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bumper rechrome get-ready steps - DIY preparation & dent filling...



 
 
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  #1  
Old March 12th 04, 04:56 AM
bill yohler
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Default bumper rechrome get-ready steps - DIY preparation & dent filling...

read somewhere silver solder was the ONLY acceptable 'filler' for
small dings prior to chroming and/or rechroming steel bumper
parts....what about brass, as in 'brazed in' filled and filed flat
small dings? would that work? (I got plenty of brazing rods, but very
little silver solder ;-)

ps - there's very =very= little info online re 'how to prepare your
stuff for your visit to the chrome shop', like, zero, far as I can
determine...

also, when they chrome, there's NO reason they can't leave the inside
'bare' is there? I'd prefer anti-rust primers and/or epoxy primers in
there, over that 'rust-real-quick' brand silver stuff they usually
use...

thanks for the education :-)

"Mr Chrome Novice"
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  #2  
Old March 12th 04, 12:04 PM
Refinish King
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Default

They plate the inside with plain old nickle:

You can use brazing rod, you can use silver solder, you can use lead. But,
why don't you knock out the dent, then grind it smooth with successively
finer grit gringing disks?

Like the bumper straighteners/chromers do and like I do. I once filled a
rust hole by migging it shut. Mig, then grind, mig, then grind. Till it was
filled.

Then off to the chromers.

Refinish King


"bill yohler" > wrote in message
om...
> read somewhere silver solder was the ONLY acceptable 'filler' for
> small dings prior to chroming and/or rechroming steel bumper
> parts....what about brass, as in 'brazed in' filled and filed flat
> small dings? would that work? (I got plenty of brazing rods, but very
> little silver solder ;-)
>
> ps - there's very =very= little info online re 'how to prepare your
> stuff for your visit to the chrome shop', like, zero, far as I can
> determine...
>
> also, when they chrome, there's NO reason they can't leave the inside
> 'bare' is there? I'd prefer anti-rust primers and/or epoxy primers in
> there, over that 'rust-real-quick' brand silver stuff they usually
> use...
>
> thanks for the education :-)
>
> "Mr Chrome Novice"




  #3  
Old March 12th 04, 01:18 PM
Steve
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Default

Brass must be OK, I've had brass sheet chrome plated.

I think some materials are copper plated before chroming too.

Steve


"bill yohler" > wrote in message
om...
> read somewhere silver solder was the ONLY acceptable 'filler' for
> small dings prior to chroming and/or rechroming steel bumper
> parts....what about brass, as in 'brazed in' filled and filed flat
> small dings? would that work? (I got plenty of brazing rods, but very
> little silver solder ;-)
>
> ps - there's very =very= little info online re 'how to prepare your
> stuff for your visit to the chrome shop', like, zero, far as I can
> determine...
>
> also, when they chrome, there's NO reason they can't leave the inside
> 'bare' is there? I'd prefer anti-rust primers and/or epoxy primers in
> there, over that 'rust-real-quick' brand silver stuff they usually
> use...
>
> thanks for the education :-)
>
> "Mr Chrome Novice"



  #4  
Old March 12th 04, 01:51 PM
Henry Votel
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Posts: n/a
Default

You are right about finding little on-line about prepping or
straightening bumpers DIY for chrome prep or paint. I've got painted
bumpers on my Studebaker trucks that I just want to straighten and
weld in holes and I'm unable to find any tips or techniques on-line
about what tools to use so if there is anyone out there that has some
knowledge and tips I would also appreciate hearing from you. Thanks!

Henry Votel
Forest Lake, MN


---------
  #5  
Old March 12th 04, 02:33 PM
JR
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Why bother, most platers do all that as prep work. I've used Tri City
Planting in Tenn, good prices ,good work, and they TRIPLE plate I sent
rear bumper from my '68 F100, mailed it to them via USPS for 12 bucks! It
needed slight straightening , did a great job! After getting it back, I
taped off the outside chrome and put several good coats off silver paint
on the inside, still looks good today, and I drive it to work EVERY day.
That was 5-6 years ago. I was told that the inside IS plated with chrome,
they just don't polish it out.Think about it, the whole thing goes into
the tank for each plating step. Check out their web site at
http://www.tricityplating.com/
I have no interest in this company other than being a happy customer!
John R. in NC

Henry Votel wrote:

> You are right about finding little on-line about prepping or
> straightening bumpers DIY for chrome prep or paint. I've got painted
> bumpers on my Studebaker trucks that I just want to straighten and
> weld in holes and I'm unable to find any tips or techniques on-line
> about what tools to use so if there is anyone out there that has some
> knowledge and tips I would also appreciate hearing from you. Thanks!
>
> Henry Votel
> Forest Lake, MN
>
> ---------


  #6  
Old March 12th 04, 06:23 PM
Ed Angell
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Default


"bill yohler" > wrote in message
om...
> read somewhere silver solder was the ONLY acceptable 'filler' for
> small dings prior to chroming and/or rechroming steel bumper
> parts....what about brass, as in 'brazed in' filled and filed flat
> small dings? would that work? (I got plenty of brazing rods, but very
> little silver solder ;-)
>
> ps - there's very =very= little info online re 'how to prepare your
> stuff for your visit to the chrome shop', like, zero, far as I can
> determine...
>
> also, when they chrome, there's NO reason they can't leave the inside
> 'bare' is there? I'd prefer anti-rust primers and/or epoxy primers in
> there, over that 'rust-real-quick' brand silver stuff they usually
> use...
>
> thanks for the education :-)
>
> "Mr Chrome Novice"


>>>> Bill,

if the bumper has to be stripped of the old finish, The solutions used for
stripping the nickel will dissolve most non ferrous fillers. Mig and grind
back if you feel you need to fill the dings, don't braze or silver solder.

Ed Angell


  #7  
Old March 12th 04, 07:51 PM
Tim Wescott
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Default

Quality chrome-plating jobs are "triple plated", with copper first (because
it sticks to everything -- it's like a primer for painting), then nickle as
a buffer between the copper and chrome, then chrome. Some cheap places will
just do nickle and then chrome, and it'll peel before too long.

I found this page on the web that explains the process --
http://www.wayhome.com/astrochrome/plating.html.

"Steve" > wrote in message
...
> Brass must be OK, I've had brass sheet chrome plated.
>
> I think some materials are copper plated before chroming too.
>
> Steve
>
>
> "bill yohler" > wrote in message
> om...
> > read somewhere silver solder was the ONLY acceptable 'filler' for
> > small dings prior to chroming and/or rechroming steel bumper
> > parts....what about brass, as in 'brazed in' filled and filed flat
> > small dings? would that work? (I got plenty of brazing rods, but very
> > little silver solder ;-)
> >
> > ps - there's very =very= little info online re 'how to prepare your
> > stuff for your visit to the chrome shop', like, zero, far as I can
> > determine...
> >
> > also, when they chrome, there's NO reason they can't leave the inside
> > 'bare' is there? I'd prefer anti-rust primers and/or epoxy primers in
> > there, over that 'rust-real-quick' brand silver stuff they usually
> > use...
> >
> > thanks for the education :-)
> >
> > "Mr Chrome Novice"

>
>



  #8  
Old March 12th 04, 07:53 PM
bill yohler
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Default

"Refinish King" > wrote in message >...
> They plate the inside with plain old nickle.

oh, ok, thanks ;-/

>
> You can use brazing rod, you can use silver solder, you can use lead.


> But,
> why don't you knock out the dent, then grind it smooth with successively
> finer grit grinding disks?


it's in the middle of a closed round steel tube bumper 'overrider'
bar, is why....

>
> Like the bumper straighteners/chromers do and like I do. I once filled a
> rust hole by migging it shut. Mig, then grind, mig, then grind. Till it was
> filled.


thanks king -much- for the tips. by the way, is there a reason you
prefer steel ("migged in") filler? does it 'take' the chrome better
than, say, brazed in brass? I realize it's stronger...

"mr chrome novice"
  #9  
Old March 16th 04, 04:56 PM
bill yohler
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Posts: n/a
Default

"Ed Angell" > wrote in message:

> if the bumper has to be stripped of the old finish, The solutions used for
> stripping the nickel will dissolve most non ferrous fillers. Mig and grind
> back if you feel you need to fill the dings, don't braze or silver solder.


uh-oh! I _knew_ there'd be a rub....thanks ed :-/

a big <reluctant> "ok/understood" to the above, but one last question:

can I safely assume that IF the existing chrome on my bumper part is
(over 90 percent of its surface area, anyway) in '_very_ near perfect'
to 'appears brand new chrome' type condition, I can safely assume
those 'superb' areas -prior- to rechroming will need 'minimal to no
prep work' by the chromers, then, correct?

thanks again :-)
  #10  
Old March 28th 04, 03:03 AM
Refinish King
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Posts: n/a
Default

Migging becomes one piece with the parent metal.

Refinish King


"bill yohler" > wrote in message
om...
> "Refinish King" > wrote in

message >...
> > They plate the inside with plain old nickle.

> oh, ok, thanks ;-/
>
> >
> > You can use brazing rod, you can use silver solder, you can use lead.

>
> > But,
> > why don't you knock out the dent, then grind it smooth with successively
> > finer grit grinding disks?

>
> it's in the middle of a closed round steel tube bumper 'overrider'
> bar, is why....
>
> >
> > Like the bumper straighteners/chromers do and like I do. I once filled a
> > rust hole by migging it shut. Mig, then grind, mig, then grind. Till it

was
> > filled.

>
> thanks king -much- for the tips. by the way, is there a reason you
> prefer steel ("migged in") filler? does it 'take' the chrome better
> than, say, brazed in brass? I realize it's stronger...
>
> "mr chrome novice"




 




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