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Rear Bearing Installation



 
 
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  #1  
Old March 21st 05, 07:00 PM
Kent
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Default Rear Bearing Installation

I'm at it again. I'm changing the rear bearings on my '87 VW GTI. Any tips
on the best way to press the inner bearing race into the rotors in the
absence of a hydraulic press and the right size press tool? I usually use a
socket with a bolt/washer/nut in these situations, but I'm having trouble
finding a socket that has the right diameter to match the thin edge of the
race. If it doesn't match closely, I'm afraid I will damage the race or
bearing seat during the process. Would it be okay to put the bearing in the
race and press the whole thing in together? This would give me the larger
area of the bearing face to press against. Will I damage anything if I do
this? Any recommendations or experiences would be greatly appreciated.

--
Kent
1987 VW GTI 8V, original owner, 222,000+ miles


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  #2  
Old March 21st 05, 08:20 PM
Tom's VR6
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Default

In rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled, Kent wrote:

>I'm at it again. I'm changing the rear bearings on my '87 VW GTI. Any tips
>on the best way to press the inner bearing race into the rotors in the
>absence of a hydraulic press and the right size press tool? I usually use a
>socket with a bolt/washer/nut in these situations, but I'm having trouble
>finding a socket that has the right diameter to match the thin edge of the
>race. If it doesn't match closely, I'm afraid I will damage the race or
>bearing seat during the process.


I found a fender washer at Home Depot that matched my rear bearings.

I was replacing my disk+hubs too, and I only realized later that I
could have had them pressed together before shipment for a
reasonable fee.

  #3  
Old March 21st 05, 08:43 PM
Kent
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"Tom's VR6" > wrote in message
...

> I found a fender washer at Home Depot that matched my rear bearings.


Ah yes, Home Depot. One of my favorite sources of VW "specialty tools" at
budget prices. I'll check out the fender washer idea. Thanks.

--
Kent
1987 VW GTI 8V, original owner, 222,000+ miles


  #4  
Old March 21st 05, 09:42 PM
Woodchuck
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Default

Never had a need to use a hydraulic press. For years, before the fancy tools
came alomg... all I used was a brass drift punch.

"Kent" > wrote in message
...
> I'm at it again. I'm changing the rear bearings on my '87 VW GTI. Any tips
> on the best way to press the inner bearing race into the rotors in the
> absence of a hydraulic press and the right size press tool? I usually use
> a
> socket with a bolt/washer/nut in these situations, but I'm having trouble
> finding a socket that has the right diameter to match the thin edge of the
> race. If it doesn't match closely, I'm afraid I will damage the race or
> bearing seat during the process. Would it be okay to put the bearing in
> the
> race and press the whole thing in together? This would give me the larger
> area of the bearing face to press against. Will I damage anything if I do
> this? Any recommendations or experiences would be greatly appreciated.
>
> --
> Kent
> 1987 VW GTI 8V, original owner, 222,000+ miles
>
>



  #5  
Old March 21st 05, 11:18 PM
Nate Nagel
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Default

Johann Koenig wrote:

> On Monday March 21 at 11:00am
> "Kent" > wrote:
>
>
>>I'm at it again. I'm changing the rear bearings on my '87 VW GTI. Any
>>tips on the best way to press the inner bearing race into the rotors
>>in the absence of a hydraulic press and the right size press tool? I
>>usually use a socket with a bolt/washer/nut in these situations, but
>>I'm having trouble finding a socket that has the right diameter to
>>match the thin edge of the race. If it doesn't match closely, I'm
>>afraid I will damage the race or bearing seat during the process.
>>Would it be okay to put the bearing in the race and press the whole
>>thing in together? This would give me the larger area of the bearing
>>face to press against. Will I damage anything if I do this? Any
>>recommendations or experiences would be greatly appreciated.

>
>
> My dad taught me to use the old races to hammer the new ones in. Just
> hit the old one with a sander/grinder around the edge fist to make sure
> it doesn't get stuck.
> ________
> |/ \| < old one
> |\______/| < new one


Easier than that, just cut a slot in the old race with your cutoff tool.
That will allow it to contract slightly, like a piston ring. Still a
tight fit but will come out easily with a brass drift and a hammer.

nate


--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
  #6  
Old March 22nd 05, 01:14 AM
Kent
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Default

"Johann Koenig" > wrote in message
...

> My dad taught me to use the old races to hammer the new ones in. Just
> hit the old one with a sander/grinder around the edge fist to make sure
> it doesn't get stuck.
> ________
> |/ \| < old one
> |\______/| < new one



Never thought of this, but I like it. Especially the fancy illustration.
Thanks!

--
Kent
1987 VW GTI 8V, original owner, 222,000+ miles


  #7  
Old March 22nd 05, 01:17 AM
Kent
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"Nate Nagel" > wrote in message
...

> Easier than that, just cut a slot in the old race with your cutoff tool.
> That will allow it to contract slightly, like a piston ring. Still a
> tight fit but will come out easily with a brass drift and a hammer.


Nice...you guys are good.

--
Kent
1987 VW GTI 8V, original owner, 222,000+ miles


  #8  
Old March 22nd 05, 02:41 PM
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Default

I use the old rave the other direction. If I happen to get the old one
stick I have something to smack against to tap it out. Nate's idea of
a zip wheel to "shrink" it might be a better idea.

"Kent" > wrote:

>"Johann Koenig" > wrote in message
n...
>
>> My dad taught me to use the old races to hammer the new ones in. Just
>> hit the old one with a sander/grinder around the edge fist to make sure
>> it doesn't get stuck.
>> ________
>> |/ \| < old one
>> |\______/| < new one

>
>
>Never thought of this, but I like it. Especially the fancy illustration.
>Thanks!



Jim B.
  #9  
Old March 22nd 05, 03:30 PM
RipVanWinkle
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I normally just use the old bearing race on the new bearing face tap real
gently and keep turning the bearing.
there are arguments that say you will damage the bearing face, but this has
never happened to me kinda depends how hard you tap


> wrote in message
...
> I use the old rave the other direction. If I happen to get the old one
> stick I have something to smack against to tap it out. Nate's idea of
> a zip wheel to "shrink" it might be a better idea.
>
> "Kent" > wrote:
>
> >"Johann Koenig" > wrote in message
> n...
> >
> >> My dad taught me to use the old races to hammer the new ones in. Just
> >> hit the old one with a sander/grinder around the edge fist to make sure
> >> it doesn't get stuck.
> >> ________
> >> |/ \| < old one
> >> |\______/| < new one

> >
> >
> >Never thought of this, but I like it. Especially the fancy illustration.
> >Thanks!

>
>
> Jim B.



  #10  
Old March 25th 05, 11:19 PM
EC
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Default

Kent wrote:

Would it be okay to put the bearing in the
> race and press the whole thing in together?


NO.


Place the old race on top of the new one, after first lightly tapping
the new race slightly into place with
a plastic hammer or similar tool.

Then strike the old race while holding it in position atop the new race,
being sure to strike and then move the hammer
to a position 180 degrees from the first strike.

Just keep tapping the new race until it "seats". You'll be able to tell
when it is seated because the
noise will change.

This is easy, and once you do it you'll see that.

 




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