Stratus Transmission leak

Last winter, I went over a snow-covered speed bump at a speed faster
than it was designed for. These speed bumps are invisible when covered
with snow, and after dark.

Soon after, a transmission leak developed. To save time, I took it to
a transmission shop. He said that I had just broken the seal on the
pan.

I had them to a "standard service" which meant new fluid, a rubber
gasket, and a new filter. The repair held for about three months,
before the leaking resumed.

Not feeling good about the rubber gasket or the dexron/Lube Guard
combo that the shop used, I decided to go to the dealer and purchase
the Chrysler reusable gasket. I installed the new gasket, and replaced
the fluid with ATF+4.

No problems for more than six months. Now it has started leaking
again. I will probably check to ensure that none of the bolts have
come loose. Other than that, I don't know what else to check. Is it
possible that I may have distorted the pan in the speed bump incident.
I did not noticed any bends or cracks when I had the pan off.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

-KM

"KirkM" > wrote in message
...
> Last winter, I went over a snow-covered speed bump at a speed faster
> than it was designed for. These speed bumps are invisible when covered
> with snow, and after dark.
>
> Soon after, a transmission leak developed. To save time, I took it to
> a transmission shop. He said that I had just broken the seal on the
> pan.
>
> I had them to a "standard service" which meant new fluid, a rubber
> gasket, and a new filter. The repair held for about three months,
> before the leaking resumed.
>
> Not feeling good about the rubber gasket or the dexron/Lube Guard
> combo that the shop used, I decided to go to the dealer and purchase
> the Chrysler reusable gasket. I installed the new gasket, and replaced
> the fluid with ATF+4.
>
> No problems for more than six months. Now it has started leaking
> again. I will probably check to ensure that none of the bolts have
> come loose. Other than that, I don't know what else to check.

Did you use a torque wrench when you installed the pan bolts?

If you did not you probably overtorqued them. The torque value
for those bolts is not very high.

Also, because the torque value is not high, the bolts need to be
retorqued about a week after installation.

You can always use the special RTV that is designed to be
resistant to transmission fluid. If you do that, I would recommend
that you have a trans shop weld in a drain plug to the pan when
you have it out. The usual procedure is to drill a small hole then
weld a nut into the pan, and a washer on top of the nut, then
screw a countersunk allen head screw into that from the
outside. It occupies very little space in the pan and is flush
with the bottom of the pan from the outside.

Ted

On Dec 11, 10:46*pm, "Ted Mittelstaedt" > wrote:
> "KirkM" > wrote in message
>
> ...
>
>
>
>
>
> > Last winter, I went over a snow-covered speed bump at a speed faster
> > than it was designed for. These speed bumps are invisible when covered
> > with snow, and after dark.
>
> > Soon after, a transmission leak developed. To save time, I took it to
> > a transmission shop. He said that I had just broken the seal on the
> > pan.
>
> > I had them to a "standard service" which meant new fluid, a rubber
> > gasket, and a new filter. The repair held for about three months,
> > before the leaking resumed.
>
> > Not feeling good about the rubber gasket or the dexron/Lube Guard
> > combo that the shop used, I decided to go to the dealer and purchase
> > the Chrysler reusable gasket. I installed the new gasket, and replaced
> > the fluid with ATF+4.
>
> > No problems for more than six months. Now it has started leaking
> > again. I will probably check to ensure that none of the bolts have
> > come loose. Other than that, I don't know what else to check.
>
> Did you use a torque wrench when you installed the pan bolts?
>
> If you did not you probably overtorqued them. *The torque value
> for those bolts is not very high.
>
> Also, because the torque value is not high, the bolts need to be
> retorqued about a week after installation.
>
> You can always use the special RTV that is designed to be
> resistant to transmission fluid. *If you do that, I would recommend
> that you have a trans shop weld in a drain plug to the pan when
> you have it out. *The usual procedure is to drill a small hole then
> weld a nut into the pan, and a washer on top of the nut, then
> screw a countersunk allen head screw into that from the
> outside. *It occupies very little space in the pan and is flush
> with the bottom of the pan from the outside.
>
> Ted- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- Update --

I took a closer look last night, the reusable gasket is holding fine.
No leaks anywhere on the transmission.

There is fluid dripping from the plastic rivits that hold the bottom
of the fascia on. I suspect the transmission cooler portion of the
radiator is leaking. The hoses look okay.

Looks like a new radiator.

-KM

KirkM wrote:

> I took a closer look last night, the reusable gasket is holding fine.
> No leaks anywhere on the transmission.
>
> There is fluid dripping from the plastic rivits that hold the bottom
> of the fascia on. I suspect the transmission cooler portion of the
> radiator is leaking. The hoses look okay.
>
> Looks like a new radiator.
>
> -KM

That may be the case, but if the tranny cooler connections are anything
like the LH cars, it is likely some hose clamps that simply tightening.
Very common - at least on the LH cars.

--
Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

On Dec 12, 3:46*pm, Bill Putney > wrote:
> KirkM wrote:
> > I took a closer look last night, the reusable gasket is holding fine.
> > No leaks anywhere on the transmission.
>
> > There is fluid dripping from the plastic rivits that hold the bottom
> > of the fascia on. I suspect the transmission cooler portion of the
> > radiator is leaking. The hoses look okay.
>
> > Looks like a new radiator.
>
> > -KM
>
> That may be the case, but if the tranny cooler connections are anything
> like the LH cars, it is likely some hose clamps that simply tightening.
> * Very common - at least on the LH cars.
>
> --
> Bill Putney
> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
> address with the letter 'x')

Thanks. I am hoping that is all it is. I can't really get a good look
at the hose connections until I take it apart.

I had another car leak like this. I only had to re-positon the
clamps, and that took care of it.

-KM