First Oil Change Suggestions

On Dec 12, 7:10 am, "Seth" > wrote:
snip
>
> > 200,000 is a *ton* of miles, and most people just do not have a car long
> > enough to get there.

FWIW
I own 3 cars. Two have over 200,000 miles; one Honda product (Legend
bought with 80,000 miles) and one Toyota (Sienna, new car purchase).
Neither of these cars had any difficulty making it to 200,000 but the
Honda product, 8 years older than the Toyota, has required a lot more
repair work. Just had the old Legend tested for emissions and it
passed easily.

People get bored and want change. So they don't replace worn parts
(perhaps suspension) wait 'till the brakes are making noise, bring the
car in, get an estimate of $2500 to $4000 to fix all the maintenance
they deferred and use that as an excuse to buy another car.

Keeps the economy going...

"Polfus" <nostringscouldsecureyou@thestation> wrote in message
...
>
> "Seth" > wrote
>
>> That's an "almost yes" from me, I'm at 195k and change right now and my
>> round-trip commute to the office (which I usually make 3 days a week) is
>> 150miles.
>
>> Unless it gets hit by a bus, hitting and passing 200k is pretty much a
>> given for my vehicle.
>
>> This is my first time owning a car more than 3 years, so yeah, for me,
>> it's a first coming up.
>
>> Depends on what defines "the norm". People voluntarily getting rid of
>> their vehicle while they are still running doesn't count against it.
>> Someone had to receive that car.
>
>> They may not have it from 0-200,000, but when they get rid of it at
>> 120,000 someone picks it up if still running.
>
> All I hope you realize is that its not the *norm*, nor "routine".


What is the "norm"? Do you have statistics defining the "norm". Or is under
200K your perception of what the "norm" is?

When I was deciding what to buy when I got my current Accord, my decision
was heavily swayed by the common perception that lasting hundreds of
thousands to miles was indeed the "norm".

On Dec 15, 11:08 am, TomP > wrote:
snip
> See pg. 317 of your owner's manual. Which says you can use it,
> providing it meets the current API specifications and is changed at
> intervals shown on the information display
> So for normal driving there is no advantage using synthetic oil in
> your Honda engine.

I don't agree. There's considerable oil analysis evidence that
conventional motor oil does not last for 10,000 miles whereas
synthetic does.

Synthetic oil flows MUCH better in very cold temperatures, thus
significantly reducing engine wear for those living in cold climates.
Similarly, synthetic doesn't suffer from thermal breakdown the way
conventional oil does in very hot climates. Sludge is not a problem
with synthetic oil.

>
> There are thousands of Honda vehicles with well over 100k miles, that
> have never used synthetic lubricants of any kind in the engine.

True. And there are thousands of Honda vehicles with well over 100K
miles that use synthetic oil routinely.

I agree that the average driver is served well-enough with
conventional oil changes every 5000 miles given a moderate climate.
Under those conditions, I'd expect a Honda engine to last 200K miles
so long as other PM items are attended to. Synthetic isn't necessary
to reach 200K miles, it just requires a lot fewer oil changes.

On Dec 16, 5:13 pm, "Elmo P. Shagnasty" >
wrote:
> In article
> >,
>
> ACAR > wrote:
> > > So for normal driving there is no advantage using synthetic oil in
> > > your Honda engine.
>
> > I don't agree. There's considerable oil analysis evidence that
> > conventional motor oil does not last for 10,000 miles whereas
> > synthetic does.
>
> And you pay for the privilege.

How much is the question.
>
> In the end, all you get is the privilege of not stopping in for those
> few extra oil changes. You don't get a price break, that's for sure.

I do my own oil changes. Synthetic oil and oil filter costs less than
$30.
Annual costs depend upon how many miles/year you drive.
>
> In a normal consumer Honda engine, there's no benefit.
This is true in a moderate climate and for someone who keeps up with
PM but is not a DIYer.
Synthetic does allow the typical consumer the luxury of not having to
worry much about forgetting to check/change their motor oil on
schedule. Unlike readers of this newsgroup, I'm not sure the typical
owner even checks their engine oil level between oil changes.

Elmo P. Shagnasty wrote:

> In article
> >,
> ACAR > wrote:
>
>
>>>In the end, all you get is the privilege of not stopping in for those
>>>few extra oil changes. You don't get a price break, that's for sure.
>>
>>I do my own oil changes. Synthetic oil and oil filter costs less than
>>$30.
>>Annual costs depend upon how many miles/year you drive.
>
>
> So do your own oil changes with regular oil. You'll save money, and the
> engine will respond just the same.
>


What most people fail to understand is that whatever lubricant is
chosen, abrasive particulate matter is generated by gasoline internal
combustion engines and some will end up in suspension in the lubricant
regardless of the type chosen. So, the change interval would be the same
at least from that perspective.

Using a good grade of dino lubricant for engines just makes more sense
to me. Now, if one considers applications for transmissions, etc, the
picture can change drastically...

Give 'em hell Elmo!

JT

On Dec 17, 8:53 pm, "Elmo P. Shagnasty" >
wrote:
> In article
> >,
>
> ACAR > wrote:
> > > In the end, all you get is the privilege of not stopping in for those
> > > few extraoilchanges. You don't get a price break, that's for sure.
>
> > I do my ownoilchanges. Syntheticoilandoilfilter costs less than
> > $30.
> > Annual costs depend upon how many miles/year you drive.
>
> So do your ownoilchanges with regularoil. You'll save money, and the
> engine will respond just the same.

Here in southern Ontario winter temps sometimes get as cold as -30*F
and synthetic oil doesnt even BEGIN to thicken until ambient reaches
-45(Mobil 1)

Therefore in severe service and extreme climate conditions like we
experience here , synthetic is the way to go .

In the summer I use Mobil 1, 5W30 synthetic gray cap , in the winter I
use Mobil 1,15W30 yellow cap synthetic (15,000 mile gauranteed oil ).

(2002 Camry -4) I change my oil and filter, twice a year , spring and
fall, and car still uses no oil that I can discern on the dipstick.
(120,000k)

And runs like a dream.

For those interested I also use Lucas fuel treatment every tank full
of gas.

Being of a skeptical nature, when my son told me about it ? I
thought ? what have I got to lose ? so I tried it.

The car runs so much smoother now I cant really believe it.It took
about 4 tankfuls to start working but now its very smooth and quiet.
so it seems to work for me .Mileage is much better too.

I think what it does is clean the injectors and lubricate them , but
I`m only guessing , all I know is it DOES work.

Elmo P. Shagnasty wrote:
> In article
> >,
> mred > wrote:
>
>> For those interested I also use Lucas fuel treatment every tank full
>> of gas.
>>
>> Being of a skeptical nature, when my son told me about it ? I
>> thought ? what have I got to lose ? so I tried it.
>>
>> The car runs so much smoother now I cant really believe it.It took
>> about 4 tankfuls to start working but now its very smooth and quiet.
>> so it seems to work for me .Mileage is much better too.
>
> You need to drive the car without knowing what's in it. Trust me, it
> "runs so much smoother now" simply because your mind won't let you think
> you wasted your money on that stuff.
>

i'm a huge skeptic, but even i can't completely dismiss everything like
this elmo. a true synthetic does offer advantages, as listed
previously. if you potter about town at 25 and change your oil every 6
weeks, you may well not benefit, but if your application is at the end
of the thermal, chemical or mechanical scales, you will.