crank bolt left or right hand thread??

Elle wrote:
> "Earle Horton" > wrote
>
>>"jim beam" > wrote
>>
>>>Ivan wrote:
>>>
>>>>you probably have to get some heat
>>>>to go some part store and use MPS gas
>>>>they come in small bottles like for propane they use
>>>>for the pumping
>>>>but it is a yellow colour can
>>>>
>>>>or just use oxy and acle if you gots ..
>>>>remeber heat it up then let it cool down on its own for
>>>>like 15 mins
>>>>then try it
>>>>FunkyKev wrote:
>>>
>>>don't do that! you'll ruin seals, the belt [if you're
>>>not replacing it]
>>>and possibly even the temper of the steel. not good.
>>>the bolt comes
>>>off with the right tools, namely air tools, or if using
>>>hand tools, the
>>>correct pulley wheel holder and a 3/4" socket set.
>>>[ordinary 1/2" sets
>>>flex too much.]
>>
>>The long Craftsman 1/2" flex handle will do it. Agreed on
>>the seals. Don't
>>heat anything up unless you want to wreck stuff.
>
>
> Right, bigger is often better but also not essential nor
> economical. A 1/2-inch drive set worked fine for my 91
> Civic. The 3/4-inch drive set of tools will set a person
> back around $75 or more. (Two 8-inch long, 3/4-inch drive
> extensions by themselves will run over $50.) Plus, the only
> place that has a good stock of 3/4-inch drive tools is
> Sears.

napa, of which there are a large number here in ca, carry a full line of
3/4" tools. and they usually have much more stock than my local sears.

> Harbor Freight, Pep Boys, Home Depot and the like do
> not carry much, if any, of this size drive.
>
> Of course, if one jumps up and down on the end of the
> breaker bar or its extension, as a certain person here is
> reported to have done, then all bets are off as to the
> safety of the tools, the crankshaft pulley, and the person.

indeed.

>
> Use a long extension to get the torque with as little force
> as possible applied to the end.

i've lightened up my view on using an axle stand as a fulcrum. i still
think that when doing this job with the 1/2" tools, it's /way/ too
dangerous because there's *huge* elastic distortion before the bolt
gives. but with the 3/4" tool however, the wind-up is essentially zero
and the bolt just unscrews. in that situation, the use of a fulcrum,
while not ideal, is quite benign.

>
> Lastly, arranging with one's favorite local mechanic to
> break the bolt free with an industrial strength impact
> wrench for the measly sum of say $15 is often the preferred
> quick fix here.

kinda, but i swear, with less than 30 miles between swapping out a water
pump [pulley bolt], and determining the engine was good enough to do the
rest of the job properly [pulley bolt] on my crx, that sucker was full
tight and easily over 300 ft.lbs again. if you have someone break the
bolt for you, drive /slow/ and keep it close to home.

Elle wrote:

<snip>

> Right, bigger is often better but also not essential nor
> economical. A 1/2-inch drive set worked fine for my 91
> Civic. The 3/4-inch drive set of tools will set a person
> back around $75 or more. (Two 8-inch long, 3/4-inch drive
> extensions by themselves will run over $50.) Plus, the only
> place that has a good stock of 3/4-inch drive tools is
> Sears. Harbor Freight, Pep Boys, Home Depot and the like do
> not carry much, if any, of this size drive.

Snap-On, of course, has them;

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/catal...e=snapon-store

but you're right, they're expensive as hell

"Sparky Spartacus" > wrote
> Elle wrote:
>
> <snip>
>
>> Right, bigger is often better but also not essential nor
>> economical. A 1/2-inch drive set worked fine for my 91
>> Civic. The 3/4-inch drive set of tools will set a person
>> back around $75 or more. (Two 8-inch long, 3/4-inch drive
>> extensions by themselves will run over $50.) Plus, the
>> only place that has a good stock of 3/4-inch drive tools
>> is Sears. Harbor Freight, Pep Boys, Home Depot and the
>> like do not carry much, if any, of this size drive.
>
> Snap-On, of course, has them;
>
> http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/catal...e=snapon-store
>
> but you're right, they're expensive as hell

I imagine Napa Auto Parts has them through special order as
well.

Elle wrote:
> "Sparky Spartacus" > wrote
>
>>Elle wrote:
>>
>><snip>
>>
>>>Right, bigger is often better but also not essential nor
>>>economical. A 1/2-inch drive set worked fine for my 91
>>>Civic. The 3/4-inch drive set of tools will set a person
>>>back around $75 or more. (Two 8-inch long, 3/4-inch drive
>>>extensions by themselves will run over $50.) Plus, the
>>>only place that has a good stock of 3/4-inch drive tools
>>>is Sears. Harbor Freight, Pep Boys, Home Depot and the
>>>like do not carry much, if any, of this size drive.
>>
>>Snap-On, of course, has them;
>>
>>http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/catal...e=snapon-store
>>
>>but you're right, they're expensive as hell
>
>
> I imagine Napa Auto Parts has them through special order as
> well.

they're all laid out and in stock at any napa store.

Jim:
How big of an impact wrench would one need - can you give an idea in
foot pounds of torque - or would most 1/2" and any 3/4" impact do the
job?

butch burton wrote:
> Jim:
> How big of an impact wrench would one need - can you give an idea in
> foot pounds of torque - or would most 1/2" and any 3/4" impact do the
> job?
>
well, i agree with estimates of release torque at about 300ft.lbs, so
most 1/2" air impact wrenches should shift that. assuming there's
sufficient air of course - a small compressor won't allow the impact to
make rated torque.

"jim beam" > wrote in message
news
> Earle Horton wrote:
> > "jim beam" > wrote in message
> > ...
> >
> >>Ivan wrote:
> >>
> >>>you probably have to get some heat
> >>>to go some part store and use MPS gas
> >>>they come in small bottles like for propane they use for the pumping
> >>>but it is a yellow colour can
> >>>
> >>>or just use oxy and acle if you gots ..
> >>>remeber heat it up then let it cool down on its own for like 15 mins
> >>>then try it
> >>>FunkyKev wrote:
> >>
> >>don't do that! you'll ruin seals, the belt [if you're not replacing it]
> >>and possibly even the temper of the steel. not good. the bolt comes
> >>off with the right tools, namely air tools, or if using hand tools, the
> >>correct pulley wheel holder and a 3/4" socket set. [ordinary 1/2" sets
> >>flex too much.]
> >
> >
> > The long Craftsman 1/2" flex handle will do it.
>
> in terms of sheer force, sure. but it's much safer to go the 3/4"
> route. there's almost /no/ wind-up, so when the bolt lets go, it just
> unscrews rather than suddenly dissipating all that stored elastic energy
> from the tool in potentially destructive ways such as slipping,
> cracking, etc. sure, the tools cost a little more than just struggling
> with your existing tool set, but:
>
> 1. they're guaranteed to work. yes, a sears breaker bar is guaranteed
> in replacement in the event that it fails, but that's just the issue,
> it's not 100% certain to shift the bolt and it might fail. the 3/4"
> absolutely won't. trust me on that one.
>
> 2. the 3/4" stuff is still a good deal cheaper than buying air tools or
> even an electric impact wrench [that may hot have sufficient torque].
>
> 3. once you have it, you'll be surprised how often you go back to it!

You don't think it's possible to hurt yourself with a 3/4" breaker bar?

Earle
>
> > Agreed on the seals. Don't
> > heat anything up unless you want to wreck stuff.
> >
> > Earle
> >
> >>
> >>
> >>>>Someone once told me thre was only 1 or 2 reverse threads on hondas.
> >>>>one of which is somewhere in the steering pump i think. but i have no
> >>>>idea. Crank should be standard thread. It's just a SOB to lock the
> >>>>pulley down and get enough leverage to break it.
> >>>>
> >>>>KL
> >>>>Elle wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>"Earle Horton" > wrote
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>"swhaley" > wrote
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>>new to honda
> >>>>>>>thanks for help
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>SW
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>Right. Which vehicle?
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>http://www.thehondapartsstore.com/faq.htm#crankbolt
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Whoa. Tegger's site has gone commercial.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Either that or someone's copyrights are being ethically
> >>>>>violated.
> >>>
> >>>
> >
> >
> >
> >




--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

"jim beam" > wrote
Earle
>> > The long Craftsman 1/2" flex handle will do it.

>> in terms of sheer force, sure. but it's much safer to go
>> the 3/4"
>> route. there's almost /no/ wind-up,

About a fifth of the windup, to be exact. So where the
1/2-inch drive will give around 45 degrees of windup (give
or take, and at the torques we're talking about), the
3/4-inch will give about 9 degrees.

But that's nothing. Buy a 1-inch drive set, and you get
about 1/16th the windup, or only about 3 degrees. The 1-inch
drive setup is extraordinarily safe. It may cost you $200
all told, but you'll be safe.

>> so when the bolt lets go, it just
>> unscrews rather than suddenly dissipating all that stored
>> elastic energy
>> from the tool in potentially destructive ways such as
>> slipping,
>> cracking, etc.

It's much safer not to do any of one's own work on a car as
well.

Your suggestion is overkill. Just like your overhyping of
that $100+ Honda ball joint separator when a $20 tool (or
arguably a large hammer, for the more experienced) will work
fine. Just like your hysteria over people who use hood pins,
because a cyclist might end up on the hood.

> sure, the tools cost a little more than just struggling
>> with your existing tool set, but:
>>
>> 1. they're guaranteed to work. yes, a sears breaker bar
>> is guaranteed
>> in replacement in the event that it fails, but that's
>> just the issue,
>> it's not 100% certain to shift the bolt and it might
>> fail. the 3/4"
>> absolutely won't. trust me on that one.

Unless you've been misusing tools and jumping up and down
again on the end of one of those 1/2-inch breaker bars, the
reports of their breaking for this application have to be
far and few between, if any. I have never seen any.

Maybe because you indulge your habit of breaking pulley
bolts free at local junkyards, you prefer the 3/4-inch drive
set.

"Elle" > wrote in message
k.net...
---snippy---
>
> Your suggestion is overkill. Just like your overhyping of
> that $100+ Honda ball joint separator when a $20 tool (or
> arguably a large hammer, for the more experienced) will work
> fine. Just like your hysteria over people who use hood pins,
> because a cyclist might end up on the hood.
>
You mentioned hood pins.

http://earlehorton.tripod.com/Hoodpins/Hoodpins_00.jpg
http://earlehorton.tripod.com/Hoodpins/Hoodpins.jpg

Earle



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

"Earle Horton" > wrote
> "Elle" > wrote
>> Your suggestion is overkill. Just like your overhyping of
>> that $100+ Honda ball joint separator when a $20 tool (or
>> arguably a large hammer, for the more experienced) will
>> work
>> fine. Just like your hysteria over people who use hood
>> pins,
>> because a cyclist might end up on the hood.
>>
> You mentioned hood pins.
>
> http://earlehorton.tripod.com/Hoodpins/Hoodpins_00.jpg
> http://earlehorton.tripod.com/Hoodpins/Hoodpins.jpg

I don't know why so many people say men are less artistic
than women. I think they just need the right "canvas."

Jackson Pollock, look out.