Super Beetle Body Holder ( say that fast )

Does anyone have any pictures or diagrams of something good for setting
the body of my super beetle on. I was going to just build a square
frame out of wood and put some casters on it, but the drivers side
rocker is shot and I'm not sure how well it would set on there, and
I'll need to get at the spot to weld in the new metal.

This is my first body off with a beetle so I'm into some new territory
here.

Thanks in advance for any replies.



Jason


69 Convertible ( autostick )
72 Super ( manual )

On 11 Jan 2007 08:37:25 -0800, "JJW69Bug" > wrote:

>Does anyone have any pictures or diagrams of something good for setting
>the body of my super beetle on. I was going to just build a square
>frame out of wood and put some casters on it, but the drivers side
>rocker is shot and I'm not sure how well it would set on there, and
>I'll need to get at the spot to weld in the new metal.

I would replace the rusty heater channel before removing the body. At
least then there is some strength in the car and it is less likely to
flex.

When replacing the channel, brace the doors too.
--
Howard Rose
www.howard81.co.uk
1966 Volkswagen 1300 Deluxe
1975 Volkswagen 1303S
1962 Austin Mini Seven

"Howard Rose" > wrote in message
...
> On 11 Jan 2007 08:37:25 -0800, "JJW69Bug" > wrote:
>
> >Does anyone have any pictures or diagrams of something good for setting
> >the body of my super beetle on. I was going to just build a square
> >frame out of wood and put some casters on it, but the drivers side
> >rocker is shot and I'm not sure how well it would set on there, and
> >I'll need to get at the spot to weld in the new metal.
>
> I would replace the rusty heater channel before removing the body. At
> least then there is some strength in the car and it is less likely to
> flex.
>
> When replacing the channel, brace the doors too.
> --
> Howard Rose
> www.howard81.co.uk
> 1966 Volkswagen 1300 Deluxe
> 1975 Volkswagen 1303S
> 1962 Austin Mini Seven

I have read recently on VZi, which obviously doesn't mean it true, that
people are doing heater channels without the firm bracing across door before
cutting. They are suggesting something along the lines of extreme measuring
to get the body straight.....scares me though

James

When I did mine - I braced it when the body was off - then I cut the old
heater chanel out - bolted the new chanel to the floor - lowerd the body
back on - removed the brace - 'ajusted' things until everything fitted
properly (like the door and posts) - then I tacked the chanel to the posts -
unbolted from the floor - raised the body again and welded fully.

worked a treat !

Rich
"Juper Wort" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Howard Rose" > wrote in message
> ...
>> On 11 Jan 2007 08:37:25 -0800, "JJW69Bug" > wrote:
>>
>> >Does anyone have any pictures or diagrams of something good for setting
>> >the body of my super beetle on. I was going to just build a square
>> >frame out of wood and put some casters on it, but the drivers side
>> >rocker is shot and I'm not sure how well it would set on there, and
>> >I'll need to get at the spot to weld in the new metal.
>>
>> I would replace the rusty heater channel before removing the body. At
>> least then there is some strength in the car and it is less likely to
>> flex.
>>
>> When replacing the channel, brace the doors too.
>> --
>> Howard Rose
>> www.howard81.co.uk
>> 1966 Volkswagen 1300 Deluxe
>> 1975 Volkswagen 1303S
>> 1962 Austin Mini Seven
>
> I have read recently on VZi, which obviously doesn't mean it true, that
> people are doing heater channels without the firm bracing across door
> before
> cutting. They are suggesting something along the lines of extreme
> measuring
> to get the body straight.....scares me though
>
> James
>
>

tricky wrote:
> When I did mine - I braced it when the body was off - then I cut the old
> heater chanel out - bolted the new chanel to the floor - lowerd the body
> back on - removed the brace - 'ajusted' things until everything fitted
> properly (like the door and posts) - then I tacked the chanel to the posts -
> unbolted from the floor - raised the body again and welded fully.
>
> worked a treat !
>
> Rich

I've braced my door by welding a steel brace in the opening - it is
welded on one side but bolted to the seat belt mount.
The middle of this brace has turnbuckle so I can fine tune the opening.

Initially, with the bottom of my driver's post rotted out, I couldn't
properly close the door. With this turnbuckle and a floor jack, I'm
pretty sure I can get it back in line when the channels are back in.

The body is sitting on large dolly made out of some 2x6 lumber. Most of
the weight is supported just under the door posts.

Remco

> "Juper Wort" > wrote in message
> ...
> >
> > "Howard Rose" > wrote in message
> > ...
> >> On 11 Jan 2007 08:37:25 -0800, "JJW69Bug" > wrote:
> >>
> >> >Does anyone have any pictures or diagrams of something good for setting
> >> >the body of my super beetle on. I was going to just build a square
> >> >frame out of wood and put some casters on it, but the drivers side
> >> >rocker is shot and I'm not sure how well it would set on there, and
> >> >I'll need to get at the spot to weld in the new metal.
> >>
> >> I would replace the rusty heater channel before removing the body. At
> >> least then there is some strength in the car and it is less likely to
> >> flex.
> >>
> >> When replacing the channel, brace the doors too.
> >> --
> >> Howard Rose
> >> www.howard81.co.uk
> >> 1966 Volkswagen 1300 Deluxe
> >> 1975 Volkswagen 1303S
> >> 1962 Austin Mini Seven
> >
> > I have read recently on VZi, which obviously doesn't mean it true, that
> > people are doing heater channels without the firm bracing across door
> > before
> > cutting. They are suggesting something along the lines of extreme
> > measuring
> > to get the body straight.....scares me though
> >
> > James
> >
> >

If you'r doing "off pan" work on your body you may find something
along the lines of the rotisserie I put togeather to rebuild our Jeep
useful-

http://users.eastlink.ca/~howarde/WhirlyJig.html

It works great for Tonka, whos in a far greater state of diss-assembly
than any bug is likely to ever be. I think it would work pretty well
for working on a VW, should be easy to get/keep everything straight on
it.

H.