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#1
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Retorquing
My repair book doesn't mention retorquing the head and or the manifold after
replacment. What is the proper amount of time/miles to wait? I am also going to set the valves, so that is a good time for me to retorque. The valve cover is covered in tubes and hoses otherwise. Thank you Rojo |
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#2
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Like several folks have mentioned when you asked the first time, just
torque it properly in the right order and in the right stages like the book says the first time and you should never have to retorque it again. My long 6 calls for torquing in stages. I decided 3 worked well, finishing at 85 ft lb.. The current gasket has 5 years of heavy off road running on it and is leak free. I do the manifold in stages too. I find the long ones need that and sometimes even a retorque in a month or two. Once the valves are set at 0 lash, they also need no more attention unless they get noisy. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Rojo2G wrote: > > My repair book doesn't mention retorquing the head and or the manifold after > replacment. What is the proper amount of time/miles to wait? I am also going to > set the valves, so that is a good time for me to retorque. The valve cover is > covered in tubes and hoses otherwise. > Thank you Rojo |
#3
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#4
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Retorquing of head bolts has in many cases fallen by the wayside, as
long as you used high-quality modern parts and followed the specified procedure the first time. If there is something either antique or exotic about the engine, you might want to interpolate among the shop manuals (preferably an honest-to-betsy factory one), the instructions that came with the head gasket, and plausible-sounding field experience written up on the Web or in club or specialty publications dealing authoritatively with your engine. Some background: http://www.federal-mogul.com/cda/con...9_7465,00.html Cheers, --Joe |
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