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Bonding turn signal fixture to damaged bumper
I recently hit a coyote at 80mph on a road trip with my 1997 Accord.
Amazingly, there was no major damage. However the impact tore out the passenger side turn-signal assembly that normally screws into the bumper. When I brought it to the mechanic he said, he wouldn't install a replacement, as the bumper is cracked right next to the fixture hole and the screw mounts are destroyed. He couldnt guarantee a new fixture would stay in. So I have decided to buy a new fixture and epoxy the top and bottom surfaces of the fixture into the hole in the bumper and hope for the best. My concern is how the vibration from driving is going to affect the plastic-to plastic bond. What would be the best epoxy to create a vibration resistant bond in this application. Would any 5-minute epoxy be sufficient? |
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Bonding turn signal fixture to damaged bumper
) writes:
> I recently hit a coyote at 80mph on a road trip with my 1997 Accord. > Amazingly, there was no major damage. However the impact tore out the > passenger side turn-signal assembly that normally screws into the > bumper. When I brought it to the mechanic he said, he wouldn't install > a replacement, as the bumper is cracked right next to the fixture hole > and the screw mounts are destroyed. He couldnt guarantee a new fixture > would stay in. So I have decided to buy a new fixture and epoxy the > top and bottom surfaces of the fixture into the hole in the bumper and > hope for the best. My concern is how the vibration from driving is > going to affect the plastic-to plastic bond. What would be the best > epoxy to create a vibration resistant bond in this application. > Would any 5-minute epoxy be sufficient? > Vibration should not affect a good epoxy bond. Key to success is clean surfaces and no disturbance during bonding. Acetone will do a good job cleaning, but might be hard on the plastic surfaces. 99% isopropyl alcohol would be safe, if not quite as effective in cleaning. You might also try a product called Goop. There is an automotive version of this. It is a flexible bonding agent. The main drawback to it is long cure time. You would need to leave it undisturbed for 24 hours. Dan (This account is not used for email.) |
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Bonding turn signal fixture to damaged bumper
Most two-part epoxies will NOT bond plastic. They say so right in the fine print on the tube. As a matter of fact, I mix my epoxies on plastic because it is easier to clean up. There is one two-part epoxy - manufactured by Devcon and sold under various brand names - known as "Plastic Welder" that works well. |
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Bonding turn signal fixture to damaged bumper
Scott Dorsey > wrote in article
>... > In article <01c7d2a1$6d8be200$ca91c3d8@race>, * > wrote: > > > >Most two-part epoxies will NOT bond plastic. They say so right in the fine > >print on the tube. > > What is "Plastic?" > Technically speaking, a "plastic" is anything that is capeble of being molded. Steel can actually reach a plastic state. In this situation, however, we are talking about a light assembly that is cast from resins - which are generically referred to as "plastics". The OP was questioning using epoxy for a "......plastic-to-plastic bond....." on an automotive component. You might want to read the OP. It will save you from asking such embarassing questions. > >As a matter of fact, I mix my epoxies on plastic because it is easier to > >clean up. > > What kind of "plastic?" > A Polyethylene board that was originally sold to mix body filler on. > >There is one two-part epoxy - manufactured by Devcon and sold under various > >brand names - known as "Plastic Welder" that works well. > > The "Plastic Welder" I know of is not an epoxy at all but a solvent-type > adhesive. It works well on most thermosetting plastics, but not as well > as epoxy on phenolics. The "Plastic Welder" to which I refer is a two-part product manufactured by Devcon and is referred to as an epoxy. Why not Google "Devcon" and get all the answers you seek right from the source? I am not their spokesman. |
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