Need a second opinion...

Speedy Jim wrote:
> Randy wrote:
>
> >
> > Plan C.
> > Get a different air cleaner.
> >
> > Randy
> >
>
> Hmmmph!@ Killjoy :-)

Now theres something I don't get called very often.

Randy

"Speedy Jim" > wrote in message
m...
> Dangermouse wrote:
>
> > Thanks guys, suspected as much - I stand dissuaded.
> >
> > What an incredible PITA though! I snapped off a 6mm steel cable inside
> > my original manifold trying to ream the bugger out and then when I fit
> > a new, clear one, the air cleaner won't fit back on but of course I
> > only realise this after the engine's reinstalled. Its just not FAIR!!!
>
>
> PLAN "B"
>
> Make a "custom" gasket between the carb base and manifold
> riser flange. This gasket will have a slightly tapered
> profile such that it "tilts" the carb back at a comfortable angle :-)
>
> I think one could do it in an evening with nothing
> more than a big ass rasp.
>
> Jim

I actually have a carb in my load of bits which has a small offset flange
thing on it, this looks like it moves the carb to the side slightly.
I would guess something forward/backward would be similar.

James

Loosen the generator clamp and the two screws on each side of the fan
housing. Push the generator and fan housing towards the front of the
car until enough clearance is obtained. tighten screws and generator
clamp. This is a common assembly problem with what ever manifold is
installed. Chuk

On 13 Nov 2006 12:55:34 -0800, "Dangermouse" >
wrote:

>engine is back in car and now I find that I can't get
>the stock air cleaner back on as the carb top is slightly too close to
>the fan housing (by about 5-6mm).

I had exactly the same problem. Aftermarket manifolds are rubbish,
The carb isn't even straight!! I am on the lookout for an original
one.
--
Howard Rose
www.howard81.co.uk
1966 Volkswagen Beetle 1300
1975 Volkswagen 1303S
1962 Austin Mini Seven

Chuk wrote:
> Loosen the generator clamp and the two screws on each side of the fan
> housing. Push the generator and fan housing towards the front of the
> car until enough clearance is obtained. tighten screws and generator
> clamp. This is a common assembly problem with what ever manifold is
> installed. Chuk
>

The fan could easily rub inside the fanhousing doing this, you will hear
it right away though..

J.

> Loosen the generator clamp and the two screws on each side of the fan
> housing. Push the generator and fan housing towards the front of the
> car until enough clearance is obtained. tighten screws and generator
> clamp. This is a common assembly problem with what ever manifold is
> installed.

....and wouldn't you just end up transferring the clearance problem from
between the aircleaner and the fanhousing to between the generator and
the generator mount? Would then tightening down the generator strap not
put a lot of strain 'somewhere'?

The clearance problem is created by improper installation of the fan
housing. There is usually about an inch of adjustment. The oil cooler
will keep you from going to far. When the fan is correctly installed,
it will not rub with adjustment. All of the stress and strain of this
adjustment is in the sheet metal where it is not a concern. Fan
housings get out of alignment by pulling and pushing on them when
removing and installing engines. Lifting on the generator when
removing the housing can bend the generator mounting tin plate which
then pulls the fan housing forward when the generator and fan housing
are reinstalled. Ideally the fan housing should stand at 90% to the
crank shaft and the crank and fan pulleys should be in perfect
alignment(assuming correct generator). In almost 50 years of servicing
these things, I have found that when an air cleaner will not install
because of fan housing clearance, the fan housing has been pulled to
far to the rear. The main problem I have with intake manifolds is
aligning the heat riser tube to the muffler flange. This is a problem
with both factory and after market manifolds.

Chuk


Dangermouse wrote:
> > Loosen the generator clamp and the two screws on each side of the fan
> > housing. Push the generator and fan housing towards the front of the
> > car until enough clearance is obtained. tighten screws and generator
> > clamp. This is a common assembly problem with what ever manifold is
> > installed.
>
> ...and wouldn't you just end up transferring the clearance problem from
> between the aircleaner and the fanhousing to between the generator and
> the generator mount? Would then tightening down the generator strap not
> put a lot of strain 'somewhere'?

I might have one available, once I replace my sp with dp, but that will
be a while. I am not sure if my manifold is original but it fit's
fine.

Anton

Howard Rose wrote:
> On 13 Nov 2006 12:55:34 -0800, "Dangermouse" >
> wrote:
>
> >engine is back in car and now I find that I can't get
> >the stock air cleaner back on as the carb top is slightly too close to
> >the fan housing (by about 5-6mm).
>
> I had exactly the same problem. Aftermarket manifolds are rubbish,
> The carb isn't even straight!! I am on the lookout for an original
> one.
> --
> Howard Rose
> www.howard81.co.uk
> 1966 Volkswagen Beetle 1300
> 1975 Volkswagen 1303S
> 1962 Austin Mini Seven

> ...Fanhousings get out of alignment by pulling and pushing on them when
> removing and installing engines. Lifting on the generator when
> removing the housing can bend the generator mounting tin plate which
> then pulls the fan housing forward when the generator and fan housing
> are reinstalled. Ideally the fan housing should stand at 90% to the
> crank shaft and the crank and fan pulleys should be in perfect
> alignment(assuming correct generator). In almost 50 years of servicing
> these things, I have found that when an air cleaner will not install
> because of fan housing clearance, the fan housing has been pulled to
> far to the rear.

Ah ha; this sets a little alarm bell ringing... 'Cos I've also been
hearing some fan rubbing at higher revs. Suggests to me that indeed all
might not be well with my fan housing. And I did have to yank on that
sucker a bit to get the engine out and back in again... Perhaps I have
bent the fan mounting plate a bit. I'm going to give your suggestion a
go - I'll let you know how it goes ;-)

> The main problem I have with intake manifolds is
> aligning the heat riser tube to the muffler flange. This is a problem
> with both factory and after market manifolds.

Yep, this was a complete bugger and took two attempts. The first time I
tried it I tightened down the manifold to heat bolts first and then
wrestled for a while with the heat riser flanges and got absolutely
nowhere. After I'd cooled off, I connected the head stud nuts loosely
and then lined up the heat riser to muffler flange on the right hand
side (the more immovable of the two). I tightened that one down most of
the way, then the head nuts most of the way and then was able to align
the other heat riser tube to the bendy muffler to riser pipe as there's
a bit more room for maneuvering with that one. Finally got to tighten
down the whole assembly. It made me realise that there's a fairly
strict order in which these things should be approached...

Jan wrote:
>
> and the carb would then sit at a weird angle and not work properly
> because the fuel level would be weird to say the least?
>
> Maybe I'm just paranoid, they do work when driving uphill.... lol

They do also run driving downhill. There seems to be more power and
acceleration when the carb is tilted downhill. I'll go right away
to tilt mine forward to get turbo power :P

---
Olli