Following the ABS troubleshooting steps; Have any suggestions?

"scube" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> Was sick for a few days..
> It has warmed up some here and I've noticed over the past few days
> that my brakes are working differently. when it is around 65 degrees
> or so there is no noticable issues (other than the ABS light coming on
> a half mile down the road), but when it gets up into the high 70's
> there is noticable spongy-ness in the brakes.
> When stopping they will slowly keep going to the floor. Once at
> the bottom the car doesn't move, but the hotter the car gets the less
> longer it takes to stop, or I have to push the pedal more..
>
> Could this affect my ABS? I know ABS doesn't affect the main
> brakes, but could a faulty (perhaps master cylinder?) component in the
> main brakes affect the ABS?
>
> Thanks for any suggestions!!
>
The pedal sinking to the floor is pretty classic for master cylinder
trouble. Most often the pedal holds up if you keep a lot of pressure on it,
then sinks if you lighten the pressure.

Mike

Yeah..
I'm thinking also the master cylinder is bad, perhaps I'll replace it
this weekend. Man, this repair list on my car is growing fast!!

I'm wondering though, if that would have an effect on the ABS not
working. Is there a pressure test or something that could detect a
faulty master cylinder and shut the ABS off? Mind you, the ABS only
turns off after vehicle movement, not startup.

My rear brakes make a rubbing noise, sorta like when you put new
brakes pads on and they haven't mated w/ the rotors. I inspected the
pads and they are fine, so I was wondering if the parking brake could
need adjusting? Could this be causing the ABS 'turn off'?

Thanks so much everyone...

scube wrote:
> Yeah..
> I'm thinking also the master cylinder is bad, perhaps I'll replace it
> this weekend. Man, this repair list on my car is growing fast!!
>
> I'm wondering though, if that would have an effect on the ABS not
> working. Is there a pressure test or something that could detect a
> faulty master cylinder and shut the ABS off? Mind you, the ABS only
> turns off after vehicle movement, not startup.
>
> My rear brakes make a rubbing noise, sorta like when you put new
> brakes pads on and they haven't mated w/ the rotors. I inspected the
> pads and they are fine, so I was wondering if the parking brake could
> need adjusting? Could this be causing the ABS 'turn off'?
>
> Thanks so much everyone...
======
======
Scube.....

you need to find that connector and pull the ABS codes.
It's going to save you some time.

look again.
The connector should be under the glove box area.

If you're emails operating I'll send you a diagram.




~:~
marshmonster
~:~

yeah, my email works. I have diagrams from a shop manual. Is it
the same connector that the 'check engine' light uses? I'll look some
more. would it be under the rug or something?
I jumpered the connector that I found, but only the check engine
light came on (did not flash).

scube wrote:
> yeah, my email works. I have diagrams from a shop manual. Is it
> the same connector that the 'check engine' light uses? I'll look some
> more. would it be under the rug or something?
> I jumpered the connector that I found, but only the check engine
> light came on (did not flash).
=======
=======
No...different connector.

The ABS light will flash codes when the correct connector is jumpered.



CHECK YOUR MAIL

and let us know.

~:~
marsh
~:~

Hmmm,
okay, I'll look. I tested my car in a long parking lot the other
day and tried out some scenarios.
There is no time related issue with the error. It is all speed
related. As long as I stay below 10 MPH the light stays off. When I
go above that it pops on, so I'm guessing it is a speed sensor. When
I ohm'd out the speed sensors I got 0 ohms through one or two of them.
Is that normal or acceptable? Could these be bad?
I don't think the pump would be bad as there is no timeout issues
with pressure or anything, but I guess I won't have anymore data until
I check that connector. It'll have to wait a week, I'm away from my
automobile. Thanks for the replies and help...

scube wrote:
>
> Hmmm,
> okay, I'll look. I tested my car in a long parking lot the other
> day and tried out some scenarios.
> There is no time related issue with the error. It is all speed
> related. As long as I stay below 10 MPH the light stays off. When I
> go above that it pops on, so I'm guessing it is a speed sensor. When
> I ohm'd out the speed sensors I got 0 ohms through one or two of them.
> Is that normal or acceptable? Could these be bad?
> I don't think the pump would be bad as there is no timeout issues
> with pressure or anything, but I guess I won't have anymore data until
> I check that connector. It'll have to wait a week, I'm away from my
> automobile. Thanks for the replies and help...

----------------------


Have you read the codes yet?? You seem to be pursuing an untamed
ornithoid.

Car moves above 10 km/hr, abs looks for sensors to 'CHECK IN', they
don't, ABS light comes on.

'Curly'

no,
no codes yet. I'm away from my car now and was just tossing around
some speculation. Since I can't play w/ it I've got to find someway to
still mess with it.. Thanks for your help here...

The pictures in the Email I got were not available. They didn't show
up in my email and the picture link says they are temporary out of
order. ALLDATA Online. Oh well...

Hey all,
I've torn apart everything near and around my right passenger door
kick panel except all the carpet. I only see 1 two-input connector
and it is quite visible. I can't find anything else aound there and I
read here that the engine diagostic SCS is NOT the same as the ABS
diagnostic SCS. But, It is the only one I can find!
Assuming for a minute that this IS the same as the engine
diagnostic SCS,
I get no codes from the ABS light.

My car is a manual 93 honda accord and the ABS light comes on after
driving when the speed climbs to about 10mph (not before that speed
though) and stays lit solid until the ingnition key is turned off and
back on.

I'm thinking it is a wheel speed sensor, which the manual says each
sensor should have about 1000 - 1600 ohms resistances, and I get
roughly zero ohms resistance.

I guess the ABS control unit will remeber the diagnostic error from
when I drove my car above 10mph and the light came on solid. So, when
I turn my car off it will keep it in memory? Then, when I jumper the
SCS it should recall this code and display it? Is this correct?

I guess I'll try to jumper the connector I found once more and see
what happens.