on, I have to constantly give it gas so it doesn't die out. Could this be the carburettor, and is it fixable? 2) If I accelerate to around 4000 rpms on 1st gear and quickly change to 2nd, I feel grinding: actually its more like a jolt. Similar things happen while going from 2nd to 3rd. Below 4000 or so, the transition is smooth. Is this a common problem or something is wrong with my tranny? 3) Sometimes, when the car is on and I want to back up from complete stop, I feel the reverse gear grinding as I switch to reverse. This happens once in a while, even when I take every care to ensure that the clutch is pressed all the way down. Then, if I come to neutral and go reverse again there usually is no grinding. 4) If I am travelling at high speed (60mph on gear 4) and try to shift to 2nd, I feel grinding. Are these problems common, and how can I investigate further? I want to know what this car wants. - Craig |
Ads |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
On 23 May 2005 14:10:46 -0700, "Shark" > wrote:
>I recently acquired a 1987 HF, which runs great and gives me around >40mpg. I have a few questions about this car: > >1) When the engine is cold, the car has to make effort to startup. I >have to press on the gas as i turn the ignition. Once its on, I have to >constantly give it gas so it doesn't die out. Could this be the >carburettor, and is it fixable? Only the Si models had fuel injection, which was the solution to good cold-start performance. The carburetted models were trying to solve the problems of meeting the more stringent anti-pollution laws with lean mixtures and diabolically complex carburation. I had a 1977 CVCC which gave really excellent milage when warmed up, but from a cold start it was a miserable bitch until it got up to temperature. My 87 CRX was an Si so I never had that problem. >2) If I accelerate to around 4000 rpms on 1st gear and quickly change >to 2nd, I feel grinding: actually its more like a jolt. Similar things >happen while going from 2nd to 3rd. Below 4000 or so, the transition is >smooth. Is this a common problem or something is wrong with my tranny? Your sychros may be showing the effects of age and an overly enthusiastic former owner. >3) Sometimes, when the car is on and I want to back up from complete >stop, I feel the reverse gear grinding as I switch to reverse. This >happens once in a while, even when I take every care to ensure that the >clutch is pressed all the way down. Then, if I come to neutral and go >reverse again there usually is no grinding. Your clutch may need adjustment. How much travel is there in the pedal before you feel resistance? >4) If I am travelling at high speed (60mph on gear 4) and try to shift >to 2nd, I feel grinding. That's too fast to go for second. Go for third, then 2nd, or learn to double-clutch. >Are these problems common, and how can I investigate further? I want to >know what this car wants. Love and tender care. Even better an Si engine and ECU. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
"Shark" > wrote in
oups.com: > Hi, > > I recently acquired a 1987 HF, which runs great and gives me around > 40mpg. I have a few questions about this car: I have a question for you: How many miles? > > 1) When the engine is cold, the car has to make effort to startup. I > have to press on the gas as i turn the ignition. Once its on, I have to > constantly give it gas so it doesn't die out. Could this be the > carburettor, and is it fixable? Other than what John Ings has already said, are you flooring the gas and releasing it before starting from cold? Your carburetor needs this to be done so the choke can be closed. > > 2) If I accelerate to around 4000 rpms on 1st gear and quickly change > to 2nd, I feel grinding: actually its more like a jolt. Similar things > happen while going from 2nd to 3rd. Below 4000 or so, the transition is > smooth. Is this a common problem or something is wrong with my tranny? As JI says, probably worn synchros. Try shifting at 3K, and moving the lever a bit slower, pausing briefly in neutral before moving it into 2nd. Does it grind now? Your car is old. Like an old man, it needs some time and care to operate correctly. You cannot zing it like a new car unless it's been completely rebuilt. A tip: Use your fingertips only on the lever. If the lever won't go into 2nd without light finger effort, the synchros are not as effective as they could be, and need more time to operate. Forcing it will wreck them *much* faster. > > 3) Sometimes, when the car is on and I want to back up from complete > stop, I feel the reverse gear grinding as I switch to reverse. This > happens once in a while, even when I take every care to ensure that the > clutch is pressed all the way down. Then, if I come to neutral and go > reverse again there usually is no grinding. > > 4) If I am travelling at high speed (60mph on gear 4) and try to shift > to 2nd, I feel grinding. Ay-yi-yi. Don't do that! Get somebody to explain the operation of a manual transmission car to you before you wreck stuff! -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
John Ings wrote: > On 23 May 2005 14:10:46 -0700, "Shark" > wrote: > > >I recently acquired a 1987 HF, which runs great and gives me around > >40mpg. I have a few questions about this car: > > > >1) When the engine is cold, the car has to make effort to startup. I > >have to press on the gas as i turn the ignition. Once its on, I have to > >constantly give it gas so it doesn't die out. Could this be the > >carburettor, and is it fixable? > > Only the Si models had fuel injection, which was the solution to good > cold-start performance. The carburetted models were trying to solve > the problems of meeting the more stringent anti-pollution laws with > lean mixtures and diabolically complex carburation. I had a 1977 CVCC > which gave really excellent milage when warmed up, but from a cold > start it was a miserable bitch until it got up to temperature. My 87 > CRX was an Si so I never had that problem. > > >2) If I accelerate to around 4000 rpms on 1st gear and quickly change > >to 2nd, I feel grinding: actually its more like a jolt. Similar things > >happen while going from 2nd to 3rd. Below 4000 or so, the transition is > >smooth. Is this a common problem or something is wrong with my tranny? > > Your sychros may be showing the effects of age and an overly > enthusiastic former owner. > > >3) Sometimes, when the car is on and I want to back up from complete > >stop, I feel the reverse gear grinding as I switch to reverse. This > >happens once in a while, even when I take every care to ensure that the > >clutch is pressed all the way down. Then, if I come to neutral and go > >reverse again there usually is no grinding. > > Your clutch may need adjustment. How much travel is there in the pedal > before you feel resistance? Almost 3 quarters way down. However whenever I change gears I always push all the way to the floor. > > >4) If I am travelling at high speed (60mph on gear 4) and try to shift > >to 2nd, I feel grinding. > > That's too fast to go for second. Go for third, then 2nd, or learn to > double-clutch. The reason I was trying is because I used to do such things on my saturn too! I used to redline it on the second gear once every few weeks. It was able to come from 4th gear to 2nd almost effortlessly. The CRX is probably too old to accomodate that! > > >Are these problems common, and how can I investigate further? I want to > >know what this car wants. > > Love and tender care. Even better an Si engine and ECU. Whats ECU? |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
TeGGeR=AE wrote: > "Shark" > wrote in > oups.com: > > > Hi, > > > > I recently acquired a 1987 HF, which runs great and gives me around > > 40mpg. I have a few questions about this car: > > > I have a question for you: How many miles? 175k ! > > > > > > 1) When the engine is cold, the car has to make effort to startup. I > > have to press on the gas as i turn the ignition. Once its on, I have to > > constantly give it gas so it doesn't die out. Could this be the > > carburettor, and is it fixable? > > > Other than what John Ings has already said, are you flooring the gas and > releasing it before starting from cold? Your carburetor needs this to be > done so the choke can be closed. Do you mean I need to floor the gas before I turn the key? I never tried that. I usually press the gas a little bit while I'm starting, and blip it a little bit now and then while its warming up or if it falls below 1.5k rpms. > > > > > > 2) If I accelerate to around 4000 rpms on 1st gear and quickly change > > to 2nd, I feel grinding: actually its more like a jolt. Similar things > > happen while going from 2nd to 3rd. Below 4000 or so, the transition is > > smooth. Is this a common problem or something is wrong with my tranny? > > > As JI says, probably worn synchros. Try shifting at 3K, and moving the > lever a bit slower, pausing briefly in neutral before moving it into 2nd. > Does it grind now? no, not this time. > > Your car is old. Like an old man, it needs some time and care to operate > correctly. You cannot zing it like a new car unless it's been completely > rebuilt. > > A tip: Use your fingertips only on the lever. If the lever won't go into > 2nd without light finger effort, the synchros are not as effective as they > could be, and need more time to operate. Forcing it will wreck them *much* > faster. > > > > > > 3) Sometimes, when the car is on and I want to back up from complete > > stop, I feel the reverse gear grinding as I switch to reverse. This > > happens once in a while, even when I take every care to ensure that the > > clutch is pressed all the way down. Then, if I come to neutral and go > > reverse again there usually is no grinding. > > > > 4) If I am travelling at high speed (60mph on gear 4) and try to shift > > to 2nd, I feel grinding. > > > Ay-yi-yi. Don't do that! Get somebody to explain the operation of a manual > transmission car to you before you wreck stuff! > > -- > TeGGeR=AE >=20 > The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ > www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
One more question that I forgot to ask: when I open the fuel tank cap
of this car, I feel pressure released.Always happens if I open it when there some fuel in the car. When almost empty, there is hardly any pressure. Should this be expected? |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
"Shark" > wrote in
ups.com: .. > > Do you mean I need to floor the gas before I turn the key? I never > tried that. I usually press the gas a little bit while I'm starting, > and blip it a little bit now and then while its warming up or if it > falls below 1.5k rpms. With carburetors, you need to "choke" off the air supply when you start from cold. The engine needs an especially rich mixture, because some of the fuel will condense on the manifold walls on its way to the intake valve. The action of flooring the pedal will do three things: 1) close the "choke" 2) set the throttle plate open just a crack 3) squirt a shot of fuel into the carb through the accelerator pump This shot of fuel provides a "prime" charge that helps the car start from cold. You can pull the air cleaner cover off and see all this happening. Watch while a helper floors the pedal. If the temperature is very cold, you can pump the pedal twice or more, putting more squirts of fuel into the manifold and aiding starting even more. You do run the risk of flooding the engine, though, so you need to experiment with the number of pedal pushes in very cold weather. When you get to a number that causes hard starting and stumbling when it does start, that's too many. Back off one or two. My old Corollas needed five pumps in sub=10F weather. A common problem with automatic chokes is that they stick open and won't close when they should. When this happens, the car will be difficult to start because of a very lean mixture. Conversely, they will stick ON, resulting in a high idle when hot, very poor mileage, and hard starting when hot. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
On 24 May 2005 02:32:42 -0700, "Shark" > wrote:
>> >3) Sometimes, when the car is on and I want to back up from complete >> >stop, I feel the reverse gear grinding as I switch to reverse. This >> >happens once in a while, even when I take every care to ensure that >> >the clutch is pressed all the way down. Then, if I come to neutral and >> >go reverse again there usually is no grinding. >> >> Your clutch may need adjustment. How much travel is there in the >> pedal before you feel resistance? > >Almost 3 quarters way down. However whenever I change gears I always >push all the way to the floor. Your clutch needs adjusting. Get yourself a shop manual from the dealer. Not a Haynes or Chilton's half-assed manual but a REAL manual. Be sure to get the Coupe supplement with it. >> >4) If I am travelling at high speed (60mph on gear 4) and try to >> >shift to 2nd, I feel grinding. >> >> That's too fast to go for second. Go for third, then 2nd, or learn to >> double-clutch. > >The reason I was trying is because I used to do such things on my >saturn too! I used to redline it on the second gear once every few >weeks. It was able to come from 4th gear to 2nd almost effortlessly. >The CRX is probably too old to accomodate that! The CRX is geared lower for better acceleration. 60 is too fast for 2nd. >> >Are these problems common, and how can I investigate further? I want >> >to know what this car wants. >> >> Love and tender care. Even better an Si engine and ECU. > >Whats ECU? The electronic control unit that runs the fuel injection system. >One more question that I forgot to ask: when I open the fuel tank cap >of this car, I feel pressure released.Always happens if I open it when >there some fuel in the car. When almost empty, there is hardly any >pressure. Should this be expected? Normal. >> I have a question for you: How many miles? >175k Has the timing belt been changed? What shape is the bodywork in? Was it driven on salted roads? |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
In article . com>,
Shark > wrote: >Do you mean I need to floor the gas before I turn the key? I never >tried that. I usually press the gas a little bit while I'm starting, >and blip it a little bit now and then while its warming up or if it >falls below 1.5k rpms. Many carburated cars needed this procedure (press the accelerator to the floor, then release, then start) on cold start. Check the owner's manual. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Timothy J. Lee Unsolicited bulk or commercial email is not welcome. No warranty of any kind is provided with this message. |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
1994 Jeep Cherokee 4WD Automatic Transmission questions | brookman1973 | Jeep | 11 | February 13th 05 06:42 PM |
Questions, questions, questions | Vernon Balbert | BMW | 15 | January 16th 05 03:01 AM |
1990 Ford F150 questions | papadad | Technology | 1 | January 7th 05 06:43 AM |
Where to get Official Speed Limit Info | [email protected] | Driving | 40 | January 3rd 05 07:10 AM |
First BMW - 318iS - few questions? | Kevin Rhodes | BMW | 5 | November 16th 04 10:02 PM |