Had Radiator Core Replaced and Still Overheats?

On Wed, 12 Jan 2005, Comboverfish wrote:

>> Oh, come on, now, COF, I'm not sure it's a matter of sanity. I've had
>> 40-year-old radiators re-cored, with fine results. As long as the tanks
>> and brackets are intact, there's no reason not to reuse them. Of
>> course, this assumes a *competent* radiator specialist who knows how to
>> do the job right.

>>> At this point the Tstat should be replaced at a real repair shop, not
>>> a radiator specialist. And the vehicle should be diagnosed by a
>>> mechanic.

>> I'd reverse the order of those two suggestions, but I agree with them.

> Yeah, but a radiator could be had for ~$160 plus markup. It doesn't
> seem worth the hassle.

Well, you're right on that one -- new complete radiators for my
40-year-old application cannot be had.

Hi - fan does turn on.

Is it electric?

If so then you sure sound like you are looking at a t-stat or pump or
head gasket.

I would be letting it warm up with the rad cap off and watch what
happens. If you get explosive burps, the t-stat could be sticking. If
you get smoke or millions of tiny bubbles, suspect head gasket. If
there is little to no flow visible, then suspect the pump.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

wrote:
>
> Hi - fan does turn on.

> wrote in message
oups.com...
>I have a 1990 Mits van that started overheating.

May also be a head gasket on the way out ...


Stewart DIBBS
www.vysor.com/lancerproject

On 11 Jan 2005 20:37:45 -0800, wrote:
>I didn't ask the radiator shop to troubleshoot it I just told them the
>radiator was bad etc. I guess they could have tested a bit but they
>didn't. Dissapointing. I didn't realize there were other options as far
>as causes of the problem.


Bad idea. If you tell them whats wrong with it you end up with a still
broken vehicle and no recourse since you told them to replace the
radiator and they did so....

I imagine in this case you have a $10 thermostat that is sticking.
Replace that first.. Its usually in a housing where the upper
radiator hose connects to the block but I have no knowledge of your
engine so I cant say for sure.

If it still overheats you could have a bad waterpump, air in the
system or some other weird problem

Steve B.

On 11 Jan 2005 20:37:45 -0800, wrote:
>I didn't ask the radiator shop to troubleshoot it I just told them the
>radiator was bad etc. I guess they could have tested a bit but they
>didn't. Dissapointing. I didn't realize there were other options as far
>as causes of the problem.


>Bad idea. If you tell them whats wrong with it you end up with a still
>broken vehicle and no recourse since you told them to replace the
>radiator and they did so....

>I imagine in this case you have a $10 thermostat that is sticking.
>Replace that first.. Its usually in a housing where the upper
>radiator hose connects to the block but I have no knowledge of your
>engine so I cant say for sure.

>If it still overheats you could have a bad waterpump, air in the
>system or some other weird problem

> Steve B.

In addition to a thermostat, if you still have the same problem, if your
engine block has freeze plugs, they might be the culprit too.... but that's
worst case scenario. Its probably just the thermostat. what made you think
it was the radiator? Was it leaking or something? Did it just look bad, or
did the fact it was overheating make you think it was the radiator? Just
curious.....

good Luck..

fwed

"Mike Romain" > wrote in message
...
> I would be suspecting the fan isn't turning on.
>
> Mike

Good point. If it overheats at speed, of course, the fan is not likely the
issue.

If this isn't a thermostat, or a fan problem, I would start feeling nervous
about a head gasket or cracked block. But diagnose first.

Lots of guys have replaced water pumps and thermostats and
radiators, and have overlooked that lower rad hose. As they get old,
the hoses tend to get soft. The water pump (usually) draws the water
out of the rad through the lower hose, creating a low pressure
condition that can, if the flow is high enough, collapse the hose and
restrict the flow. This usually shows up at higher RPMs, never at idle.
Revving the engine while watching the hose will catch it, as long as
the engine is hot enough that the thermostat is wide open.
Water pumps get worn bearings or leaky seals. Haven't heard of
an impeller wearing out. A bad fan motor or switch is obvious.
Replacing a thermostat can eliminate that possibility, or you could
drop the old one into boiling water to see if it opens.

Dan

Lots of guys have replaced water pumps and thermostats and
radiators, and have overlooked that lower rad hose. As they get old,
the hoses tend to get soft. The water pump (usually) draws the water
out of the rad through the lower hose, creating a low pressure
condition that can, if the flow is high enough, collapse the hose and
restrict the flow. This usually shows up at higher RPMs, never at idle.
Revving the engine while watching the hose will catch it, as long as
the engine is hot enough that the thermostat is wide open.
Water pumps get worn bearings or leaky seals. Haven't heard of
an impeller wearing out. A bad fan motor or switch is obvious.
Replacing a thermostat can eliminate that possibility, or you could
drop the old one into boiling water to see if it opens.

Dan

If the vehicle has the proper mix and volume of coolant run the engine until
it is warm . If the thermostat is working the upper hose and radiator will
become warm.Feel around the radiator to be sure the entire radiator gets
warm(no blockage) Watch Your Fingers!!
Once this happens turn on the A/C,most PCM's will turn the fan on.
I didnot see the entire post,is the overheating causing a poor running
condition or is it just a guage indicating the temp? Are you useing/leaking
coolant?