A Cars forum. AutoBanter

If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Go Back   Home » AutoBanter forum » Auto newsgroups » Technology
Site Map Home Register Authors List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Web Partners

advice needed urgently!



 
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old March 8th 06, 11:24 AM posted to rec.autos.tech
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default advice needed urgently!

Hi, I'm having a late night emergency with my car. I'd appreciate anyone
helping out and would be very greatful.
It's a 96 Mitsubishi Magna SE and so far I've had no probs, had the car for
about a year now and am up to date with service. I'm a bit suss on my latest
mechanic though, as I've had to change from my old one due to a move, and
I'm not sure the new one is checking everything. It has about 95,000 km on
the clock. I've had some trouble with the lights being dim, which the
mechanic didn't help any, and a mate suggested I unplug the battery, give it
a clean, and plug it back in. The engine light was staying on a bit too long
when I started the car (normally all warning lights light up the go off) but
not at all while driving. When I reconnected the battery, and started the
car, it started up, then dropped out. When I drove it around the block it
would go fine until I braked or slowed, then the engine cuts out. I need to
get to work tomorrow, and I would really appreciate any advice. I have a
feeling it's something simple but I'm not very good when it comes to newer
models. Thanks in advance, I really appreciate anyone taking the time to
read this and help out.


Ads
  #2  
Old March 8th 06, 04:21 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default advice needed urgently!


"meee" > wrote in message
...
> Hi, I'm having a late night emergency with my car. I'd appreciate anyone
> helping out and would be very greatful.
> It's a 96 Mitsubishi Magna SE and so far I've had no probs, had the car
> for about a year now and am up to date with service. I'm a bit suss on my
> latest mechanic though, as I've had to change from my old one due to a
> move, and I'm not sure the new one is checking everything. It has about
> 95,000 km on the clock. I've had some trouble with the lights being dim,
> which the mechanic didn't help any, and a mate suggested I unplug the
> battery, give it a clean, and plug it back in. The engine light was
> staying on a bit too long when I started the car (normally all warning
> lights light up the go off) but not at all while driving. When I
> reconnected the battery, and started the car, it started up, then dropped
> out. When I drove it around the block it would go fine until I braked or
> slowed, then the engine cuts out. I need to get to work tomorrow, and I
> would really appreciate any advice. I have a feeling it's something simple
> but I'm not very good when it comes to newer models. Thanks in advance, I
> really appreciate anyone taking the time to read this and help out.
>


You need to clean the throttle body. It gets carboned up from normal
operation. Remove the air intale hose from the throttle body. Open the
throttle and look inside, you will see the carbon on the throttle place and
inside the throttle body. Using carb cleaner spray it down good and remove
with a rag, repeat as needed until clean. This should take car eof your
problem.

Mike


  #3  
Old March 8th 06, 04:30 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default advice needed urgently!


meee wrote:
> not at all while driving. When I reconnected the battery, and started the
> car, it started up, then dropped out. When I drove it around the block it
> would go fine until I braked or slowed, then the engine cuts out. I need to


You need a basic tune-up before you looks for more serious problems.
This means checking the condition of the battery, plugs, plug wires,
air filter, and as the other poster said, throttle body if carbureted.
An auto shop can test the battery and alternator. If all checks out,
you have to then check the fuel filter, distributor cap & rotor if
present, perhaps vacuum leaks, clogged muffler, etc. Basically you have
to ensure you have spark and fuel.

  #4  
Old March 8th 06, 05:25 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default advice needed urgently!


"Nexus7" > wrote in message
oups.com...
>
> meee wrote:
>> not at all while driving. When I reconnected the battery, and started the
>> car, it started up, then dropped out. When I drove it around the block it
>> would go fine until I braked or slowed, then the engine cuts out. I need
>> to

>
> You need a basic tune-up before you looks for more serious problems.
> This means checking the condition of the battery, plugs, plug wires,
> air filter, and as the other poster said, throttle body if carbureted.
> An auto shop can test the battery and alternator. If all checks out,
> you have to then check the fuel filter, distributor cap & rotor if
> present, perhaps vacuum leaks, clogged muffler, etc. Basically you have
> to ensure you have spark and fuel.
>


Your advice is good if the car doesn't run, but his complaint is that it
won't idle after the battery has been disconected. The reason this happens
is that as the throttle body carbons up the IAC motor adjusts to compensate
by opening further. The more carbon, the further it opens. This idle setting
is stored in the ECU so that when the car is started it will idle properly.
When the battery is disconected this information is lost, that is why the
vehicle won't idle. It may relearn the idle on it's own but cleaning the
throttle body will correct the problem imediately.


  #5  
Old March 8th 06, 09:44 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default advice needed urgently!


Mike wrote:
> You need to clean the throttle body. It gets carboned up from normal
> operation. Remove the air intale hose from the throttle body. Open the
> throttle and look inside, you will see the carbon on the throttle place and
> inside the throttle body. Using carb cleaner spray it down good and remove
> with a rag, repeat as needed until clean. This should take car eof your
> problem.


Agreed. I have experienced idle control problems/dying after battery
removal many times with OBDI Mitsubishis. More so than other makes,
IOW.

Toyota MDT in MO

  #6  
Old March 8th 06, 10:11 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default advice needed urgently!


"Mike" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Nexus7" > wrote in message
> oups.com...
>>
>> meee wrote:
>>> not at all while driving. When I reconnected the battery, and started
>>> the
>>> car, it started up, then dropped out. When I drove it around the block
>>> it
>>> would go fine until I braked or slowed, then the engine cuts out. I need
>>> to

>>
>> You need a basic tune-up before you looks for more serious problems.
>> This means checking the condition of the battery, plugs, plug wires,
>> air filter, and as the other poster said, throttle body if carbureted.
>> An auto shop can test the battery and alternator. If all checks out,
>> you have to then check the fuel filter, distributor cap & rotor if
>> present, perhaps vacuum leaks, clogged muffler, etc. Basically you have
>> to ensure you have spark and fuel.
>>

>
> Your advice is good if the car doesn't run, but his complaint is that it
> won't idle after the battery has been disconected. The reason this happens
> is that as the throttle body carbons up the IAC motor adjusts to
> compensate by opening further. The more carbon, the further it opens. This
> idle setting is stored in the ECU so that when the car is started it will
> idle properly. When the battery is disconected this information is lost,
> that is why the vehicle won't idle. It may relearn the idle on it's own
> but cleaning the throttle body will correct the problem imediately.
>

well that does seem to make sense, as the problem started only after
disconnecting the battery. Any suggestions on how to do this/where the
throttle body is on the car? I'm only good for older cars so I'm totally
lost on this one. I really appreciate help on this, thanks.


  #7  
Old March 8th 06, 11:46 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default advice needed urgently!


meee wrote:

> well that does seem to make sense, as the problem started only after
> disconnecting the battery. Any suggestions on how to do this/where the
> throttle body is on the car? I'm only good for older cars so I'm totally
> lost on this one. I really appreciate help on this, thanks.


If you are curious about cleaning the TB, there are plenty of articles
on the web you could search for pictures, guidance, etc. Basically,
you remove the large rubber intake hose from the engine (this is the
throttle body that it attaches to), then prop open the throttle 100%,
inspect the throttle blade and bore with a flashlight, then spray
throttle body cleaner (from an auto parts store) on the carbon buildup
and brush away with an old toothbrush. Repeat last step until squeaky
clean. Bad cases require soaking. In this instance, I saturate a
paper towel with solvent and wedge it in the throttle blade and walk
away for 15 minutes. This usually does the trick.

Now disconnect the battery again for about a minute, reattach and then
drive around until the idle quality is satisfactory.

Toyota MDT in MO


P.S.
There's a one in a million chance you damaged the ECM when playing with
the battery terminals. Two in a million considering the crap ECMs that
Mitsubishi used in that era.

  #8  
Old March 8th 06, 11:57 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default advice needed urgently!

OK, this may be way off for a mitsubishi, but i have had exact same
symptoms on a dodge durango. The battery was bad, and the plug wires
were dirty and corroded. I could start the car on a boost, and then
would take off, when i got to slow idle it would die, unless i kept i
revved...if i stayed and let it rev for 5 to 10 minutes, it would not
die after i let the engine slow down, but this would start again after
a few minutes. Turned out with the bad battery and poor connections,
the alternator was not getting enough current to the engines electrical
sytems to keep it going, unless the alternator was turning faster and
cranking out more current..

This may be part of your problem

  #9  
Old March 9th 06, 12:19 AM posted to rec.autos.tech
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default advice needed urgently!


"meee" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Mike" > wrote in message
> ...
>>
>> "Nexus7" > wrote in message
>> oups.com...
>>>
>>> meee wrote:
>>>> not at all while driving. When I reconnected the battery, and started
>>>> the
>>>> car, it started up, then dropped out. When I drove it around the block
>>>> it
>>>> would go fine until I braked or slowed, then the engine cuts out. I
>>>> need to
>>>
>>> You need a basic tune-up before you looks for more serious problems.
>>> This means checking the condition of the battery, plugs, plug wires,
>>> air filter, and as the other poster said, throttle body if carbureted.
>>> An auto shop can test the battery and alternator. If all checks out,
>>> you have to then check the fuel filter, distributor cap & rotor if
>>> present, perhaps vacuum leaks, clogged muffler, etc. Basically you have
>>> to ensure you have spark and fuel.
>>>

>>
>> Your advice is good if the car doesn't run, but his complaint is that
>> it won't idle after the battery has been disconected. The reason this
>> happens is that as the throttle body carbons up the IAC motor adjusts to
>> compensate by opening further. The more carbon, the further it opens.
>> This idle setting is stored in the ECU so that when the car is started it
>> will idle properly. When the battery is disconected this information is
>> lost, that is why the vehicle won't idle. It may relearn the idle on it's
>> own but cleaning the throttle body will correct the problem imediately.
>>

> well that does seem to make sense, as the problem started only after
> disconnecting the battery. Any suggestions on how to do this/where the
> throttle body is on the car? I'm only good for older cars so I'm totally
> lost on this one. I really appreciate help on this, thanks.


Locate the air filter housing. Follow the rubber tube from the air filter
housing to the engine. It is attached to the throttle body. Remove the
rubber tube to gain access to the throttle body.


  #10  
Old March 9th 06, 01:08 AM posted to rec.autos.tech
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default advice needed urgently!


"Mr Gadget" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> OK, this may be way off for a mitsubishi, but i have had exact same
> symptoms on a dodge durango. The battery was bad, and the plug wires
> were dirty and corroded. I could start the car on a boost, and then
> would take off, when i got to slow idle it would die, unless i kept i
> revved...if i stayed and let it rev for 5 to 10 minutes, it would not
> die after i let the engine slow down, but this would start again after
> a few minutes. Turned out with the bad battery and poor connections,
> the alternator was not getting enough current to the engines electrical
> sytems to keep it going, unless the alternator was turning faster and
> cranking out more current..
>
> This may be part of your problem
>

Ok, we called RACQ out this morning, and they said just drive it around and
flick everything on (ie lights, wipers etc) to help the ECU relearn
everything. At least through this we have found a decent mechanic, so will
be booking it in for a tune and service very soon. Going to go for a drive
now and test it out; I think it is gradually getting better with every
drive, so luckily it doesn't seem that anything major is broken. I'm
severely ****ed at the mate who told me to disconnect it; I've lost a day
off work. Well at least I can mow the lawn!


 




Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
carfax reports odometer rollback, advice needed, please [email protected] Honda 17 September 22nd 05 04:23 AM
Advice needed re. hood scratches Class 1 BMW 12 April 26th 05 07:00 PM
Advice needed on "hobby" body work [email protected] Technology 3 April 19th 05 05:32 AM
Advice needed replacing A3 brakerotors and strut mounts. [email protected] VW water cooled 5 October 22nd 04 05:14 PM
Electrical advice needed? Paul Woodsford Alfa Romeo 12 July 28th 04 10:19 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 06:25 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 AutoBanter.
The comments are property of their posters.