Broken Spark Plug - Need help fast

Penetrating oil periodically for 3 days, tap-tap-tap with hammer and
drift, electronics chiller/ice on shell only, catch upper edge with
chisel and drive around CCW.

Man, you've been getting some dangerous advice.


Don't use an oxy torch to heat steel to cherry red while it's sitting
in an aluminum head. By the time the steel heats, you will melt the
aluminum. Period. Steel reaches cherry at aout 2300 degrees, most
aluminum alloys melt at about 1800 degrees. See the problem?

Anti sieze WILL change the heat range characteristics, you are placing
an insulator in a joint meant to transfer heat. It won't be critical
unless you're racing, but it will change. A real mechanic will never
do it.

Kroil, a little heat (not oxy-acetylene) and tapping on the plug
remains along with a properly sized east-out will do it.
Repeat the oil/heat/tapping cycle as necessary. Be patient.
Driving CCW with a chisel will work well. Use a sharp chisel & make
sure you're only driving the plug. Don't distort the threads in the
head.
Be very careful on the soft aluminum.

Joe

On 27 Jan 2005 12:55:24 -0800, "Misterbeets"
> wrote:

>Penetrating oil periodically for 3 days, tap-tap-tap with hammer and
>drift, electronics chiller/ice on shell only, catch upper edge with
>chisel and drive around CCW.

> Don't use an oxy torch to heat steel to cherry red while it's sitting
> in an aluminum head.

EVERYBODY STOP WITH THE DAMN ALUMINUM HEADS!!!

It's a '96 Dodge 360, fer cryin' out loud... good ol'-fashioned american
cast iron

"Joe" > wrote in message
...
> Man, you've been getting some dangerous advice.
>
>
> Don't use an oxy torch to heat steel to cherry red while it's sitting
> in an aluminum head. By the time the steel heats, you will melt the
> aluminum. Period. Steel reaches cherry at aout 2300 degrees, most
> aluminum alloys melt at about 1800 degrees. See the problem?
>
> Anti sieze WILL change the heat range characteristics, you are placing
> an insulator in a joint meant to transfer heat. It won't be critical
> unless you're racing, but it will change. A real mechanic will never
> do it.
>
I'm a real mechanic and I always do it. Even on racing engines. What part of
anti-sieze is an insulator?
I put anti-sieze on wheel studs and bolts too.

Chas Hurst


> Kroil, a little heat (not oxy-acetylene) and tapping on the plug
> remains along with a properly sized east-out will do it.
> Repeat the oil/heat/tapping cycle as necessary. Be patient.
> Driving CCW with a chisel will work well. Use a sharp chisel & make
> sure you're only driving the plug. Don't distort the threads in the
> head.
> Be very careful on the soft aluminum.
>
> Joe
>
> On 27 Jan 2005 12:55:24 -0800, "Misterbeets"
> > wrote:
>
> >Penetrating oil periodically for 3 days, tap-tap-tap with hammer and
> >drift, electronics chiller/ice on shell only, catch upper edge with
> >chisel and drive around CCW.
>

In article >,
Joe > wrote:

> Man, you've been getting some dangerous advice.
>
>
> Don't use an oxy torch to heat steel to cherry red while it's sitting
> in an aluminum head. By the time the steel heats, you will melt the
> aluminum. Period. Steel reaches cherry at aout 2300 degrees, most
> aluminum alloys melt at about 1800 degrees. See the problem?

The aluminum will not melt from using a O/A torch to heat the
plug shell, aluminum dissipates heat much to quickly to melt it
with a torch, but it really doesn't matter in this case because
the OPs truck doesn't have aluminum cylinder heads, at least it
didn't leave the factory that way.

Chas Hurst wrote:

> I'm a real mechanic

What ................. you mean there are fictional mechanics out
there..........

Jerry

"Jerry" > wrote in message
nk.net...
> Chas Hurst wrote:
>
> > I'm a real mechanic
>
> What ................. you mean there are fictional mechanics out
> there..........
>
> Jerry

Well you have lead a sheltered life.

On Fri, 28 Jan 2005, Joe wrote:

> Anti sieze WILL change the heat range characteristics, you are placing
> an insulator in a joint meant to transfer heat.

Blah blah blahbitty blah blah, BS BS BS.

And sawdust in auto transmissions to stop slipping too, I'll bet.
Glad you don't work on my cars., Shadetree.

On Thu, 27 Jan 2005 21:32:42 -0500, "Chas Hurst" >
wrote:


>>
>I'm a real mechanic and I always do it. Even on racing engines. What part of
>anti-sieze is an insulator?
>I put anti-sieze on wheel studs and bolts too.
>
>Chas Hurst
>

Chas Hurst wrote:
> "Jerry" > wrote in message
> nk.net...
>
>>Chas Hurst wrote:
>>
>>
>>>I'm a real mechanic
>>
>>What ................. you mean there are fictional mechanics out
>>there..........
>>
>>Jerry
>
>
> Well you have lead a sheltered life.
>
>

Hmmmmmmm ................ guess it flew right over.

Jerry