4X4 lights flashing updated version

Ok, The lights flash 5 times then go off. the 4X4 high was working correctly
up til now. We were using the high tonight, I went back out to move the
truck and noticed the lights flashing. I have and actron OBDII reader
(CP9135), I plugged it in but no codes were present. Not sure how to read
the codes from the flashing lights. The truck has 86000 on it looks like new
and runs great! I have recently changed the MAF, as well as all the recalls
that I am aware of IE tensioner , TB. I change the oil regularly and use
full synthetic with a K&N oil filter. I am very fond of this truck even
though people call them Exploders, I have not had any problems, Til now. But
I assume that this may just be a sensor problem, but nonetheless I am still
frustrated over it.

Searcher1

Searcher 1 wrote:
> Ok, The lights flash 5 times then go off. the 4X4 high was working correctly
> up til now. We were using the high tonight, I went back out to move the
> truck and noticed the lights flashing. I have and actron OBDII reader
> (CP9135), I plugged it in but no codes were present. Not sure how to read
> the codes from the flashing lights. The truck has 86000 on it looks like new
> and runs great! I have recently changed the MAF, as well as all the recalls
> that I am aware of IE tensioner , TB. I change the oil regularly and use
> full synthetic with a K&N oil filter. I am very fond of this truck even
> though people call them Exploders, I have not had any problems, Til now. But
> I assume that this may just be a sensor problem, but nonetheless I am still
> frustrated over it.
>
> Searcher1
>
>

Be careful, You may be about to find out why "people call them
Exploders". :-)




Sorry couldn't resist...
Good Luck anyway.

Searcher 1 wrote:

> Ok, The lights flash 5 times then go off. the 4X4 high was working
> correctly up til now. We were using the high tonight, I went back out to
> move the truck and noticed the lights flashing. I have and actron OBDII
> reader (CP9135), I plugged it in but no codes were present. Not sure how
> to read the codes from the flashing lights. The truck has 86000 on it
> looks like new and runs great! I have recently changed the MAF, as well as
> all the recalls that I am aware of IE tensioner , TB. I change the oil
> regularly and use full synthetic with a K&N oil filter. I am very fond of
> this truck even though people call them Exploders, I have not had any
> problems, Til now. But I assume that this may just be a sensor problem,
> but nonetheless I am still frustrated over it.
>
> Searcher1


Had the same problem on a 96, was speed sensors on the transfer case.
Replaced them, solved the problem.
--
Jack

Build a man a fire, and he will be warm for a day. Set a man on fire, and he
will be warm for the rest of his life.

Ok, I have been over the truck, No blown fuses, No codes - all systems state
"ready". Plugs and harnesses at or near the transfer case look good. No
debris on undercarriage. AWD seems to engage, I took er out on a snow
covered hill, the front tires engaged as normal. No strange sounds emenating
from the vehicle.
Called dealer, say's bring it in we'll take a look at it, YEAH RIGHT! I can
look at it just fine thanks! It the fixing part that scares me, I don't have
any extra arms n legs to give out right now.
I could fix it myself, if only I knew what it was thats broke! I also don't
want to buy sensors and such using the trial and error method. Is there a
sure fire way to troubleshhot this problem.
]
Searcher1
AKA Rich

Well, perhaps understanding the system a bit will help. First of all, and a
really a bit of a nit, you have 4WD, not AWD. The V8 models with AWD have
both axles engaged all the time through a viscous coupling and no way to
disable that or select a low-range. That system does not allow the front and
rear driveshafts to be "locked" so it does not provide quite the same
traction available in the Control-Trac 4WD setup.

In the '97 and later versions of Control Trac, when you select either 4WD-Hi
or 4WD-Lo the transfer case clutch pack is engaged continuously to lock the
front and rear drive shafts together. This should only be used in poor
traction conditions or going straight ahead as when the truck turns, the
rear wheels go a shorter distance than the front and since the axles are
locked together, something has to give! Either the wheels drag on the ground
or something breaks or pops in the drive train. Shouldn't be trying that! In
4WD-Auto, the clutch pack in the transfer case is periodically pulsed to
close, allowing drive line bind-up to be quickly relieved, and that
engagement time is regulated by the GEM looking at the relieve speeds of the
front and rear drive
shafts. If the rear is going faster than the front, for example, it must be
slipping so increase the clutch engagement time in 10% increments until the
speeds match or the front is going faster than the rear.

The flashing lights mean "something" is wrong in the automatic system
(usually a bad speed sensor or electrical connection, worst case a bad GEM
or clutch pack), or low range is not getting engaged (bad limit switch or
motor or just stuck). In the failure mode, the 4WD-Auto reverts to 2WD,
only, but I believe you still engage and lock the clutch pack in the other
positions. Sounds like you may have a problem with the Auto system (which is
designed to handle rain and wet streets and such), but the rest may be OK if
you are getting powered rotation of the front wheels. Check the connectors
to the sensors and clean them, and try cleaning the gear (tone wheel?)
inside as some have reported that fine shavings and crud can mess the
sensors up. Next step would be to replace the sensors. Good luck!

=Vic=
Bear Gap, PA


"Searcher 1" > wrote in message
news:N13Vd.65220$Dc.14707@trnddc06...
> Ok, I have been over the truck, No blown fuses, No codes - all systems
state
> "ready". Plugs and harnesses at or near the transfer case look good. No
> debris on undercarriage. AWD seems to engage, I took er out on a snow
> covered hill, the front tires engaged as normal. No strange sounds
emenating
> from the vehicle.
> Called dealer, say's bring it in we'll take a look at it, YEAH RIGHT! I
can
> look at it just fine thanks! It the fixing part that scares me, I don't
have
> any extra arms n legs to give out right now.
> I could fix it myself, if only I knew what it was thats broke! I also
don't
> want to buy sensors and such using the trial and error method. Is there a
> sure fire way to troubleshhot this problem.
> ]
> Searcher1
> AKA Rich
>
>

Thanks Vic,
I will be looking into the sensors first thing in the morning, I need to go
out and purchase a Chiltons for it first.

Thanks Agian

Rich
AKA searcher1
\

I had this same symptom last year, I cleaned the metal sludge off of
the sensors and it was OK for a couple of weeks. When the lights
flashed again I re-cleaned the sensors AND changed the fluid. Been
fine ever since. The fluid is easy to drain but you need a turkey
baster, patience, and rolled up sleeves to refill it.

"Searcher 1" > wrote in message
news:mjqVd.53199$uc.26068@trnddc03...
> Thanks Vic,
> I will be looking into the sensors first thing in the morning, I
need to go
> out and purchase a Chiltons for it first.
>
> Thanks Agian
>
> Rich
> AKA searcher1
> \
>
>

When you say you cleaned the metal sludge off the sensors, could you explain
this to me. I have been looking for a book on how to repplace the sensors
but cannot find anything local to purchase. Did you remove the sensors to
clean them if so how did you do this. Is this hard to do? I am mechanically
inclined. But I am just afraid to tackle this without prior knowledge. I
don't want to open the proverbeal can o worms. Will there be leakage in
changing the sensors? Do I need anything special?
The sensors cost 28 for one and 17 for the other, I am hoping that this is
all it is and the GEM and the shift motor is still good. Like I said before
the front wheels spin when the rear lose traction so I figure the TX case is
fine, I just don't hear anything to tell me that the shift motor is trying
to do the job.

I can remember when my 68 dodge charger tranny went and all it cost was 350
for another one and the fix was quick n easy.... Now just to figure out what
is wrong you need 1000 scan tools that give you a code that tells you whats
wrong. I know its much better now but whew that difficulties for the average
JOE are tremendous.

Searcher1

Regarding the shift motor, it is only used to shift in and out of 4WD-Low in
the later versions of Control-Trac. If yours goes in and out of low range
without problems, you can eliminate that as a possible problem. Other 4WD
functions are done by changing the way the electromagnetic clutch pack is
engaged in the transfer case. Also, the GEM controls a number of other
functions such as wipers, door locks, and the interior lights. If there are
no other symptoms besides the 4WD lights flashing, it is unlikely that the
GEM has a problem. Usually the problem is related to the Hall-effect speed
sensors in some way, from what I've seen. Good luck.

=Vic=
Bear Gap, PA

"Searcher 1" > wrote in message
news:ZFuVd.73634$uc.59352@trnddc04...
<clip>
> The sensors cost 28 for one and 17 for the other, I am hoping that this is
> all it is and the GEM and the shift motor is still good. Like I said
before
> the front wheels spin when the rear lose traction so I figure the TX case
is
> fine, I just don't hear anything to tell me that the shift motor is trying
> to do the job.
>
> I can remember when my 68 dodge charger tranny went and all it cost was
350
> for another one and the fix was quick n easy.... Now just to figure out
what
> is wrong you need 1000 scan tools that give you a code that tells you
whats
> wrong. I know its much better now but whew that difficulties for the
average
> JOE are tremendous.
>
> Searcher1
>
>

Great, That eases my mind. I am off to the parts store.
Thanks to ALL for your help.

RIch
Searcher1