Cooling system stop leak, best?

What water cooling system stop leak do you consider best? I have tried
the one with little silver or copper shavings in clear liquid. It
didn't work. Then I tried the Barrs stop leak. Comes in silver bottle
but it makes the radiator fluid look very brown.
Several older men sai hat using about a tablespoon of ground black
pepper works.

J J > wrote:
>What water cooling system stop leak do you consider best? I have tried
>the one with little silver or copper shavings in clear liquid. It
>didn't work. Then I tried the Barrs stop leak. Comes in silver bottle
>but it makes the radiator fluid look very brown.

Stop Leak is a sort of temporary measure that you use to get a little bit
of time out of a radiator before it finally blows.

The Barr's seems to be just fine. It will work well enough to get you
home.

>Several older men sai hat using about a tablespoon of ground black
>pepper works.

If Barr's doesn't work, black pepper won't be any better. Where is it
leaking from?
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

I have used black pepper with success as a temporary fix when way back
in the bush, but if the good stuff won't stop the leak, pepper isn't any
better.

Where is it leaking from? The stop leak products won't usually fix
o-rings or hoses or gaskets or pumps....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

J J wrote:
>
> What water cooling system stop leak do you consider best? I have tried
> the one with little silver or copper shavings in clear liquid. It
> didn't work. Then I tried the Barrs stop leak. Comes in silver bottle
> but it makes the radiator fluid look very brown.
> Several older men sai hat using about a tablespoon of ground black
> pepper works.

Leak seems to be in heater core. Windshield steams up when I turn on
heater or defrost. In summer when i run ac or no air, the fluid level
stays the same, no loss.

The repair shop says it is 7 hours labor to replace heater core. Most
of it because they have to remove the whole dash to get to it. (1987
Lincoln Town Car.) So that is about $560 in labor plus the cost of
core. On old car thats to expensive so im going the stop leak route.

J J > wrote in article
>...
> What water cooling system stop leak do you consider best?

Torch-applied, acid-core, solder is the absolute best way to fix a leak -
short of radiator replacement.


> I have tried
> the one with little silver or copper shavings in clear liquid. It
> didn't work.

What a surprise!!!

Have you tried the one with the pencil sharpener shavings?


> Then I tried the Barrs stop leak. Comes in silver bottle
> but it makes the radiator fluid look very brown.

Get the brown bottle.....it makes the radiator fluid look silver.......


> Several older men sai hat using about a tablespoon of ground black
> pepper works.
>

What were they? Japanese restaurant chefs?



>

J J wrote:
> Leak seems to be in heater core. Windshield steams up when I turn on
> heater or defrost. In summer when i run ac or no air, the fluid level
> stays the same, no loss.
>
> The repair shop says it is 7 hours labor to replace heater core. Most
> of it because they have to remove the whole dash to get to it. (1987
> Lincoln Town Car.) So that is about $560 in labor plus the cost of
> core. On old car thats to expensive so im going the stop leak route.

If you don't want to fix it the right way, you can probably just
connect your heater hoses together under the hood, completely bypassing
the heater core itself. Understand that you'll have no heat, lest you
rig up a 12V heater out of some nichrome toaster wire and ceramic
insulators.

But I don't know how crazy you are.

A friend of mine once built a very small wood stove for his car.

The stop leak/bars leak/pepper/ tricks are temporary at best, and let
me tell you, you DON'T want to be in the car when that heater core
decides to explode.

Just sayin'. Maybe Mr. * can correct me here

Ouch.

It could be a fitting leaking and sometimes the hose will leak right
where it enters the firewall which can cause this.

It's bad news when the stop leak won't fix it.....

You 'can' just bypass the heater core by hooking the hoses together or
plugging them, but then your defrosting will be 'really' slow and
cold....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

J J wrote:
>
> Leak seems to be in heater core. Windshield steams up when I turn on
> heater or defrost. In summer when i run ac or no air, the fluid level
> stays the same, no loss.
>
> The repair shop says it is 7 hours labor to replace heater core. Most
> of it because they have to remove the whole dash to get to it. (1987
> Lincoln Town Car.) So that is about $560 in labor plus the cost of
> core. On old car thats to expensive so im going the stop leak route.

J J > wrote:
>Leak seems to be in heater core. Windshield steams up when I turn on
>heater or defrost. In summer when i run ac or no air, the fluid level
>stays the same, no loss.
>
>The repair shop says it is 7 hours labor to replace heater core. Most
>of it because they have to remove the whole dash to get to it. (1987
>Lincoln Town Car.) So that is about $560 in labor plus the cost of
>core. On old car thats to expensive so im going the stop leak route.

Stop leak won't do anything to fix a heater core leak because there isn't
enough circulation through there to get the stuff in to plug it.

And it _is_ a total bear to get those things apart. Seven hours seems
about right. You could do it in a lot less time with a saw if you didn't
mind it looking crappy afterward (which you may not).

The alternative is just not to use the heater ever. Easy in Florida, hard
in Maine.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

Hey there,
While I used to swear by the Barrs leak(the liquid with the pellets on
bottom), I recently learned that the stuff can be detrimental to your
system as a whole...depending on what kind of car you have. I learned
this year through a Mazda 626 forum that the stuff causes more problems
than it solves. Something I now keep in mind. Apparently it has a very
detrimental affect on the Mazdas. Yeah, and it didnt help me out much
either come to think of it.

J J wrote:
> What water cooling system stop leak do you consider best? I have tried
> the one with little silver or copper shavings in clear liquid. It
> didn't work. Then I tried the Barrs stop leak. Comes in silver bottle
> but it makes the radiator fluid look very brown.
> Several older men sai hat using about a tablespoon of ground black
> pepper works.

On 22 Sep 2006 15:10:31 -0400, (Scott Dorsey) wrote:

>J J > wrote:
>>Leak seems to be in heater core. Windshield steams up when I turn on
>>heater or defrost. In summer when i run ac or no air, the fluid level
>>stays the same, no loss.
>>
>>The repair shop says it is 7 hours labor to replace heater core. Most
>>of it because they have to remove the whole dash to get to it. (1987
>>Lincoln Town Car.) So that is about $560 in labor plus the cost of
>>core. On old car thats to expensive so im going the stop leak route.
>
>Stop leak won't do anything to fix a heater core leak because there isn't
>enough circulation through there to get the stuff in to plug it.

My friend put Bahr's Leak in his Mazda 929 and saved himself a VERY
expensive heater core replacement. It was good for the the next few
years until the car died of other causes.

Don
www.donsautomotive.com

>And it _is_ a total bear to get those things apart. Seven hours seems
>about right. You could do it in a lot less time with a saw if you didn't
>mind it looking crappy afterward (which you may not).
>
>The alternative is just not to use the heater ever. Easy in Florida, hard
>in Maine.
>--scott