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My 1303 is half way through a body off resto
Floor pans are done I took the doors off. I will fix a brace across the door opening before I cut out the heater channels. (bugme dont leave the doors on ! ) I measured the hole offset from the tunnel to the floor pan holes and made sure the new ones went in the same place. I will 'loose' fit the heater channels and put the body on to line up the holes and door opening (as in the bugme vid's ) before I weld it good and proper (thats my plan anyway) I dont know what shape yours is in, but it took me more time to undo PO's bad repairs before I could separate the body. The heater channels were welded to the floor all the way round ! Some of the 17mm bolts that I removed 'span' in the chassis, so I guess I will have to weld new nuts to the body chassis points before I can bolt the rolling chassis back up. (dont know if you have the same bolts on a standard bug) be prepared for more work than you think. I am just about to replace the frame head. It looked ok before I could see it :-) . other bits and pieces - like the front and back valences were full of filler (bondo) etc. Mainly rusted nut/bolts/bleed nipples etc... are what slowed me down. Its not too bad when you get it separated and can see the task ahead ! Good luck, and if I can be of any help while the body is still off mine (photos etc. ), just ask ! Rich Remco wrote: > Hey Guys > > I am getting ready to do my first body off repair on my 75 regular bug > as it needs heater channels and floor panels. I'll also do some work on > the frame, brakes, etc. I'll take my time and will not be in a great > hurry to get it back together. > > Have read through several very helpful websites and googled the > subject. Watched the bugme video ad Nauseum, according to my wife > >>From what I've gathered, these are the most important points to > remember, but would like to know what you guys think: > > 1 - Don't open the doors - ever! I could just weld one spot to make > sure this won't happen, or could just lock the door. Welding is more > fun > 2 - Weld cross braces in the door openings before the body off is > attempted. > 3 - Be sure to line up the holes in the floor panel/heater channels. I > figure I'll make a template out of plyboard and index it to something > that won't change to make sure nothing moves. Not sure what a good > common index would be. > 4 - Learn to curse like a boatworker and blame stuff on your tools when > something goes wrong - got that covered > > Should I put a cross brace across the width of the bug? > I'd imagine that everything will start flopping around when the old > heater channels are cut out. Or should I not worry about that? (It > would be a pain to work around this brace, but that would be much > lessened by cursing like a boatworker). > > Any suggestions would be very much appreciated. > > Remco > |
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