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#51
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head thread repair on aluminum block
Lawrence Glickman wrote: > So, you ADMIT there is a gain in mechanical advantage, by using a fine > thread over a coarse thread. Thank you very much. You can go back to > your nap now. So tell me again how this new discovery refutes my earlier post that you jumped all over? The results from the torque calculator show that the whole thing cannot simply be dismissed in the two words "mechanical advantage". |
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#52
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head thread repair on aluminum block
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#53
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head thread repair on aluminum block
Lawrence Glickman wrote: > IIRC, you said the specs given by the manual/book were wrong, as you > had a "WTF moment," and you went ahead with a procedure that > contradicted the manual's instructions, if I interpret this all > correctly. Now you're complaining that the bolt isn't holding like it > should. No, you interpret wrong. The bolt is holding. What the bolt is not doing is turning smoothly. That is a problem because the carefully calculated correlation between apparent torque and clamping force then dissolves. The bolt that came out was checked against a gauge. It was determined to be a 1.5. The book says 1.25. Ergo, the book is wrong. If the book is right, then the NAPA bolt gauge is wrong (and by wrong, I mean not even in the ballpark, and it's STILL wrong after a recheck). When "the book" is wrong, that's an automatic WTF moment, no? > I can't see your aluminum block, I can't see the hardware in question, > I have no further comment, other than it appears you're in over your > head, and it might be a good time to call in someone who knows what > they're doing. I'll dearly miss your comments, you know. The people who "know what they're doing" wouldn't even touch the helicoil job. That's because they want to stay in business and they can't stay in business doing repairs they can't guarantee. Helicoiling one hole in the block and assuming the others won't pull out in the same fashion that one did is not a repair they can guarantee. However, it's a risk we can live with. I'm now back to about 30 posts ago. We installed the correct helicoil using the correct procedure (drill, tap, etc). The bolt is now jumpy when torquing it. I thought it was a lube problem, because that's what it acted like. The respondents all thought it was a thread problem. But thread problems just don't act like lube problems. We are absolutely certain now that we measured the threads correctly and used the correct helicoil. The best idea I now have to approximate the original clamping force is to count turns from the torque where the bolt starts to jump to the final torque, using a reference bolt that doesn't jump. From jim beam's post. If nobody else has a better suggestion, that's what we'll go with. If the Honda motor becomes a steam engine, so be it. Can't win them all. |
#54
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head thread repair on aluminum block
> wrote in message ups.com... > > jim beam wrote: > >> does it tighten smooth to a given torque then start jumping? if so, you >> can count the turns [and fractions thereof] on an ok bolt from that >> torque to the required torque, then repeat the same number of turns on >> the problem bolt. that should get you close enough. > > Yes, that's exactly what it does. > > Your suggestion makes the most sense yet. I'll have a chance to look > at it this weekend and that's what we will go with. Here is what I would do - replace the bolt with a stud. Either buy a pre-made stud of the correct lenght or make one. Use loctite stud and bearing mount on the threaded portion that screws into the block. I'd screw it in as tight as I could with the stud and bearing mount applied (but not so tight that it "jumps"). I'd then I'd install a nut on the portion of the stud that extends from the head. I'll bet I would have no problem torquing the nut to the correct value. Ed |
#55
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head thread repair on aluminum block
> wrote in message oups.com... > If nobody else has a better suggestion, that's what we'll go with. If > the Honda motor becomes a steam engine, so be it. Can't win them all. Here is what I would do - replace the bolt with a stud. Either buy a pre-made stud of the correct lenght or make one. Use loctite stud and bearing mount on the threaded portion that screws into the block. I'd screw it in as tight as I could with the stud and bearing mount applied (but not so tight that it "jumps"). I'd then I'd install a nut on the portion of the stud that extends from the head. I'll bet I would have no problem torquing the nut to the correct value. Ed |
#56
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head thread repair on aluminum block
On Tue, 10 Oct 2006 15:30:27 -0400, "C. E. White"
> wrote: > > wrote in message roups.com... > >> If nobody else has a better suggestion, that's what we'll go with. If >> the Honda motor becomes a steam engine, so be it. Can't win them all. > >Here is what I would do - replace the bolt with a stud. Either buy a >pre-made stud of the correct lenght or make one. Use loctite stud and >bearing mount on the threaded portion that screws into the block. I'd screw >it in as tight as I could with the stud and bearing mount applied (but not >so tight that it "jumps"). I'd then I'd install a nut on the portion of the >stud that extends from the head. I'll bet I would have no problem torquing >the nut to the correct value. > >Ed Sounds like an excellent suggestion, Ed. |
#57
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head thread repair on aluminum block
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