intermittent cranks, won't start

'04 Cavalier, auto trans ...
Which intermittently won't start: it cranks, but nothing happens. The
problem clears if I adjust the steering wheel tilt. So, probably a
wire/connection problem. I haven't found it yet, but expect to.

What I find confusing is, once it's started, it absolutely runs w/o
trouble, even if I change the tilt. So, it seems like the intermittent
connection is only needed with the key in the 'start' position. I can't
imagine why there would be such a thing: I'd think that circuits
required in both 'start' and 'run' (eg, ignition, fuel, PCM) would just
use a single bridged terminal in the switch. That is, in fact, what I
see in my (older) service manual. Doing otherwise would require an
extra wire.

If the switch itself was failing, it would all make sense; but, then why
would it clear when I change the tilt?

I should add, there is a remote start module (installed by the previous
owner) under the dash. I have no idea how it's wired.

Any thoughts welcome. When it warms up a little, I'll go out and tug on
wires.

G

On 2/13/2014 3:29 AM, George wrote:
> '04 Cavalier, auto trans ...
> Which intermittently won't start: it cranks, but nothing happens. The
> problem clears if I adjust the steering wheel tilt. So, probably a
> wire/connection problem. I haven't found it yet, but expect to.
>
> What I find confusing is, once it's started, it absolutely runs w/o
> trouble, even if I change the tilt. So, it seems like the intermittent
> connection is only needed with the key in the 'start' position. I can't
> imagine why there would be such a thing: I'd think that circuits
> required in both 'start' and 'run' (eg, ignition, fuel, PCM) would just
> use a single bridged terminal in the switch. That is, in fact, what I
> see in my (older) service manual. Doing otherwise would require an
> extra wire.
>
> If the switch itself was failing, it would all make sense; but, then why
> would it clear when I change the tilt?
>
> I should add, there is a remote start module (installed by the previous
> owner) under the dash. I have no idea how it's wired.
>
> Any thoughts welcome. When it warms up a little, I'll go out and tug on
> wires.
>
> G
>

I'm guessing that your starter switch should be replaced. Try not to
over think this.

On Thu, 13 Feb 2014 08:29:02 -0500, George >
wrote:

>'04 Cavalier, auto trans ...
>Which intermittently won't start: it cranks, but nothing happens. The
>problem clears if I adjust the steering wheel tilt. So, probably a
>wire/connection problem. I haven't found it yet, but expect to.
>
>What I find confusing is, once it's started, it absolutely runs w/o
>trouble, even if I change the tilt. So, it seems like the intermittent
>connection is only needed with the key in the 'start' position. I can't
>imagine why there would be such a thing: I'd think that circuits
>required in both 'start' and 'run' (eg, ignition, fuel, PCM) would just
>use a single bridged terminal in the switch. That is, in fact, what I
>see in my (older) service manual. Doing otherwise would require an
>extra wire.
>
>If the switch itself was failing, it would all make sense; but, then why
>would it clear when I change the tilt?
>
>I should add, there is a remote start module (installed by the previous
>owner) under the dash. I have no idea how it's wired.
>
>Any thoughts welcome. When it warms up a little, I'll go out and tug on
>wires.
>

Go over the remote starter wires. Those, and aftermarket alarms, are
often badly wired

George wrote:
> '04 Cavalier, auto trans ...
> Which intermittently won't start: it cranks, but nothing happens. The
> problem clears if I adjust the steering wheel tilt. So, probably a
> wire/connection problem. I haven't found it yet, but expect to.
>
> What I find confusing is, once it's started, it absolutely runs w/o
> trouble, even if I change the tilt. So, it seems like the intermittent
> connection is only needed with the key in the 'start' position. I can't
> imagine why there would be such a thing: I'd think that circuits
> required in both 'start' and 'run' (eg, ignition, fuel, PCM) would just
> use a single bridged terminal in the switch. That is, in fact, what I
> see in my (older) service manual. Doing otherwise would require an
> extra wire.
>
> If the switch itself was failing, it would all make sense; but, then why
> would it clear when I change the tilt?
>
> I should add, there is a remote start module (installed by the previous
> owner) under the dash. I have no idea how it's wired.
>
> Any thoughts welcome. When it warms up a little, I'll go out and tug on
> wires.
>
> G


during the times it does NOT start....is the Security light flashing?

GW

On Thu, 13 Feb 2014 16:57:59 -1000, Geoff Welsh >
wrote:

>George wrote:
>> '04 Cavalier, auto trans ...
>> Which intermittently won't start: it cranks, but nothing happens. The
>> problem clears if I adjust the steering wheel tilt. So, probably a
>> wire/connection problem. I haven't found it yet, but expect to.
>>
>> What I find confusing is, once it's started, it absolutely runs w/o
>> trouble, even if I change the tilt. So, it seems like the intermittent
>> connection is only needed with the key in the 'start' position. I can't
>> imagine why there would be such a thing: I'd think that circuits
>> required in both 'start' and 'run' (eg, ignition, fuel, PCM) would just
>> use a single bridged terminal in the switch. That is, in fact, what I
>> see in my (older) service manual. Doing otherwise would require an
>> extra wire.
>>
>> If the switch itself was failing, it would all make sense; but, then why
>> would it clear when I change the tilt?
>>
>> I should add, there is a remote start module (installed by the previous
>> owner) under the dash. I have no idea how it's wired.
>>
>> Any thoughts welcome. When it warms up a little, I'll go out and tug on
>> wires.
>>
>> G
>
>
>during the times it does NOT start....is the Security light flashing?
>
>GW

No. But, I'm old enough to know how often I'm mistaken. I will check
again, just to be sure.

On 2/13/2014 7:29 AM, George wrote:
> '04 Cavalier, auto trans ...
> Which intermittently won't start: it cranks, but nothing happens. The
> problem clears if I adjust the steering wheel tilt. So, probably a
> wire/connection problem. I haven't found it yet, but expect to.
>
> What I find confusing is, once it's started, it absolutely runs w/o
> trouble, even if I change the tilt. So, it seems like the intermittent
> connection is only needed with the key in the 'start' position. I can't
> imagine why there would be such a thing: I'd think that circuits
> required in both 'start' and 'run' (eg, ignition, fuel, PCM) would just
> use a single bridged terminal in the switch. That is, in fact, what I
> see in my (older) service manual. Doing otherwise would require an
> extra wire.
>
> If the switch itself was failing, it would all make sense; but, then why
> would it clear when I change the tilt?
>
> I should add, there is a remote start module (installed by the previous
> owner) under the dash. I have no idea how it's wired.
>
> Any thoughts welcome. When it warms up a little, I'll go out and tug on
> wires.
>
> G
>

I'm, not so good with new cars but on a classic car with an
automatic that would indicate the neutral safety switch
in/on the steering column. They are prone to rust and
cracked plastic bits.


--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Friday, February 14, 2014 8:43:14 AM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote:
> On 2/13/2014 7:29 AM, George wrote:
>
> > '04 Cavalier, auto trans ...
>
> > Which intermittently won't start: it cranks, but nothing happens. The
>
> > problem clears if I adjust the steering wheel tilt. So, probably a
>
> > wire/connection problem. I haven't found it yet, but expect to.
>
> >
>
> > What I find confusing is, once it's started, it absolutely runs w/o
>
> > trouble, even if I change the tilt. So, it seems like the intermittent
>
> > connection is only needed with the key in the 'start' position. I can't
>
> > imagine why there would be such a thing: I'd think that circuits
>
> > required in both 'start' and 'run' (eg, ignition, fuel, PCM) would just
>
> > use a single bridged terminal in the switch. That is, in fact, what I
>
> > see in my (older) service manual. Doing otherwise would require an
>
> > extra wire.
>
> >
>
> > If the switch itself was failing, it would all make sense; but, then why
>
> > would it clear when I change the tilt?
>
> >
>
> > I should add, there is a remote start module (installed by the previous
>
> > owner) under the dash. I have no idea how it's wired.
>
> >
>
> > Any thoughts welcome. When it warms up a little, I'll go out and tug on
>
> > wires.
>
> >
>
> > G
>
> >
>
>
>
> I'm, not so good with new cars but on a classic car with an
>
> automatic that would indicate the neutral safety switch
>
> in/on the steering column. They are prone to rust and
>
> cracked plastic bits.
>

I don't think a Cavalier ever had a column shift...

OP, if the engine is running and you wiggle the key and/or adjust the tilt column, what happens then? I'm suspecting that the coil/run wire from the ignition switch is tenuous, but taking apart a steering column to verify is not a lot of fun.

nate

On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 06:32:26 -0800 (PST), N8N >
wrote:

>On Friday, February 14, 2014 8:43:14 AM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote:
>> On 2/13/2014 7:29 AM, George wrote:
>>
>> > '04 Cavalier, auto trans ...
>> > Which intermittently won't start: it cranks, but nothing happens. The
>> > problem clears if I adjust the steering wheel tilt. So, probably a
>> > wire/connection problem. I haven't found it yet, but expect to.
>>
>> > What I find confusing is, once it's started, it absolutely runs w/o
>> > trouble, even if I change the tilt. So, it seems like the intermittent
>> > connection is only needed with the key in the 'start' position. I can't
>> > imagine why there would be such a thing: I'd think that circuits
>> > required in both 'start' and 'run' (eg, ignition, fuel, PCM) would just
>> > use a single bridged terminal in the switch. That is, in fact, what I
>> > see in my (older) service manual. Doing otherwise would require an
>> > extra wire.
>>
>> > If the switch itself was failing, it would all make sense; but, then why
>> > would it clear when I change the tilt?

>> > I should add, there is a remote start module (installed by the previous
>> > owner) under the dash. I have no idea how it's wired.

>> > Any thoughts welcome. When it warms up a little, I'll go out and tug on
>> > wires.

>> I'm, not so good with new cars but on a classic car with an
>> automatic that would indicate the neutral safety switch
>> in/on the steering column. They are prone to rust and
>> cracked plastic bits.

>I don't think a Cavalier ever had a column shift...

Right on that.

>OP, if the engine is running and you wiggle the key and/or adjust the tilt
>column, what happens then? I'm suspecting that the coil/run wire from the
>ignition switch is tenuous, but taking apart a steering column to verify is
>not a lot of fun.
>
>nate

Nothing with the key.

An 'interesting' thing today, while driving: there was an intermittent
buzzing under the dash. I reached under and flexed some wires, ... and
the dash gauges all dropped to zero. The car kept running, though.
After I changed the steering tilt, I couldn't get it to happen again.

I suspect the buzzing was a relay in the remote start module. Whether
that's the cause of everything, or just a side-effect of the actual
problem, ...?? It should make it easier to find the problem, in either
case.

On Thu, 13 Feb 2014 08:29:02 -0500, George > wrote:

>'04 Cavalier, auto trans ...
>Which intermittently won't start: it cranks, but nothing happens. The
>problem clears if I adjust the steering wheel tilt. So, probably a
>wire/connection problem. I haven't found it yet, but expect to.
>
>What I find confusing is, once it's started, it absolutely runs w/o
>trouble, even if I change the tilt. So, it seems like the intermittent
>connection is only needed with the key in the 'start' position. I can't
>imagine why there would be such a thing: I'd think that circuits
>required in both 'start' and 'run' (eg, ignition, fuel, PCM) would just
>use a single bridged terminal in the switch. That is, in fact, what I
>see in my (older) service manual. Doing otherwise would require an
>extra wire.
>
>If the switch itself was failing, it would all make sense; but, then why
>would it clear when I change the tilt?
>
>I should add, there is a remote start module (installed by the previous
>owner) under the dash. I have no idea how it's wired.
>
>Any thoughts welcome. When it warms up a little, I'll go out and tug on
>wires.
>
>G

It was a bad splice in an ignition switch wire ('ckt 3' on the Chevy
wiring diagram), buried under the dash. Whoever installed the remote
starter had cut out a factory 3-wire splice, and tried to put 3 10-gauge
wires into a 10-gauge butt splice. Not really a good fit.

That doesn't explain why it never failed after it got started. Maybe
just luck, or maybe more adventures to come.

G

On Monday, February 24, 2014 9:46:33 AM UTC-10, George wrote:
> On Thu, 13 Feb 2014 08:29:02 -0500, George > wrote:
>
>
>
> >'04 Cavalier, auto trans ...
>
> >Which intermittently won't start: it cranks, but nothing happens. The
>
> >problem clears if I adjust the steering wheel tilt. So, probably a
>
> >wire/connection problem. I haven't found it yet, but expect to.
>
> >
>
> >What I find confusing is, once it's started, it absolutely runs w/o
>
> >trouble, even if I change the tilt. So, it seems like the intermittent
>
> >connection is only needed with the key in the 'start' position. I can't
>
> >imagine why there would be such a thing: I'd think that circuits
>
> >required in both 'start' and 'run' (eg, ignition, fuel, PCM) would just
>
> >use a single bridged terminal in the switch. That is, in fact, what I
>
> >see in my (older) service manual. Doing otherwise would require an
>
> >extra wire.
>
> >
>
> >If the switch itself was failing, it would all make sense; but, then why
>
> >would it clear when I change the tilt?
>
> >
>
> >I should add, there is a remote start module (installed by the previous
>
> >owner) under the dash. I have no idea how it's wired.
>
> >
>
> >Any thoughts welcome. When it warms up a little, I'll go out and tug on
>
> >wires.
>
> >
>
> >G
>
>
>
> It was a bad splice in an ignition switch wire ('ckt 3' on the Chevy
>
> wiring diagram), buried under the dash. Whoever installed the remote
>
> starter had cut out a factory 3-wire splice, and tried to put 3 10-gauge
>
> wires into a 10-gauge butt splice. Not really a good fit.
>
>
>
> That doesn't explain why it never failed after it got started. Maybe
>
> just luck, or maybe more adventures to come.

This car has separate circuits for the start and run positions. There's a resistor that limits the current when the engine is running. If your car had no problem starting, but died as soon as you move the key to the run position, the first thing you should check is the limiting resistor for an open circuit.

The 84 Cavalier I used to have with the pushrod 4 would consistantly give me 27MPG. These days, the cars I have will give me around 17. Go figure!

>
>
>
> G