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Hmm. A conundrum has surfaced. I've incrementally increased the torque on
the pinion nut a few times to the maximum of 250 ft-lbs my torque wrench will do. The preload has increased, i can feel more resistance to turning, but I can still turn the pinion nut with my in-lbs torque wrench set to it's minimum of 25 in-lbs without it clicking. What do I do? Crank on the pinion nut with a breaker bar and hope I don't go to far, or put it all back together and hope the preload is enough as-is? /Peter "Mike Romain" > wrote in message ... > That is the idea Peter. It can take up to 500 ft lb to set that sucker > according to the book I have. I was always told to go at least to 300, > but as mentioned, I have never done one. > > Mike > > Peter Pontbriand wrote: > > > > Disregard what, exactly? The bit about the air impact wrench? Seeing as I > > don't have one, that won't be a problem ;-) > > > > Actually, someone mentioned somewhere in this thread that using anything > > further sown the drivetrain to hold the pinion from turning wouldn't work. > > Now that I've played around with it a bit more, I can see - or should I say > > feel - how the gear teeth would cause the pinion to "walk" a bit, thowing > > things off. I think the only way to do this properly is to have something to > > hold the yoke itself, which is what I've done. I've reinstalled it using red > > Loc-Tite on the nut, snugged it up to 160 ft-lbs, and removed my yoke > > grabber. The axle shafts are removed, and it's taking way less torque than > > my inch-lbs torque wrench can measure to turn the pinion. > > > > So, just to make sure, what I should be doing now is increasing the torque > > on the pinion yoke nut incrementally until it takes 30 inch-lbs or so to > > turn the pinion? > > > > /Peter > > > > "Earle Horton" > wrote in message > > news:1121699291.1230ba0de444f436447964b5ba854b66@t eranews... > > > Thirty years ago I would have used an air impact wrench, but now I have > > more > > > experience. Please disregard this. ;o) > > > > > > Earle > > > > > > "Peter Pontbriand" <TRIMsprocketATstormDOTcaTRIM> wrote in message > > > ... > > > > The thing is cone shaped, no flat spots for any sort of pipe wrench like > > a > > > > regular u-joint yoke. There is a narrow lip at the widest part of the > > cone > > > > (away from the pinion), but it would take a mighty big pipe wrench to > > grab > > > > that, and I don't have such an animal. Plus, I think it would get pretty > > > > messed up by a pipe wrench doing 160 - 500 ft-lbs. I doubt that an oil > > > > filter wrench would be able to hold it at all. > > > > > > > > I've just drilled the two holes in the bar stock so that it can be > > bolted > > > to > > > > the yoke using two of the six bolts, I just hope that that is > > sufficient. > > > I > > > > don't want to break or distort the yoke using only two of the holes to > > > hold > > > > it, but trying to fab another arm onto it to grab a third hole seems > > like > > > > excess right now - it's 33 degrees Celsius in the garage and very humid. > > > > > > > > /Peter > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" > wrote in message > > > > ... > > > > > Won't something like a chain oil filter wrench grab it? How about a > > > > > plumbers pipe wrench? > > > > > > > > > > I don't have a photo, but the trick is to make the bar so the socket > > > > > fits past it if you can or so the socket is just captured under it > > while > > > > > still being able to turn. > > > > > > > > > > Good luck. > > > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > Okay, I'm back from Jamboree and need to get the ZJ going so my wife > > > > isn't > > > > > > constantly at the mall with my TJ. My first step will be to fab up > > > this > > > > > > "pinion yoke grabber" tool. I've got a three-foot length of 1/4" x 1 > > > > 1/2" > > > > > > bar stock handy. Will two holes drilled in this be sufficient, or > > > should > > > > I > > > > > > be building a pivoting arm with a third hole in it like the one in > > the > > > > > > picture in the FSM? There are a total of six bolts holding the > > > > driveshaft to > > > > > > this yoke ... > > > > > > > > > > > > /Peter > > > > > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" > wrote in message > > > > > > ... > > > > > > > Unfortunately Peter, that is the only way to get it right if you > > > don't > > > > > > > have that grabber tool. I would fast be making a bar of steel up > > > with > > > > a > > > > > > > couple holes drilled into it so I could bolt it to the pinion to > > > hold > > > > it > > > > > > > steady while tightening. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > They are a real bitch to set up and for all the engine and other > > > kinds > > > > > > > of work I do, I send out the diffs. Then a Jeep shop did mine > > wrong > > > > > > > even and it cost me a cool $500.00 to fix at a 'real' machine > > shop! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > They are something like setting up a steering box, you cannot do > > the > > > > > > > preload with the steering wheel or drag link attached. If you do, > > > you > > > > > > > fast have a dead box. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Wait a sec, with the axles out I've no way to stop the pinion > > gear > > > > from > > > > > > > > turning while I tighten the nut - I'm using the brakes for that. > > > > This is > > > > > > a > > > > > > > > ZJ with a CV yoke thats perfectly round, no flat spots for a > > > wrench > > > > of > > > > > > any > > > > > > > > sort. Naturally, I don't have the fancy tool in the FSM for > > > holding > > > > the > > > > > > > > yoke. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Surely I can't be expected to remove the brake calipers, hubs, > > and > > > > axle > > > > > > > > shafts to measure pinion preload, then put them all back on to > > > > tighten > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > nut, then do it over again a bunch of times until it's right? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > /Peter > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "L.W. (ßill) Hughes III" > wrote in message > > > > > > > > ... > > > > > > > > > When you remove the nut make sure it hasn't bottomed out > > as > > > > the > > > > > > > > > yoke should have easily slid up to where the old one was up > > > > against > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > bearing to crush sleeve. That would be thirty inch pounds > > > without > > > > > > axles, > > > > > > > > > for pinion test. > > > > > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > > > > > > > > > http://www.billhughes.com/ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Hmm. I think I'll remove the nut and use some blue Loc-Tite > > > > then. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > All I did on the weekend was install the yoke and tighten > > the > > > > nut to > > > > > > 160 > > > > > > > > > > lbs-ft. Just now I removed the drive shaft again and turned > > > the > > > > > > pinion > > > > > > > > with > > > > > > > > > > my lbs-in torque wrench set to 30 with no clicks, so it > > needs > > > to > > > > be > > > > > > > > tighter. > > > > > > > > > > I think there's even a bit of play in it, but its hard to > > tell > > > > > > what's > > > > > > > > lash > > > > > > > > > > and what play. Unfortunately now I have to wait for a helper > > > > with > > > > > > > > stronger > > > > > > > > > > legs than my six-year-old - he can't push on the brake pedal > > > > hard > > > > > > enough > > > > > > > > to > > > > > > > > > > stop the wheels from spinning when I turn the pinion nut. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > /Peter > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "L.W. (ßill) Hughes III" > wrote in > > message > > > > > > > > > > ... > > > > > > > > > > > Hi Peter, > > > > > > > > > > > I never have, but then I've heard of many that have > > > > loosened. > > > > > > If > > > > > > > > > > > you have pinion bearing play the the yoke you have is not > > > > sliding > > > > > > up > > > > > > > > > > > hard against the bearing like the previous one did, as the > > > > crush > > > > > > > > sleeve > > > > > > > > > > > separating the bearings is naturally in-between them. Have > > > you > > > > hit > > > > > > it > > > > > > > > > > > with an impact, and walked it on down? being careful in > > > > feeling > > > > > > with > > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > > > other hand for when it begins to snug up. > > > > > > > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.billhughes.com/ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > The pinion nut is some sort of stover nut, but it's been > > > > re-used > > > > > > a > > > > > > > > > > couple of > > > > > > > > > > > > times. Should I be putting some sort of Loc-Tite on it? > > > Red > > > > or > > > > > > Blue? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > /Peter > > > > > > > > > > > > > > |
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