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#11
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My Craftsman socket was the first one to break - even before I started using
the impact wrench. Then my neighbor's S/K. That is when I went to NAPA because it was a 3 mile drive vs. 20 to replace the Craftsman. I bought 4 more at NAPA, broke 2 more with the impact wrench, then gave up. All 3 brands simply twisted halfway down the shaft & broke. I think the reason was because the head of the bolts is only a couple mm deep, so the weakest part of the shaft was left without support. Maybe they make some that are designed for impact wrenches, but I couldn't find any that day. -- Dana 93 YJ 90 XJ Ltd. --------------- 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd. 82 Cherokee 76 Cherokee "L.W. ("ßill") Hughes III" > wrote in message ... > Next time buy Craftsman or Snap-On. > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > http://www.billhughes.com/ > > Dana Rohleder wrote: >> >> As Mike says, they are put on with a heat-activated thread sealer. I >> tried >> the impact wrench method suggested by Bill on my YJ - 5 broken torx >> sockets >> (replaced by NAPA under warranty) and 3 big gouges in my paint later, I >> gave >> up. I managed to get only one bolt out. Luckily, I didn't strip any >> heads, >> just broke the sockets - twisted the mothers right off. The thread sealer >> is >> evil stuff. Heat is likely the only way to get it off, but I don't know >> how >> you would do it and not ruin your paint. Possibly a soldering iron or gun >> held right on the head would create enough heat to melt it. You may want >> to >> talk to a Jeep body shop to see how they do it. >> >> Dana >> 93 YJ >> 90 XJ Ltd. >> --------------- >> 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd. >> 82 Cherokee >> 76 Cherokee >> >> "It's in our country's interests to find those who would do harm to us >> and >> get them out of harm's way." GW Bush -Washington, D.C., April 28, 2005 >> "diablo" > wrote in message >> ... >> > Hi Guys, >> > >> > i'm sure you've all encountered this problem, and therefore may have a >> > quick >> > fix or two. >> > >> > i'm replacing all the hinges, catches, loops and mirrors on a 93 YJ >> > with >> > SS >> > pieces replacing the original pieces. >> > >> > took my torx heads and wrench, took one out no problem. >> > >> > next one ended up stripped..and the next one...managed to get them all >> > back >> > in til i fix this dilema. i used small movements, wasn't trying to take >> > the >> > screw out in one go...seems like the metal is so darn soft. obviously >> > i'm >> > going to be taking out about a dozen plus, so... >> > >> > any suggestions would be great. >> > >> > Steve >> > >> > |
Ads |
#12
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How did you go about applying heat without mangling the paint? Would the
soldering iron method get it hot enough? If I remember correctly (this was a couple years ago) after my torx bit fiasco, I think I read somewhere that you didn't need to get the bolt really hot, but something like 150-200 degrees F and they would release, but I can't verify that. I just gave up and bought a $6 mirror and Velcro it to my rollbar whenever I take the doors off. And yes Bill, I do have to use doors occasionally up here when it gets below zero! -- Dana -- 93 YJ 90 XJ Ltd. --------------- 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd. 82 Cherokee 76 Cherokee "mic canic" > wrote in message ... > the left spin drill bits are the best way to if you can get the kit with > the > matching extractors but when push comes to shove > take a drill bit that is i/8 inch bigger than the torqs and drill it out > carefully > so it just pops thru the hole then there is enough hanging out from what > it > holding in.a good and new visegrip can get a bite and with a little heat > to > release the lock tight it will come out > > "L.W.(ßill) Hughes III" wrote: > >> Next time buy Craftsman or Snap-On. >> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O >> http://www.billhughes.com/ >> >> Dana Rohleder wrote: >> > >> > As Mike says, they are put on with a heat-activated thread sealer. I >> > tried >> > the impact wrench method suggested by Bill on my YJ - 5 broken torx >> > sockets >> > (replaced by NAPA under warranty) and 3 big gouges in my paint later, I >> > gave >> > up. I managed to get only one bolt out. Luckily, I didn't strip any >> > heads, >> > just broke the sockets - twisted the mothers right off. The thread >> > sealer is >> > evil stuff. Heat is likely the only way to get it off, but I don't know >> > how >> > you would do it and not ruin your paint. Possibly a soldering iron or >> > gun >> > held right on the head would create enough heat to melt it. You may >> > want to >> > talk to a Jeep body shop to see how they do it. >> > >> > Dana >> > 93 YJ >> > 90 XJ Ltd. >> > --------------- >> > 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd. >> > 82 Cherokee >> > 76 Cherokee >> > >> > "It's in our country's interests to find those who would do harm to us >> > and >> > get them out of harm's way." GW Bush -Washington, D.C., April 28, 2005 >> > "diablo" > wrote in message >> > ... >> > > Hi Guys, >> > > >> > > i'm sure you've all encountered this problem, and therefore may have >> > > a >> > > quick >> > > fix or two. >> > > >> > > i'm replacing all the hinges, catches, loops and mirrors on a 93 YJ >> > > with >> > > SS >> > > pieces replacing the original pieces. >> > > >> > > took my torx heads and wrench, took one out no problem. >> > > >> > > next one ended up stripped..and the next one...managed to get them >> > > all >> > > back >> > > in til i fix this dilema. i used small movements, wasn't trying to >> > > take >> > > the >> > > screw out in one go...seems like the metal is so darn soft. obviously >> > > i'm >> > > going to be taking out about a dozen plus, so... >> > > >> > > any suggestions would be great. >> > > >> > > Steve >> > > >> > > > |
#13
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I have never seen a set come out without paint damage. It is easy
enough to sand down the hinges and repaint them, but the OP is changing them so who cares? Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Dana Rohleder wrote: > > How did you go about applying heat without mangling the paint? Would the > soldering iron method get it hot enough? If I remember correctly (this was a > couple years ago) after my torx bit fiasco, I think I read somewhere that > you didn't need to get the bolt really hot, but something like 150-200 > degrees F and they would release, but I can't verify that. I just gave up > and bought a $6 mirror and Velcro it to my rollbar whenever I take the doors > off. And yes Bill, I do have to use doors occasionally up here when it gets > below zero! > -- > Dana > > -- > 93 YJ > 90 XJ Ltd. > --------------- > 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd. > 82 Cherokee > 76 Cherokee > > "mic canic" > wrote in message > ... > > the left spin drill bits are the best way to if you can get the kit with > > the > > matching extractors but when push comes to shove > > take a drill bit that is i/8 inch bigger than the torqs and drill it out > > carefully > > so it just pops thru the hole then there is enough hanging out from what > > it > > holding in.a good and new visegrip can get a bite and with a little heat > > to > > release the lock tight it will come out > > > > "L.W.(ßill) Hughes III" wrote: > > > >> Next time buy Craftsman or Snap-On. > >> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > >> http://www.billhughes.com/ > >> > >> Dana Rohleder wrote: > >> > > >> > As Mike says, they are put on with a heat-activated thread sealer. I > >> > tried > >> > the impact wrench method suggested by Bill on my YJ - 5 broken torx > >> > sockets > >> > (replaced by NAPA under warranty) and 3 big gouges in my paint later, I > >> > gave > >> > up. I managed to get only one bolt out. Luckily, I didn't strip any > >> > heads, > >> > just broke the sockets - twisted the mothers right off. The thread > >> > sealer is > >> > evil stuff. Heat is likely the only way to get it off, but I don't know > >> > how > >> > you would do it and not ruin your paint. Possibly a soldering iron or > >> > gun > >> > held right on the head would create enough heat to melt it. You may > >> > want to > >> > talk to a Jeep body shop to see how they do it. > >> > > >> > Dana > >> > 93 YJ > >> > 90 XJ Ltd. > >> > --------------- > >> > 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd. > >> > 82 Cherokee > >> > 76 Cherokee > >> > > >> > "It's in our country's interests to find those who would do harm to us > >> > and > >> > get them out of harm's way." GW Bush -Washington, D.C., April 28, 2005 > >> > "diablo" > wrote in message > >> > ... > >> > > Hi Guys, > >> > > > >> > > i'm sure you've all encountered this problem, and therefore may have > >> > > a > >> > > quick > >> > > fix or two. > >> > > > >> > > i'm replacing all the hinges, catches, loops and mirrors on a 93 YJ > >> > > with > >> > > SS > >> > > pieces replacing the original pieces. > >> > > > >> > > took my torx heads and wrench, took one out no problem. > >> > > > >> > > next one ended up stripped..and the next one...managed to get them > >> > > all > >> > > back > >> > > in til i fix this dilema. i used small movements, wasn't trying to > >> > > take > >> > > the > >> > > screw out in one go...seems like the metal is so darn soft. obviously > >> > > i'm > >> > > going to be taking out about a dozen plus, so... > >> > > > >> > > any suggestions would be great. > >> > > > >> > > Steve > >> > > > >> > > > > |
#14
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leslie (Spelling?)tool makes a solid 1 piece socket that is 3/8 impact
sustainable. it is black sold at a/c delco part stores and some uap stores. "Dana Rohleder" > wrote in message ... > My Craftsman socket was the first one to break - even before I started > using the impact wrench. Then my neighbor's S/K. That is when I went to > NAPA because it was a 3 mile drive vs. 20 to replace the Craftsman. I > bought 4 more at NAPA, broke 2 more with the impact wrench, then gave up. > All 3 brands simply twisted halfway down the shaft & broke. I think the > reason was because the head of the bolts is only a couple mm deep, so the > weakest part of the shaft was left without support. Maybe they make some > that are designed for impact wrenches, but I couldn't find any that day. > -- > Dana > > 93 YJ > 90 XJ Ltd. > --------------- > 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd. > 82 Cherokee > 76 Cherokee > > > "L.W. ("ßill") Hughes III" > wrote in message > ... >> Next time buy Craftsman or Snap-On. >> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O >> http://www.billhughes.com/ >> >> Dana Rohleder wrote: >>> >>> As Mike says, they are put on with a heat-activated thread sealer. I >>> tried >>> the impact wrench method suggested by Bill on my YJ - 5 broken torx >>> sockets >>> (replaced by NAPA under warranty) and 3 big gouges in my paint later, I >>> gave >>> up. I managed to get only one bolt out. Luckily, I didn't strip any >>> heads, >>> just broke the sockets - twisted the mothers right off. The thread >>> sealer is >>> evil stuff. Heat is likely the only way to get it off, but I don't know >>> how >>> you would do it and not ruin your paint. Possibly a soldering iron or >>> gun >>> held right on the head would create enough heat to melt it. You may want >>> to >>> talk to a Jeep body shop to see how they do it. >>> >>> Dana >>> 93 YJ >>> 90 XJ Ltd. >>> --------------- >>> 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd. >>> 82 Cherokee >>> 76 Cherokee >>> >>> "It's in our country's interests to find those who would do harm to us >>> and >>> get them out of harm's way." GW Bush -Washington, D.C., April 28, 2005 >>> "diablo" > wrote in message >>> ... >>> > Hi Guys, >>> > >>> > i'm sure you've all encountered this problem, and therefore may have a >>> > quick >>> > fix or two. >>> > >>> > i'm replacing all the hinges, catches, loops and mirrors on a 93 YJ >>> > with >>> > SS >>> > pieces replacing the original pieces. >>> > >>> > took my torx heads and wrench, took one out no problem. >>> > >>> > next one ended up stripped..and the next one...managed to get them all >>> > back >>> > in til i fix this dilema. i used small movements, wasn't trying to >>> > take >>> > the >>> > screw out in one go...seems like the metal is so darn soft. obviously >>> > i'm >>> > going to be taking out about a dozen plus, so... >>> > >>> > any suggestions would be great. >>> > >>> > Steve >>> > >>> > > > |
#15
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http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=587
Chris "wraithyjeep" > wrote in message ... > leslie (Spelling?)tool makes a solid 1 piece socket that is 3/8 impact > sustainable. it is black sold at a/c delco part stores and some uap stores. > > > "Dana Rohleder" > wrote in message > ... > > My Craftsman socket was the first one to break - even before I started > > using the impact wrench. Then my neighbor's S/K. That is when I went to > > NAPA because it was a 3 mile drive vs. 20 to replace the Craftsman. I > > bought 4 more at NAPA, broke 2 more with the impact wrench, then gave up. > > All 3 brands simply twisted halfway down the shaft & broke. I think the > > reason was because the head of the bolts is only a couple mm deep, so the > > weakest part of the shaft was left without support. Maybe they make some > > that are designed for impact wrenches, but I couldn't find any that day. > > -- > > Dana > > > > 93 YJ > > 90 XJ Ltd. > > --------------- > > 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd. > > 82 Cherokee > > 76 Cherokee > > > > > > "L.W. ("ßill") Hughes III" > wrote in message > > ... > >> Next time buy Craftsman or Snap-On. > >> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > >> http://www.billhughes.com/ > >> > >> Dana Rohleder wrote: > >>> > >>> As Mike says, they are put on with a heat-activated thread sealer. I > >>> tried > >>> the impact wrench method suggested by Bill on my YJ - 5 broken torx > >>> sockets > >>> (replaced by NAPA under warranty) and 3 big gouges in my paint later, I > >>> gave > >>> up. I managed to get only one bolt out. Luckily, I didn't strip any > >>> heads, > >>> just broke the sockets - twisted the mothers right off. The thread > >>> sealer is > >>> evil stuff. Heat is likely the only way to get it off, but I don't know > >>> how > >>> you would do it and not ruin your paint. Possibly a soldering iron or > >>> gun > >>> held right on the head would create enough heat to melt it. You may want > >>> to > >>> talk to a Jeep body shop to see how they do it. > >>> > >>> Dana > >>> 93 YJ > >>> 90 XJ Ltd. > >>> --------------- > >>> 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd. > >>> 82 Cherokee > >>> 76 Cherokee > >>> > >>> "It's in our country's interests to find those who would do harm to us > >>> and > >>> get them out of harm's way." GW Bush -Washington, D.C., April 28, 2005 > >>> "diablo" > wrote in message > >>> ... > >>> > Hi Guys, > >>> > > >>> > i'm sure you've all encountered this problem, and therefore may have a > >>> > quick > >>> > fix or two. > >>> > > >>> > i'm replacing all the hinges, catches, loops and mirrors on a 93 YJ > >>> > with > >>> > SS > >>> > pieces replacing the original pieces. > >>> > > >>> > took my torx heads and wrench, took one out no problem. > >>> > > >>> > next one ended up stripped..and the next one...managed to get them all > >>> > back > >>> > in til i fix this dilema. i used small movements, wasn't trying to > >>> > take > >>> > the > >>> > screw out in one go...seems like the metal is so darn soft. obviously > >>> > i'm > >>> > going to be taking out about a dozen plus, so... > >>> > > >>> > any suggestions would be great. > >>> > > >>> > Steve > >>> > > >>> > > > > > > > |
#16
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And don't forget to buy the BMFH and:
http://www.billhughes.com/impactDriver.jpg God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O wraithyjeep wrote: > > leslie (Spelling?)tool makes a solid 1 piece socket that is 3/8 impact > sustainable. it is black sold at a/c delco part stores and some uap stores. |
#17
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As far as saving the paint while using heat....could you put in the torx bit
and apply heat to the torx bit...would the heat transfer down the bolt? how much heat do you need to get the loctite to loosen? "Dana Rohleder" > wrote in message ... > How did you go about applying heat without mangling the paint? Would the > soldering iron method get it hot enough? If I remember correctly (this was > a couple years ago) after my torx bit fiasco, I think I read somewhere > that you didn't need to get the bolt really hot, but something like > 150-200 degrees F and they would release, but I can't verify that. I just > gave up and bought a $6 mirror and Velcro it to my rollbar whenever I take > the doors off. And yes Bill, I do have to use doors occasionally up here > when it gets below zero! > -- > Dana > > -- > 93 YJ > 90 XJ Ltd. > --------------- > 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd. > 82 Cherokee > 76 Cherokee > > > "mic canic" > wrote in message > ... >> the left spin drill bits are the best way to if you can get the kit with >> the >> matching extractors but when push comes to shove >> take a drill bit that is i/8 inch bigger than the torqs and drill it out >> carefully >> so it just pops thru the hole then there is enough hanging out from what >> it >> holding in.a good and new visegrip can get a bite and with a little heat >> to >> release the lock tight it will come out >> >> "L.W.(ßill) Hughes III" wrote: >> >>> Next time buy Craftsman or Snap-On. >>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O >>> http://www.billhughes.com/ >>> >>> Dana Rohleder wrote: >>> > >>> > As Mike says, they are put on with a heat-activated thread sealer. I >>> > tried >>> > the impact wrench method suggested by Bill on my YJ - 5 broken torx >>> > sockets >>> > (replaced by NAPA under warranty) and 3 big gouges in my paint later, >>> > I gave >>> > up. I managed to get only one bolt out. Luckily, I didn't strip any >>> > heads, >>> > just broke the sockets - twisted the mothers right off. The thread >>> > sealer is >>> > evil stuff. Heat is likely the only way to get it off, but I don't >>> > know how >>> > you would do it and not ruin your paint. Possibly a soldering iron or >>> > gun >>> > held right on the head would create enough heat to melt it. You may >>> > want to >>> > talk to a Jeep body shop to see how they do it. >>> > >>> > Dana >>> > 93 YJ >>> > 90 XJ Ltd. >>> > --------------- >>> > 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd. >>> > 82 Cherokee >>> > 76 Cherokee >>> > >>> > "It's in our country's interests to find those who would do harm to us >>> > and >>> > get them out of harm's way." GW Bush -Washington, D.C., April 28, 2005 >>> > "diablo" > wrote in message >>> > ... >>> > > Hi Guys, >>> > > >>> > > i'm sure you've all encountered this problem, and therefore may have >>> > > a >>> > > quick >>> > > fix or two. >>> > > >>> > > i'm replacing all the hinges, catches, loops and mirrors on a 93 YJ >>> > > with >>> > > SS >>> > > pieces replacing the original pieces. >>> > > >>> > > took my torx heads and wrench, took one out no problem. >>> > > >>> > > next one ended up stripped..and the next one...managed to get them >>> > > all >>> > > back >>> > > in til i fix this dilema. i used small movements, wasn't trying to >>> > > take >>> > > the >>> > > screw out in one go...seems like the metal is so darn soft. >>> > > obviously i'm >>> > > going to be taking out about a dozen plus, so... >>> > > >>> > > any suggestions would be great. >>> > > >>> > > Steve >>> > > >>> > > >> > > |
#18
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In my experience, the paint must bubble before the thread sealer will
let go. I have tried a few times to 'save the paint' with no success at all. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Steve wrote: > > As far as saving the paint while using heat....could you put in the torx bit > and apply heat to the torx bit...would the heat transfer down the bolt? > how much heat do you need to get the loctite to loosen? > > "Dana Rohleder" > wrote in message > ... > > How did you go about applying heat without mangling the paint? Would the > > soldering iron method get it hot enough? If I remember correctly (this was > > a couple years ago) after my torx bit fiasco, I think I read somewhere > > that you didn't need to get the bolt really hot, but something like > > 150-200 degrees F and they would release, but I can't verify that. I just > > gave up and bought a $6 mirror and Velcro it to my rollbar whenever I take > > the doors off. And yes Bill, I do have to use doors occasionally up here > > when it gets below zero! > > -- > > Dana > > > > -- > > 93 YJ > > 90 XJ Ltd. > > --------------- > > 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd. > > 82 Cherokee > > 76 Cherokee > > > > > > "mic canic" > wrote in message > > ... > >> the left spin drill bits are the best way to if you can get the kit with > >> the > >> matching extractors but when push comes to shove > >> take a drill bit that is i/8 inch bigger than the torqs and drill it out > >> carefully > >> so it just pops thru the hole then there is enough hanging out from what > >> it > >> holding in.a good and new visegrip can get a bite and with a little heat > >> to > >> release the lock tight it will come out > >> > >> "L.W.(ßill) Hughes III" wrote: > >> > >>> Next time buy Craftsman or Snap-On. > >>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > >>> http://www.billhughes.com/ > >>> > >>> Dana Rohleder wrote: > >>> > > >>> > As Mike says, they are put on with a heat-activated thread sealer. I > >>> > tried > >>> > the impact wrench method suggested by Bill on my YJ - 5 broken torx > >>> > sockets > >>> > (replaced by NAPA under warranty) and 3 big gouges in my paint later, > >>> > I gave > >>> > up. I managed to get only one bolt out. Luckily, I didn't strip any > >>> > heads, > >>> > just broke the sockets - twisted the mothers right off. The thread > >>> > sealer is > >>> > evil stuff. Heat is likely the only way to get it off, but I don't > >>> > know how > >>> > you would do it and not ruin your paint. Possibly a soldering iron or > >>> > gun > >>> > held right on the head would create enough heat to melt it. You may > >>> > want to > >>> > talk to a Jeep body shop to see how they do it. > >>> > > >>> > Dana > >>> > 93 YJ > >>> > 90 XJ Ltd. > >>> > --------------- > >>> > 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd. > >>> > 82 Cherokee > >>> > 76 Cherokee > >>> > > >>> > "It's in our country's interests to find those who would do harm to us > >>> > and > >>> > get them out of harm's way." GW Bush -Washington, D.C., April 28, 2005 > >>> > "diablo" > wrote in message > >>> > ... > >>> > > Hi Guys, > >>> > > > >>> > > i'm sure you've all encountered this problem, and therefore may have > >>> > > a > >>> > > quick > >>> > > fix or two. > >>> > > > >>> > > i'm replacing all the hinges, catches, loops and mirrors on a 93 YJ > >>> > > with > >>> > > SS > >>> > > pieces replacing the original pieces. > >>> > > > >>> > > took my torx heads and wrench, took one out no problem. > >>> > > > >>> > > next one ended up stripped..and the next one...managed to get them > >>> > > all > >>> > > back > >>> > > in til i fix this dilema. i used small movements, wasn't trying to > >>> > > take > >>> > > the > >>> > > screw out in one go...seems like the metal is so darn soft. > >>> > > obviously i'm > >>> > > going to be taking out about a dozen plus, so... > >>> > > > >>> > > any suggestions would be great. > >>> > > > >>> > > Steve > >>> > > > >>> > > > >> > > > > |
#19
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Slice the paint with a razor first? Draw around the torx head?
"Mike Romain" > wrote in message ... > In my experience, the paint must bubble before the thread sealer will > let go. I have tried a few times to 'save the paint' with no success at > all. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > Steve wrote: >> >> As far as saving the paint while using heat....could you put in the torx >> bit >> and apply heat to the torx bit...would the heat transfer down the bolt? >> how much heat do you need to get the loctite to loosen? >> >> "Dana Rohleder" > wrote in message >> ... >> > How did you go about applying heat without mangling the paint? Would >> > the >> > soldering iron method get it hot enough? If I remember correctly (this >> > was >> > a couple years ago) after my torx bit fiasco, I think I read somewhere >> > that you didn't need to get the bolt really hot, but something like >> > 150-200 degrees F and they would release, but I can't verify that. I >> > just >> > gave up and bought a $6 mirror and Velcro it to my rollbar whenever I >> > take >> > the doors off. And yes Bill, I do have to use doors occasionally up >> > here >> > when it gets below zero! >> > -- >> > Dana >> > >> > -- >> > 93 YJ >> > 90 XJ Ltd. >> > --------------- >> > 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd. >> > 82 Cherokee >> > 76 Cherokee >> > >> > >> > "mic canic" > wrote in message >> > ... >> >> the left spin drill bits are the best way to if you can get the kit >> >> with >> >> the >> >> matching extractors but when push comes to shove >> >> take a drill bit that is i/8 inch bigger than the torqs and drill it >> >> out >> >> carefully >> >> so it just pops thru the hole then there is enough hanging out from >> >> what >> >> it >> >> holding in.a good and new visegrip can get a bite and with a little >> >> heat >> >> to >> >> release the lock tight it will come out >> >> >> >> "L.W.(ßill) Hughes III" wrote: >> >> >> >>> Next time buy Craftsman or Snap-On. >> >>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O >> >>> http://www.billhughes.com/ >> >>> >> >>> Dana Rohleder wrote: >> >>> > >> >>> > As Mike says, they are put on with a heat-activated thread sealer. >> >>> > I >> >>> > tried >> >>> > the impact wrench method suggested by Bill on my YJ - 5 broken torx >> >>> > sockets >> >>> > (replaced by NAPA under warranty) and 3 big gouges in my paint >> >>> > later, >> >>> > I gave >> >>> > up. I managed to get only one bolt out. Luckily, I didn't strip any >> >>> > heads, >> >>> > just broke the sockets - twisted the mothers right off. The thread >> >>> > sealer is >> >>> > evil stuff. Heat is likely the only way to get it off, but I don't >> >>> > know how >> >>> > you would do it and not ruin your paint. Possibly a soldering iron >> >>> > or >> >>> > gun >> >>> > held right on the head would create enough heat to melt it. You may >> >>> > want to >> >>> > talk to a Jeep body shop to see how they do it. >> >>> > >> >>> > Dana >> >>> > 93 YJ >> >>> > 90 XJ Ltd. >> >>> > --------------- >> >>> > 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd. >> >>> > 82 Cherokee >> >>> > 76 Cherokee >> >>> > >> >>> > "It's in our country's interests to find those who would do harm to >> >>> > us >> >>> > and >> >>> > get them out of harm's way." GW Bush -Washington, D.C., April 28, >> >>> > 2005 >> >>> > "diablo" > wrote in message >> >>> > ... >> >>> > > Hi Guys, >> >>> > > >> >>> > > i'm sure you've all encountered this problem, and therefore may >> >>> > > have >> >>> > > a >> >>> > > quick >> >>> > > fix or two. >> >>> > > >> >>> > > i'm replacing all the hinges, catches, loops and mirrors on a 93 >> >>> > > YJ >> >>> > > with >> >>> > > SS >> >>> > > pieces replacing the original pieces. >> >>> > > >> >>> > > took my torx heads and wrench, took one out no problem. >> >>> > > >> >>> > > next one ended up stripped..and the next one...managed to get >> >>> > > them >> >>> > > all >> >>> > > back >> >>> > > in til i fix this dilema. i used small movements, wasn't trying >> >>> > > to >> >>> > > take >> >>> > > the >> >>> > > screw out in one go...seems like the metal is so darn soft. >> >>> > > obviously i'm >> >>> > > going to be taking out about a dozen plus, so... >> >>> > > >> >>> > > any suggestions would be great. >> >>> > > >> >>> > > Steve >> >>> > > >> >>> > > >> >> >> > >> > |
#20
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That 'sure' helps the bit fit. I use a mini screwdriver to pick it
too. The thread sealer is on the inside of the body.... Mike Steve wrote: > > Slice the paint with a razor first? Draw around the torx head? > > "Mike Romain" > wrote in message > ... > > In my experience, the paint must bubble before the thread sealer will > > let go. I have tried a few times to 'save the paint' with no success at > > all. > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > Steve wrote: > >> > >> As far as saving the paint while using heat....could you put in the torx > >> bit > >> and apply heat to the torx bit...would the heat transfer down the bolt? > >> how much heat do you need to get the loctite to loosen? > >> > >> "Dana Rohleder" > wrote in message > >> ... > >> > How did you go about applying heat without mangling the paint? Would > >> > the > >> > soldering iron method get it hot enough? If I remember correctly (this > >> > was > >> > a couple years ago) after my torx bit fiasco, I think I read somewhere > >> > that you didn't need to get the bolt really hot, but something like > >> > 150-200 degrees F and they would release, but I can't verify that. I > >> > just > >> > gave up and bought a $6 mirror and Velcro it to my rollbar whenever I > >> > take > >> > the doors off. And yes Bill, I do have to use doors occasionally up > >> > here > >> > when it gets below zero! > >> > -- > >> > Dana > >> > > >> > -- > >> > 93 YJ > >> > 90 XJ Ltd. > >> > --------------- > >> > 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd. > >> > 82 Cherokee > >> > 76 Cherokee > >> > > >> > > >> > "mic canic" > wrote in message > >> > ... > >> >> the left spin drill bits are the best way to if you can get the kit > >> >> with > >> >> the > >> >> matching extractors but when push comes to shove > >> >> take a drill bit that is i/8 inch bigger than the torqs and drill it > >> >> out > >> >> carefully > >> >> so it just pops thru the hole then there is enough hanging out from > >> >> what > >> >> it > >> >> holding in.a good and new visegrip can get a bite and with a little > >> >> heat > >> >> to > >> >> release the lock tight it will come out > >> >> > >> >> "L.W.(ßill) Hughes III" wrote: > >> >> > >> >>> Next time buy Craftsman or Snap-On. > >> >>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > >> >>> http://www.billhughes.com/ > >> >>> > >> >>> Dana Rohleder wrote: > >> >>> > > >> >>> > As Mike says, they are put on with a heat-activated thread sealer. > >> >>> > I > >> >>> > tried > >> >>> > the impact wrench method suggested by Bill on my YJ - 5 broken torx > >> >>> > sockets > >> >>> > (replaced by NAPA under warranty) and 3 big gouges in my paint > >> >>> > later, > >> >>> > I gave > >> >>> > up. I managed to get only one bolt out. Luckily, I didn't strip any > >> >>> > heads, > >> >>> > just broke the sockets - twisted the mothers right off. The thread > >> >>> > sealer is > >> >>> > evil stuff. Heat is likely the only way to get it off, but I don't > >> >>> > know how > >> >>> > you would do it and not ruin your paint. Possibly a soldering iron > >> >>> > or > >> >>> > gun > >> >>> > held right on the head would create enough heat to melt it. You may > >> >>> > want to > >> >>> > talk to a Jeep body shop to see how they do it. > >> >>> > > >> >>> > Dana > >> >>> > 93 YJ > >> >>> > 90 XJ Ltd. > >> >>> > --------------- > >> >>> > 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd. > >> >>> > 82 Cherokee > >> >>> > 76 Cherokee > >> >>> > > >> >>> > "It's in our country's interests to find those who would do harm to > >> >>> > us > >> >>> > and > >> >>> > get them out of harm's way." GW Bush -Washington, D.C., April 28, > >> >>> > 2005 > >> >>> > "diablo" > wrote in message > >> >>> > ... > >> >>> > > Hi Guys, > >> >>> > > > >> >>> > > i'm sure you've all encountered this problem, and therefore may > >> >>> > > have > >> >>> > > a > >> >>> > > quick > >> >>> > > fix or two. > >> >>> > > > >> >>> > > i'm replacing all the hinges, catches, loops and mirrors on a 93 > >> >>> > > YJ > >> >>> > > with > >> >>> > > SS > >> >>> > > pieces replacing the original pieces. > >> >>> > > > >> >>> > > took my torx heads and wrench, took one out no problem. > >> >>> > > > >> >>> > > next one ended up stripped..and the next one...managed to get > >> >>> > > them > >> >>> > > all > >> >>> > > back > >> >>> > > in til i fix this dilema. i used small movements, wasn't trying > >> >>> > > to > >> >>> > > take > >> >>> > > the > >> >>> > > screw out in one go...seems like the metal is so darn soft. > >> >>> > > obviously i'm > >> >>> > > going to be taking out about a dozen plus, so... > >> >>> > > > >> >>> > > any suggestions would be great. > >> >>> > > > >> >>> > > Steve > >> >>> > > > >> >>> > > > >> >> > >> > > >> > |
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