Justifying an impact wrench for infrequent hobby use

On Wed, 11 Jul 2012 22:51:24 +0000 (UTC), Brent
> wrote:

>On 2012-07-11, Scott Dorsey > wrote:
>> Vic Smith > wrote:
>>>On Wed, 11 Jul 2012 02:27:07 -0700 (PDT), AD > wrote:
>>>
>>>>I'm toying with an idea of spending $200 on a battery powered impact
>>>>wrench (at sears.com or whatever).
>>>>Aside from prying off the wheel bolts any other uses you could come up
>>>>with to justyfy the purchase?
>>>>
>>>Unless you're somehow physically disabled, or dealing with corroded
>>>fasteners, it ain't worth dealing with the weight of it, and plugging
>>>it in. My opinion.
>>
>> It is, however, an absolute miracle for dealing with corroded fasteners. If
>> you ever do any suspension or exhaust work or if you ever do anything on an
>> Triumph or MG, it will pay for itself the first time you use it.
>
>An impact wrench designed for lug nuts and other large fasteners is
>usesless for the vast majority of corroded fasteners. It will break
>them. For that I purchased a corded impact driver.
>

My air impact has 4 settings. You can also limit power even more by
lowering the air pressure.

"m6onz5a" > wrote in message
...
On Jul 12, 3:33 pm, (Scott Dorsey) wrote:
> m6onz5a > wrote:
> >> sorry no. wd40 is a water dispersent not a penetrating oil. =A0KB
>
> >Straight from the WD40 bottle:
>
> >*stops squeaks
> >*removes & protects
> >* loosens Rusted Parts - to free stuck, corroded parts like *nuts,
> >*bolts, *valves, *locks
> >* Frees sticky mechanisms
> >* drives out moisture
>
> Yes, and the Budweiser bottle says it's made from the "Choicest Hops
> And Best Barley Malt" also. You can't always believe the label.
> --scott
> --
> "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

It may not be the best product to use, but it does do what it says.
----------------------------------

Sure it does, just like Slick 50, Turbulators, Restore Engine
Treatment, Fuel Tank Magnets, Enzyte, Dowsing Rods ...
the consumer can always trust the producers prodcut label.

On 2012-07-12, AD > wrote:

> mmm, but WD40 is supposed to penetrate the rust to allow easier
> unbolting and lessen the chance of pulling heads off on rusted nuts,
> no?

WD40 rarely works in that capacity. PB Blaster, Kroil, etc are designed
for that purpose.

On 2012-07-11, jim beam > wrote:
> On 07/12/2012 01:25 AM, AD wrote:

>>> WD40 isn't for corroded fasteners. Get a lubricant not a solvent.
>>
>> mmm, but WD40 is supposed to penetrate the rust to allow easier
>> unbolting
>> and lessen the chance of pulling heads off on rusted nuts, no?
>
> for normal people, yes. but not much penetrates brent's rusted threads.

Yes, for normal people who don't have a clue.

> and despite his fears, impacts work on rusted exhaust fasteners just
> great. i've stripped irredeemably rusty exhaust threads with an impact,
> after mucho prolonged hammering, but never broken a bolt.

So in your usual fashion Mr. Beam, you just make things up. I made no
statement about "exhaust fasteners". I talked about large and small
fasteners and using the correct impact tool based on the size of the
fastener. For instance, I had to remove the exhaust manifold heat shield
from my mazda. It is held to the exhaust manifold by some M6 or M5
screws with a 10mm head. They were so rusted that two of the three I had
to use a 3/8in socket to grip them. I used PB Blaster and my small
electric impact driver. Worked perfectly. For replacing the control arm
I used my pneumatic impact. The typical exhaust clamp bolt is just big
enough to use the pneumatic on.

If you want to argue against voices in your head in the future do not
assign my name to them.

On Thu, 12 Jul 2012 10:26:16 -0500, "Heron" >
wrote:

>"Scott Dorsey" > wrote in message
...
>> AD > wrote:
>>>>
>>>> WD40 isn't for corroded fasteners. Get a lubricant not a solvent.
>>>
>>>mmm, but WD40 is supposed to penetrate the rust to allow easier
>>>unbolting
>>>and lessen the chance of pulling heads off on rusted nuts, no?
>>
>> It's supposed to, but it doesn't really.
>>
>> Try Kroil, PB Blaster, Break Free or another actual penetrating oil.
>> It will make your life much easier.
>> --scott
>> --
>> "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
>
>Seconded, use a real rust penetrant. I've used the following
>for decades, it's never once failed to free a rusted fastener,
>but allow it sufficient time to penetrate: GM Goodwrench
>Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor Heat Valve Lubricant, Part #
>1052627 Gr.8.800 (number may now be superseded).
>

Think that one goes back to manifold flappers. I've heard it's the
best, but never used it except on flappers.
Always soaked threads with the "usual suspects" and wire brush what I
can.
In the end, what breaks, breaks. Wasn't any good anyway.
Only thing I try hard not to break is studs set in exhaust manifolds.
If I think the stud will break, I'll cut off the nut with a Dremel,
and run a chaser on the threads. But it's been a long time since I
even worked on exhaust. Rather pay the shop now. I never used impact
when I did it. Would have made it easier I suspect.
Pretty sure exhaust shops just air-chisel most of the old exhaust
fasteners off anyway.

--
Vic

On Thu, 12 Jul 2012 13:07:49 -0700 (PDT), m6onz5a
> wrote:

>On Jul 12, 3:33Â*pm, (Scott Dorsey) wrote:
>> m6onz5a > wrote:
>> >> sorry no. wd40 is a water dispersent not a penetrating oil. =A0KB
>>
>> >Straight from the WD40 bottle:
>>
>> >*stops squeaks
>> >*removes & protects
>> >* loosens Rusted Parts - to free stuck, corroded parts like *nuts,
>> >*bolts, *valves, *locks
>> >* Frees sticky mechanisms
>> >* drives out moisture
>>
>> Yes, and the Budweiser bottle says it's made from the "Choicest Hops
>> And Best Barley Malt" also. Â*You can't always believe the label.
>> --scott
>> --
>> "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
>
>It may not be the best product to use, but it does do what it says.

I find WD40 useless, because in my experience it doesn't do anything
well. It's just on store shelves everywhere, and the price looks
cheap. Probably expensive for what you get. Nothing really.
I really don't know what people use it for, but guess it's to spray on
squeaks, like hinges. My wife bought a can and I tried it on various
squeaks. Lasts a couple days, then the squeak is back.
Pump a couple drops of clean motor oil on the hinge, work it in by
swinging the door, wipe off excess with a rag, and the squeak is gone
for YEARS.
Why use it as a penetrating oil/rust breaker when there are products
made specifically for that?
BTW, when I was a boilerman in the Navy, we used oil of wintergreen as
a penetrating oil. Seemed to work, but who the hell really knows
what's actually making the most difference inside where you can't see
what's really happening?
I still soak rusty stuff with penetrating oil, bang on it, etc.
But as soon as it breaks loose I want the threads oiled up with motor
oil.

--
Vic

jim beam > wrote in :

> On 07/12/2012 06:41 AM, Kevin Bottorff wrote:
>> > wrote in
>> :
>>
>>> On Jul 12, 9:08�am, >
wrote:
>>>> On 2012-07-11, jim > wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> On 07/11/2012 03:51 PM, Brent wrote:
>>>>>> On 2012-07-11, Scott > �wrote:
>>>>>>> Vic > �wrote:
>>>>>>>> On Wed, 11 Jul 2012 02:27:07 -0700 (PDT), >
>>>>>>>> �wr
>>> ote:
>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I'm toying with an idea of spending $200 on a battery powered
>>>>>>>>> impac
>>> t
>>>>>>>>> wrench (at sears.com or whatever).
>>>>>>>>> Aside from prying off the wheel bolts any other uses you could
>>>>>>>>> come
>>> up
>>>>>>>>> with to justyfy the purchase?
>>>>
>>>>>>>> Unless you're somehow physically disabled, or dealing with
>>>>>>>> corroded fasteners, it ain't worth dealing with the weight of
>>>>>>>> it, and pluggin
>>> g
>>>>>>>> it in. �My opinion.
>>>>
>>>>>>> It is, however, an absolute miracle for dealing with corroded
>>>>>>> fastene
>>> rs. �If
>>>>>>> you ever do any suspension or exhaust work or if you ever do
>>>>>>> anything
>>> on an
>>>>>>> Triumph or MG, it will pay for itself the first time you use it.
>>>>
>>>>>> An impact wrench designed for lug nuts and other large fasteners
>>>>>> is usesless for the vast majority of corroded fasteners. It will
>>>>>> break them. For that I purchased a corded impact driver.
>>>>
>>>>> then you got the wrong driver.
>>>>
>>>> No, I have a small electric impact driver for small fasteners. I
have
>>>> air impact wrench for large fasteners. These are the right drivers
>>>> for what they are used for. Use a full size impact wrench on an M8
or
>>>> M6 and watch it break the fastener.
>>>>
>>>>> the right one will work pretty much
>>>>> every time. �and you should still use stuff like wd40 with an
>>>>> appropriate soak-in time if you anticipate problems.
>>>>
>>>> WD40 isn't for corroded fasteners. Get a lubricant not a solvent.
>>>
>>> mmm, but WD40 is supposed to penetrate the rust to allow easier
>>> unbolting
>>> and lessen the chance of pulling heads off on rusted nuts, no?
>>>
>>
>> sorry no. wd40 is a water dispersent not a penetrating oil. KB
>
> kevin needs to butt-off and go file a complaint with the ad standards
> council.
>
> <http://www.wd40.com/uses-tips/function/loosens-rusted-parts/>
>
> and he'd better take his lab analysis with him to explain how
"petroleum
> base oil" isn't actually present as alleged:
>
> <http://www.wd40company.com/files/pdf/msds-wd494716385.pdf>
>
>

Jimmy your ignorance grows by the day. KB

On 07/12/2012 03:51 PM, Brent wrote:
> On 2012-07-11, jim > wrote:
>> On 07/12/2012 01:25 AM, AD wrote:
>
>>>> WD40 isn't for corroded fasteners. Get a lubricant not a solvent.
>>>
>>> mmm, but WD40 is supposed to penetrate the rust to allow easier
>>> unbolting
>>> and lessen the chance of pulling heads off on rusted nuts, no?
>>
>> for normal people, yes. but not much penetrates brent's rusted threads.
>
> Yes, for normal people who don't have a clue.

i can't imagine anyone having a clue about your rusted threads brent.


>
>> and despite his fears, impacts work on rusted exhaust fasteners just
>> great. i've stripped irredeemably rusty exhaust threads with an impact,
>> after mucho prolonged hammering, but never broken a bolt.
>
> So in your usual fashion Mr. Beam, you just make things up. I made no
> statement about "exhaust fasteners". I talked about large and small
> fasteners and using the correct impact tool based on the size of the
> fastener.

there's a certain level of base knowledge that normal people assume.
for instance, shop manuals presume that the reader knows how to use a
jack, a screwdriver and a wrench. the same presumption applies to the
use of power tools - don't try to eat them, stick them up your ass or
use 1300lb impacts on the little screws holding down brent's recently
emptied cranial cavity.


> For instance, I had to remove the exhaust manifold heat shield
> from my mazda. It is held to the exhaust manifold by some M6 or M5
> screws with a 10mm head. They were so rusted that two of the three I had
> to use a 3/8in socket to grip them. I used PB Blaster and my small
> electric impact driver. Worked perfectly. For replacing the control arm
> I used my pneumatic impact. The typical exhaust clamp bolt is just big
> enough to use the pneumatic on.

none of which is a contradiction to anything i said. well, it might be
in your mind, but that's a different matter...


>
> If you want to argue against voices in your head in the future do not
> assign my name to them.

fortunately, i can't hear the echoing in /your/ head. but if i could, i
would expect a long return time!


--
fact check required

On 07/13/2012 02:17 PM, Kevin Bottorff wrote:
> jim > wrote in :
>
>> On 07/12/2012 06:41 AM, Kevin Bottorff wrote:
>>> > wrote in
>>> :
>>>
>>>> On Jul 12, 9:08�am, >
> wrote:
>>>>> On 2012-07-11, jim > wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> On 07/11/2012 03:51 PM, Brent wrote:
>>>>>>> On 2012-07-11, Scott > �wrote:
>>>>>>>> Vic > �wrote:
>>>>>>>>> On Wed, 11 Jul 2012 02:27:07 -0700 (PDT), >
>>>>>>>>> �wr
>>>> ote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> I'm toying with an idea of spending $200 on a battery powered
>>>>>>>>>> impac
>>>> t
>>>>>>>>>> wrench (at sears.com or whatever).
>>>>>>>>>> Aside from prying off the wheel bolts any other uses you could
>>>>>>>>>> come
>>>> up
>>>>>>>>>> with to justyfy the purchase?
>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Unless you're somehow physically disabled, or dealing with
>>>>>>>>> corroded fasteners, it ain't worth dealing with the weight of
>>>>>>>>> it, and pluggin
>>>> g
>>>>>>>>> it in. �My opinion.
>>>>>
>>>>>>>> It is, however, an absolute miracle for dealing with corroded
>>>>>>>> fastene
>>>> rs. �If
>>>>>>>> you ever do any suspension or exhaust work or if you ever do
>>>>>>>> anything
>>>> on an
>>>>>>>> Triumph or MG, it will pay for itself the first time you use it.
>>>>>
>>>>>>> An impact wrench designed for lug nuts and other large fasteners
>>>>>>> is usesless for the vast majority of corroded fasteners. It will
>>>>>>> break them. For that I purchased a corded impact driver.
>>>>>
>>>>>> then you got the wrong driver.
>>>>>
>>>>> No, I have a small electric impact driver for small fasteners. I
> have
>>>>> air impact wrench for large fasteners. These are the right drivers
>>>>> for what they are used for. Use a full size impact wrench on an M8
> or
>>>>> M6 and watch it break the fastener.
>>>>>
>>>>>> the right one will work pretty much
>>>>>> every time. �and you should still use stuff like wd40 with an
>>>>>> appropriate soak-in time if you anticipate problems.
>>>>>
>>>>> WD40 isn't for corroded fasteners. Get a lubricant not a solvent.
>>>>
>>>> mmm, but WD40 is supposed to penetrate the rust to allow easier
>>>> unbolting
>>>> and lessen the chance of pulling heads off on rusted nuts, no?
>>>>
>>>
>>> sorry no. wd40 is a water dispersent not a penetrating oil. KB
>>
>> kevin needs to butt-off and go file a complaint with the ad standards
>> council.
>>
>> <http://www.wd40.com/uses-tips/function/loosens-rusted-parts/>
>>
>> and he'd better take his lab analysis with him to explain how
> "petroleum
>> base oil" isn't actually present as alleged:
>>
>> <http://www.wd40company.com/files/pdf/msds-wd494716385.pdf>
>>
>>
>
> Jimmy your ignorance grows by the day. KB

i don't know about "grows", kev, but you're absolutely right that i must
be absolutely ****ing retarded thinking that it would be possible to
point out easily searchable web data and expect you to pay any attention
to it.


--
fact check required

On 07/11/2012 05:27 AM, AD wrote:
> I'm toying with an idea of spending $200 on a battery powered impact
> wrench (at sears.com or whatever).
> Aside from prying off the wheel bolts any other uses you could come up
> with to justyfy the purchase?
>
> I don't steal other people's rims for living hence I ponder if twice a
> year 30 something bolts on two car
> summer/winter reshoeing are worth the money spent.
>
> I pay about $5 per car where I live to swap the rims. Hence me thinks
> 10 seasons to recoup the
> cost seems like a long long time.
>

Depends on your intended use. For spinning off lug nuts a $20 speed
handle is probably a better investment, or a good four-way lug wrench
(hold it in the palm of your hand, and let it spin.)

If you actually intend to work on your vehicle and disturb fasteners
that haven't been moved since the vehicle was made, however, sometimes
an impact is a godsend (was wishing for one today while dropping the gas
tank skid on the Jeep... doesn't look corroded at all underneath, the
floor pan is pristine, but still those bolts fought me the whole way
out.) Where an impact really shines is when dealing with fasteners that
are still sound but have rust/corrosion.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
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