'66 Mustang drum -> power front disc conversion

I'm planning to convert my '66 Mustang to power-assist front disc
brakes. Here's the link to the parts for the mod, from Mustang Depot of
Las Vegas:

http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCa...SSBC/a120d.htm

Is this a good mod? Is the price ($1029) reasonable? Is Mustang Depot
reputable? (Their tech guy I talked to seemed very straightforward and
helpful.) How much time should a competent mechanic (not me) require?

--
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.

SSBC is good... so is Baer, which you might want to check out before
deciding. There are one or two more companies with conversions that
are in the same ballpark. Front disc is very much worth the
conversion. The rear less so. You can actually do the fronts now, and
later on do the rear.

I think it's Baer who has an essentially bold in dual reservoir, power
assist which requires no pedal alteration.

Price is well in the general ball park for the conversion.

You might, just for the heck of it, call someone like Mustangs Plus or
Summit (sorry I don't have the numbers handy) and compare what they
say against what the sales rep already told you.... and compare prices
at the same time.

On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 20:14:08 GMT, rw >
wrote:

>I'm planning to convert my '66 Mustang to power-assist front disc
>brakes. Here's the link to the parts for the mod, from Mustang Depot of
>Las Vegas:
>
>http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCa...SSBC/a120d.htm
>
>Is this a good mod? Is the price ($1029) reasonable? Is Mustang Depot
>reputable? (Their tech guy I talked to seemed very straightforward and
>helpful.) How much time should a competent mechanic (not me) require?

Hey! Spikey Likes IT!
1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok
Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior
Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8"
w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16

Dinsdale wrote:
> On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 20:14:08 GMT, rw >
> wrote:
>
>
>>I'm planning to convert my '66 Mustang to power-assist front disc
>>brakes. Here's the link to the parts for the mod, from Mustang Depot of
>>Las Vegas:
>>
>>http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCa...SSBC/a120d.htm
>>
>>Is this a good mod? Is the price ($1029) reasonable? Is Mustang Depot
>>reputable? (Their tech guy I talked to seemed very straightforward and
>>helpful.) How much time should a competent mechanic (not me) require?
>
>
>
> I have a 14 yr-old SSBC non-power front disc conversion ($795 back
> then) and it's been great. The braking difference between drums is
> amazing, especially the (comparative) lack of fade. The pistons
> looked brand new on an inspection two years ago ... it was in partial
> storage, driven just a few times a year.
> I put the kit went together in an afternoon with only hand tools and a
> floor jack. A professional shop should get the calipers and rotors on
> in an hour.
> The conversion from single reservoir master cylinder to dual reservoir
> could add some hours depending on the state of your existing lines and
> if any new lines need to be fabricated. Also, adding a power booster
> AND dual reservoir master cylinder is not the simplest thing in a
> '65-'66. There are a few conversions I've seen that could take the
> better part of a day just for the master cylinder. I haven't seen the
> exact kit you're contemplating so that might not be a big deal if it
> has been designed well.

The kit comes with a dual master cylinder and, supposedly, all the
necessary hardware.

> In fact, I'd like to do a power brake conversion, so, if you get the
> kit, I'd be interested in your opinion of its fitment... some pics of
> it installed would be nice too. (Don't post them here)

Will do.

> Something to be prepared for are rusted fittings and stripped nuts.
> Those could be expensive labor-wise.
>
> Check out the hard lines from the master cylinder to the wheels. If
> they're dented or badly rusted look into getting repro, pre-bent lines
> before you have the disc brake kit installed. Actually, if the brakes
> haven't been serviced in a really long time they might be corroded on
> the inside and new lines might be a good call anyway.

I've checked those lines out. It looks like they're in good condition,
and probably have been replaced.

> Hope that helps

It does.

BTW, my wife bought this car off a used car lot, and the owner said he
bought it at an auction. It's in really cherry pure-stock condition. I
found a garage door opener in the glove compartment, so I figure it was
a repo. :-)

Poor guy. This must have been his baby.

--
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.

rw wrote:
> I'm planning to convert my '66 Mustang to power-assist front disc
> brakes. Here's the link to the parts for the mod, from Mustang Depot of
> Las Vegas:
>
> http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCa...SSBC/a120d.htm
>
> Is this a good mod? Is the price ($1029) reasonable? Is Mustang Depot
> reputable? (Their tech guy I talked to seemed very straightforward and
> helpful.) How much time should a competent mechanic (not me) require?
>
Funny you should ask. I called Mustangs Plus this afternoon and
ordered the kit. This week there's an unadvertised special, $50 off
each order over $200. That makes it just a little cheaper than Mustang
Depot, by about $20.
Anyway, the SSBC kit is probably one of the best values around for
a street car. Baer Brakes makes a pretty good kit, but you can't use
the stock 14" wheels, and they are a little more expensive. Baer is
more for racing than simple street driving.
It comes with a dual MC, so you have to do a little plumbing. If
you look on the inner fender, just a little behind the booster, you'll
see the '66 distribution block. I can see that's going to be a problem.
There's one line going in, and three lines going out. I'm not really
sure how I'm going to work that. But I'm thinking of a T connection for
the front lines, placing the adjustable valve there for the rear, and
fabricating new lines between there and the MC.
The MC is supposed to just drop in to place where the original one
is now. We'll see. I think that will be the hardest part of the
whole job.

I'm also installing the Flaming River R&P steering kit at the same
time. So I spent tonight ripping out all that nasty P/S gear from
underneath. What a mess. Tomorrow I'll take out the P/S pump, gear box
and column. That should make the MC job a little easier.

Now repeat after me: "There's no such thing as bolt on. There's
no such thing as bolt on. There's no such thing......."

--
..boB
1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged!
2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92
1983 GMC Jimmy - Mountain Beater
1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver
1966 FFR Cobra - Ongoing project

I believe Baer now carries for oem stock wheel sizes. Seems I read
they have a new kit, which handles up to 16", then they have the kit
they have carried for larger wheel sizes. And using original spindles.
Might have to verify this, but I believe it was covered in this months
Mustang Monthly or Mustang and Fords.

On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 21:28:10 -0700, boB >
wrote:

>rw wrote:
>> I'm planning to convert my '66 Mustang to power-assist front disc
>> brakes. Here's the link to the parts for the mod, from Mustang Depot of
>> Las Vegas:
>>
>> http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCa...SSBC/a120d.htm
>>
>> Is this a good mod? Is the price ($1029) reasonable? Is Mustang Depot
>> reputable? (Their tech guy I talked to seemed very straightforward and
>> helpful.) How much time should a competent mechanic (not me) require?
>>
> Funny you should ask. I called Mustangs Plus this afternoon and
>ordered the kit. This week there's an unadvertised special, $50 off
>each order over $200. That makes it just a little cheaper than Mustang
>Depot, by about $20.
> Anyway, the SSBC kit is probably one of the best values around for
>a street car. Baer Brakes makes a pretty good kit, but you can't use
>the stock 14" wheels, and they are a little more expensive. Baer is
>more for racing than simple street driving.
> It comes with a dual MC, so you have to do a little plumbing. If
>you look on the inner fender, just a little behind the booster, you'll
>see the '66 distribution block. I can see that's going to be a problem.
> There's one line going in, and three lines going out. I'm not really
>sure how I'm going to work that. But I'm thinking of a T connection for
>the front lines, placing the adjustable valve there for the rear, and
>fabricating new lines between there and the MC.
> The MC is supposed to just drop in to place where the original one
>is now. We'll see. I think that will be the hardest part of the
>whole job.
>
> I'm also installing the Flaming River R&P steering kit at the same
>time. So I spent tonight ripping out all that nasty P/S gear from
>underneath. What a mess. Tomorrow I'll take out the P/S pump, gear box
>and column. That should make the MC job a little easier.
>
> Now repeat after me: "There's no such thing as bolt on. There's
>no such thing as bolt on. There's no such thing......."

Hey! Spikey Likes IT!
1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok
Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior
Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8"
w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16

boB > wrote

> Anyway, the SSBC kit is probably one of the best values around for
> a street car.

I put a Trans Am Racing conversion kit on my kids' '65 Mustang a
couple years back. Back then it was the only kit a dual reservoir MC
and a power booster for a '65-'66. The problem is the distance
between the firewall and the shock tower. Now there seem to be many
kits with boosters that will fit.

> It comes with a dual MC, so you have to do a little plumbing. If
> you look on the inner fender, just a little behind the booster, you'll
> see the '66 distribution block. I can see that's going to be a problem.
> There's one line going in, and three lines going out. I'm not really
> sure how I'm going to work that. But I'm thinking of a T connection for
> the front lines, placing the adjustable valve there for the rear, and
> fabricating new lines between there and the MC.

I started with 4-wheel drums and an unassisted single reservoir MC.
What I did was use the existing distribution block for the front
brakes, putting a pipe plug into the hole for the rears. The rears
then go through a proportioning valve, then back into the existing
line. I mounted the prop valve on the fender apron, but it's kind of
hard to reach. I used at least one of the pre-bent lines that came
with the kit, and had to bend at least one line that I got from
Kragen's. (Buy three, then take back the ones you don't screw up.)

One other tip you won't be sorry to have done: while you have all
this stuff out of the way, fabricate a brace to run from the firewall
just beneath the MC to the shock tower. My kids' car has a very
noticeable firewall flex when braking, a quarter to a half inch of
movement. This causes a very mushy pedal. What I have in mind is a
hairpin with two legs attached to the firewall and one leg attached to
the shocktower.

> The MC is supposed to just drop in to place where the original one
> is now. We'll see. I think that will be the hardest part of the
> whole job.

The booster's mounting studs may or may not match the holes in your
pedal assembly. I had to run a drill through the captured nuts on
mine. You will also need several extensions and a U-joint to get a
socket on the nuts under the dash.

Good luck. And also don't forget to break in the new brakes
properly. They work very poorly when they're brand new. The advice
I've seen is a 30/30/30 rule: run up to 30 miles per hour, brake to a
stop, wait 30 seconds, do it again, 30 times.

180 Out
TS 28

I have done several and was too poor to buy a nice kit like the one from
your link. Looking at the photograph everything is included to do the
mod. And, I will say your brakes will be awsome after you are done. Be
sure to use Ford High Performance Brake Fluid and bleed all the bubbles
out of the system and your car will rock. Oh, I took me a day to
complete the install and that included cleaning up the old parts that I
used from a doner car. So, with new and clean stuff you should do much
better. It pays to have power tools since some of the goodies are a bit
tight...

rw wrote:

> I'm planning to convert my '66 Mustang to power-assist front disc
> brakes. Here's the link to the parts for the mod, from Mustang Depot of
> Las Vegas:
>
> http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCa...SSBC/a120d.htm
>
> Is this a good mod? Is the price ($1029) reasonable? Is Mustang Depot
> reputable? (Their tech guy I talked to seemed very straightforward and
> helpful.) How much time should a competent mechanic (not me) require?
>

Hey guys,
I'd like to do this to my '66 also, but why is there no power kit
for a manual trans? What part of the stick tranny is in the way, the
clutch cable maybe?

MajCrash wrote:
> Hey guys,
> I'd like to do this to my '66 also, but why is there no power kit
> for a manual trans? What part of the stick tranny is in the way, the
> clutch cable maybe?

I think it's the clutch.

--
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.

Dinsdale wrote:
> On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 20:14:08 GMT, rw >
> wrote:
>
>
>>I'm planning to convert my '66 Mustang to power-assist front disc
>>brakes. Here's the link to the parts for the mod, from Mustang Depot of
>>Las Vegas:
>>
>>http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCa...SSBC/a120d.htm
>>
>>Is this a good mod? Is the price ($1029) reasonable? Is Mustang Depot
>>reputable? (Their tech guy I talked to seemed very straightforward and
>>helpful.) How much time should a competent mechanic (not me) require?
>
>
>
> I have a 14 yr-old SSBC non-power front disc conversion ($795 back
> then) and it's been great. The braking difference between drums is
> amazing, especially the (comparative) lack of fade. The pistons
> looked brand new on an inspection two years ago ... it was in partial
> storage, driven just a few times a year.
> I put the kit went together in an afternoon with only hand tools and a
> floor jack. A professional shop should get the calipers and rotors on
> in an hour.

I had this very same experience. I converted my 67 with a 4-piston SSB
kit in ... 1995 I think. No power booster is needed; the
tow-truck-sized pads on the big 4-piston calipers creates enough
efficiency that the pedal is a little stiff, but the difference in sheer
braking power and modulation (very important, how usable and
controllable is that "braking power" throughout the range) was amazing.

Be -sure- to put the proportioning valve in line to the rear drums. The
stock 4-wheel-drum distribution block allocates too much pressure to the
rears, and can cause early rear lockup under hard braking. Needless to
say, this is a safety concern. You can swap ends in a hurry. The
adjustable proportioning valve that comes with the kit is a quality
unit. Start with where it's set, then change the settings a little bit
at a time to your liking.

Once I got comfortable with the system, and had replaced all lines,
hoses, did a full rebuild of the rear drums, drove it around a while and
checked for leaks, I put it to the test. 80 mph to zero @ impending
lockup produced a very strong, sure (and straight) stop with almost no
fade, except a little at the end. The rotors in this kit are also big
and meaty. That kit was the best $800 I ever spent to increase the
performance of my car. If it's $1100 now, it's still worth it. These
were OEM Shelby GT parts.

Dinsdale alluded to this, and while you're at it, do the hoses and all
the lines, rear drums, shoes, rear adjusters, springs, and everything
else you need while you're at it. It makes a world of difference. In
two days it will feel like a new car.

So many people spend 5 grand on the motor and don't upgrade the brakes.
In top form, the 4 wheel drums are merely adequate for most stock SB
Fords of the era, which typically put out a modest 125-175 RWHP. (!)

IMO, you won't go wrong with the SSB kit. Install time for me was about
4 hours with hand tools and jackstands, including putting in new,
re-packed bearings with Marine grease. Everything just dropped in.

My idiocy... the bleeder valves go on the top. The 4-piston calipers
WILL interchange side to side (found out the hard way).

(SNIPPED CONTENT)

Best of luck

--
Wound Up

1967 Mustang coupe, restored & modified

Remove "put her" to reply in that bucket