Camber Bolts

I have a 2000 SW with a bit of an alignment problem. I took it in for an
alignment (non-dealer) and got it back with a typical little spec sheet.
After alignment, front cross-camber was still listed as out of spec with a
short note that said something to the effect of "needs new cam bolts". I
have no experience with alignment issues, but assume that the bolts are
too rusted or something.

Is this something I could replace myself and then have it realigned?
partsamerica.com lists camber adjusting bolt kits from $17-27, which I am
willing to bet is cheaper than having a shop replace them. I have to
admit, I don't know where these are located under the car...

Thanks

In article <6c2f10b7cdcb6e981c80679c214d6736
@localhost.talkaboutautos.com>, says...
> I have a 2000 SW with a bit of an alignment problem. I took it in for an
> alignment (non-dealer) and got it back with a typical little spec sheet.
> After alignment, front cross-camber was still listed as out of spec with a
> short note that said something to the effect of "needs new cam bolts". I
> have no experience with alignment issues, but assume that the bolts are
> too rusted or something.
>
> Is this something I could replace myself and then have it realigned?
> partsamerica.com lists camber adjusting bolt kits from $17-27, which I am
> willing to bet is cheaper than having a shop replace them. I have to
> admit, I don't know where these are located under the car...
>
> Thanks

They are 2 large bolts, one above the other, located at the bottom of
the strut and above the cv joint (if in the front). They will be a bitch
to remove and if you need new struts now's the time to find out by
jousting your vehicle and counting the bounces. (should of been check
before alignment.) When replacing them and use Anti-Seize Compound on
all bolt threads.

The strut is held to the hub/knuckle assembly with 2 big bolts - see this
photo: http://www.evilplastic.com/photos92/knuckle1.jpg . Camber bolts
replace at least one of them with a smaller diameter bolt that's oblong
which allows some adjustment where there would otherwise be none.

Most shops (including my local Saturn) will just make the bolt hole in the
strut housing slightly oblong and use the original bolt. You can see a
photo of what the holes then look like he
http://www.evilplastic.com/photos92/nfhous2.jpg .This accomplishes the same
thing, doesn't require extra parts, and maintains the strength of the
original full-sized bolt. I've done this on both of my Saturns.

These photos are from the 92 SC suspension page on my website. Visit it if
you'd like to see more detail.

Lane [ lane (at) evilplastic.com ]
---
Visit my Saturn Car Audio and Performance Page at http://www.evilplastic.com



"oligoguy" > wrote in message
lkaboutautos.com...
> I have a 2000 SW with a bit of an alignment problem. I took it in for an
> alignment (non-dealer) and got it back with a typical little spec sheet.
> After alignment, front cross-camber was still listed as out of spec with a
> short note that said something to the effect of "needs new cam bolts". I
> have no experience with alignment issues, but assume that the bolts are
> too rusted or something.
>
> Is this something I could replace myself and then have it realigned?
> partsamerica.com lists camber adjusting bolt kits from $17-27, which I am
> willing to bet is cheaper than having a shop replace them. I have to
> admit, I don't know where these are located under the car...
>
> Thanks
>

Thanks a lot blah blah and Lane! I did not realize that it was not
adjustable to begin with, and now I have a pretty good idea how to deal
with it. I agree with blah blah that it looks like a pain, but I think it
is easier for a guy like me to replace a bolt rather than widen the hole as
Lane has done (nice website/work by the way).

In article <2b83290b11b1193cae464cc170842097
@localhost.talkaboutautos.com>, says...
> Thanks a lot blah blah and Lane! I did not realize that it was not
> adjustable to begin with, and now I have a pretty good idea how to deal
> with it. I agree with blah blah that it looks like a pain, but I think it
> is easier for a guy like me to replace a bolt rather than widen the hole as
> Lane has done (nice website/work by the way).

Well if you got the right tools to break those rusty bolts free it wont
be so bad. They are pretty easy to access once the wheels off. Widening
the hole just takes a Die Grinder. For penetrating oil I use PB Blaster.
It seems to work but some bolts it takes nothing short of a torch to
free them. Dont want to boil the fluids in your struts though.