Odd Sound and Vibration when turning

Lots of old posts on this issue - "Rear end whining" was a common complaint
on the 2002-03's. There was a TSB on it as well. If it wasn't fixed by the
original owner you are probably out of luck on any hidden warranty but it
couldn't hurt to try.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/tsb/fullt...hp?tsb=05-23-3
http://www.carcomplaints.com/Ford/Ex...problems.shtml
http://groups.google.ca/groups?sourc...=1&sa=N&tab=wg

--
Allan Williams



"Ulysses" /> wrote in message
...
>
> "brazzle" > wrote in message
> ...
>> On Nov 16, 1:30 pm, brazzle > wrote:
>> > On Nov 15, 2:55 pm, "Ulysses" /> wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > > "brazzle" > wrote in message
>> >
>> > roups.com...
>> >
>> > > > On Nov 13, 11:01 am, "Ulysses" /> wrote:
>> > > > > "brazzle" > wrote in message
>> >
>> > > > oups.com...
>> >
>> > > > > > Hello all.
>> >
>> > > > > > I have a 2002 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer with about 95,000 miles
> on it.
>> >
>> > > > > > I have owned the car for a year, but about 2 months ago I
> noticed that
>> > > > > > when I would turn at low speed (0-25 mph) very sharply, I would
> get a
>> > > > > > very troublesome sound and vibration that seemed to come from
> the
>> > > > > > tires. The sound is kind of like a series of pops, or maybe
>> > > > > > grinding... hard to say. Honestly, it almost sounds like the
>> > > > > > pop
> I get
>> > > > > > from turning too sharply in four wheel drive (which I hear is
> supposed
>> > > > > > to be normal...)
>> >
>> > > > > > I know, basically, nothing about cars. I took this into my
> dealer and
>> > > > > > they said they couldn't find any actual damage, but that the
> tires
>> > > > > > seemed to have some pretty bad wear on them (there seems to be
> plenty
>> > > > > > of tread, so I'm assuming the wear is on the edge).
>> >
>> > > > > > Could this cause this sound? I had the tires rotated and
> balanced, but
>> > > > > > it didn't help at all, and I try to make sure my tires are
> inflated to
>> > > > > > 35 psi in the rear and 30 psi in the front (as per the sticker
> on the
>> > > > > > car).
>> >
>> > > > > > I believe the tires that were on the Explorer when I bought it
>> > > > > > a
> year
>> > > > > > ago were brand new (since they had the factory colored stripe
>> > > > > > on
>> > > > > > them), so it seems odd to me that they'd wear so quickly.
>> >
>> > > > > > Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>> >
>> > > > > > Thanks,
>> >
>> > > > > > Braden
>> >
>> > > > > If you have Control Trac 4WD and your tires are worn the sensor
> may
>> > > think
>> > > > > they are slipping and go into 4WD. I'm not sure about the '02
>> > > > > but
> on
>> > > the
>> > > > > slightly earlier Control Trac models there have been reported
> problems
>> > > with
>> > > > > a dirty sensor in the transfer case that was causing it to go
>> > > > > into
> 4WD.
>> > > The
>> > > > > solution to that problem was to clean or replace the sensor.
>> >
>> > > > Interesting. Is there a way for me to know if I have this feature?
> Is
>> > > > it the same as Auto 4x4?
>> > > > Mine is one of the earlier 2002 models without some of the features
>> > > > that came out later in the model year.
>> >
>> > > > Appreciate the help.
>> >
>> > > > Thanks,
>> >
>> > > > Braden
>> >
>> > > Unfortunately I can't say for sure if the '02 has the same type of
> automatic
>> > > 4WD system but I imagine it still has sensors which determine the
> speed at
>> > > which the wheels are rotating. If they are not the same then it
> determines
>> > > that something is slipping somewhere and 4WD is probably a good idea
> about
>> > > now and engages. If your tires are enevenly worn then they will be
>> > > traveling at slightly different speeds. That could possibly account
> for the
>> > > noise you hear on turns. If it continues something is likely to
> break.
>> > > And, like I said before, the other reason it might go into 4WD when
>> > > it
>> > > shouldn't is because of the bad/dirty sensor on the transfer case. I
> can't
>> > > say for sure if that is what your problem is but those would be the
> first
>> > > things I'd look into.
>> >
>> > > Dave made a good point about differential additives. If you have a
> limited
>> > > slip differential and don't add the additive when you change the oil
> it can
>> > > cause problems. I've not had this particular problem because I
>> > > always
> add
>> > > the limited slip additive. I've also not heard about an additive for
> the
>> > > front differential so that is news to me.
>> >
>> > > 30 psi sounds a bit low to me for the front but maybe Ford has their
>> > > reasons. I have a new Tire Inflation sticker for my '92 that was
> issued as
>> > > a recall. They used to recommend some rather low pressures but
> someone must
>> > > have told them that people were actually driving these things on
>> > > paved
> roads
>> > > and raised it after all the blowouts and rollovers. My '91 says 30F
> and 35R
>> > > but I keep my front tires at about 33-35 and the rear about 35-37.
>> > > If
> your
>> > > tires are wearing too quickly or enevenly that could mean you need an
>> > > alignment or new shocks. What kind of tires are they? Probably
>> > > about
> 90%
>> > > of the folks here prefer the Michelin LTX M/S tires. The only ones
> I've had
>> > > that I possibly liked better were the recalled Firestone Wilderness
> tires.
>> > > They seemed to be a little better on ice and slippery mud but I have
> limited
>> > > experience in those conditions.
>> >
>> > Thank you guys for your replies.
>> >
>> > I took my Explorer back to my dealer today and the shop manager says
>> > that she believes it has something to do with the rear differential
>> > and she is going to investigate it. I am going to get the oil changed
>> > also and have them add differential additives. I'll let you know how
>> > it goes and hopefully it solves my problems.
>> >
>> > Thanks,
>> >
>> > Braden
>>
>> Alright, update. My Ford dealership wants $1350 to rebuild the rear
>> differential. they say that the clutch packets are worn and need to be
>> replaced and they want to do some other work while they're under there
>> (of course). Unfortunately all the 'other' work is for things I have
>> known about and so I'm not sure I want to decline them. What do you
>> guys think? Any harm in trying some differential additives and seeing
>> how things go for a while?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Braden
>
> Gee whiz. I've not read any posts that I can remember about anyone having
> any serious rear-end problems on any Explorers. You might want to do a
> Google search and see if anything turns up. I can't seem to remember
> exactly what the sympoms are of not adding the limited slip additive to
> the
> rear differential but what you described might fit.
>
> My experiences with my local Ford dealer have not been real great. I took
> my '91 in for a brake booster recall and asked them to check the front
> locking hubs. They determined that the hubs were bad and it would cost
> $950
> to replace them. They also found about $3000 worth of other stuff to fix.
> I might have believed them except they also said I needed new radiator
> hoses. The hoses on there were only about 2 weeks old. This discredited
> anything they told me from then on. I replaced my auto hubs with manuals
> for about $165 or so.
>
> The bottom line for me is that the Ford Service Department seems to be in
> cahoots with the Sales Department. If you have a car worth, say, $5000
> they
> will find $7000 worth of repairs it needs so you'll just go buy a new one
> instead.
>
> If your tires are worn you need new tires anyway (probably). I just find
> it
> hard to believe your rear end is already worn out. Personally I would
> change the oil and add the additive and see how that goes. Did you check
> the oil level? You just need (probably) a 3/8" drive rachet wrench and a
> finger. You remove the plug, stick your finger in there and see if it's
> up
> to the plug. Maybe it's just low. To change the oil you normally remove
> the cover and use black high-temp silicone as a new gasket. This can be
> difficult sometimes. The other way is to get a gear oil pump and pump it
> out but you won't get all the oil out and you can't take a look inside and
> inspect for wear etc.
>
> I you get a Hayne's or Chilton's manual it *might* tell you how to remove
> the transfer case sensor. They seem to be overcautious when it comes to
> transmissions and related stuff and figure that no information is better
> than a little. You can probably find a Ford Service Manual on CD on eBay
> for around $10. That will tell you how to remove the sensor but it takes
> a
> while to get used to finding anything on those CD manuals.
>
> Personally I'd get a couple more opinions before having the differential
> work done.
>
>

brazzle wrote:
> On Nov 16, 1:30 pm, brazzle > wrote:
>> On Nov 15, 2:55 pm, "Ulysses" /> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>> "brazzle" > wrote in message
>>> oups.com...
>>>> On Nov 13, 11:01 am, "Ulysses" /> wrote:
>>>>> "brazzle" > wrote in message
>>>>> ups.com...
>>>>>> Hello all.
>>>>>> I have a 2002 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer with about 95,000 miles on it.
>>>>>> I have owned the car for a year, but about 2 months ago I noticed that
>>>>>> when I would turn at low speed (0-25 mph) very sharply, I would get a
>>>>>> very troublesome sound and vibration that seemed to come from the
>>>>>> tires. The sound is kind of like a series of pops, or maybe
>>>>>> grinding... hard to say. Honestly, it almost sounds like the pop I get
>>>>>> from turning too sharply in four wheel drive (which I hear is supposed
>>>>>> to be normal...)
>>>>>> I know, basically, nothing about cars. I took this into my dealer and
>>>>>> they said they couldn't find any actual damage, but that the tires
>>>>>> seemed to have some pretty bad wear on them (there seems to be plenty
>>>>>> of tread, so I'm assuming the wear is on the edge).
>>>>>> Could this cause this sound? I had the tires rotated and balanced, but
>>>>>> it didn't help at all, and I try to make sure my tires are inflated to
>>>>>> 35 psi in the rear and 30 psi in the front (as per the sticker on the
>>>>>> car).
>>>>>> I believe the tires that were on the Explorer when I bought it a year
>>>>>> ago were brand new (since they had the factory colored stripe on
>>>>>> them), so it seems odd to me that they'd wear so quickly.
>>>>>> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>> Braden
>>>>> If you have Control Trac 4WD and your tires are worn the sensor may
>>> think
>>>>> they are slipping and go into 4WD. I'm not sure about the '02 but on
>>> the
>>>>> slightly earlier Control Trac models there have been reported problems
>>> with
>>>>> a dirty sensor in the transfer case that was causing it to go into 4WD.
>>> The
>>>>> solution to that problem was to clean or replace the sensor.
>>>> Interesting. Is there a way for me to know if I have this feature? Is
>>>> it the same as Auto 4x4?
>>>> Mine is one of the earlier 2002 models without some of the features
>>>> that came out later in the model year.
>>>> Appreciate the help.
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Braden
>>> Unfortunately I can't say for sure if the '02 has the same type of automatic
>>> 4WD system but I imagine it still has sensors which determine the speed at
>>> which the wheels are rotating. If they are not the same then it determines
>>> that something is slipping somewhere and 4WD is probably a good idea about
>>> now and engages. If your tires are enevenly worn then they will be
>>> traveling at slightly different speeds. That could possibly account for the
>>> noise you hear on turns. If it continues something is likely to break.
>>> And, like I said before, the other reason it might go into 4WD when it
>>> shouldn't is because of the bad/dirty sensor on the transfer case. I can't
>>> say for sure if that is what your problem is but those would be the first
>>> things I'd look into.
>>> Dave made a good point about differential additives. If you have a limited
>>> slip differential and don't add the additive when you change the oil it can
>>> cause problems. I've not had this particular problem because I always add
>>> the limited slip additive. I've also not heard about an additive for the
>>> front differential so that is news to me.
>>> 30 psi sounds a bit low to me for the front but maybe Ford has their
>>> reasons. I have a new Tire Inflation sticker for my '92 that was issued as
>>> a recall. They used to recommend some rather low pressures but someone must
>>> have told them that people were actually driving these things on paved roads
>>> and raised it after all the blowouts and rollovers. My '91 says 30F and 35R
>>> but I keep my front tires at about 33-35 and the rear about 35-37. If your
>>> tires are wearing too quickly or enevenly that could mean you need an
>>> alignment or new shocks. What kind of tires are they? Probably about 90%
>>> of the folks here prefer the Michelin LTX M/S tires. The only ones I've had
>>> that I possibly liked better were the recalled Firestone Wilderness tires.
>>> They seemed to be a little better on ice and slippery mud but I have limited
>>> experience in those conditions.
>> Thank you guys for your replies.
>>
>> I took my Explorer back to my dealer today and the shop manager says
>> that she believes it has something to do with the rear differential
>> and she is going to investigate it. I am going to get the oil changed
>> also and have them add differential additives. I'll let you know how
>> it goes and hopefully it solves my problems.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Braden
>
> Alright, update. My Ford dealership wants $1350 to rebuild the rear
> differential. they say that the clutch packets are worn and need to be
> replaced and they want to do some other work while they're under there
> (of course). Unfortunately all the 'other' work is for things I have
> known about and so I'm not sure I want to decline them. What do you
> guys think? Any harm in trying some differential additives and seeing
> how things go for a while?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Braden
Definitely get some other opinions and estimates. I needed the
differential rebuilt on my '94 when it had only 50,000 miles on it.
Possibly ruined by backing too far into the lake while launching my
boat. The dealer wanted some similar price to what you were quoted, I
had it done at my local mom and pop shop for $600 for a complete rebuild.