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Rear tow hook and trailer hitch



 
 
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  #11  
Old May 31st 05, 02:50 AM
Patrick Ô¿Ô
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I ment I might try to adapt the factory tow hook to the side of the frame
similar to the one you linked to.

Patrick
Ô¿Ô

"L.W. ("ßill") Hughes III" > wrote in message
...
> Fair warning.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> http://www.billhughes.com/
>
> "Patrick Ô¿Ô" wrote:
>>
>> I think I might adapt the factory rear tow hook
>> http://www.cityofvarnell.com/patrick...%20tow%20hook/
>>
>> Patrick
>> Ô¿Ô



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  #12  
Old May 31st 05, 12:25 PM
FrankW
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Hi Patrick
Let us know how it turns out.
It seems I'm in the same boat as you.
I just bought a SWB Rubicon and also
put a mopar trailer hitch on it.

Patrick Ô¿Ô wrote:

> I ment I might try to adapt the factory tow hook to the side of the frame
> similar to the one you linked to.
>
> Patrick
> Ô¿Ô
>
> "L.W. ("ßill") Hughes III" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>> Fair warning.
>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
http://www.billhughes.com/
>>
>>"Patrick Ô¿Ô" wrote:
>>
>>>I think I might adapt the factory rear tow hook
>>>http://www.cityofvarnell.com/patrick...%20tow%20hook/
>>>
>>>Patrick
>>>Ô¿Ô

>
>
>


  #13  
Old June 1st 05, 01:22 AM
Ed J.
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"Patrick Ô¿Ô" > wrote:

>I don't think that one will work. Here is are a couple pictures of how the
>hitch is mounted on the drivers side.
>http://www.cityofvarnell.com/patrick/trailer%20hitch/ . Any idea how I
>could reuse the factory tow hook? Any more sugestions?


Patrick - if you look at Stu's site you'll see that the lower/left
bolt on your hitch is the "existing" hole in the frame.
To do Stu's install, you need to drill the second hole, which will be
to the left and above the existing hole.
I have both a Draw-tite hitch and the hook as per Stu's setup. If
somebody wants to host the picture, I'll email a pic or two of my
setup.

I also have the Warn receiver shackle bracket. I don't see why that
would be any weaker than the regular hook - the hitch is attached with
4 bolts to both frame rails. It would seem to distribute the force
more evenly. Frankly, I was always a bit concerned about the angle of
the hook, in that the pull is applying a rotaional force in respect to
the bolts, rather than pulling in-line with them.

Make sure you use Grade 5 bolts too - not grade 8.

-Ed
  #14  
Old June 1st 05, 01:54 AM
DougW
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Ed J. did pass the time by typing:
> "Patrick Ô¿Ô" > wrote:
>
>> I don't think that one will work. Here is are a couple pictures of how the
>> hitch is mounted on the drivers side.
>> http://www.cityofvarnell.com/patrick/trailer%20hitch/ . Any idea how I
>> could reuse the factory tow hook? Any more sugestions?

>
> Patrick - if you look at Stu's site you'll see that the lower/left
> bolt on your hitch is the "existing" hole in the frame.
> To do Stu's install, you need to drill the second hole, which will be
> to the left and above the existing hole.
> I have both a Draw-tite hitch and the hook as per Stu's setup. If
> somebody wants to host the picture, I'll email a pic or two of my
> setup.


postmaster@ the domain in my sig

And I'll can either throw them in the temp directory
http://www.revbeergoggles.com/temp
or create a seperate one.

--
DougW
Head kook and bottle washer, revbeergoggles.com


  #15  
Old June 1st 05, 02:24 AM
Patrick Ô¿Ô
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Default

The hitch is held on by 6 bolts. two are underneath where the bumper is
connected to the frame. My only concern is having to use a spacer to makeup
the difference of the thickness of the hitch. I haven't had a chance to
look at the rear of the jeep again since the install, but will look again
tomorrow after work, if i get off before the sun sets. I might see if I can
mount it to the top of the frame just like it was on the bottom, that way it
will have a straight pull on the bolts. You can e-mail me pics if you would
like, I have no limit on my account. just remember to remove the spam.
also why use grade 5 bolts instead of 8?

Patrick
Ô¿Ô

"Ed J." > wrote in message
...
> "Patrick Ô¿Ô" > wrote:
>
>>I don't think that one will work. Here is are a couple pictures of how
>>the
>>hitch is mounted on the drivers side.
>>http://www.cityofvarnell.com/patrick/trailer%20hitch/ . Any idea how I
>>could reuse the factory tow hook? Any more sugestions?

>
> Patrick - if you look at Stu's site you'll see that the lower/left
> bolt on your hitch is the "existing" hole in the frame.
> To do Stu's install, you need to drill the second hole, which will be
> to the left and above the existing hole.
> I have both a Draw-tite hitch and the hook as per Stu's setup. If
> somebody wants to host the picture, I'll email a pic or two of my
> setup.
>
> I also have the Warn receiver shackle bracket. I don't see why that
> would be any weaker than the regular hook - the hitch is attached with
> 4 bolts to both frame rails. It would seem to distribute the force
> more evenly. Frankly, I was always a bit concerned about the angle of
> the hook, in that the pull is applying a rotaional force in respect to
> the bolts, rather than pulling in-line with them.
>
> Make sure you use Grade 5 bolts too - not grade 8.
>
> -Ed



  #16  
Old June 1st 05, 03:28 AM
Ed J.
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Posts: n/a
Default

"Patrick Ô¿Ô" wrote:

>The hitch is held on by 6 bolts. two are underneath where the bumper is
>connected to the frame. My only concern is having to use a spacer to makeup
>the difference of the thickness of the hitch.


I just used 2 washers as a spacer.


> I might see if I can mount it to the top of the frame just like it was on the bottom, that way it
>will have a straight pull on the bolts.


Don't think there's enough room on top of the frame rail.

>also why use grade 5 bolts instead of 8?


Grade 5's are better in shear applications. They'll tend to "give" a
bit before they fail, where 8's will just let go without warning.

I sent Doug some pics. the hook on there was $10 at Advance Auto. It's
the same as the ones I use on the front. It comes with gr. 5 bolts

hope that helps,
-Ed
  #17  
Old June 1st 05, 03:32 AM
DougW
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Posts: n/a
Default

Ed J. did pass the time by typing:
> "Patrick Ô¿Ô" wrote:
>
>> The hitch is held on by 6 bolts. two are underneath where the bumper is
>> connected to the frame. My only concern is having to use a spacer to makeup
>> the difference of the thickness of the hitch.

>
> I just used 2 washers as a spacer.
>
>
>> I might see if I can mount it to the top of the frame just like it was on
>> the bottom, that way it will have a straight pull on the bolts.

>
> Don't think there's enough room on top of the frame rail.
>
>> also why use grade 5 bolts instead of 8?

>
> Grade 5's are better in shear applications. They'll tend to "give" a
> bit before they fail, where 8's will just let go without warning.
>
> I sent Doug some pics. the hook on there was $10 at Advance Auto. It's
> the same as the ones I use on the front. It comes with gr. 5 bolts


Got em.

http://www.revbeergoggles.com/temp/hook01.jpg
http://www.revbeergoggles.com/temp/hook02.jpg

--
DougW


  #18  
Old June 1st 05, 03:40 AM
Patrick Ô¿Ô
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Thanks for the info, I will see what everything looks like in the daylight,
and probably listen to everyone and goto advance auto parts and spend $10.

Patrick
Ô¿Ô

"DougW" > wrote in message
news:I69ne.11166$Ri4.9397@okepread07...
> Ed J. did pass the time by typing:
>> "Patrick Ô¿Ô" wrote:
>>
>>> The hitch is held on by 6 bolts. two are underneath where the bumper is
>>> connected to the frame. My only concern is having to use a spacer to
>>> makeup
>>> the difference of the thickness of the hitch.

>>
>> I just used 2 washers as a spacer.
>>
>>
>>> I might see if I can mount it to the top of the frame just like it was
>>> on
>>> the bottom, that way it will have a straight pull on the bolts.

>>
>> Don't think there's enough room on top of the frame rail.
>>
>>> also why use grade 5 bolts instead of 8?

>>
>> Grade 5's are better in shear applications. They'll tend to "give" a
>> bit before they fail, where 8's will just let go without warning.
>>
>> I sent Doug some pics. the hook on there was $10 at Advance Auto. It's
>> the same as the ones I use on the front. It comes with gr. 5 bolts

>
> Got em.
>
> http://www.revbeergoggles.com/temp/hook01.jpg
> http://www.revbeergoggles.com/temp/hook02.jpg
>
> --
> DougW
>



  #19  
Old June 1st 05, 08:58 AM
Dave Milne
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Posts: n/a
Default

I got 2 pieces of metal cut from billet by an engineering shop which fitted
over the tow hitch like an 'no' in shape, and put a 19mm / 3/4" shackle
through the hole. I replaced all of the 6 bolts holding on the tow hitch
with grade 8 ones.

Here's a bad pic - sorry for the quality as I took it with my camera phone.

http://milne.info/download/shackle1.jpg
http://milne.info/download/shackle2.jpg
http://milne.info/download/shackle3.jpg
http://milne.info/download/shackle4.jpg

Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ

> > "Patrick Ô¿Ô" > wrote:

> I don't think that one will work. Here is are a couple pictures of how

the
> hitch is mounted on the drivers side.
> http://www.cityofvarnell.com/patrick/trailer%20hitch/ . Any idea how I
> could reuse the factory tow hook? Any more sugestions?



 




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