Alam goes off when using key to unlock door.

If this is not the correct forum to ask this question, please suggest a better
one. Thanks!

I just bought a (pre-owned) 2006 Chrysler 300 Touring.
A strange (I think) thing is happening: When I lock the car, the security system
is armed (that's normal).
When I unlock the car using the key in the driver's door, and then open the
door, the alarm goes off.
Since this car is equipped with a very "authoritative" horn, it is a bit
embarrassing.

Is this a problem with my car? or am I overlooking something?

Thanks for any help and/or suggestions!

"John <><" > wrote in message
...
> If this is not the correct forum to ask this question, please suggest a
better
> one. Thanks!
>
> I just bought a (pre-owned) 2006 Chrysler 300 Touring.
> A strange (I think) thing is happening: When I lock the car, the security
system
> is armed (that's normal).
> When I unlock the car using the key in the driver's door, and then open
the
> door, the alarm goes off.
> Since this car is equipped with a very "authoritative" horn, it is a bit
> embarrassing.
>
> Is this a problem with my car? or am I overlooking something?
>
> Thanks for any help and/or suggestions!

Always start with reading the owners manual.
Since this model is not equipped with lock cylinder switches, passive
disarming of the VTSS is only possible if the vehicle is equipped with the
optional Sentry Key Immobilizer System (SKIS). On vehicles with SKIS,
turning the ignition switch to the On position using a valid SKIS key will
passively disarm VTSS. Active disarming of the VTSS occurs when the vehicle
is unlocked by depressing the "Unlock" button of the RKE transmitter. Once
the alarm has been activated, either disarming method will also deactivate
the alarm.



Glenn Beasley

Chrysler Tech

On Sun, 13 Aug 2006 11:06:00 -0400, "maxpower" > wrote:

>
>"John <><" > wrote in message
.. .
>> If this is not the correct forum to ask this question, please suggest a
>better
>> one. Thanks!
>>
>> I just bought a (pre-owned) 2006 Chrysler 300 Touring.
>> A strange (I think) thing is happening: When I lock the car, the security
>system
>> is armed (that's normal).
>> When I unlock the car using the key in the driver's door, and then open
>the
>> door, the alarm goes off.
>> Since this car is equipped with a very "authoritative" horn, it is a bit
>> embarrassing.
>>
>> Is this a problem with my car? or am I overlooking something?
>>
>> Thanks for any help and/or suggestions!
>
>Always start with reading the owners manual.
>Since this model is not equipped with lock cylinder switches, passive
>disarming of the VTSS is only possible if the vehicle is equipped with the
>optional Sentry Key Immobilizer System (SKIS). On vehicles with SKIS,
>turning the ignition switch to the On position using a valid SKIS key will
>passively disarm VTSS. Active disarming of the VTSS occurs when the vehicle
>is unlocked by depressing the "Unlock" button of the RKE transmitter. Once
>the alarm has been activated, either disarming method will also deactivate
>the alarm.
>
>
>Glenn Beasley
>
>Chrysler Tech
>
Thank you, Glenn: Wish the above info had been in the manual.

Whuch beggs the question: Why even sell additional keys which do not have the
RKE transmitter incorporated?
Do you feel dealers are familiar with the details you gave me?

Cheers!

"John <><" > wrote in message
...
> On Sun, 13 Aug 2006 11:06:00 -0400, "maxpower" >
wrote:
>
> >
> >"John <><" > wrote in message
> .. .
> >> If this is not the correct forum to ask this question, please suggest a
> >better
> >> one. Thanks!
> >>
> >> I just bought a (pre-owned) 2006 Chrysler 300 Touring.
> >> A strange (I think) thing is happening: When I lock the car, the
security
> >system
> >> is armed (that's normal).
> >> When I unlock the car using the key in the driver's door, and then open
> >the
> >> door, the alarm goes off.
> >> Since this car is equipped with a very "authoritative" horn, it is a
bit
> >> embarrassing.
> >>
> >> Is this a problem with my car? or am I overlooking something?
> >>
> >> Thanks for any help and/or suggestions!
> >
> >Always start with reading the owners manual.
> >Since this model is not equipped with lock cylinder switches, passive
> >disarming of the VTSS is only possible if the vehicle is equipped with
the
> >optional Sentry Key Immobilizer System (SKIS). On vehicles with SKIS,
> >turning the ignition switch to the On position using a valid SKIS key
will
> >passively disarm VTSS. Active disarming of the VTSS occurs when the
vehicle
> >is unlocked by depressing the "Unlock" button of the RKE transmitter.
Once
> >the alarm has been activated, either disarming method will also
deactivate
> >the alarm.
> >
> >
> >Glenn Beasley
> >
> >Chrysler Tech
> >
> Thank you, Glenn: Wish the above info had been in the manual.
>
> Whuch beggs the question: Why even sell additional keys which do not have
the
> RKE transmitter incorporated?
> Do you feel dealers are familiar with the details you gave me?
>
> Cheers!
>
It sounds like they gave you a key that is not intended for that vehicle.
Possibly for another model (recut key). Im sure if you had a new sales
person sell you the car they may not be familiar with the details, but that
is true for almost anything you buy now days. I just went to Circuit city to
find something that would boost my wireless router signal and the salesman
tried to sell me another router.

Glenn Beasley
Chrysler tech

"maxpower" > wrote in message
. ..
>
> "John <><" > wrote in message
> ...
> > On Sun, 13 Aug 2006 11:06:00 -0400, "maxpower" >
> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >"John <><" > wrote in message
> > .. .
> > >> If this is not the correct forum to ask this question, please suggest
a
> > >better
> > >> one. Thanks!
> > >>
> > >> I just bought a (pre-owned) 2006 Chrysler 300 Touring.
> > >> A strange (I think) thing is happening: When I lock the car, the
> security
> > >system
> > >> is armed (that's normal).
> > >> When I unlock the car using the key in the driver's door, and then
open
> > >the
> > >> door, the alarm goes off.
> > >> Since this car is equipped with a very "authoritative" horn, it is a
> bit
> > >> embarrassing.
> > >>
> > >> Is this a problem with my car? or am I overlooking something?
> > >>
> > >> Thanks for any help and/or suggestions!
> > >
> > >Always start with reading the owners manual.
> > >Since this model is not equipped with lock cylinder switches, passive
> > >disarming of the VTSS is only possible if the vehicle is equipped with
> the
> > >optional Sentry Key Immobilizer System (SKIS). On vehicles with SKIS,
> > >turning the ignition switch to the On position using a valid SKIS key
> will
> > >passively disarm VTSS. Active disarming of the VTSS occurs when the
> vehicle
> > >is unlocked by depressing the "Unlock" button of the RKE transmitter.
> Once
> > >the alarm has been activated, either disarming method will also
> deactivate
> > >the alarm.
> > >
> > >
> > >Glenn Beasley
> > >
> > >Chrysler Tech
> > >
> > Thank you, Glenn: Wish the above info had been in the manual.
> >
> > Whuch beggs the question: Why even sell additional keys which do not
have
> the
> > RKE transmitter incorporated?
> > Do you feel dealers are familiar with the details you gave me?
> >
> > Cheers!
> >
> It sounds like they gave you a key that is not intended for that
vehicle.
> Possibly for another model (recut key). Im sure if you had a new sales
> person sell you the car they may not be familiar with the details, but
that
> is true for almost anything you buy now days. I just went to Circuit city
to
> find something that would boost my wireless router signal and the salesman
> tried to sell me another router.
>

Just FYI Glenn, max transmission output is set by the FCC for all
transmitters
You cannot boost (legally) your wireless router signal - at least, not the
signal going into
the antenna.

All you can do is get a better antenna. The little cell-phone style
antennas
are not very good. Ebay is filled with people who make, usually in their
basement, antennas that have far better gain than the little cell phone
style
antenna. Antennas are pretty simple from a parts standpoint, but the
engineering that goes into them is not, and there is an art to making good
antennas.

If your wireless router antenna is not coupled with a fitting to your
router,
you will need a new one in order to use a better antenna. Some of the
cheaper routers come with permanently attached antennas. I would
find a better antenna on Ebay first, then buy whatever router the guy
that made it, recommends that you use.

Ted

I already knew what I wanted when I went to Circuit City.

http://www.linksys.com/servlet/Satel...s itorWrapper


They call it a range booster but what it really does is extend your
signal. You program it and plug it up to where the signal is weak and it
extends the signal. It works really good

Glenn Beasley
Chrysler Tech

This "extender" is a simple repeater. It "relays" the signal in both
directions between the low power client device and the only slightly higher
power Access Point. These do work well when used for their designed purpose
and provided there is adequate signal to noise ratio.

Regarding what Ted stated, there is indeed a maximum allowed WiFi Effective
Isotropic Radiated Power of 4 Watts (36dBm) for an Omni antenna in the USA.
By the way, this figure is way above what most residential/SOHO access
points will emit. Most of these devices are more along the order of
100-200mW EIRP (some are less). But, the usual problem is not with the AP
transmit power since it can usually be heard at the client device. The
usual issue is with the other direction, the uplink (the RF link from the
client to the AP) since the client device has much lower EIRP due to
physical antenna design and need to operate on lower (typically battery)
power.

Bob

"damnnickname" > wrote in message
lkaboutautos.com...
>I already knew what I wanted when I went to Circuit City.
>
> http://www.linksys.com/servlet/Satel...s itorWrapper
>
>
> They call it a range booster but what it really does is extend your
> signal. You program it and plug it up to where the signal is weak and it
> extends the signal. It works really good
>
> Glenn Beasley
> Chrysler Tech
>

"damnnickname" > wrote in message
lkaboutautos.com...
> I already knew what I wanted when I went to Circuit City.
>
>
http://www.linksys.com/servlet/Satel...s itorWrapper
>
>
> They call it a range booster but what it really does is extend your
> signal. You program it and plug it up to where the signal is weak and it
> extends the signal. It works really good
>

Keep in mind you can only use 1 of these with your access point, if
you try using multiple ones they will see each other's signals and
attempt to repeat each other.

Ted

"Bob Shuman" > wrote in message
m...
> This "extender" is a simple repeater. It "relays" the signal in both
> directions between the low power client device and the only slightly
higher
> power Access Point. These do work well when used for their designed
purpose
> and provided there is adequate signal to noise ratio.
>
> Regarding what Ted stated, there is indeed a maximum allowed WiFi
Effective
> Isotropic Radiated Power of 4 Watts (36dBm) for an Omni antenna in the
USA.
> By the way, this figure is way above what most residential/SOHO access
> points will emit. Most of these devices are more along the order of
> 100-200mW EIRP (some are less). But, the usual problem is not with the AP
> transmit power since it can usually be heard at the client device. The
> usual issue is with the other direction, the uplink (the RF link from the
> client to the AP) since the client device has much lower EIRP due to
> physical antenna design and need to operate on lower (typically battery)
> power.
>

Keep in mind with a higher gain antenna at the base unit, the base
unit antenna will be much more sensitive to the client device. Naturally
the stronger radiated power the better, but a sensitive antenna will
gather more signal and so it does in fact, help in both directions.

Ted

Thanks Ted. This one is doing a good job and one will do it

Glenn Beasley