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degreasing old tools



 
 
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  #31  
Old March 1st 05, 05:07 PM
Steve
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Bitter Dave wrote:

>
> I've found that Simple Green isn't that good of a degreaser. Try
> something called Nature's Orange (or something like that). About $8 a
> gallon at Home Depot and works much better than Simple Green.
>



Of course that stuff works- it is basically orange-scented mineral
spirits :-)
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  #32  
Old March 1st 05, 06:10 PM
Daniel J. Stern
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On Tue, 1 Mar 2005, Steve wrote:

> > I've found that Simple Green isn't that good of a degreaser. Try
> > something called Nature's Orange (or something like that). About $8 a
> > gallon at Home Depot and works much better than Simple Green.


> Of course that stuff works- it is basically orange-scented mineral
> spirits :-)


Well, not really...its active ingredient is d-limonene, which is a solvent
derived from citrus peel oil.
  #33  
Old March 1st 05, 08:30 PM
Steve
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Daniel J. Stern wrote:

> On Tue, 1 Mar 2005, Steve wrote:
>
>
>>>I've found that Simple Green isn't that good of a degreaser. Try
>>>something called Nature's Orange (or something like that). About $8 a
>>>gallon at Home Depot and works much better than Simple Green.

>
>
>>Of course that stuff works- it is basically orange-scented mineral
>>spirits :-)

>
>
> Well, not really...its active ingredient is d-limonene, which is a solvent
> derived from citrus peel oil.

Yes, the "active ingredient" (consisting of a few percent) is citrus
based. My point was that the "active ingredient" is carried in an
"inactive ingredient" (70-80% by volume) that is...... "petroleum
distillates." IOW...

Mineral spirits.
  #34  
Old March 2nd 05, 01:26 AM
scott and barb
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MEK or aircraft stripper
"sdlomi2" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Brent P" > wrote in message
> ...
> >
> > I have what were my grandfather's tools. A mix of snap on, SK,

craftsman,
> > various cheapos, other brands that look like quality tools but the names
> > I haven't seen anywhere else. Anyway almost all of them are coated in
> > grease and dirt from many years of use without cleaning. The sockets
> > have grease and dirt caked inside. As I go through cleaning them, each
> > one seems dirtier than the next. It is taking far too long to clean

them.
> >
> > Anyone know of any good cleaners/degreasers that would work well in
> > getting them clean? Something I can just soak them in that would at

least
> > take most of the grime off?
> >
> > thanks
> >
> >
> >

> Tried a bucket of gasoline & a parts cleaning brush, VERY CAREFULLY?

If
> u feel u need a solvent, buy some Gunk engine de-greaser. Got a GOOD

friend
> with a solvent tank--may not be friends afterwards, but it'll clean

nicely!
> Lacquer thinner, cheapest available, works well. (If any of these
> suggestions don't suffice, how much for the tools, grease included?) s
>
>



  #35  
Old March 2nd 05, 03:28 AM
RobW
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Steve wrote:
> Go to a few parts stores (locally-owned is best) and ask if they have


> any solvent for parts-washers (Varsol, Safety-Kleen, Solvent-140,

etc.
> etc. etc.) Kerosene is fine if you can't come by parts-washer

solvent,
> but it will leave a heavier film on the tools and you have to spend

more
> time wiping them down.
>
> BTW- a parts-washer was one of THE best investments I ever made for

my
> garage. I can't believe how often I use the thing, and I can't

believe I
> spent 20 years fooling around with kerosene in pans to clean parts.
>


Bingo! The right answer, we have a winner. Absolutely. A parts
washer is a great thing if one does any large jobs at home, very nice
to have and inexpensive, as shop tools go. Ask a local shop if you can
use their parts washer (slip the guy a tip), if you can't find the
stuff.

A close equivilent- brake fluid. Soak filthy parts, tools, in it for a
day or two, rinse with water- it (and the above solvent) are water
soluble. Plus it doesn't eat plastic or rubber. Both are toxic stuff,
don't spill it, wear gloves (it will melt latex), and wash your hands.


I actually use a mixture of used, dirty solvent (nice and black) to
clean and restore finish to ABS plastic engine parts and as a
presertive against growing brittle and cracking on tire sidewalls.
Wipe it on with a rag, let it sit a few minutes, wipe off excess. A
lot cheaper and more effective (IMO) than armor-all which should NEVER
be used on tires (IMO).
(I got this from a vintage motorcycle column in some US bike mag, I
think Cycle, a few years ago. Tried it, was amazed.)


> Brent P wrote:
>
> > I have what were my grandfather's tools. A mix of snap on, SK,

craftsman,
> > various cheapos, other brands that look like quality tools but the

names
> > I haven't seen anywhere else. Anyway almost all of them are coated

in
> > grease and dirt from many years of use without cleaning. The

sockets
> > have grease and dirt caked inside. As I go through cleaning them,

each
> > one seems dirtier than the next. It is taking far too long to clean

them.
> >
> > Anyone know of any good cleaners/degreasers that would work well in


> > getting them clean? Something I can just soak them in that would at

least
> > take most of the grime off?
> >
> > thanks
> >
> >
> >


  #36  
Old March 2nd 05, 05:31 AM
The Real Bev
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RobW wrote:

> A close equivilent- brake fluid. Soak filthy parts, tools, in it for a
> day or two, rinse with water- it (and the above solvent) are water
> soluble. Plus it doesn't eat plastic or rubber. Both are toxic stuff,
> don't spill it, wear gloves (it will melt latex), and wash your hands.


When I spilled brake fluid on some wires under the reservoir it ate off
the insulation and I ended up with the dashboard brake light on until
the car itself died. I covered it with some black plastic tape -- it's
never a good idea to train yourself to ignore red lights.

--
Cheers,
Bev
*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*= *=*
It is just a bicycle. It is not dedication and bugs
in your teeth and dust and rain and mud. It is not
madness and harmony and glory and rhythm. It is not
muscle and flesh and sweat and lycra and wind.
It is just a bicycle. -- Bianchi
*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*= *=*
  #37  
Old March 2nd 05, 10:44 PM
Rudy Hiebert
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Try Amsoil's MP (Multi-Purpose). My experiment involved spraying it on
half my table saw and WD on the other half. The half with the MP did
not have condensation nor rust on it whereas the WD had condensation
and a bit of rust.
RH


"Old Wolf" > wrote in message roups.com>...
> Nate Nagel wrote:
> > Big Bill wrote:
> > > Try this: spray some WD-40 on a mirror, then look at it after a few
> > > days. You will see a residue that is, in fact, a lubricant.
> > > Yes, WD-40 has solvents in it, but it isn't a solvent.
> > > That's sort of like saying a cake is flour, becasue it has flour in
> > > it.

> >
> > However, it's not a *good* lubricant, at least not after all the
> > volatiles have evaporated. WD-40 makes a fine solvent, and is

> excellent
> > for wet ignition parts, but it is not worth a crap as a lubricant -

> nor
> > as a penetrating oil, either, despite what their advertising might

> imply.
>
> Is there much difference between WD-40 and CRC 5.56 ?

 




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