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THANKS TO JIM!



 
 
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  #1  
Old February 1st 05, 06:43 PM
Teleplus Gatineau
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Posts: n/a
Default THANKS TO JIM!

I THINK WE SHOULD ALL PUT OUT A HUGE ROUND OF APPLAUSE TO JIM. ANY OF YOU WHO READ THIS FORUM DAILY WOULD KNOW THAT JIM IS A HUGE HELP TO EVERY QUESTION WE EVER ASK... AND HE SEEMS TO ALWAYS BE RIGHT!

THANKS FOR EVERYTHING JIM.


--
-Andy
99 Ford Explorer XLT
www.cardomain.com/id/andylabelle


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  #2  
Old February 3rd 05, 04:39 AM
Jim Warman
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I've never been able to get a good grip on the return springs with the axle
flange in the way. I just bite the bullet and pull the axles. This was does
a lot to relieve the frustration factor.

Good time to change out axle seals and gear oil, too.


"Sid Daley" > wrote in message
et...
> Everybody's loving you Jim, and while I have your attention do you have
> any tips for changing the emergency brakes on a 97. I prefer to not have
> to pull the axle. I've heard it's a real bi*** of a job and am not
> really looking forward to it.
>
> Thanks
> Sid
>



  #3  
Old February 3rd 05, 05:46 PM
Sid Daley
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Thanks Jim, I guess once the axles are out it's a breeze.

Sid

In article <H1hMd.99397$Qb.25372@edtnps89>,
says...
> I've never been able to get a good grip on the return springs with the axle
> flange in the way. I just bite the bullet and pull the axles. This was does
> a lot to relieve the frustration factor.
>
> Good time to change out axle seals and gear oil, too.

  #4  
Old February 5th 05, 11:43 PM
Just_Steve
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I've replaced them myself on my '96, and while the procedure is pretty
similar to any other drum type brake shoe replacement, Jim is right that it
is definitely a very frustrating exercise. I did it without pulling the
axle, mostly because I never thought of doing that and would probably have
been too intimidated to try, seeing as how I've never done anything like
that before (but had done drum brakes before). Thinking back, I remember
wondering at the time (after I'd already taken everything apart and was
trying to put it back together) if I was going to have to have it towed in
so a "real mechanic" could put it all back together. Finally did get it all
back together, but I remember it being a long and frustrating afternoon -
and a real incentive to never again forget to check the emer brake before
driving off... I don't normally use it in the garage, but the wife had
driven the car and out of habit put the brake on, not very tightly, when she
parked it. I was a couple of miles down the road before I noticed the brake
light on, and by that time they'd heated up pretty good and the linings were
cracked (they might even have cracks normally, but I wasn't sure so I
replaced them). If I had it to do again, I'd definitely be looking into the
axle pulling option, cause the springs were real buggers to get back on.

Steve

"Jim Warman" > wrote in message
news:H1hMd.99397$Qb.25372@edtnps89...
> I've never been able to get a good grip on the return springs with the

axle
> flange in the way. I just bite the bullet and pull the axles. This was

does
> a lot to relieve the frustration factor.
>
> Good time to change out axle seals and gear oil, too.
>
>
> "Sid Daley" > wrote in message
> et...
> > Everybody's loving you Jim, and while I have your attention do you have
> > any tips for changing the emergency brakes on a 97. I prefer to not have
> > to pull the axle. I've heard it's a real bi*** of a job and am not
> > really looking forward to it.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Sid
> >

>
>



  #5  
Old February 6th 05, 06:13 PM
Sid Daley
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Hi Steve, the general consensus is that it's a real bear of a job. I've
decided if I'm going to do it I'll pull the axles. I've been told that
you need special tools to pull the seals and it's really looking like I
should just bite the bullet and pay the piper.. LOL

Sid

In article <r_bNd.3355$Cs.349@okepread02>,
says...
> I've replaced them myself on my '96, and while the procedure is pretty
> similar to any other drum type brake shoe replacement, Jim is right that it
> is definitely a very frustrating exercise. I did it without pulling the
> axle, mostly because I never thought of doing that and would probably have
> been too intimidated to try, seeing as how I've never done anything like
> that before (but had done drum brakes before). Thinking back, I remember
> wondering at the time (after I'd already taken everything apart and was
> trying to put it back together) if I was going to have to have it towed in
> so a "real mechanic" could put it all back together. Finally did get it all
> back together, but I remember it being a long and frustrating afternoon -
> and a real incentive to never again forget to check the emer brake before
> driving off... I don't normally use it in the garage, but the wife had
> driven the car and out of habit put the brake on, not very tightly, when she
> parked it. I was a couple of miles down the road before I noticed the brake
> light on, and by that time they'd heated up pretty good and the linings were
> cracked (they might even have cracks normally, but I wasn't sure so I
> replaced them). If I had it to do again, I'd definitely be looking into the
> axle pulling option, cause the springs were real buggers to get back on.
>
> Steve
>
> "Jim Warman" > wrote in message
> news:H1hMd.99397$Qb.25372@edtnps89...
> > I've never been able to get a good grip on the return springs with the

> axle
> > flange in the way. I just bite the bullet and pull the axles. This was

> does
> > a lot to relieve the frustration factor.
> >
> > Good time to change out axle seals and gear oil, too.
> >
> >
> > "Sid Daley" > wrote in message
> > et...
> > > Everybody's loving you Jim, and while I have your attention do you have
> > > any tips for changing the emergency brakes on a 97. I prefer to not have
> > > to pull the axle. I've heard it's a real bi*** of a job and am not
> > > really looking forward to it.
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > Sid
> > >

> >
> >

>
>
>

  #6  
Old February 6th 05, 07:57 PM
Jim Warman
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

You can use a gooseneck crowbar to pull the seals if you work carefully....
I've seen techs and DIYers use the axle (shudder) to pop the seal but this
introduces stress to the C-clip groove that were not intended in the
original design. I have seen this area of the axle break off at the most
inopportune time allowing the axle to walk out. On drum brake rears, this
could be disasterous to your health... on disc break rears this can be
disasterous to your wallet.

Choose a bar that has little flex.... position it as far under the inner lip
of the seal as possible. Move the bar so as to contact the far side of the
axle tube firmly (you don't want to "hammer" against the tube) and give two
or three sharp thrusts.... This should release the old seal. There will be
some sealnt left in the seal bore... be sure to remove this ( a utility
knife works well) to avoid having it contaminate the bearing. I like to
squeeze a little wheel bearing grease into the axle bearing after I inspect
it.

While the axle is out, inspect the seal and bearing surfaces carefully.
There are "axle saver" bearing kits available... Federal Mogul markets one
that I have used in the past. I am not completely satisfied with these...
their lifespan is short when compared to the stock arrangement and I'm not
satisfied that their isn't the chance for housing damage. If my customer is
in a delicate financial situation, I will gamble but I try to be sure that I
explain my experience and my fears clearly. I have seen one where reverting
to factory style installation has given me a seal that isn't as tight as it
could be.

When removing the axles... the lock bolt for the spider pin can be
difficult... use a good quality 6 point wrench... apply force in the "off"
direction (lefty loosey, righty tighty) and deliver a couple of sharp blows
from the heal of your hand... this is probably gonna tingle but at least now
you know a bit of what I go through. On installation, clean the thread with
brake cleaner and apply a dab of blue lok-tite. Be sure the bolt is
adequately torqued. I have seen these bolts back out - a loose spider pin
can have you eating Kraft dinner for a long, long time.

Having said that, the whole operation is about a 3 or 4 on a 5 scale.


"Sid Daley" > wrote in message
et...
> Hi Steve, the general consensus is that it's a real bear of a job. I've
> decided if I'm going to do it I'll pull the axles. I've been told that
> you need special tools to pull the seals and it's really looking like I
> should just bite the bullet and pay the piper.. LOL
>
> Sid
>
> In article <r_bNd.3355$Cs.349@okepread02>,
> says...
> > I've replaced them myself on my '96, and while the procedure is pretty
> > similar to any other drum type brake shoe replacement, Jim is right that

it
> > is definitely a very frustrating exercise. I did it without pulling the
> > axle, mostly because I never thought of doing that and would probably

have
> > been too intimidated to try, seeing as how I've never done anything like
> > that before (but had done drum brakes before). Thinking back, I

remember
> > wondering at the time (after I'd already taken everything apart and was
> > trying to put it back together) if I was going to have to have it towed

in
> > so a "real mechanic" could put it all back together. Finally did get it

all
> > back together, but I remember it being a long and frustrating

afternoon -
> > and a real incentive to never again forget to check the emer brake

before
> > driving off... I don't normally use it in the garage, but the wife had
> > driven the car and out of habit put the brake on, not very tightly, when

she
> > parked it. I was a couple of miles down the road before I noticed the

brake
> > light on, and by that time they'd heated up pretty good and the linings

were
> > cracked (they might even have cracks normally, but I wasn't sure so I
> > replaced them). If I had it to do again, I'd definitely be looking into

the
> > axle pulling option, cause the springs were real buggers to get back on.
> >
> > Steve
> >
> > "Jim Warman" > wrote in message
> > news:H1hMd.99397$Qb.25372@edtnps89...
> > > I've never been able to get a good grip on the return springs with the

> > axle
> > > flange in the way. I just bite the bullet and pull the axles. This was

> > does
> > > a lot to relieve the frustration factor.
> > >
> > > Good time to change out axle seals and gear oil, too.
> > >
> > >
> > > "Sid Daley" > wrote in message
> > > et...
> > > > Everybody's loving you Jim, and while I have your attention do you

have
> > > > any tips for changing the emergency brakes on a 97. I prefer to not

have
> > > > to pull the axle. I've heard it's a real bi*** of a job and am not
> > > > really looking forward to it.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks
> > > > Sid
> > > >
> > >
> > >

> >
> >
> >



  #7  
Old February 7th 05, 05:47 AM
Sid Daley
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Thanks for such a concise and clear explanation, I have come to the
conclusion that if I must remove axles it falls outside of my DIY
mechanical skills. I am however going to attempt to repair the e-brakes
according to the instructions culled from the Ford technical CD.

Thanks Jim
Sid

In article <7MtNd.8920$K54.6696@edtnps84>,
says...
> You can use a gooseneck crowbar to pull the seals if you work carefully....
> I've seen techs and DIYers use the axle (shudder) to pop the seal but this
> introduces stress to the C-clip groove that were not intended in the
> original design. I have seen this area of the axle break off at the most
> inopportune time allowing the axle to walk out. On drum brake rears, this
> could be disasterous to your health... on disc break rears this can be
> disasterous to your wallet.
>
> Choose a bar that has little flex.... position it as far under the inner lip
> of the seal as possible. Move the bar so as to contact the far side of the
> axle tube firmly (you don't want to "hammer" against the tube) and give two
> or three sharp thrusts.... This should release the old seal. There will be
> some sealnt left in the seal bore... be sure to remove this ( a utility
> knife works well) to avoid having it contaminate the bearing. I like to
> squeeze a little wheel bearing grease into the axle bearing after I inspect
> it.
>
> While the axle is out, inspect the seal and bearing surfaces carefully.
> There are "axle saver" bearing kits available... Federal Mogul markets one
> that I have used in the past. I am not completely satisfied with these...
> their lifespan is short when compared to the stock arrangement and I'm not
> satisfied that their isn't the chance for housing damage. If my customer is
> in a delicate financial situation, I will gamble but I try to be sure that I
> explain my experience and my fears clearly. I have seen one where reverting
> to factory style installation has given me a seal that isn't as tight as it
> could be.
>
> When removing the axles... the lock bolt for the spider pin can be
> difficult... use a good quality 6 point wrench... apply force in the "off"
> direction (lefty loosey, righty tighty) and deliver a couple of sharp blows
> from the heal of your hand... this is probably gonna tingle but at least now
> you know a bit of what I go through. On installation, clean the thread with
> brake cleaner and apply a dab of blue lok-tite. Be sure the bolt is
> adequately torqued. I have seen these bolts back out - a loose spider pin
> can have you eating Kraft dinner for a long, long time.
>
> Having said that, the whole operation is about a 3 or 4 on a 5 scale.
>
>
> "Sid Daley" > wrote in message
> et...
> > Hi Steve, the general consensus is that it's a real bear of a job. I've
> > decided if I'm going to do it I'll pull the axles. I've been told that
> > you need special tools to pull the seals and it's really looking like I
> > should just bite the bullet and pay the piper.. LOL
> >
> > Sid
> >
> > In article <r_bNd.3355$Cs.349@okepread02>,

> > says...

  #8  
Old February 11th 05, 06:04 AM
Sid Daley
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default


Very easy job, a little tight but with right tools no need to
remove the axles at all to fix the e-brakes..

Sid
  #9  
Old February 12th 05, 05:38 AM
Just_Steve
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Glad it worked out for you Sid. Did you end up purchasing any special tools
to do it? I have the standard drum brake pliers type multi tool dealie, but
couldn't seem to find a way to get it help put the springs back on.

"Sid Daley" > wrote in message
et...
>
> Very easy job, a little tight but with right tools no need to
> remove the axles at all to fix the e-brakes..
>
> Sid



 




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