Help! 95 Civic LX Engine won't start

does it have a 5 speed transmission?


--
johnin

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It's an automatic.

I've cleared the engine of fuel - disconnected power to the fuel pump
and the injectors. Cranked the engine. Took out the spark plugs and
dried them overnight.

Put everything back together and pressed gas pedal to the floor and
cranked. Still just crank crank and crank, didn't even cough. Then
took out spark plugs, and this time, at least they're dry, and not soak
with gas.

Any other suggestions? I don't have a timing gun to check the timing.
I would like to be able to rule out everything else first. Thanks
again.

Also, even if I have a timing light/gun, how do I adjust ignition
timing if the engine doesn't even run?

wrote:
> Also, even if I have a timing light/gun, how do I adjust ignition
> timing if the engine doesn't even run?
>
you don't - the middle position in the distributor housing will start
the car if everything else it working ok. once started, you can adjust.
but leave it where it is for now.

getting back to your no-start condition, another question: did you
disassemble the distributor to check it for operation? you say the
distributor arm rotates ok, but is the screw that holds the arm on still
in there? i ask because the rotor arm is not keyed on most hondas, so
if the screw has come out, the arm is free to rotate, even though it'll
remain on the shaft because it's held on by the distributor cap. if
rotated, this will still give plenty of spark on any plug when testing,
but now it'll be the wrong plug at the wrong time. this would kill the
vehicle on the freeway also.

Yes, the set screw for the rotor is still there and is very tight -
also the shaft is keyed to the rotor - the rotor cannot rotote freely
about the shaft even if the set screw is gone.

Any other ideas please?

wrote:
> It's an automatic.
>
> I've cleared the engine of fuel - disconnected power to the fuel pump
> and the injectors. Cranked the engine. Took out the spark plugs and
> dried them overnight.
>
> Put everything back together and pressed gas pedal to the floor and
> cranked. Still just crank crank and crank, didn't even cough. Then
> took out spark plugs, and this time, at least they're dry, and not soak
> with gas.
>
> Any other suggestions? I don't have a timing gun to check the timing.
> I would like to be able to rule out everything else first. Thanks
> again.
>
main relay not letting the fuel pump run? otherwise the plugs would at
least be a little damp, right?

As I said in my original, the main relay is working. The plugs are a
little damp I should say - but definitely not soaked like before.

Does any one have any other suggestions please?

wrote:
> As I said in my original, the main relay is working. The plugs are a
> little damp I should say - but definitely not soaked like before.
>
> Does any one have any other suggestions please?
>

sorry to say this, but from this distance, i can't help any more. if
this vehicle were in my garage, i'd go right back to basics and work
through every part of the diagnostic chain. and i mean, right from the
very start, including cam timing, all the sensors and their wiring, the
lot. clearly there's something wrong. clearly, it has to be detectable
on some level. even experienced old farts like me make mistakes they
shouldn't occasionally because they assume "component x" is ok when it
isn't and spend serious time and money hunting ghosts further down the
chain.

if you don't already have it, the helm manual is a great investment.

In article >, SoCalMike
> wrote:

wrote:
> It's an automatic.
>
> I've cleared the engine of fuel - disconnected power to the fuel pump
> and the injectors. Cranked the engine. Took out the spark plugs and
> dried them overnight.
>
> Put everything back together and pressed gas pedal to the floor and
> cranked. Still just crank crank and crank, didn't even cough. Then
> took out spark plugs, and this time, at least they're dry, and not soak
> with gas.
>
> Any other suggestions? I don't have a timing gun to check the timing.
> I would like to be able to rule out everything else first. Thanks
> again.
>
main relay not letting the fuel pump run? otherwise the plugs would at
least be a little damp, right?

Hello,
These are some of the causes of the problem that you are having. I copied
them from my Haynes Repair Manual from the section entitled:
"Engine rotates but will not start"
Fuel tank empty.
Leaking fuel injectors.
faulty fuel pump and/or pressure regulator.
Fuel not reaching fuel rail.
Ignition components damp or damaged.
Worn or faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs.
Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit.
Loose distributor is changing ignition timing.
Broken, loose or disconnected wires at the
ignition coil or faulty coil.
Broken or stripped timing belt.
Defective fuel pump relay and/or harness at relay.

I've eliminated all of the causes already. The engine still won't
start. Any other ideas please??