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Finally chose the engine for my 68 coupe!



 
 
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  #11  
Old June 24th 05, 10:06 PM
Thomas Cameron
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On Fri, 24 Jun 2005 13:56:09 -0700, one80out wrote:

> A T56 will definitely require tunnel surgery.


Really??? I was under the impression that the T5 and T56 would bolt right
in!

> I don't believe I've
> heard of any need for that with an AOD. I don't think $700 is much of
> a bargain for an AOD. Those things are not rare, and these days
> they're not young either.


Yeah, I wasn't interested in it at that price. If the T56 won't fit, I am
leaning towards a C6 then.

> I would think about the 4R70W instead.
> Here's one guy's web page on his '66's conversion:
> http://www.blueriver.net/~finite/project_od.htm


Wow - that looks like a pretty serious, expensive job. I am not sure I
want to go that route... I was really hoping for a bolt-in, avoiding any
more fabrication.

Thomas
Ads
  #12  
Old June 24th 05, 10:38 PM
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Yeah, a T-5 will go in with very little trouble, and the adaptors are
readily available. I'm putting one in my kids' '65 as soon as I can
round up the parts. But other than the fact they both have an input
shaft and an output shaft, a T-56 has no similarity whatsoever to a
T-5.

Here's a website about getting a Tremec 3550 into a '65
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/Pages/Tremec.html

Check this photo for an idea of how much sheetmetal needed to come out:
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/Pages/Tremec014.jpg

A T56 is bigger than a Tremec.

180 Out

  #13  
Old June 25th 05, 12:21 AM
Hank
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Thomas Cameron wrote:

> So this morning I was supposed to drive up, and I called them and asked if
> there was any chance the block I was getting was from a 1994 or newer
> vehicle, i.e. a roller motor. He said, "No, it's a 1970 block. But," he
> says, "I have a complete 1994 Ford Lightning engine for sale" (from the
> oil pan to the fuel injection, with computer and complete wiring harness).
> So I look it up. Hrm... 351W, GT40 heads, roller motor, fuel injection,
> plenty of horsepower and gobs of torque. So I ask him a bunch of
> questions, and find out that the engine was running around a year ago when
> the Lightning was wrecked, and has been in a covered warehouse ever since.
>
> He also refers me to a local mechanic who put one of these in a '67 coupe,
> and told me to call him. I call, and the guy says that it is not a hard
> swap, all you need is a high pressure fuel pump and lines.
>
> I ask how much for the engine, and he tells me $2600. So, there's a new
> (to me) fuel-injected Lightning 351W on a stand in the garage!
>
> I think it will be really slick - a fuel-injected 351W roller motor with
> GT40 heads in a 1968 Coupe. I am also seriously considering the Ford
> Racing blower for the Lightning - at 6psi boost, it pumps up horsepower
> and torque by about 30% according to the Ford Racing web site. And it's
> only $2050. Hell, I was planning on spending $4000-$5000 on the stroker
> motor. If I spend the same amount on this engine and the blower I will
> probably wind up with around 375-400 ponies and a more reliable engine.
>
> Thoughts?


Should be an awesome ride. I put a 351W in a 67 Fastback.
It was snug and filled the engine bay nicely without any
cutting or bending. I'd probably be happy without the
blower.


-


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  #14  
Old June 25th 05, 01:07 AM
Spike
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Painless does have a variety of harnesses to fit various adaptations.
They are pricey. There are some other wiring companies which will
either custom a set, or have sets ready or adaptable for less. In one
case the owner of the local custom rod shop advised me that I could
save about $400 with other than Painless. It's been a number of months
and I don't recall what brand he uses. You might try a Google search.

Just a thought, but....
You might also wish to do some added research with Windsor-Fox
www.windsorfox.com, and any others you can find. I haven't looked
lately, but check the Tech sections of www.mustangmonthly.com ,and
www.mustangandfords.com for related articles. Take whatever you can
find and plan out in advance what you need to do in what order. Some
of these have step by step with photos you can download.

On Fri, 24 Jun 2005 20:29:34 GMT, Thomas Cameron
> wrote:

>On Fri, 24 Jun 2005 14:06:21 -0600, 66 6F HCS wrote:
>
>>
>> "Thomas Cameron" > wrote
>>> the guy says that it is not a hard
>>> swap, all you need is a high pressure fuel pump and lines.

>>
>> It's not THAT easy. There are some things that have to be modified on the
>> harness for the 'puter to "see" things that you won't have on the '68.

>
>My understanding is that Painless can either sell you a complete
>wiring harness or modify yours so that everything will work together.
>
>> Plus,
>> you'll have to run O2 sensors in your exhaust, which means drilling and
>> adding the O2 bungs into your headers.

>
>Ugh - hadn't thought of that.
>
>> You'll also have to plumb a return
>> line back to the gas tank and then figure out where you're going to have the
>> return line return to (through the sending unit usually).

>
>Yeah, we're looking at cutting a high pressure fuel pump out of some other
>fuel tank and welding it into the Mustang's tank. Nothing like a little
>fabrication work!
>
>> If ONLY it truly
>> WAS that easy.

>
>Nothing, but nothing is ever *that* easy. :-)
>
>But it ought to be a beast when all is said and done!
>
>Thomas


Hey! Spikey Likes IT!
1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok
Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior
Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8"
w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16
  #15  
Old June 25th 05, 01:11 AM
66 6F HCS
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"Thomas Cameron" > wrote
>> You'll also have to plumb a return
>> line back to the gas tank and then figure out where you're going to have
>> the
>> return line return to (through the sending unit usually).

>
> Yeah, we're looking at cutting a high pressure fuel pump out of some other
> fuel tank and welding it into the Mustang's tank.


No, no, no. Don't waste time that way. Just buy a pump that mounts to the
inside of your rear framerail. that way you only have to rerun some plumbing
with zero mods to the tank itself. Plus there are a few places that will
modify your harness for a fee, but cheaper than buying a new one that's
already modded. Look here...
http://tinyurl.com/dnr5g
http://tinyurl.com/95cag
--
Scott W.
'66 HCS Mustang 289
'68 Ranchero 500 302
'69 Mustang Sportsroof 351W
ThunderSnake #57
http://home.comcast.net/~vanguard92/


  #16  
Old June 25th 05, 01:22 AM
66 6F HCS
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"Thomas Cameron" > wrote in message
news
> On Fri, 24 Jun 2005 13:56:09 -0700, one80out wrote:
>
>> A T56 will definitely require tunnel surgery.

>
> Really??? I was under the impression that the T5 and T56 would bolt right
> in!


A T56 will bolt right in, but the pinion angle will be WAY off and will
cause a horrendous shaking. To get the pinion angle right you have to
basically fab a new tranny tunnel to get the tail of the tranny up higher.
Do-able, but a true PITA.

> Yeah, I wasn't interested in it at that price. If the T56 won't fit, I am
> leaning towards a C6 then.


Eesh, why? Yeah a C6 is bullet proof, but the AOD's are pretty strong and
you keep OD. You can put the 4R70W gearset in an AOD and get all the
advantages of the wide ratio and you dump the whole brain box PITA.
--
Scott W.
'66 HCS Mustang 289
'68 Ranchero 500 302
'69 Mustang Sportsroof 351W
ThunderSnake #57
http://home.comcast.net/~vanguard92/


  #17  
Old June 25th 05, 03:23 AM
Spike
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On Fri, 24 Jun 2005 18:22:54 -0600, "66 6F HCS"
> wrote:

>
>"Thomas Cameron" > wrote in message
>news
>> On Fri, 24 Jun 2005 13:56:09 -0700, one80out wrote:
>>

>
>Eesh, why? Yeah a C6 is bullet proof, but the AOD's are pretty strong and
>you keep OD. You can put the 4R70W gearset in an AOD and get all the
>advantages of the wide ratio and you dump the whole brain box PITA.


I want to go the AOD route for the highway driving, but I'd like to
keep some pep.

Is there an information source for what you're talking about with the
4R70W? and will it drop in to a 65 FB 289 w/C4?

The outfit I have been talking to has been pushing the AODE out of a
late model Mustang GT, which is going to require shortening the
driveshaft, new crossmember, tv cable, etc.

Hey! Spikey Likes IT!
1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok
Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior
Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8"
w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16
  #18  
Old June 25th 05, 12:19 PM
66 6F HCS
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"Spike" > wrote
> I want to go the AOD route for the highway driving, but I'd like to
> keep some pep.


You keep the "pep" with the wideset gears from the 4R70W and nearly the
strength of the C6. You running more than 450 lb/ft torque? AOD is fine for
that.

> Is there an information source for what you're talking about with the
> 4R70W? and will it drop in to a 65 FB 289 w/C4?


It's a straight forward swap. I heard about it from the guy who built the C4
in my Ranchero when I asked him about putting an AOD in my '69. I've seen
this info on the 'net too, but can't remember where.

> The outfit I have been talking to has been pushing the AODE out of a
> late model Mustang GT, which is going to require shortening the
> driveshaft, new crossmember, tv cable, etc.


Well, you'd have to do that with the AOD also, you just don't need th
brainbox that you HAVE to have for the AODE. The AODE is n't really much
different than the AOD other than it's electronically controlled.
--
Scott W.
'66 HCS Mustang 289
'68 Ranchero 500 302
'69 Mustang Sportsroof 351W
ThunderSnake #57
http://home.comcast.net/~vanguard92/


  #19  
Old June 25th 05, 05:48 PM
Spike
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I'd prefer, I think - unless someone can show a good reason why not -
to stay away from electronic stuff. After years of fighting one thing
or another with the Firebird....

On Sat, 25 Jun 2005 05:19:17 -0600, "66 6F HCS"
> wrote:

>
>"Spike" > wrote
>> I want to go the AOD route for the highway driving, but I'd like to
>> keep some pep.

>
>You keep the "pep" with the wideset gears from the 4R70W and nearly the
>strength of the C6. You running more than 450 lb/ft torque? AOD is fine for
>that.
>
>> Is there an information source for what you're talking about with the
>> 4R70W? and will it drop in to a 65 FB 289 w/C4?

>
>It's a straight forward swap. I heard about it from the guy who built the C4
>in my Ranchero when I asked him about putting an AOD in my '69. I've seen
>this info on the 'net too, but can't remember where.
>
>> The outfit I have been talking to has been pushing the AODE out of a
>> late model Mustang GT, which is going to require shortening the
>> driveshaft, new crossmember, tv cable, etc.

>
>Well, you'd have to do that with the AOD also, you just don't need th
>brainbox that you HAVE to have for the AODE. The AODE is n't really much
>different than the AOD other than it's electronically controlled.


Hey! Spikey Likes IT!
1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok
Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior
Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8"
w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16
  #20  
Old June 25th 05, 09:32 PM
66 6F HCS
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"Spike" > wrote in message
...
> I'd prefer, I think - unless someone can show a good reason why not -
> to stay away from electronic stuff. After years of fighting one thing
> or another with the Firebird....


Exactly why the AOD would be the more desirable than the AODE.
--
Scott W.
'66 HCS Mustang 289
'68 Ranchero 500 302
'69 Mustang Sportsroof 351W
ThunderSnake #57
http://home.comcast.net/~vanguard92/


 




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