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How many bubbles per minute?



 
 
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  #11  
Old November 20th 03, 05:44 AM
Mort
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default How many bubbles per minute?


"RedForeman " wrote in message
...

"coelacanth" wrote in message
. com...

I just finished testing the water.

KH is at 0 (is that good) pH is lower than 6.0 (so it would seem) as

the
sample turned a dark yellow. I decided to test my GH while I was at

it
and
that turned out to be 3-4.

I havent had time to check out Chucks chart but I will do that ASAP.

~Mort


According to Chuck's page, CO2 is calculated like this:

CO2 (in PPM) = 3 * KH * 10^(pH-7)

if your KH is really 0, then you have no buffering capacity
and your CO2 will be very low (I doubt it's actually 0).
Anyway, you may want to increase your buffering capacity.

-coelacanth


Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you are running without a buffer, and a

low
CO2, you run the risk of having a pH crash do you not??? meaning, without
the buffer, the pH will drop even lower when the lights are off, and
photosynthesis takes place, (that is if the testing was done with lights

on,
while pH was at it's highest) otherwise at night, the pH will drop after
photosynthesis takes place...

My only experience in a pH crash was after I did a 40-50% water change

after
a new planting when water was dirty.... After adding the water, I forgot

to
add buffer(salts) and when it was all said and done, the tank had crashed
and I lost 5 fish that morning.... after looking at it, I realized I

hadn't
buffered it to help pull the pH back up after the waterchange, and add CO2
to it, after lights off, pH dropped so fast, they didn't have a chance....
made me very sad....

Please correct me if I'm wrong or just misguided....




I dont know man! I am used to Cichlids and sal****er. This stuff is all
new to me.

All I can tell you is that in the past, I have not been able to keep neons
or cardinals alive. I have 5 cards and one neon in there and they are doing
fine.

I am however, overdue for a water change. I will get to it this weekend for
sure.

Is buffering the RO/DI water enough or do I need to do something else to it?

TIA

~Mort



  #12  
Old November 20th 03, 11:24 AM
Happy'Cam'per
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default How many bubbles per minute?

Stop using RO for your plant tank. Your normal tap water will contain trace
elements that your plants could use. Just aerate it for a few hours b4 use
to rid the chlorine gasses.
--
**So long, and thanks for all the fish!**



"Mort" wrote in message
news

"RedForeman " wrote in message
...

"coelacanth" wrote in message
. com...

I just finished testing the water.

KH is at 0 (is that good) pH is lower than 6.0 (so it would seem) as

the
sample turned a dark yellow. I decided to test my GH while I was at

it
and
that turned out to be 3-4.

I havent had time to check out Chucks chart but I will do that ASAP.

~Mort


According to Chuck's page, CO2 is calculated like this:

CO2 (in PPM) = 3 * KH * 10^(pH-7)

if your KH is really 0, then you have no buffering capacity
and your CO2 will be very low (I doubt it's actually 0).
Anyway, you may want to increase your buffering capacity.

-coelacanth


Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you are running without a buffer, and a

low
CO2, you run the risk of having a pH crash do you not??? meaning,

without
the buffer, the pH will drop even lower when the lights are off, and
photosynthesis takes place, (that is if the testing was done with lights

on,
while pH was at it's highest) otherwise at night, the pH will drop after
photosynthesis takes place...

My only experience in a pH crash was after I did a 40-50% water change

after
a new planting when water was dirty.... After adding the water, I forgot

to
add buffer(salts) and when it was all said and done, the tank had

crashed
and I lost 5 fish that morning.... after looking at it, I realized I

hadn't
buffered it to help pull the pH back up after the waterchange, and add

CO2
to it, after lights off, pH dropped so fast, they didn't have a

chance....
made me very sad....

Please correct me if I'm wrong or just misguided....




I dont know man! I am used to Cichlids and sal****er. This stuff is all
new to me.

All I can tell you is that in the past, I have not been able to keep neons
or cardinals alive. I have 5 cards and one neon in there and they are

doing
fine.

I am however, overdue for a water change. I will get to it this weekend

for
sure.

Is buffering the RO/DI water enough or do I need to do something else to

it?

TIA

~Mort





  #13  
Old November 21st 03, 02:07 AM
Mort
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default How many bubbles per minute?

My tap water here in the city of Chicago has a very high pH and is very
hard. Eventually I want to keep discus in this tank. Also, I needed the
RO/DI unit for my reef tank so I figured I could use it on this tank as
well.

~Mort

"Happy'Cam'per" wrote in message
...
Stop using RO for your plant tank. Your normal tap water will contain

trace
elements that your plants could use. Just aerate it for a few hours b4 use
to rid the chlorine gasses.
--
**So long, and thanks for all the fish!**



"Mort" wrote in message
news

"RedForeman " wrote in message
...

"coelacanth" wrote in message
. com...

I just finished testing the water.

KH is at 0 (is that good) pH is lower than 6.0 (so it would seem)

as
the
sample turned a dark yellow. I decided to test my GH while I was

at
it
and
that turned out to be 3-4.

I havent had time to check out Chucks chart but I will do that

ASAP.

~Mort


According to Chuck's page, CO2 is calculated like this:

CO2 (in PPM) = 3 * KH * 10^(pH-7)

if your KH is really 0, then you have no buffering capacity
and your CO2 will be very low (I doubt it's actually 0).
Anyway, you may want to increase your buffering capacity.

-coelacanth

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you are running without a buffer, and

a
low
CO2, you run the risk of having a pH crash do you not??? meaning,

without
the buffer, the pH will drop even lower when the lights are off, and
photosynthesis takes place, (that is if the testing was done with

lights
on,
while pH was at it's highest) otherwise at night, the pH will drop

after
photosynthesis takes place...

My only experience in a pH crash was after I did a 40-50% water change

after
a new planting when water was dirty.... After adding the water, I

forgot
to
add buffer(salts) and when it was all said and done, the tank had

crashed
and I lost 5 fish that morning.... after looking at it, I realized I

hadn't
buffered it to help pull the pH back up after the waterchange, and add

CO2
to it, after lights off, pH dropped so fast, they didn't have a

chance....
made me very sad....

Please correct me if I'm wrong or just misguided....




I dont know man! I am used to Cichlids and sal****er. This stuff is

all
new to me.

All I can tell you is that in the past, I have not been able to keep

neons
or cardinals alive. I have 5 cards and one neon in there and they are

doing
fine.

I am however, overdue for a water change. I will get to it this weekend

for
sure.

Is buffering the RO/DI water enough or do I need to do something else to

it?

TIA

~Mort







  #14  
Old November 22nd 03, 03:43 AM
Djay
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default How many bubbles per minute?

Mort,

You SHOULD have a KH of around 2 ~ 3. That will act as a buffer if you want
to inject CO2 into your tank for your plants. The CO2 injection without the
KH as a buffer will CRASH your PH to a point where your tank may be too
acidic or have huge PH swings that are lower than your detectable limits of
your test kit. The way to increase your KH is to use the RO/DI and (yes)
add some tap water to it to get the desired KH level. Remember 0 KH reading
is a PH disaster waiting to happen.

DJay


"Mort" wrote in message
. com...
My tap water here in the city of Chicago has a very high pH and is very
hard. Eventually I want to keep discus in this tank. Also, I needed the
RO/DI unit for my reef tank so I figured I could use it on this tank as
well.

~Mort

"Happy'Cam'per" wrote in message
...
Stop using RO for your plant tank. Your normal tap water will contain

trace
elements that your plants could use. Just aerate it for a few hours b4

use
to rid the chlorine gasses.
--
**So long, and thanks for all the fish!**



"Mort" wrote in message
news

"RedForeman " wrote in message
...

"coelacanth" wrote in message
. com...

I just finished testing the water.

KH is at 0 (is that good) pH is lower than 6.0 (so it would

seem)
as
the
sample turned a dark yellow. I decided to test my GH while I

was
at
it
and
that turned out to be 3-4.

I havent had time to check out Chucks chart but I will do that

ASAP.

~Mort


According to Chuck's page, CO2 is calculated like this:

CO2 (in PPM) = 3 * KH * 10^(pH-7)

if your KH is really 0, then you have no buffering capacity
and your CO2 will be very low (I doubt it's actually 0).
Anyway, you may want to increase your buffering capacity.

-coelacanth

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you are running without a buffer,

and
a
low
CO2, you run the risk of having a pH crash do you not??? meaning,

without
the buffer, the pH will drop even lower when the lights are off,

and
photosynthesis takes place, (that is if the testing was done with

lights
on,
while pH was at it's highest) otherwise at night, the pH will drop

after
photosynthesis takes place...

My only experience in a pH crash was after I did a 40-50% water

change
after
a new planting when water was dirty.... After adding the water, I

forgot
to
add buffer(salts) and when it was all said and done, the tank had

crashed
and I lost 5 fish that morning.... after looking at it, I realized I
hadn't
buffered it to help pull the pH back up after the waterchange, and

add
CO2
to it, after lights off, pH dropped so fast, they didn't have a

chance....
made me very sad....

Please correct me if I'm wrong or just misguided....




I dont know man! I am used to Cichlids and sal****er. This stuff is

all
new to me.

All I can tell you is that in the past, I have not been able to keep

neons
or cardinals alive. I have 5 cards and one neon in there and they are

doing
fine.

I am however, overdue for a water change. I will get to it this

weekend
for
sure.

Is buffering the RO/DI water enough or do I need to do something else

to
it?

TIA

~Mort









  #15  
Old November 22nd 03, 06:36 AM
Mort
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default How many bubbles per minute?


"Djay" wrote in message
...
Mort,

You SHOULD have a KH of around 2 ~ 3. That will act as a buffer if you

want
to inject CO2 into your tank for your plants. The CO2 injection without

the
KH as a buffer will CRASH your PH to a point where your tank may be too
acidic or have huge PH swings that are lower than your detectable limits

of
your test kit. The way to increase your KH is to use the RO/DI and (yes)
add some tap water to it to get the desired KH level. Remember 0 KH

reading
is a PH disaster waiting to happen.

DJay



Got it, thanks for the advice. I am going to set up my can for a batch of
RO/DI water right now and hopefully can to some water changes tomorrow.
I'll let ya know how it goes.

~Mort



  #16  
Old November 23rd 03, 12:56 AM
Mort
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default How many bubbles per minute?


"Mort" wrote in message
news
Hi all, I just finished my first DIY CO2 injection. I am having a little
trouble regulating the bubbles at such low rates. How many bubbles per
minute should I be going for? I have 6 bpm right now. Is that too many?

TIA

~Mort





Follow Up:

I did about a 30% water change today and I got my KH up to between 1 and 2.
pH is still 6.0 at the most...

~Mort



 




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