Following the ABS troubleshooting steps; Have any suggestions?

So you are basically saying that you have one shorted out ABS sensor
and the light is on bitching about it.

I would just replace the sensor......

You could always just pull the light bulb that is annoying you or put
some black elictrical tape over it.....
;-)

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
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scube wrote:
>
> Hey all,
> I've torn apart everything near and around my right passenger door
> kick panel except all the carpet. I only see 1 two-input connector
> and it is quite visible. I can't find anything else aound there and I
> read here that the engine diagostic SCS is NOT the same as the ABS
> diagnostic SCS. But, It is the only one I can find!
> Assuming for a minute that this IS the same as the engine
> diagnostic SCS,
> I get no codes from the ABS light.
>
> My car is a manual 93 honda accord and the ABS light comes on after
> driving when the speed climbs to about 10mph (not before that speed
> though) and stays lit solid until the ingnition key is turned off and
> back on.
>
> I'm thinking it is a wheel speed sensor, which the manual says each
> sensor should have about 1000 - 1600 ohms resistances, and I get
> roughly zero ohms resistance.
>
> I guess the ABS control unit will remeber the diagnostic error from
> when I drove my car above 10mph and the light came on solid. So, when
> I turn my car off it will keep it in memory? Then, when I jumper the
> SCS it should recall this code and display it? Is this correct?
>
> I guess I'll try to jumper the connector I found once more and see
> what happens.

Well, it turns out that engine diagnostic connector is the same as the
ABS diagnostic connector. The ABS codes did not report anything wrong
w/ the wheel sensors. They did report a pressure issue however.
The flow chart in the manual says to bleed the high pressure fluid
from the ABS system and measure it's volume. Then, run the pump a bit.
There is a T-wrench tool that is used to turn the bleed valve. It
is a square headed screw and I was wondering if anyone knows if I can
get this valve open w/ out having to buy a $100 wrench. I know it's
got a resevoir thing on top to catch the high pressue fluid, but
what's wrong w/ a hose plugged over the valve opening and a wrench that
is the correct size to turn the valve open.
What size is the head of this bleed valve? anyone know for a 1993
honda Accord?

I don't wanna buy a tool I'll use for one job one time..(hopefully..)

thanks all!

"scube" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> Well, it turns out that engine diagnostic connector is the same as the
> ABS diagnostic connector. The ABS codes did not report anything wrong
> w/ the wheel sensors. They did report a pressure issue however.
> The flow chart in the manual says to bleed the high pressure fluid
> from the ABS system and measure it's volume. Then, run the pump a bit.
> There is a T-wrench tool that is used to turn the bleed valve. It
> is a square headed screw and I was wondering if anyone knows if I can
> get this valve open w/ out having to buy a $100 wrench. I know it's
> got a resevoir thing on top to catch the high pressue fluid, but
> what's wrong w/ a hose plugged over the valve opening and a wrench that
> is the correct size to turn the valve open.
> What size is the head of this bleed valve? anyone know for a 1993
> honda Accord?
>
> I don't wanna buy a tool I'll use for one job one time..(hopefully..)
>
> thanks all!
>
You may find a 12 point socket will fit the screw. Honda seems to be in love
with 12-points.

Mike

scube wrote:
> There is a T-wrench tool that is used to turn the bleed valve. It
> is a square headed screw

square head (sticking out), or recessed square drive? seems every "150+
piece" drive bit set i get as a gift comes with square, torx, star, hex,
etc... crap i never use. 145 bits i never even touch

Michael Pardee wrote:
> "scube" > wrote in message
> oups.com...
>> Well, it turns out that engine diagnostic connector is the same as the
>> ABS diagnostic connector. The ABS codes did not report anything wrong
>> w/ the wheel sensors. They did report a pressure issue however.
>> The flow chart in the manual says to bleed the high pressure fluid
>> from the ABS system and measure it's volume. Then, run the pump a bit.
>> There is a T-wrench tool that is used to turn the bleed valve. It
>> is a square headed screw and I was wondering if anyone knows if I can
>> get this valve open w/ out having to buy a $100 wrench. I know it's
>> got a resevoir thing on top to catch the high pressue fluid, but
>> what's wrong w/ a hose plugged over the valve opening and a wrench that
>> is the correct size to turn the valve open.
>> What size is the head of this bleed valve? anyone know for a 1993
>> honda Accord?
>>
>> I don't wanna buy a tool I'll use for one job one time..(hopefully..)
>>
>> thanks all!
>>
> You may find a 12 point socket will fit the screw. Honda seems to be in love
> with 12-points.
>
> Mike
>
>
yup. id suggest going to wally world and buying a "drive bit" set... as
big a set as you can find, with all the bits. see if anything fits. if
so? good! if not?

either way, you can return it save that receipt!

scube wrote:
>
> Well, it turns out that engine diagnostic connector is the same as the
> ABS diagnostic connector. The ABS codes did not report anything wrong
> w/ the wheel sensors. They did report a pressure issue however.
> The flow chart in the manual says to bleed the high pressure fluid
> from the ABS system and measure it's volume. Then, run the pump a bit.
> There is a T-wrench tool that is used to turn the bleed valve. It
> is a square headed screw and I was wondering if anyone knows if I can
> get this valve open w/ out having to buy a $100 wrench. I know it's
> got a resevoir thing on top to catch the high pressue fluid, but
> what's wrong w/ a hose plugged over the valve opening and a wrench that
> is the correct size to turn the valve open.
> What size is the head of this bleed valve? anyone know for a 1993
> honda Accord?
>
> I don't wanna buy a tool I'll use for one job one time..(hopefully..)
>
> thanks all!

--------------------------------------

8 or 10 mm combination wrench and a chunk of clear tubing from the wine
making store. Bleed it several times, exercise the ABS HARD (gravel
road) as soon as you can get it to keep the light off, and bleed it
again. Lay damp rags around where you're working, and wash with water
any spills.

'Curly'

The manual says to hook the ALB checker to the ABS control
unit and that can simulate the wheels skidding and pressurize the
system.

I don't have an ALB checker, so..

Instead I should bleed from the high pressure valve a few times and
then skid my car on some gravel? Then bleed it again?
Does the pump have to run a little bit to build up pressure to bleed
again?

I have an 8mm socket which won't fit, maybe the thru-hole on the
socket isn't big enough for the nipple. I've seen the 8mm/10mm bleeder
wrench at Autozone. This is what I should use? how about a regular
8mm box end wrench?

Thanks all...