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Battery drain .24 amps from GEM



 
 
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  #1  
Old September 11th 06, 03:32 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.ford.explorer
Steve[_16_]
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Posts: 4
Default Battery drain .24 amps from GEM

My 98 Explorer Limited battery dies if I don't drive it for 7 to 10
days--which is quite often. I've had the charging system and battery checked
at a couple of auto parts stores and they said both are good. We did notice
an amp draw of 2 amps with the vehicle off and a spikes up higher than that.
But when I check the amp draw at home when it hasn't been running it's a
constant .24 amps. So I'm thinking maybe the 2 amps at the store were due to
something still running after driving it. I did start the engine and ran it
for 30 seconds or so and shut it off and it was again at .24 amps.

On second thought we may have had the door open when checking it at the
store and I've noticed when I open the door the amp draw goes up to 4.83
amps. I don't know what the dome lights should draw, but that seems like a
lot me. Maybe not?? There are 4 interior lights plus one under each external
mirror that light up when the door opens.

Anyway, isn't .24 amps still too high with all lights off? I've pulled fuses
to find that removing fuse 25 (Generic Electronic Module, Instrument
Cluster, Securi-Lock) drops the amp draw down to .01 amps. This vehicle has
a Message Center computer which displays mileage, fuel range, distance
traveled, System Check, etc. Don't know if that places much of a current
drain while the engine is off.

Any ideas on what I should do now? Thanks for any help.

Steve

Ads
  #2  
Old September 11th 06, 04:16 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.ford.explorer
Jim Warman
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Posts: 630
Default Battery drain .24 amps from GEM

The first thing to do is to measure parasitic draw correctly... more on that
in a bit. If this is the original battery, you are due for a replacement.
The test equipment used by most auto parts stores is far from professional
quality.

As for parasitic draw testing.... there are many modules on even a 98 and
some of these modules require anywhere up to 45 minutes to "go to sleep".
Something as innocent as opening a door or pulling and reinstalling a fuse
can be enough to "wake a module up"...

Many batteries can pass a high rate discharge test yet fail a reserve
capacity test miserably...


  #3  
Old September 11th 06, 01:53 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.ford.explorer
Big Shoe
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Posts: 72
Default Battery drain .24 amps from GEM

Regarding dome lights, remember we are talking 12 volts here. 4.83
times 12 is a little less than 60 watts - no a tremendous amount of
light, so sounds about right to me.

On Sun, 10 Sep 2006 20:32:49 -0600, Steve
> wrote:

>My 98 Explorer Limited battery dies if I don't drive it for 7 to 10
>days--which is quite often. I've had the charging system and battery checked
>at a couple of auto parts stores and they said both are good. We did notice
>an amp draw of 2 amps with the vehicle off and a spikes up higher than that.
>But when I check the amp draw at home when it hasn't been running it's a
>constant .24 amps. So I'm thinking maybe the 2 amps at the store were due to
>something still running after driving it. I did start the engine and ran it
>for 30 seconds or so and shut it off and it was again at .24 amps.
>
>On second thought we may have had the door open when checking it at the
>store and I've noticed when I open the door the amp draw goes up to 4.83
>amps. I don't know what the dome lights should draw, but that seems like a
>lot me. Maybe not?? There are 4 interior lights plus one under each external
>mirror that light up when the door opens.
>
>Anyway, isn't .24 amps still too high with all lights off? I've pulled fuses
>to find that removing fuse 25 (Generic Electronic Module, Instrument
>Cluster, Securi-Lock) drops the amp draw down to .01 amps. This vehicle has
>a Message Center computer which displays mileage, fuel range, distance
>traveled, System Check, etc. Don't know if that places much of a current
>drain while the engine is off.
>
>Any ideas on what I should do now? Thanks for any help.
>
>Steve

  #4  
Old September 11th 06, 10:01 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.ford.explorer
Ron Bozich
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5
Default Battery drain .24 amps from GEM

Steve wrote:
> My 98 Explorer Limited battery dies if I don't drive it for 7 to 10
> days--which is quite often. I've had the charging system and battery checked
> at a couple of auto parts stores and they said both are good. We did notice
> an amp draw of 2 amps with the vehicle off and a spikes up higher than that.
> But when I check the amp draw at home when it hasn't been running it's a
> constant .24 amps. So I'm thinking maybe the 2 amps at the store were due to
> something still running after driving it. I did start the engine and ran it
> for 30 seconds or so and shut it off and it was again at .24 amps.
>
> On second thought we may have had the door open when checking it at the
> store and I've noticed when I open the door the amp draw goes up to 4.83
> amps. I don't know what the dome lights should draw, but that seems like a
> lot me. Maybe not?? There are 4 interior lights plus one under each external
> mirror that light up when the door opens.
>
> Anyway, isn't .24 amps still too high with all lights off? I've pulled fuses
> to find that removing fuse 25 (Generic Electronic Module, Instrument
> Cluster, Securi-Lock) drops the amp draw down to .01 amps. This vehicle has
> a Message Center computer which displays mileage, fuel range, distance
> traveled, System Check, etc. Don't know if that places much of a current
> drain while the engine is off.
>
> Any ideas on what I should do now? Thanks for any help.
>
> Steve
>

Check your alt, a bad diode will and can kill a good battery in 10 days
or less. Pull the B+, large wire, off the back of your alt and check
your system again.

Ron
  #5  
Old September 12th 06, 04:57 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.ford.explorer
Steve[_16_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4
Default Battery drain .24 amps from GEM

On 9/10/06 9:16 PM, in article 2y4Ng.2094$KA6.578@clgrps12, "Jim Warman"
> wrote:

> The first thing to do is to measure parasitic draw correctly... more on that
> in a bit. If this is the original battery, you are due for a replacement.
> The test equipment used by most auto parts stores is far from professional
> quality.
>
> As for parasitic draw testing.... there are many modules on even a 98 and
> some of these modules require anywhere up to 45 minutes to "go to sleep".
> Something as innocent as opening a door or pulling and reinstalling a fuse
> can be enough to "wake a module up"...
>
> Many batteries can pass a high rate discharge test yet fail a reserve
> capacity test miserably...
>
>

Jim, thanks for the response. I'm not entirely sure what you're suggesting
though. Are you saying I should wait 45 minutes without doing anything and
test again? If so, could you explain further?

And as for the battery, wouldn't the symptoms be different if the battery
were bad? I never have a problem if I drive the vehicle every few days. It's
only a problem if I park it for a week without driving it. Then if it is
dead and I charge it, it works fine for another week of no driving.
Thoughts?

Steve

  #6  
Old September 12th 06, 04:58 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.ford.explorer
Steve[_16_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4
Default Battery drain .24 amps from GEM

Yeh, I was thinking that might be true but I just never calculated it out.
Thanks clarifying that.

Steve

On 9/11/06 6:53 AM, in article ,
"Big Shoe" > wrote:

> Regarding dome lights, remember we are talking 12 volts here. 4.83
> times 12 is a little less than 60 watts - no a tremendous amount of
> light, so sounds about right to me.
>
> On Sun, 10 Sep 2006 20:32:49 -0600, Steve
> > wrote:
>
>> My 98 Explorer Limited battery dies if I don't drive it for 7 to 10
>> days--which is quite often. I've had the charging system and battery checked
>> at a couple of auto parts stores and they said both are good. We did notice
>> an amp draw of 2 amps with the vehicle off and a spikes up higher than that.
>> But when I check the amp draw at home when it hasn't been running it's a
>> constant .24 amps. So I'm thinking maybe the 2 amps at the store were due to
>> something still running after driving it. I did start the engine and ran it
>> for 30 seconds or so and shut it off and it was again at .24 amps.
>>
>> On second thought we may have had the door open when checking it at the
>> store and I've noticed when I open the door the amp draw goes up to 4.83
>> amps. I don't know what the dome lights should draw, but that seems like a
>> lot me. Maybe not?? There are 4 interior lights plus one under each external
>> mirror that light up when the door opens.
>>
>> Anyway, isn't .24 amps still too high with all lights off? I've pulled fuses
>> to find that removing fuse 25 (Generic Electronic Module, Instrument
>> Cluster, Securi-Lock) drops the amp draw down to .01 amps. This vehicle has
>> a Message Center computer which displays mileage, fuel range, distance
>> traveled, System Check, etc. Don't know if that places much of a current
>> drain while the engine is off.
>>
>> Any ideas on what I should do now? Thanks for any help.
>>
>> Steve



  #7  
Old September 12th 06, 05:05 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.ford.explorer
Steve[_16_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4
Default Battery drain .24 amps from GEM

On 9/11/06 3:01 PM, in article ,
"Ron Bozich" > wrote:

> Steve wrote:
>> My 98 Explorer Limited battery dies if I don't drive it for 7 to 10
>> days--which is quite often. I've had the charging system and battery checked
>> at a couple of auto parts stores and they said both are good. We did notice
>> an amp draw of 2 amps with the vehicle off and a spikes up higher than that.
>> But when I check the amp draw at home when it hasn't been running it's a
>> constant .24 amps. So I'm thinking maybe the 2 amps at the store were due to
>> something still running after driving it. I did start the engine and ran it
>> for 30 seconds or so and shut it off and it was again at .24 amps.
>>
>> On second thought we may have had the door open when checking it at the
>> store and I've noticed when I open the door the amp draw goes up to 4.83
>> amps. I don't know what the dome lights should draw, but that seems like a
>> lot me. Maybe not?? There are 4 interior lights plus one under each external
>> mirror that light up when the door opens.
>>
>> Anyway, isn't .24 amps still too high with all lights off? I've pulled fuses
>> to find that removing fuse 25 (Generic Electronic Module, Instrument
>> Cluster, Securi-Lock) drops the amp draw down to .01 amps. This vehicle has
>> a Message Center computer which displays mileage, fuel range, distance
>> traveled, System Check, etc. Don't know if that places much of a current
>> drain while the engine is off.
>>
>> Any ideas on what I should do now? Thanks for any help.
>>
>> Steve
>>

> Check your alt, a bad diode will and can kill a good battery in 10 days
> or less. Pull the B+, large wire, off the back of your alt and check
> your system again.
>
> Ron


Ron, could you clarify this for me? The alternator has a black wire with an
orange stripe that is attached with a nut as well as a plug-type connector
with green and yellow wires on it. Are you saying to disconnect one of these
connectors and then just test the amp draw again? Thanks.

Steve


  #8  
Old September 12th 06, 06:43 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.ford.explorer
Jim Warman
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 630
Default Battery drain .24 amps from GEM

Prepare the car ahead of time... open the doors and trip the latches to the
closed position (makes the car think the doors are closed.... This way,
opening a door wont wake a module up.... I like to pre-install a tool
similar to this
http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Discon.../dp/B00099YOV8
to the positive post before I do anything else.... make sure your ammeter is
connected across it before you open the switch.

Allow at least 45 minutes for all the modules to hibernate and then begin
testing. Once a fuse is pulled, do not re-install it until testing is
complete - re-installing it *may* wake a module up.

A poor mans reserve capacity test..... turn on the interior light and
operate the radio for about an hour and a half.... If the battery has
sufficient reserve capacity, the car should start.... If not, it could be a
very real indication that reserve capacity is down and the battery may need
replacing. As I said, if this is the original battery, I wouldn't hesitate
to replace it, anyway...



  #9  
Old September 14th 06, 01:04 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.ford.explorer
Ron Bozich
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5
Default Battery drain .24 amps from GEM

Remove the nut and leave the wire loose. A shorted diode will charge the
battery with the engine running but drain it with the engine off. Like
Jim said be sure you have a good battery and be sure your terminals are
clean. Good luck.


Ron

Steve wrote:
> On 9/11/06 3:01 PM, in article ,
> "Ron Bozich" > wrote:
>
>
>>Steve wrote:
>>
>>>My 98 Explorer Limited battery dies if I don't drive it for 7 to 10
>>>days--which is quite often. I've had the charging system and battery checked
>>>at a couple of auto parts stores and they said both are good. We did notice
>>>an amp draw of 2 amps with the vehicle off and a spikes up higher than that.
>>>But when I check the amp draw at home when it hasn't been running it's a
>>>constant .24 amps. So I'm thinking maybe the 2 amps at the store were due to
>>>something still running after driving it. I did start the engine and ran it
>>>for 30 seconds or so and shut it off and it was again at .24 amps.
>>>
>>>On second thought we may have had the door open when checking it at the
>>>store and I've noticed when I open the door the amp draw goes up to 4.83
>>>amps. I don't know what the dome lights should draw, but that seems like a
>>>lot me. Maybe not?? There are 4 interior lights plus one under each external
>>>mirror that light up when the door opens.
>>>
>>>Anyway, isn't .24 amps still too high with all lights off? I've pulled fuses
>>>to find that removing fuse 25 (Generic Electronic Module, Instrument
>>>Cluster, Securi-Lock) drops the amp draw down to .01 amps. This vehicle has
>>>a Message Center computer which displays mileage, fuel range, distance
>>>traveled, System Check, etc. Don't know if that places much of a current
>>>drain while the engine is off.
>>>
>>>Any ideas on what I should do now? Thanks for any help.
>>>
>>>Steve
>>>

>>
>>Check your alt, a bad diode will and can kill a good battery in 10 days
>>or less. Pull the B+, large wire, off the back of your alt and check
>>your system again.
>>
>>Ron

>
>
> Ron, could you clarify this for me? The alternator has a black wire with an
> orange stripe that is attached with a nut as well as a plug-type connector
> with green and yellow wires on it. Are you saying to disconnect one of these
> connectors and then just test the amp draw again? Thanks.
>
> Steve
>
>

 




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