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Meaning of Check Engine Light?



 
 
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  #1  
Old October 22nd 04, 06:40 AM
SmartyPants
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Posts: n/a
Default Meaning of Check Engine Light?

On my 94 it means "emissions control problem".
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  #2  
Old October 22nd 04, 07:39 PM
Ulysses
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

According to my Hayne's Manual there is a sensor for the power steering
pressure. I don't know if this particular sensor will activate the "Check
Engine" light. Apparently you know but don't know how to give a direct
answer.

"Jim Warman" > wrote in message
news:kzFdd.21727$_u6.9381@edtnps89...
> Check engine light and low PS fluid level???? About a big a coincidence as
> you could hope for.
>
> As far as repairing a malfunction that illuminates the MIL without knowing
> the code and the proper diagnostic tree for that code....." my computer
> doesn't work... how do I fix it?"....... Your computer is trying very hard
> to give you information yet you don't want it...... the word goofy comes

to

OK, you can call me goofy. This a a risk we all take when we post on
newsgroups. There may be somebody out there who has very little useful
information to contribute but a very high opinion of themselves and wants
the world to know how wonderful they are.

Meanwhile, I found the list of trouble codes easily enough but I was
thinking there may be a short list of problems that actually cause the
"Check Engine" light to come on. I do not know if all of the codes cause
the warning light to come on. I'm trying to find out. It may be that there
are things that cause it to come on that I can easily check.

> mind.
>
> I can't ever recall seeing any timing chain concerns with the OHV 4.0 but
> (somehow) you know the chain is loose and find it grand that AutoZone has
> parts that you really have yet to prove to yourself that you need.


We are only talking about $60 here. I'll bet you get that much from your
customer(s) for a quart of oil. I don't know how you go about diagnosing a
problem. Do you take the entire engine apart to find out if it needs new
spark plug wires?

This newsgroup is filled with people who have actual, practical working
experience that have discovered how to fix many problems on Explorers and
are willing to share their knowledge with other Explorer owners. I guess
you are not one of them.

For posterity (cause I'm sure you don't care) the symptoms my engine is
having is pinging upon acceleration and a metallic rattle that is not
consitant with engine speed. The rattle still exists with the serpentine
belt removed. The only engine component that I can think of that could
cause such a situation is the timing chain. I will post my results so in a
few months when somebody else has a similar problem they can do a Google
search, find my post, and decide for themselves if they have the same
problem.
>
> If it is all as easy as you assume, why am I still employed?


You are still employed because your typical motorist of today is not willing
to research the problem, find the parts, open the hood, remove the radiator,
remove the belt, remove the water pump, remove the pully, remove the timing
chain cover, and replace the chain. How much do you get for such a job?
$1000? $1500? Most people would take a $3000 car to the junk yard rather
than spend that kind of money on it.
>
>
> "Ulysses" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Hi. Is there a list somewhere that tells all of the reasons that the

> Check
> > Engine Light might come on? The last time it came on ('92 EB) I found

> that
> > the power steering fluid level was low. I filled it and the check

engine
> > light went off. Coincidence?
> >
> > I found information about how to get the test codes but sometimes it

might
> > be something really simple that would not require meters and

deciphering.
> >
> > My timing chain is apparently loose which probably is affecting the

timing
> > and that might be why my check engine light is on, but at the moment I

am
> > forced because of dirt road conditions to drive my Explorer a couple of
> > miles a day and risk the chain breaking. It's either that or my kids

can
> > walk home 2 miles in the rain and mud or I can get stuck with my '78

F350.
> >
> > Also, in case everyone doesn't know it Auto Zone has troubleshooting and
> > repair information on their web site (www.autozone.com). Not only did

> they
> > have the timing parts I needed but had step by step repair instrucitons

> with
> > photos. They also seem to have recall notifications etc.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> >

>
>



  #3  
Old October 22nd 04, 07:44 PM
Ulysses
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Thanks.

"SmartyPants" > wrote in message
...
> On my 94 it means "emissions control problem".
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> reply address bot resistant and human safe
> ------------------------------------------------------------
>
>



  #4  
Old October 23rd 04, 03:00 AM
Jim Warman
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Yes... it is for power steering PRESSURE. It tells the PCM that the pump is
adding load to the motor and the PCM increases the idle speed. The only time
this switch is "tested" by the PCM on this year is during the dynamic
response portion of the KOER test. If the fluid level is low enough to show
this problem you would a whole pile of physical stimuli long before any code
generation could occur.

As for the balance of my response I thought I went above and beyond the call
of duty and offered up some good info. And we can even take it a little
further. Depending on year, make and model, some codes will not turn off the
CEL until the code is cleared (and the CEL will reset if the original
problem remains unfixed). Some codes require the problem to occur on
consecutive drive cycles. Some codes require multiple instances - some on
the same drive cycle, some on consecutive drive cycles.

On OBD2 Fords, misfire codes will not set if the "misfire profile" hasn't
been learned. Yes, there are many "pattern" failures that will set the CEL -
ask anyone that has been on the receiving end of good ol' P0401 (the
infamous DPFE sensor)... but it remains that the code needs to be known
before anyone can hope to address the concern.

BTW.... this is all free so I get to be any way I choose. You will also have
to realize that much of my employment is derived from DIYers that wont
listen to advice and make a complete "cock up" of it. Some days I'm terse...
some days I'm playful and some days I'm facetious - feel free to add me to
your killfile...


"Ulysses" > wrote in message
...
> According to my Hayne's Manual there is a sensor for the power steering
> pressure. I don't know if this particular sensor will activate the "Check
> Engine" light. Apparently you know but don't know how to give a direct
> answer.
>
> "Jim Warman" > wrote in message
> news:kzFdd.21727$_u6.9381@edtnps89...
> > Check engine light and low PS fluid level???? About a big a coincidence

as
> > you could hope for.
> >
> > As far as repairing a malfunction that illuminates the MIL without

knowing
> > the code and the proper diagnostic tree for that code....." my computer
> > doesn't work... how do I fix it?"....... Your computer is trying very

hard
> > to give you information yet you don't want it...... the word goofy comes

> to
>
> OK, you can call me goofy. This a a risk we all take when we post on
> newsgroups. There may be somebody out there who has very little useful
> information to contribute but a very high opinion of themselves and wants
> the world to know how wonderful they are.
>
> Meanwhile, I found the list of trouble codes easily enough but I was
> thinking there may be a short list of problems that actually cause the
> "Check Engine" light to come on. I do not know if all of the codes cause
> the warning light to come on. I'm trying to find out. It may be that

there
> are things that cause it to come on that I can easily check.
>
> > mind.
> >
> > I can't ever recall seeing any timing chain concerns with the OHV 4.0

but
> > (somehow) you know the chain is loose and find it grand that AutoZone

has
> > parts that you really have yet to prove to yourself that you need.

>
> We are only talking about $60 here. I'll bet you get that much from your
> customer(s) for a quart of oil. I don't know how you go about diagnosing

a
> problem. Do you take the entire engine apart to find out if it needs new
> spark plug wires?
>
> This newsgroup is filled with people who have actual, practical working
> experience that have discovered how to fix many problems on Explorers and
> are willing to share their knowledge with other Explorer owners. I guess
> you are not one of them.
>
> For posterity (cause I'm sure you don't care) the symptoms my engine is
> having is pinging upon acceleration and a metallic rattle that is not
> consitant with engine speed. The rattle still exists with the serpentine
> belt removed. The only engine component that I can think of that could
> cause such a situation is the timing chain. I will post my results so in

a
> few months when somebody else has a similar problem they can do a Google
> search, find my post, and decide for themselves if they have the same
> problem.
> >
> > If it is all as easy as you assume, why am I still employed?

>
> You are still employed because your typical motorist of today is not

willing
> to research the problem, find the parts, open the hood, remove the

radiator,
> remove the belt, remove the water pump, remove the pully, remove the

timing
> chain cover, and replace the chain. How much do you get for such a job?
> $1000? $1500? Most people would take a $3000 car to the junk yard rather
> than spend that kind of money on it.
> >
> >
> > "Ulysses" > wrote in message
> > ...
> > > Hi. Is there a list somewhere that tells all of the reasons that the

> > Check
> > > Engine Light might come on? The last time it came on ('92 EB) I found

> > that
> > > the power steering fluid level was low. I filled it and the check

> engine
> > > light went off. Coincidence?
> > >
> > > I found information about how to get the test codes but sometimes it

> might
> > > be something really simple that would not require meters and

> deciphering.
> > >
> > > My timing chain is apparently loose which probably is affecting the

> timing
> > > and that might be why my check engine light is on, but at the moment I

> am
> > > forced because of dirt road conditions to drive my Explorer a couple

of
> > > miles a day and risk the chain breaking. It's either that or my kids

> can
> > > walk home 2 miles in the rain and mud or I can get stuck with my '78

> F350.
> > >
> > > Also, in case everyone doesn't know it Auto Zone has troubleshooting

and
> > > repair information on their web site (www.autozone.com). Not only did

> > they
> > > have the timing parts I needed but had step by step repair

instrucitons
> > with
> > > photos. They also seem to have recall notifications etc.
> > >
> > > Thanks.
> > >
> > >

> >
> >

>
>



  #5  
Old October 24th 04, 12:47 AM
Ulysses
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Thanks. I just want to say, just so you'll understand, that I usually
research everything I can find before I ask questions on newsgroups. If I
have a problem with my car I make every attempt to solve the problem or find
the answer elsewhere first. Maybe I sound like an idiot, and maybe I am,
but as long as I get the information I need to fix my car I don't really
care if someone calls me "goofy" or worse.

All my Explorer Handbook says is that the check engine light is for the
emissions system. Well, a lot of factors effect the emissions so that could
mean a lot of things. And since there are sensors all over the place under
the hood I though some of them might trigger the CEL.

.. If the fluid level is low enough to show
> this problem you would a whole pile of physical stimuli long before any

code
> generation could occur.


This is what I wanted to find out. For all I knew the check engine light
would come on if a taillight burned out. Ford and Hayne's don't seem to
supply specifically what it means. They just say "have your car serviced as
soon as possible." They also say that if it comes on then goes off "don't
worry about it." Hmmm.... If it keeps coming on and going off then I would
worry. At that point I would get out the voltmeter and read the codes. But
if something like low power steering fluid could have caused it then pouring
in some goop is a lot easier than reading codes.


You will also have
> to realize that much of my employment is derived from DIYers that wont
> listen to advice and make a complete "cock up" of it.


I freely admit that I am not by any definition an "auto mechanic" unless
shadetree or backyard types qualify for that. I know enough to know that
there are things I don't know that are not in the books that experienced
mechanics all know. Know what I mean? So maybe I ask some real dumb
questions sometimes but so far the result has been that I learn enough to
not "cock up" anything so bad that I can't undo it. Besides, my truck is
worth so little now that about all I have to lose is some time and a few
bucks worth of parts.


  #6  
Old October 24th 04, 03:22 AM
DAVMO
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I put myself in the same category as you, Ulysses. In my experience with
the CEL, my GUESS is that it is caused by the "good ol' P0401 (the infamous
DPFE sensor)" as Jim calls it. BTW, don't try to get the vehicle smog
checked in Calif with that CEL activated. DMV computers are programmed to
*assume* its lit up due to an emission problem, such as clogged catalytic
converter, and your vehicle will FAIL the smog test. Test stations
generally won't tell you this beforehand. They'll just run the test, let
you fail, then say get it fixed and come back to pay for the test all over
again! Sweet deal, huh?

"Ulysses" > wrote in message
...
> Thanks. I just want to say, just so you'll understand, that I usually
> research everything I can find before I ask questions on newsgroups. If I
> have a problem with my car I make every attempt to solve the problem or

find
> the answer elsewhere first. Maybe I sound like an idiot, and maybe I am,
> but as long as I get the information I need to fix my car I don't really
> care if someone calls me "goofy" or worse.
>
> All my Explorer Handbook says is that the check engine light is for the
> emissions system. Well, a lot of factors effect the emissions so that

could
> mean a lot of things. And since there are sensors all over the place

under
> the hood I though some of them might trigger the CEL.
>
> . If the fluid level is low enough to show
> > this problem you would a whole pile of physical stimuli long before any

> code
> > generation could occur.

>
> This is what I wanted to find out. For all I knew the check engine light
> would come on if a taillight burned out. Ford and Hayne's don't seem to
> supply specifically what it means. They just say "have your car serviced

as
> soon as possible." They also say that if it comes on then goes off

"don't
> worry about it." Hmmm.... If it keeps coming on and going off then I

would
> worry. At that point I would get out the voltmeter and read the codes.

But
> if something like low power steering fluid could have caused it then

pouring
> in some goop is a lot easier than reading codes.
>
>
> You will also have
> > to realize that much of my employment is derived from DIYers that wont
> > listen to advice and make a complete "cock up" of it.

>
> I freely admit that I am not by any definition an "auto mechanic" unless
> shadetree or backyard types qualify for that. I know enough to know that
> there are things I don't know that are not in the books that experienced
> mechanics all know. Know what I mean? So maybe I ask some real dumb
> questions sometimes but so far the result has been that I learn enough to
> not "cock up" anything so bad that I can't undo it. Besides, my truck is
> worth so little now that about all I have to lose is some time and a few
> bucks worth of parts.
>
>



  #7  
Old October 24th 04, 04:11 PM
Big Shoe
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Same thing in North Carolina - if the check engine light is on, forget
having the vehicle inspected as it will fail immediately.

On Sat, 23 Oct 2004 19:22:55 -0700, "DAVMO" > wrote:

>I put myself in the same category as you, Ulysses. In my experience with
>the CEL, my GUESS is that it is caused by the "good ol' P0401 (the infamous
>DPFE sensor)" as Jim calls it. BTW, don't try to get the vehicle smog
>checked in Calif with that CEL activated. DMV computers are programmed to
>*assume* its lit up due to an emission problem, such as clogged catalytic
>converter, and your vehicle will FAIL the smog test. Test stations
>generally won't tell you this beforehand. They'll just run the test, let
>you fail, then say get it fixed and come back to pay for the test all over
>again! Sweet deal, huh?
>
>"Ulysses" > wrote in message
...
>> Thanks. I just want to say, just so you'll understand, that I usually
>> research everything I can find before I ask questions on newsgroups. If I
>> have a problem with my car I make every attempt to solve the problem or

>find
>> the answer elsewhere first. Maybe I sound like an idiot, and maybe I am,
>> but as long as I get the information I need to fix my car I don't really
>> care if someone calls me "goofy" or worse.
>>
>> All my Explorer Handbook says is that the check engine light is for the
>> emissions system. Well, a lot of factors effect the emissions so that

>could
>> mean a lot of things. And since there are sensors all over the place

>under
>> the hood I though some of them might trigger the CEL.
>>
>> . If the fluid level is low enough to show
>> > this problem you would a whole pile of physical stimuli long before any

>> code
>> > generation could occur.

>>
>> This is what I wanted to find out. For all I knew the check engine light
>> would come on if a taillight burned out. Ford and Hayne's don't seem to
>> supply specifically what it means. They just say "have your car serviced

>as
>> soon as possible." They also say that if it comes on then goes off

>"don't
>> worry about it." Hmmm.... If it keeps coming on and going off then I

>would
>> worry. At that point I would get out the voltmeter and read the codes.

>But
>> if something like low power steering fluid could have caused it then

>pouring
>> in some goop is a lot easier than reading codes.
>>
>>
>> You will also have
>> > to realize that much of my employment is derived from DIYers that wont
>> > listen to advice and make a complete "cock up" of it.

>>
>> I freely admit that I am not by any definition an "auto mechanic" unless
>> shadetree or backyard types qualify for that. I know enough to know that
>> there are things I don't know that are not in the books that experienced
>> mechanics all know. Know what I mean? So maybe I ask some real dumb
>> questions sometimes but so far the result has been that I learn enough to
>> not "cock up" anything so bad that I can't undo it. Besides, my truck is
>> worth so little now that about all I have to lose is some time and a few
>> bucks worth of parts.
>>
>>

>


 




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