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2000 Civic LX hard to start, no spark at all.
My wifes Honda won't start when it's been sitting for 6 hours or so.
I hesitate to call it cold, as we live in South Florida and it does this when it's 95 degrees out, but it technically is a 'cold start' issue. So here is what I've done. Attache a FI pressure test guage. As soon as I turn the key the guage reads about 38psi, perfect per the manual. It maintains pressure when I crank, and I can hear the injectors clicking through a screwdriver. So the FI system seems good. So my next guess is that its ignition. So I hooked my inductive timing light to #2 plug and zip-tied the trigger so it would stay on. When I crank the engine the timing light does not blink at ALL. After I've cranked it 7 or 8 times (for about 4 seconds at a time) I will start to get a blink from the timing light right after I release the key! Once it starts doing this, it will start within the next couple of trys, but it still only sparks when the key is released from the start position to the run position. Once the engine starts I get a consistant and non-wobbly spark indicated by the light. I did the same test with the same results using an inline spark tester. The book (I think I have a chiltons) has some ignition tests for me to go through, which I will do tomorrow morning, but I'd really just like to get this darn thing fixed. Anyone have any idea what this problem is? Alan |
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#2
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"Alan Russell" > wrote in message om... > My wifes Honda won't start when it's been sitting for 6 hours or so. > I hesitate to call it cold, as we live in South Florida and it does > this when it's 95 degrees out, but it technically is a 'cold start' > issue. > > So here is what I've done. Attache a FI pressure test guage. As soon > as I turn the key the guage reads about 38psi, perfect per the manual. > It maintains pressure when I crank, and I can hear the injectors > clicking through a screwdriver. > > So the FI system seems good. > > So my next guess is that its ignition. So I hooked my inductive > timing light to #2 plug and zip-tied the trigger so it would stay on. > When I crank the engine the timing light does not blink at ALL. After > I've cranked it 7 or 8 times (for about 4 seconds at a time) I will > start to get a blink from the timing light right after I release the > key! Once it starts doing this, it will start within the next couple > of trys, but it still only sparks when the key is released from the > start position to the run position. Once the engine starts I get a > consistant and non-wobbly spark indicated by the light. I did the > same test with the same results using an inline spark tester. > > The book (I think I have a chiltons) has some ignition tests for me to > go through, which I will do tomorrow morning, but I'd really just like > to get this darn thing fixed. Anyone have any idea what this problem > is? Alan, I've had this! See the PGM-FI article in Miscellanea section of my website. -- Graham W http://www.gcw.org.uk/ PGM-FI page updated, Graphics Tutorial WIMBORNE http://www.wessex-astro-society.freeserve.co.uk/ Wessex Dorset UK Astro Society's Web pages, Info, Meeting Dates, Sites & Maps Change 'news' to 'sewn' in my Reply address to avoid my spam filter. |
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#4
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Alan Russell > wrote:
> When I crank the engine the timing light does not blink at ALL. After > I've cranked it 7 or 8 times (for about 4 seconds at a time) I will > start to get a blink from the timing light right after I release the Sounds like a bad ignition switch. There's a "start" terminal on the switch, and IG1, and IG2. IG1 is supposed to be connected in the start or run position, and IG2 in the run position only. You aren't getting spark in the start position, but you are in the run position. Usually it is the other way, with no spark in "run", so it starts, and dies as soon as you let go of the key, but I suppose it could fail either way. There are also some relays involved in Honda Ignitions, so one of those might be bad. You can check the ignition switch wiring with a test light. --- Clarence A Dold - Hidden Valley (Lake County) CA USA 38.8-122.5 |
#5
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In our shop we find out where the power goes in to the coil, if that is
good, we replace the distributor as a unit. It takes care of other potential problems in the future. All parts to control the fuel pulse and spark are in the distributor. Steve "Alan Russell" > wrote in message om... > My wifes Honda won't start when it's been sitting for 6 hours or so. > I hesitate to call it cold, as we live in South Florida and it does > this when it's 95 degrees out, but it technically is a 'cold start' > issue. > > So here is what I've done. Attache a FI pressure test guage. As soon > as I turn the key the guage reads about 38psi, perfect per the manual. > It maintains pressure when I crank, and I can hear the injectors > clicking through a screwdriver. > > So the FI system seems good. > > So my next guess is that its ignition. So I hooked my inductive > timing light to #2 plug and zip-tied the trigger so it would stay on. > When I crank the engine the timing light does not blink at ALL. After > I've cranked it 7 or 8 times (for about 4 seconds at a time) I will > start to get a blink from the timing light right after I release the > key! Once it starts doing this, it will start within the next couple > of trys, but it still only sparks when the key is released from the > start position to the run position. Once the engine starts I get a > consistant and non-wobbly spark indicated by the light. I did the > same test with the same results using an inline spark tester. > > The book (I think I have a chiltons) has some ignition tests for me to > go through, which I will do tomorrow morning, but I'd really just like > to get this darn thing fixed. Anyone have any idea what this problem > is? > > Alan |
#6
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So far I am convinced that Honda builds crap.
The car has new plugs, wires, cap, rotor and such about 5k ago. According to the ignition tests I've done, I do not seem to get a spark signal from the ECU. I guess it could be the crank angle sensor not telling the ECU to send a spark, or the ECU is crap. Maybe it is a rely, but my sevice book doesn't seem to delve into them very well. I hate this damn car. I married into it. Her next car will be a Mazda! |
#7
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Well I did the testing on the ignition module that I found at:
http://techauto.tripod.com/s.htm I was not getting a signal on the wire from the ECU to the ignitor. I traced the wire to the ECU and verified continuity. So the problem at this point, near as I could tell, was ECU or Crank Angle Sensor. So I went to the junkyard and got a replacement distributor. It cost $160. It made everything work, I think. That leads me to belive it was the CAS, but I can not find any way to test it other than to ohm it out (it ohms fine). Anyway, that's the way it is. |
#8
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"Alan Russell" > wrote in message
> My wifes Honda won't start when it's been sitting for 6 hours or so. > I hesitate to call it cold, as we live in South Florida and it does > this when it's 95 degrees out, but it technically is a 'cold start' > issue. Sorry to hear about your car problem. My friend had bought a new 2000 Civic, and it had starting problems. Since it was so new, he was able to get another replacement car from the dealership. Unfortunately, your problem did not occur until after warranty expired. The lesson I learned is never again will I buy a first-year model. -- Disclaimer: This post is solely an individual opinion and does not speak on behalf of any organization. |
#9
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DC wrote:
> "Alan Russell" > wrote in message > >>My wifes Honda won't start when it's been sitting for 6 hours or so. >>I hesitate to call it cold, as we live in South Florida and it does >>this when it's 95 degrees out, but it technically is a 'cold start' >>issue. > > > Sorry to hear about your car problem. My friend had bought a new 2000 Civic, > and it had starting problems. Since it was so new, he was able to get > another replacement car from the dealership. Unfortunately, your problem did > not occur until after warranty expired. The lesson I learned is never again > will I buy a first-year model. > > wasnt the 2000 models the last of the previous generation? aka 96-00? the only problem ive had with my 98 civic was an O2 sensor, and i got a new one at the dealer. its still too "new" to me to be putting aftermarket stuff on. i could have gone with an online OEM dealer, but didnt want to wait. was it worth the additional $100 to have it same day and install it myself in 10mins? dunno. i didnt want to drive it the way it was, since the MIL was on, and it was stalling at stop signs. total cost for the unscheduled repair? about $350. $250 for the sensor, $100 for the actron scantool. so that brings me up to $50/yr average for unscheduled repairs! glad i dint go with an extended warranty, ya know? |
#10
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