I hate my 92 F150

In article .com>, Search4Lancer wrote:
> I hate my 92 F150... so much.

> Here's the problem I'm most concerned with: My clutch engages right off
> the floor. Causes me to stall quite a bit when pulling out. Quite
> annoying. What do you folks think the problem might be, and is it
> anything I could do anything about myself? I'm quite broke and quite in
> debt, so anything I can try myself would be best.

> All those other problems I'm having, for your amusement (or if you feel
> like taking a stab at any):
> Heater doesn't work (not fun in north central Pennsylvania)
> Front fuel pump no worky
> Rear fuel tank quite leaky - not dripping, but always wet, and I also
> saw it stringing down to the unoccupied spare holder the other day.


1) Try adjusting the clutch. It will either be the ford pull up on the
clutch pedal and push down affair like the mustang or there will be a
cable or linkage to adjust. About all you can do short of pulling off the
trans to see in there.

2) What's wrong with the heater? Blower motor? Resistor block? Check and
see which and replace. Should be cheap at a self serve junk yard.

3) Check to see if front and rear fuel pumps are the same. Swap them. Get
another rear tank and a fuel pump from the self serve junk yard and swap
them in.

Not only is a self serve yard cheap, you learn how to do the job on junk
car and make the mistakes there.

>
>
> 1) Try adjusting the clutch. It will either be the ford pull up on the
> clutch pedal and push down affair like the mustang or there will be a
> cable or linkage to adjust. About all you can do short of pulling off the
> trans to see in there.
No adjustments on a Ford clutch - Sounds like the pressure plate ie weak


>
> 3) Check to see if front and rear fuel pumps are the same. Swap them. Get
> another rear tank and a fuel pump from the self serve junk yard and swap
> them in.

Personally, I'd check the power to to ft pump, if good put a new pump in
it--- not cheap, but the tank is a PITA to remove. I'd hate to do it for no
reason.


--
Stephen W. Hansen
ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
ASE Automobile Advanced Engine Performance
ASE Undercar Specialist

http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troub...l_obd_main.htm
http://www.troublecodes.net/technical/
http://www.familycar.com/Alignment.htm

In article >, Stephen H wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> 1) Try adjusting the clutch. It will either be the ford pull up on the
>> clutch pedal and push down affair like the mustang or there will be a
>> cable or linkage to adjust. About all you can do short of pulling off the
>> trans to see in there.

> No adjustments on a Ford clutch - Sounds like the pressure plate ie weak

Are you playing some sort of semantic game? Of course a cable/linkage
can be adjusted.

If it's a hydraulic clutch, then one needs to check the clutch master
cylinder and slave clyinder. I would start with the slave.

On Nov 10, 7:40 pm, Kevin Bottorff > wrote:

> you really must have checked it over good before buying it huh??? You
> apparently didn`t even look at it at all. so quit your bitching. you only
> have yourself to blame. KB

Gee Kevin, thanks for your oh-so-productive insight. Kind of hard for
me to check it over when I don't know a goddamn thing about cars. Not
everybody is a mechanic, dip****, and given the situation I was in at
the time this was absolutely the only choice I had. Excuse me for
trusting the mechanic my family's been with for longer than I can
remember.

> get a new mechanic.

I plan to.

> did he give you a _really_ and
> I stress __really__ good price.

$1300, if I recall correctly.

> 1) Try adjusting the clutch.

Tried pulling, etc, no go. Have yet to find where to bleed it, too.

> 2) What's wrong with the heater?

Blows cold air... well, depending on the temp outside, of course. Other
than that, beats me.

> 3) Check to see if front and rear fuel pumps are the same. Swap them. Get
> another rear tank and a fuel pump from the self serve junk yard and swap
> them in.
> Not only is a self serve yard cheap, you learn how to do the job on junk
> car and make the mistakes there.

Smart thinking. At the very least, swap the pumps and use the front
tank. When I get home for Thanksgiving break, I'll have ramps to put it
up on, as well as the mechanically inclined guy living in my basement.
We'll see. Actually, now that I think of it, I believe the fuel pumps
are internal... least that's what I was told by a mechanic trying to
help me out on the road when I oh-so-rudely found out the front didn't
work.

Jake

>
>> No adjustments on a Ford clutch - Sounds like the pressure plate ie weak
>
> Are you playing some sort of semantic game? Of course a cable/linkage
> can be adjusted.
>
> If it's a hydraulic clutch, then one needs to check the clutch master
> cylinder and slave clyinder. I would start with the slave.
>
>

OK. Your Learning. A Ford Clutch is Hydraulic. There Is no adjustments from
the pedal to the Slave. Now get the clues. What causes the pedal to return?
the pressure plate. Ok now for more trivia. Where is the slave cylinder
located? Around the input shaft to the transmission. To replace it YOU HAVE
TO REMOVE THE TRANSMISSION! So at this point you think you might as well
replace the clutch, pressure plate, slave cylinder and throw out bearing.
Also, the hydraulic line is very difficult to remove and can be a b*tch to
bleed; in some cases the best option is prior to installing a hydraulic
system is to let it hang overnight MC up.
I've done two clutches on my own F-250 and several on other rigs.
Class dismissed.

--
Stephen W. Hansen
ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
ASE Automobile Advanced Engine Performance
ASE Undercar Specialist

http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troub...l_obd_main.htm
http://www.troublecodes.net/technical/
http://www.familycar.com/Alignment.htm

I will correct myself, A Ford Truck is hydrolic as the posters is.


--
Stephen W. Hansen
ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
ASE Automobile Advanced Engine Performance
ASE Undercar Specialist

http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troub...l_obd_main.htm
http://www.troublecodes.net/technical/
http://www.familycar.com/Alignment.htm

In article >, Stephen H wrote:
>
>
>>
>>> No adjustments on a Ford clutch - Sounds like the pressure plate ie weak
>>
>> Are you playing some sort of semantic game? Of course a cable/linkage
>> can be adjusted.
>>
>> If it's a hydraulic clutch, then one needs to check the clutch master
>> cylinder and slave clyinder. I would start with the slave.
>>
>>
>
> OK. Your Learning. A Ford Clutch is Hydraulic. There Is no adjustments from
> the pedal to the Slave. Now get the clues.

Thanks for reminding me why I left this group. Assholes like you. Since
you want to play exacting games like this, there are ford clutches
operated by cable and linkages, as are the two fords I own.

> What causes the pedal to return? the pressure plate.

Why don't you read the OP again... it's not a pedal return problem, but
an engagement location problem. Why don't you grow a ****ing clue.

> Ok now for more trivia. Where is the slave cylinder
> located? Around the input shaft to the transmission. To replace it YOU HAVE
> TO REMOVE THE TRANSMISSION! So at this point you think you might as well
> replace the clutch, pressure plate, slave cylinder and throw out bearing.

Maybe on _THAT_ vehicle. I've replaced a slave cylinder that was
external. I gave some general guidelines and you have to jump down my
throat about it. Why not just answer his post in more detailed manner
instead of being a ****ing asshole?

> Also, the hydraulic line is very difficult to remove and can be a b*tch to
> bleed; in some cases the best option is prior to installing a hydraulic
> system is to let it hang overnight MC up.
> I've done two clutches on my own F-250 and several on other rigs.
> Class dismissed.

Gee.... heaven forbid I give the guy some ideas with general knowledge.
**** this froup. Bunch of ****ing assholes in here still.

Brent P wrote:

> Thanks for reminding me why I left this group. Assholes like you. Since
> you want to play exacting games like this, there are ford clutches
> operated by cable and linkages, as are the two fords I own.

Is either of your vehicles a 1992 F150?

> > What causes the pedal to return? the pressure plate.
>
> Why don't you read the OP again... it's not a pedal return problem, but
> an engagement location problem. Why don't you grow a ****ing clue.

OK, here's a quote from one of the OP's posts...
On top of all that, as I was driving around town today, the clutch
pedal was hesitating to come back up. A few times, I had to pull it up
with my foot. It's also now getting tough to shift, and we're grinding
into reverse.

> Maybe on _THAT_ vehicle. I've replaced a slave cylinder that was
> external. I gave some general guidelines and you have to jump down my
> throat about it. Why not just answer his post in more detailed manner
> instead of being a ****ing asshole?

He *didn't* do a bad job of explaining it to the OP.

> > Also, the hydraulic line is very difficult to remove and can be a b*tch to
> > bleed; in some cases the best option is prior to installing a hydraulic
> > system is to let it hang overnight MC up.
> > I've done two clutches on my own F-250 and several on other rigs.
> > Class dismissed.

More truth from Stephen H. Unnecessary sass noted.

> Gee.... heaven forbid I give the guy some ideas with general knowledge.
> **** this froup. Bunch of ****ing assholes in here still.

If you were to replace every one of your profanities here with a small
byte of automotive knowledge, I think you would get Stephen H's point,
regardless of the tact he used.

Toyota MDT in MO

"Search4Lancer" > wrote in
oups.com:

> On Nov 10, 7:40 pm, Kevin Bottorff > wrote:
>
>> you really must have checked it over good before buying it huh???
>> You apparently didn`t even look at it at all. so quit your bitching.
>> you only have yourself to blame. KB
>
> Gee Kevin, thanks for your oh-so-productive insight. Kind of hard for
> me to check it over when I don't know a goddamn thing about cars. Not
> everybody is a mechanic, dip****, and given the situation I was in at
> the time this was absolutely the only choice I had. Excuse me for
> trusting the mechanic my family's been with for longer than I can
> remember.

But yet after you have a problem you can look under it and see some
problems???????? Its not that you don`t know **** about cars, it
appears you have no common since either. If you have known this guy that
long I would go back and try to get some compensation back, as he should
have been able to see it as a pile in the first place. if you don`t know
crap about cars you don`t get a old pile and then bitch when it breaks,
that is what old crap does. Asking for help is one thing, bitching about
your poor judgemnet is another. KB
>
>> get a new mechanic.
>
> I plan to.
>
>> did he give you a _really_ and
>> I stress __really__ good price.
>
> $1300, if I recall correctly.
>
>> 1) Try adjusting the clutch.
>
> Tried pulling, etc, no go. Have yet to find where to bleed it, too.
>
>> 2) What's wrong with the heater?
>
> Blows cold air... well, depending on the temp outside, of course.
> Other than that, beats me.
>
>> 3) Check to see if front and rear fuel pumps are the same. Swap them.
>> Get another rear tank and a fuel pump from the self serve junk yard
>> and swap them in.
>> Not only is a self serve yard cheap, you learn how to do the job on
>> junk car and make the mistakes there.
>
> Smart thinking. At the very least, swap the pumps and use the front
> tank. When I get home for Thanksgiving break, I'll have ramps to put
> it up on, as well as the mechanically inclined guy living in my
> basement. We'll see. Actually, now that I think of it, I believe the
> fuel pumps are internal... least that's what I was told by a mechanic
> trying to help me out on the road when I oh-so-rudely found out the
> front didn't work.
>
> Jake
>
>
>



--
Thunder Snake #9
"Protect" your rights or "lose" them.

> More truth from Stephen H. Unnecessary sass noted.
>
> Toyota MDT in MO
>

I do apologies for the unnecessary sass; his reply appeared not 7 minutes
after I posted the original reply and his opening sentence was
"Are you playing some sort of semantic game? Of course a cable/linkage can
be adjusted.
If it's a hydraulic clutch, then one needs to check the clutch master
cylinder and slave cylinder. I would start with the slave."

He was way off base and challenged my knowledge of Ford trucks- I was a bit
insulted. Anyway I appreciate your tact in the reply. I subscribe to these
newsgroups to help others. I feel we can always learn something.
I do appreciate your knowledge of cars and whenever I see your name I know
there is a logical reply behind it.
Take Care

Steve