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#11
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Bleed the air out of the block? Wouldn't have thought of that. Thanks for
the info. When I say it runs poorly, I mean that the it feels like the engine is being taxed by the extra load from the A/C and elevated operating temperature. So far, it hasn't passed the "A" (Normal) position on the temp guage but the change in performance is noticeable. Let me know what your thoughts. Thanks, |
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#12
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IAC? What and where is it located on the engine?
The idle speed is ok. The engine just tends to warm up when I run the A/C on hot days. At night it runs cool. I think I'm dealing with a bad thermostat, radiator or fan switch. Let me know what you think. Thanks, |
#13
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Thanks for the info. The condenser sounds very logical considering your
explanation. However, it may be a combination of the condenser and water pump because the engine has warmed up on extremely hot days without the a/c running. I also noticed that the coolant is not flowing as quickly as it should. On a seperate note, I was also told that a non-OEM thermostat would cause variations in engine temp causing it to warm up. What are your thoughts? I really appreciate the advice. Let me know what you think. |
#14
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Give me break. Honestly, what kind of "tard" posts an idiotic message on a
messageboard aimed at HELPING fellow motorists? Get a life and if you don't have anything good or constructive to say, don't waste my time. To me, you sound like a spoiled prick who has nothing better to do than bad-mouth others who make modest decisions when purchasing a vehicle. Go find a chat room on AOL to talk ****. This messageboard is for people with good advice not insults. JACKASS! |
#15
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Not sure about testing the radiator. I had the coolant changed out a few
months ago and the last time I took it in for an oil change, I had them test the coolant. They said it was fine. About the blown gasket or cracked head, how would I know if that were the case? The engine stays cool on the highway even with the A/C running. No water or oil leaks either. The fan seems to be working fine. It appears to run all the time when operating during the day. Let me know what you think. Thanks |
#16
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I was told 1998 models don't have a fan clutch. That was my original
thinking because I had an older model Oldsmobile that would do the same thing. I'll look into it further. As for the radiator, I'm leaning more towards the condenser considering the engine only tends to warm up when I run the A/C on extremely hot days. Then again, the radiator seems more logical because the engine has warmed up when I run the car for prolonged periods during the day even without the A/C running. Come to think of it, the last time I had my radiator serviced, the tech told me there was a significant amount of sediment in the resevoir. He had to remove it and flush it out completely. Good sugestions. Let me know if you have any further comments. Thanks, |
#17
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On Sat, 28 May 2005 15:48:28 +0000, GEB rearranged some electrons to form:
> "tarzan" wrote in a message: > If it runs normal without the A/C on, then the reason it runs warmer with > the A/C on is just that. Remember, the condenser is in front of the > radiator, and its job is to cool the freon, and turn it from a liquid to a > gas. Actually the condenser turns the refrigerant from a gas to a liquid. -- David M (dmacchiarolo) http://home.triad.rr.com/redsled T/S 53 sled351 Linux 2.4.18-14 has been up 3 days 23:11 |
#18
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On Sat, 28 May 2005 16:43:19 -0400, tarzan wrote:
> IAC? What and where is it located on the engine? > It's the idle air control. It may not be your problem at all, but when mine went out it ran like CRAP when I was sitting at a light. It would shake and stutter like crazy until I turned the A/C on.:-) > The idle speed is ok. The engine just tends to warm up when I run the A/C > on hot days. At night it runs cool. I think I'm dealing with a bad > thermostat, radiator or fan switch. > Probably. I learned the hard way to never use aftermarket parts unless you are looking for performance parts. > Let me know what you think. > > Thanks, |
#19
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On Sat, 28 May 2005 16:38:18 -0400, tarzan wrote:
> Bleed the air out of the block? Wouldn't have thought of that. Thanks for > the info. > > When I say it runs poorly, I mean that the it feels like the engine is > being taxed by the extra load from the A/C and elevated operating > temperature. So far, it hasn't passed the "A" (Normal) position on the > temp guage but the change in performance is noticeable. > > Let me know what your thoughts. > > Thanks, Take her to Ford |
#20
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head gasket would more than likely make it's presence known pretty much all
the time..... Some radiator shops are set up to flow test the rad, but at nearly 8 years old and 160,000 miles, your car ain't no spring chicken. In our area, it is common to see the radiator fins plugged off between the condeser and the rad (where it is difficult to see. In your case, I would concentrate my efforts on things that might inhibit air flow through the rad at low speeds. "tarzan" > wrote in message lkaboutautos.com... > Not sure about testing the radiator. I had the coolant changed out a few > months ago and the last time I took it in for an oil change, I had them > test the coolant. They said it was fine. About the blown gasket or cracked > head, how would I know if that were the case? The engine stays cool on the > highway even with the A/C running. No water or oil leaks either. The fan > seems to be working fine. It appears to run all the time when operating > during the day. > > Let me know what you think. > > Thanks > |
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