Water pump or timing belt problems with ATQ V6 30V Engine?

I have a 2001 Passat V6 30V Passat (ATQ engine) with about 65k miles.
I have read elswhere about water pump problems (plastic impeller) with
this engine but I do not know if the problem was resolved before my
engine was built or if the problem was resolved at all. My car is an
Auto and is not driven hard; it is currently running like new.

My questions a

- Have any of you experienced water pump failure with this engine?
after how many miles?
- Is a timing belt replacement required by 60k. (The VW documentation
has some conflicts in this area)
- is it likely that I could experience a 'early' water pump failure
that would ultimately damage the engine as others have suggested?

For example, i found this on vw.com website today:

"Timing Belt replace - Recommended replacement at 40,000 miles (64,000
km) and 80,000 miles (128,000 km)" in regards to this model year and
engine.

However, the chart on the same vw.com page only shows to check the
timing belt at 40k miles. Also my owner's manual only specifies to
check the timing belt at 40k intervals but I am not sure what exactly
to check for.

My thinking is that the most conservative thing to do would be to
replace the timing belt, water pump, possibly idlers and the coolant as
PM but this much service this soon seems excessive and expensive.

any thoughts?

Thanks in advance!

"Mark" > wrote in message
oups.com...
>I have a 2001 Passat V6 30V Passat (ATQ engine) with about 65k miles.
> I have read elswhere about water pump problems (plastic impeller) with
> this engine but I do not know if the problem was resolved before my
> engine was built or if the problem was resolved at all. My car is an
> Auto and is not driven hard; it is currently running like new.
>
> My questions a
>
> - Have any of you experienced water pump failure with this engine?
> after how many miles?
> - Is a timing belt replacement required by 60k. (The VW documentation
> has some conflicts in this area)
> - is it likely that I could experience a 'early' water pump failure
> that would ultimately damage the engine as others have suggested?
>
> For example, i found this on vw.com website today:
>
> "Timing Belt replace - Recommended replacement at 40,000 miles (64,000
> km) and 80,000 miles (128,000 km)" in regards to this model year and
> engine.
>
> However, the chart on the same vw.com page only shows to check the
> timing belt at 40k miles. Also my owner's manual only specifies to
> check the timing belt at 40k intervals but I am not sure what exactly
> to check for.
>
> My thinking is that the most conservative thing to do would be to
> replace the timing belt, water pump, possibly idlers and the coolant as
> PM but this much service this soon seems excessive and expensive.
>
> any thoughts?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>

Inspection.......what do you look for, it could appear OK but then break the
next day.

As for me, Audi V6 30V Auto and like you careful driving with 61K miles. I
had the lot changed, belts, idlers, water pump etc. While they are in there
they might as well be done..........cost £550. 1 days work.

Funny thing the Audi dealership said 40K miles or 80K miles so I hit midway.

- Have any of you experienced water pump failure with this engine?

First owner then 10yr/100k warranty. It's not a common problem as most say
it is. I haven't really don't that many in the last year to consider the
water-pump as a common failure. We service over 100 VW's a week and I would
say I have replaced maybe 2 in the last year. As for replacement VW service
states 105,000miles here in the USA. But my personal 99 GLX 2.8 Passat has a
sticker under the hood which states 75k miles. This sticker isn't present on
later years, but I ca tell you when mine gets replaced along with the
waterpump and rollers. YEP... 75k miles. It's best to talk to your local
dealer as they can best recommend when to replace stuff as climate has some
to do with it. Smog & Ozone & heat, etc can and is rough on rubber parts!

Remember the only owner who complaints is the one who's belt or WP fails.




"Mark" > wrote in message
oups.com...
>I have a 2001 Passat V6 30V Passat (ATQ engine) with about 65k miles.
> I have read elswhere about water pump problems (plastic impeller) with
> this engine but I do not know if the problem was resolved before my
> engine was built or if the problem was resolved at all. My car is an
> Auto and is not driven hard; it is currently running like new.
>
> My questions a
>
> - Have any of you experienced water pump failure with this engine?
> after how many miles?
> - Is a timing belt replacement required by 60k. (The VW documentation
> has some conflicts in this area)
> - is it likely that I could experience a 'early' water pump failure
> that would ultimately damage the engine as others have suggested?
>
> For example, i found this on vw.com website today:
>
> "Timing Belt replace - Recommended replacement at 40,000 miles (64,000
> km) and 80,000 miles (128,000 km)" in regards to this model year and
> engine.
>
> However, the chart on the same vw.com page only shows to check the
> timing belt at 40k miles. Also my owner's manual only specifies to
> check the timing belt at 40k intervals but I am not sure what exactly
> to check for.
>
> My thinking is that the most conservative thing to do would be to
> replace the timing belt, water pump, possibly idlers and the coolant as
> PM but this much service this soon seems excessive and expensive.
>
> any thoughts?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>

Unfortunately, I am not the original owner. I bought it used/certified
and that warranty is expired. The car is in wisconsin so excess heat
should not be a problem and as I mentioned I do not drive the car hard.
The roughest duty is probably the stop and go traffic in the summer.

In any case, my concern is over the variation in VW's recommendations..
even having conflicts within one single document (the maintenance
schedule on their website). The variation was one more piece of
evidence of a special reliability/design isse.

I will not replace these parts now at 65k unless there is a very
compelling reason to. I would then revisit the question at 75k. I
will try to do an inspection of the belt though because that is free.


Lost In Space/Woodchuck wrote:
> - Have any of you experienced water pump failure with this engine?
>
> First owner then 10yr/100k warranty. It's not a common problem as most say
> it is. I haven't really don't that many in the last year to consider the
> water-pump as a common failure. We service over 100 VW's a week and I would
> say I have replaced maybe 2 in the last year. As for replacement VW service
> states 105,000miles here in the USA. But my personal 99 GLX 2.8 Passat has a
> sticker under the hood which states 75k miles. This sticker isn't present on
> later years, but I ca tell you when mine gets replaced along with the
> waterpump and rollers. YEP... 75k miles. It's best to talk to your local
> dealer as they can best recommend when to replace stuff as climate has some
> to do with it. Smog & Ozone & heat, etc can and is rough on rubber parts!
>
> Remember the only owner who complaints is the one who's belt or WP fails.
>
>
>
>
> "Mark" > wrote in message
> oups.com...
> >I have a 2001 Passat V6 30V Passat (ATQ engine) with about 65k miles.
> > I have read elswhere about water pump problems (plastic impeller) with
> > this engine but I do not know if the problem was resolved before my
> > engine was built or if the problem was resolved at all. My car is an
> > Auto and is not driven hard; it is currently running like new.
> >
> > My questions a
> >
> > - Have any of you experienced water pump failure with this engine?
> > after how many miles?
> > - Is a timing belt replacement required by 60k. (The VW documentation
> > has some conflicts in this area)
> > - is it likely that I could experience a 'early' water pump failure
> > that would ultimately damage the engine as others have suggested?
> >
> > For example, i found this on vw.com website today:
> >
> > "Timing Belt replace - Recommended replacement at 40,000 miles (64,000
> > km) and 80,000 miles (128,000 km)" in regards to this model year and
> > engine.
> >
> > However, the chart on the same vw.com page only shows to check the
> > timing belt at 40k miles. Also my owner's manual only specifies to
> > check the timing belt at 40k intervals but I am not sure what exactly
> > to check for.
> >
> > My thinking is that the most conservative thing to do would be to
> > replace the timing belt, water pump, possibly idlers and the coolant as
> > PM but this much service this soon seems excessive and expensive.
> >
> > any thoughts?
> >
> > Thanks in advance!
> >

In article .com>,
Mark > wrote:
>
>Unfortunately, I am not the original owner. I bought it used/certified
>and that warranty is expired. The car is in wisconsin so excess heat
>should not be a problem and as I mentioned I do not drive the car hard.
> The roughest duty is probably the stop and go traffic in the summer.

V6 VW engine IMHO runs hotter than the 4cyl engines VW makes.
These engines will probably never see 200K miles of use compared to the
4cyl VW engine. This is JMO. Therefore, they don't interest me. The VR6
is also a hot running engine but has been around longer. VR6s have seen
some high miles from what I have read but I haven't seen an old VR6
on the road lately. Every once in a while you see one around and lots
of old A2s, even rabbits from time to time.

However, my Jeep I6 4.0L engine in my YJ is now at 204000 miles and still
going strong. These engines remind me of the old slant six Dodge dart engines
that used to never die back in the old days when I was still tiny. The
inline engines seem to be more reliable IMHO. V engines never seem to reach
that 150K mile mark too often let alone 200K miles.

Of course, I swapped out the old ratty falling apart aluminum radiator with
a three core metal one. I also change the water pump on my Jeep and all of
the hoses including a new thermostat at 189000 miles. That is when I bought
the Jeep for next to nothing. I was at the right place at the right time. The
PO was trading it to get a new vehicle. The stealer low balled the trade in
value and I just offered him $100 more. Done deal.

>In any case, my concern is over the variation in VW's recommendations..
>even having conflicts within one single document (the maintenance
>schedule on their website). The variation was one more piece of
>evidence of a special reliability/design isse.

No idea why VW has such bad documentation. However, this isn't going to help
you in any court battle, so you might as well figure it out and make your
own maitenance schedule documents for your specific vehicle. Foreign OEMs
tend to try to make an all in one document or manual to save on the translation
and document expenses. Look at the Bentley manual. My Jeep manual is thicker
than any of my Bentley manuals and it is only made for my year model.

>I will not replace these parts now at 65k unless there is a very
>compelling reason to. I would then revisit the question at 75k. I
>will try to do an inspection of the belt though because that is free.

And holding your breath until you turn blue doesn't matter either until
you have a problem. You might as well budget some monies for future jobs. You
know, you don't have to go to the dealer to get the maintenance done. Any
good independant VW shop can do it or you can join a VW club and learn to
DIY. The bad thing about VWs is that surprise cost of something going wrong
and you have to fork out lots of unnessasary cash that could have been avoided
by keeping your coolant flushed every 2 years and all the other DIY goodies
that come with owning a vehicle.

--
Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...

Run hotter... don't think so since the thermostats have all the same degree
opening. Which is about 195*F

"Peter Parker" > wrote in message
...
> In article .com>,
> Mark > wrote:
>>
>>Unfortunately, I am not the original owner. I bought it used/certified
>>and that warranty is expired. The car is in wisconsin so excess heat
>>should not be a problem and as I mentioned I do not drive the car hard.
>> The roughest duty is probably the stop and go traffic in the summer.
>
> V6 VW engine IMHO runs hotter than the 4cyl engines VW makes.
> These engines will probably never see 200K miles of use compared to the
> 4cyl VW engine. This is JMO. Therefore, they don't interest me. The VR6
> is also a hot running engine but has been around longer. VR6s have seen
> some high miles from what I have read but I haven't seen an old VR6
> on the road lately. Every once in a while you see one around and lots
> of old A2s, even rabbits from time to time.
>
> However, my Jeep I6 4.0L engine in my YJ is now at 204000 miles and still
> going strong. These engines remind me of the old slant six Dodge dart
> engines
> that used to never die back in the old days when I was still tiny. The
> inline engines seem to be more reliable IMHO. V engines never seem to
> reach
> that 150K mile mark too often let alone 200K miles.
>
> Of course, I swapped out the old ratty falling apart aluminum radiator
> with
> a three core metal one. I also change the water pump on my Jeep and all of
> the hoses including a new thermostat at 189000 miles. That is when I
> bought
> the Jeep for next to nothing. I was at the right place at the right time.
> The
> PO was trading it to get a new vehicle. The stealer low balled the trade
> in
> value and I just offered him $100 more. Done deal.
>
>>In any case, my concern is over the variation in VW's recommendations..
>>even having conflicts within one single document (the maintenance
>>schedule on their website). The variation was one more piece of
>>evidence of a special reliability/design isse.
>
> No idea why VW has such bad documentation. However, this isn't going to
> help
> you in any court battle, so you might as well figure it out and make your
> own maitenance schedule documents for your specific vehicle. Foreign OEMs
> tend to try to make an all in one document or manual to save on the
> translation
> and document expenses. Look at the Bentley manual. My Jeep manual is
> thicker
> than any of my Bentley manuals and it is only made for my year model.
>
>>I will not replace these parts now at 65k unless there is a very
>>compelling reason to. I would then revisit the question at 75k. I
>>will try to do an inspection of the belt though because that is free.
>
> And holding your breath until you turn blue doesn't matter either until
> you have a problem. You might as well budget some monies for future jobs.
> You
> know, you don't have to go to the dealer to get the maintenance done. Any
> good independant VW shop can do it or you can join a VW club and learn to
> DIY. The bad thing about VWs is that surprise cost of something going
> wrong
> and you have to fork out lots of unnessasary cash that could have been
> avoided
> by keeping your coolant flushed every 2 years and all the other DIY
> goodies
> that come with owning a vehicle.
>
> --
> Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...

In article >,
Lost In Space/Woodchuck > wrote:
>Run hotter... don't think so since the thermostats have all the same degree
>opening. Which is about 195*F

Sure they do. I don't mean thermostat temp type temperature. I mean the engine
compartment type temp and the surrounding area. These engines are just too
big for the tight compartments that they are in. They are heavier which will
eventually wear out the front end struts faster on Jettas etc. Oh sure, you
can have the 195F temp water but the heat that comes off these babies in
the summer time is enough to knock back the typical 4 cyl owner.
The cars don't handle as well as a 4cyl because of the front end weight. I've
heard many people say that who have driven them.

Yes, the are like a blast furnace after a good drive in the summer time.


>
>"Peter Parker" > wrote in message
...
>> In article .com>,
>> Mark > wrote:
>>>
>>>Unfortunately, I am not the original owner. I bought it used/certified
>>>and that warranty is expired. The car is in wisconsin so excess heat
>>>should not be a problem and as I mentioned I do not drive the car hard.
>>> The roughest duty is probably the stop and go traffic in the summer.
>>
>> V6 VW engine IMHO runs hotter than the 4cyl engines VW makes.
>> These engines will probably never see 200K miles of use compared to the
>> 4cyl VW engine. This is JMO. Therefore, they don't interest me. The VR6
>> is also a hot running engine but has been around longer. VR6s have seen
>> some high miles from what I have read but I haven't seen an old VR6
>> on the road lately. Every once in a while you see one around and lots
>> of old A2s, even rabbits from time to time.
>>
>> However, my Jeep I6 4.0L engine in my YJ is now at 204000 miles and still
>> going strong. These engines remind me of the old slant six Dodge dart
>> engines
>> that used to never die back in the old days when I was still tiny. The
>> inline engines seem to be more reliable IMHO. V engines never seem to
>> reach
>> that 150K mile mark too often let alone 200K miles.
>>
>> Of course, I swapped out the old ratty falling apart aluminum radiator
>> with
>> a three core metal one. I also change the water pump on my Jeep and all of
>> the hoses including a new thermostat at 189000 miles. That is when I
>> bought
>> the Jeep for next to nothing. I was at the right place at the right time.
>> The
>> PO was trading it to get a new vehicle. The stealer low balled the trade
>> in
>> value and I just offered him $100 more. Done deal.
>>
>>>In any case, my concern is over the variation in VW's recommendations..
>>>even having conflicts within one single document (the maintenance
>>>schedule on their website). The variation was one more piece of
>>>evidence of a special reliability/design isse.
>>
>> No idea why VW has such bad documentation. However, this isn't going to
>> help
>> you in any court battle, so you might as well figure it out and make your
>> own maitenance schedule documents for your specific vehicle. Foreign OEMs
>> tend to try to make an all in one document or manual to save on the
>> translation
>> and document expenses. Look at the Bentley manual. My Jeep manual is
>> thicker
>> than any of my Bentley manuals and it is only made for my year model.
>>
>>>I will not replace these parts now at 65k unless there is a very
>>>compelling reason to. I would then revisit the question at 75k. I
>>>will try to do an inspection of the belt though because that is free.
>>
>> And holding your breath until you turn blue doesn't matter either until
>> you have a problem. You might as well budget some monies for future jobs.
>> You
>> know, you don't have to go to the dealer to get the maintenance done. Any
>> good independant VW shop can do it or you can join a VW club and learn to
>> DIY. The bad thing about VWs is that surprise cost of something going
>> wrong
>> and you have to fork out lots of unnessasary cash that could have been
>> avoided
>> by keeping your coolant flushed every 2 years and all the other DIY
>> goodies
>> that come with owning a vehicle.
>>
>> --
>> Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...
>
>


--
Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...

Peter,

do you have this V6 30V (ATQ) engine in one of your vehicles? If so I
am curious to know if you have had temperature related problems. The
only engine-related problem I have had is an oxygen sensor failure in
the heating circuit. I am trying to learn what maintenance is required
so I can keep the car past the 200k limit that you refer to.

thanks in advance!

Peter Parker wrote:
> In article >,
> Lost In Space/Woodchuck > wrote:
> >Run hotter... don't think so since the thermostats have all the same degree
> >opening. Which is about 195*F
>
> Sure they do. I don't mean thermostat temp type temperature. I mean the engine
> compartment type temp and the surrounding area. These engines are just too
> big for the tight compartments that they are in. They are heavier which will
> eventually wear out the front end struts faster on Jettas etc. Oh sure, you
> can have the 195F temp water but the heat that comes off these babies in
> the summer time is enough to knock back the typical 4 cyl owner.
> The cars don't handle as well as a 4cyl because of the front end weight. I've
> heard many people say that who have driven them.
>
> Yes, the are like a blast furnace after a good drive in the summer time.
>
>
> >
> >"Peter Parker" > wrote in message
> ...
> >> In article .com>,
> >> Mark > wrote:
> >>>
> >>>Unfortunately, I am not the original owner. I bought it used/certified
> >>>and that warranty is expired. The car is in wisconsin so excess heat
> >>>should not be a problem and as I mentioned I do not drive the car hard.
> >>> The roughest duty is probably the stop and go traffic in the summer.
> >>
> >> V6 VW engine IMHO runs hotter than the 4cyl engines VW makes.
> >> These engines will probably never see 200K miles of use compared to the
> >> 4cyl VW engine. This is JMO. Therefore, they don't interest me. The VR6
> >> is also a hot running engine but has been around longer. VR6s have seen
> >> some high miles from what I have read but I haven't seen an old VR6
> >> on the road lately. Every once in a while you see one around and lots
> >> of old A2s, even rabbits from time to time.
> >>
> >> However, my Jeep I6 4.0L engine in my YJ is now at 204000 miles and still
> >> going strong. These engines remind me of the old slant six Dodge dart
> >> engines
> >> that used to never die back in the old days when I was still tiny. The
> >> inline engines seem to be more reliable IMHO. V engines never seem to
> >> reach
> >> that 150K mile mark too often let alone 200K miles.
> >>
> >> Of course, I swapped out the old ratty falling apart aluminum radiator
> >> with
> >> a three core metal one. I also change the water pump on my Jeep and all of
> >> the hoses including a new thermostat at 189000 miles. That is when I
> >> bought
> >> the Jeep for next to nothing. I was at the right place at the right time.
> >> The
> >> PO was trading it to get a new vehicle. The stealer low balled the trade
> >> in
> >> value and I just offered him $100 more. Done deal.
> >>
> >>>In any case, my concern is over the variation in VW's recommendations..
> >>>even having conflicts within one single document (the maintenance
> >>>schedule on their website). The variation was one more piece of
> >>>evidence of a special reliability/design isse.
> >>
> >> No idea why VW has such bad documentation. However, this isn't going to
> >> help
> >> you in any court battle, so you might as well figure it out and make your
> >> own maitenance schedule documents for your specific vehicle. Foreign OEMs
> >> tend to try to make an all in one document or manual to save on the
> >> translation
> >> and document expenses. Look at the Bentley manual. My Jeep manual is
> >> thicker
> >> than any of my Bentley manuals and it is only made for my year model.
> >>
> >>>I will not replace these parts now at 65k unless there is a very
> >>>compelling reason to. I would then revisit the question at 75k. I
> >>>will try to do an inspection of the belt though because that is free.
> >>
> >> And holding your breath until you turn blue doesn't matter either until
> >> you have a problem. You might as well budget some monies for future jobs.
> >> You
> >> know, you don't have to go to the dealer to get the maintenance done. Any
> >> good independant VW shop can do it or you can join a VW club and learn to
> >> DIY. The bad thing about VWs is that surprise cost of something going
> >> wrong
> >> and you have to fork out lots of unnessasary cash that could have been
> >> avoided
> >> by keeping your coolant flushed every 2 years and all the other DIY
> >> goodies
> >> that come with owning a vehicle.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...