No spark (follow-up for Mike ...and anyone else who can help!)

On Tue, 5 Jul 2005 22:57:49 UTC Mike Romain >
wrote:

> David Harmon wrote:
> >
> > On Mon, 04 Jul 2005 12:25:17 -0400 in rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys,
> > Mike Romain > wrote,
> > >Well, I have heard of a parts place testing them, but have no experience
> > >with that. Non of the places around here test them. I have a spare I
> > >use for testing purposes.
> > >
> > >The modules also seem to fail when hot if it intermittent or just die
> > >totally, so likely yours is ok. How is the distributor pickup coil?
> >
> > I had the intermittent failure when hot syndrome. I took my ignition
> > module to an Auto Zone store, where they have a fancy machine that
> > tests all kinds of electrical parts. The module failed the test, I
> > replaced it, and I haven't had that problem since. It didn't have to
> > be hot to fail the test, either. Apparently it was good enough to
> > make a spark when cold, but way way below spec.
>
> Good to know, thanks. I will start asking around.
>
> I have seen a wells module replace a 'bad when hot' one only to do the
> same thing again. A third didn't work, so the garage figured it was a
> bad one and said see and put the second back and sold him a computer,
> after they sold him a coil..... I got the vehicle brought to me after
> mega bucks were spent and I tagged the 'bad when hot' right out of the
> box module after testing the pickup and grounds.

Mike, I had problems with 2 bad Wells ign. modules in a GM so when I
took the second one back I had them test the new one before I took it.
Something like 4 out of the five they had in stock failed right off
the shelf. Needless to say I will carefully consider the length of
the walk home before I even think about a Wells part anymore.

--
Will Honea

Actually two more questions for you guys ...

In reference to:
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/wiretrik.htm

It says:
a.. Create an air leak somewhere by unplugging a vacuum line. The metering
pins should move forward to the full-rich position.

1. How/where do you guys suggest to create the air leak?
2. How do you tell if the metering pins are in the full rich position?

Thanks!

griffin
'85 CJ7 4cyl

griffin wrote:
>
> OK, Mike & Bill I owe you guys a beer. It turned out (after ALL of this) to
> be the computer. I did all that bypass stuff with the wires and the hoses
> and it got spark and is now running and idling fine. It's out of time,
> obviously, but that's for another day - at least I was able to back it out
> of my driveway and back in again to verify she works. Now I gotta clean up
> that mess of hacked wires and hoses all over the place ;p
>
> Thanks again for all your help!
>
> BTW, Mike, where in Ontario are you? Do you ever do runs up to Thunder Bay
> area?
>
> "griffin" > wrote in message
> news:Z%Yxe.152487$El.127205@pd7tw1no...
> > '85 CJ7 4cyl

I like Labatts. ;-)

I am currently stuck in Toronto so Thunder Bay is 'way' up there. We
get up as far as Huntsville pretty regularly, maybe this weekend even
and have run up in Tamagami which is way up there too.

Are you up in that area?

As far as ll the hoses go, I just left my air filter flaps, EGR,
canister and PCV systems in. The rest is trash.

For the carb, you can just pull off the PCV line to make it go full rich
'when the computer is working'. If the computer is dead, this will not
work.

When I put a carb kit in, they are easy and only $20.00 or so, I use
needle nose pliers to set the pins full rich. If the stepper is off the
carb, you can finger pull the pins out and they will set full rich when
the unit is put back in because the pins bottom out or I can reach down
from the top and just gently pull the top pin out until it stops. The
bottom pin is in lockstep with it. You will likely see carbon marks on
the pin where it normally runs at which is close to half way out if it
was working.

You then can set the idle mix screws down front.

I also 'highly' recommend you verify the idle tubes are clear before
trying to set the mix. If there is junk in them, the mix will not stay
stable, it will be different every time it starts up.

Here is a good link to a test for and if needed fix for the idle tubes.
The tool used can be obtained from any welding supply store, it is used
to clean torch tips. I have the mini file set.

http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/engine/carter.html

If you have a stable idle, they are likely ok though.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's