Polyurethane glue foams on plastic radiator.

I am trying to glue my plastic radiator tank using Elmer's
Polyurethane Glue just to see if it'll hold. I've heard that this
worked fine on small pinhole leaks by a few people. The
problem is that when ever the glue dries bubbles or foams
are formed on the glue in about 2 hours. The foam is a bad
thing because it's very brittle. What is the proper way to use
this glue so it won't foam?

Thanks

On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 10:12:29 GMT, "Sam Nickaby" > wrote:

>I am trying to glue my plastic radiator tank using Elmer's
>Polyurethane Glue just to see if it'll hold. I've heard that this
>worked fine on small pinhole leaks by a few people. The
>problem is that when ever the glue dries bubbles or foams
>are formed on the glue in about 2 hours. The foam is a bad
>thing because it's very brittle. What is the proper way to use
>this glue so it won't foam?
>
>Thanks

There is a product called "Plastic Surgery" that comes in a tube and
is designed to weld plastics together. I presume the plastic surfaces
need to be DRY. I've used it on an ashtray that broke, and it
restored the product to NEW condition.

I bought my tube of the *stuff* at Kmart in the adhesives isle.

Another idea is actual plastic welding. You can buy sticks of
plastic, and in combination with a heat gun you can weld the plastic
as it melts into the radiator. I would consider that a permanent fix,
after practicing on some scrap plastics somewhere. You need a small
diameter orifice for the hot air exhaust of course. If you don't
already own a heat gun, don't bother, as they are quite expensive.

MB

MB wrote:
>
> On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 10:12:29 GMT, "Sam Nickaby" > wrote:
>
> >I am trying to glue my plastic radiator tank using Elmer's
> >Polyurethane Glue just to see if it'll hold. I've heard that this
> >worked fine on small pinhole leaks by a few people. The
> >problem is that when ever the glue dries bubbles or foams
> >are formed on the glue in about 2 hours. The foam is a bad
> >thing because it's very brittle. What is the proper way to use
> >this glue so it won't foam?
> >
> >Thanks
>
> There is a product called "Plastic Surgery" that comes in a tube and
> is designed to weld plastics together. I presume the plastic surfaces
> need to be DRY. I've used it on an ashtray that broke, and it
> restored the product to NEW condition.
>
> I bought my tube of the *stuff* at Kmart in the adhesives isle.
>
> Another idea is actual plastic welding. You can buy sticks of
> plastic, and in combination with a heat gun you can weld the plastic
> as it melts into the radiator. I would consider that a permanent fix,
> after practicing on some scrap plastics somewhere. You need a small
> diameter orifice for the hot air exhaust of course. If you don't
> already own a heat gun, don't bother, as they are quite expensive.
>
> MB

I'm pretty sure the plastics used in a radiator will be a thermoset type
that will not be thermally weldable, solvent weldable perhaps.

Pete C.

On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 11:13:40 GMT, "Pete C." >
wrote:

>MB wrote:
>>
>> On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 10:12:29 GMT, "Sam Nickaby" > wrote:
>>
>> >I am trying to glue my plastic radiator tank using Elmer's
>> >Polyurethane Glue just to see if it'll hold. I've heard that this
>> >worked fine on small pinhole leaks by a few people. The
>> >problem is that when ever the glue dries bubbles or foams
>> >are formed on the glue in about 2 hours. The foam is a bad
>> >thing because it's very brittle. What is the proper way to use
>> >this glue so it won't foam?
>> >
>> >Thanks
>>
>> There is a product called "Plastic Surgery" that comes in a tube and
>> is designed to weld plastics together. I presume the plastic surfaces
>> need to be DRY. I've used it on an ashtray that broke, and it
>> restored the product to NEW condition.
>>
>> I bought my tube of the *stuff* at Kmart in the adhesives isle.
>>
>> Another idea is actual plastic welding. You can buy sticks of
>> plastic, and in combination with a heat gun you can weld the plastic
>> as it melts into the radiator. I would consider that a permanent fix,
>> after practicing on some scrap plastics somewhere. You need a small
>> diameter orifice for the hot air exhaust of course. If you don't
>> already own a heat gun, don't bother, as they are quite expensive.
>>
>> MB
>
>I'm pretty sure the plastics used in a radiator will be a thermoset type
>that will not be thermally weldable, solvent weldable perhaps.
>
>Pete C.

Drill it then, tap it, and put a stainless steel metal screw into it.
I don't know if you're trying to plug a hole or a linear crack. Each
requires a different solution.

MB

"Sam Nickaby" > wrote in message
et...
> I am trying to glue my plastic radiator tank using Elmer's
> Polyurethane Glue just to see if it'll hold. I've heard that this
> worked fine on small pinhole leaks by a few people. The
> problem is that when ever the glue dries bubbles or foams
> are formed on the glue in about 2 hours. The foam is a bad
> thing because it's very brittle. What is the proper way to use
> this glue so it won't foam?
>
> Thanks
>
>
>

Poly glues foam when they cure. That is why they are used in loose
joints.
I usually repair cracked tanks using the plastic welder. The plastic
welds easily just don't overheat it and scorch it.



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I've very successfully used Plastic Surgery myself, after doing
something spasmodic to one tower on one of those startlingly expensive
Toyota distributor caps with integrated spark plug cables. Afterward,
I bolstered the repair externally with epoxy.

Note that gooping anything on from the outside of a pressurized system
is going to be a temporary fix at best. This guides the choice of what
to use (Plastic Surgery maybe, if he can get at the sides and has all
the missing pieces; glue probably not) and how to use it.

Worth trying, but keep an eye on the repairs and enough money in the
bank to getcha a new radiator...

Cheers,
--Joe

Sam Nickaby wrote:
> I am trying to glue my plastic radiator tank using Elmer's
> Polyurethane Glue just to see if it'll hold. I've heard that this
> worked fine on small pinhole leaks by a few people. The
> problem is that when ever the glue dries bubbles or foams
> are formed on the glue in about 2 hours.

Is this the Pro Bond stuff?

This bubbling is a feature of some polyurethane adhesives, which are
designed to expand to fill gaps. I believe that it's a reaction with
water. The piece doesn't have to be wet because there is water in the
atmosphere. E.g. moisture-cured polyurethane coatings get their
moisture from the air.

Get a two-component epoxy instead. Perhaps one of those that come
pre-formulated with fillers that turn them into a putty.

There is that one product whose epoxy and hardener are both filled to
form a paste and also dyed different colors (black and white). You keep
mixing the two until the resulting paste is evenly gray.

> The foam is a bad
> thing because it's very brittle. What is the proper way to use
> this glue so it won't foam?

There probably isnt'.

By the way, don't use this ****, it contains isocyanates, which are
very hazardous to your health. Check out the MSDS:

http://www.hunt-corp.com/msds/mp9401.htm

8.3 Exposure Guidelines

Diphenylmethane 4,4'-Diisocyanate 101-68-8
ACGIH TLV: 0.005 ppm (0.051 mg/m³) TWA

Note that 0.005 parts per million is a ridiculously small threshold
limit value. Contrast that with the solvents typically used in lacquer
thinner, whose TLV's are typically on the order of 100 parts per
million! Xylene: 100 ppm; Toluene 50 ppm; Acetone 750 ppm. What else?
Oh yes, Butyl-Acetate for slower drying: 150 ppm.

You don't want to get sensitized to isocyanates, because polyurethane
foam is everywhere. Seat cushions, insulation, moldings in car
interiors, etc.

Sam Nickaby wrote:

> I am trying to glue my plastic radiator tank using Elmer's
> Polyurethane Glue just to see if it'll hold. I've heard that this
> worked fine on small pinhole leaks by a few people. The
> problem is that when ever the glue dries bubbles or foams
> are formed on the glue in about 2 hours. The foam is a bad
> thing because it's very brittle. What is the proper way to use
> this glue so it won't foam?
>



Aren't those tanks ABS? If so, you should be able to use any adhesive
used for ABS plumbing.

On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 10:12:29 GMT, "Sam Nickaby" > wrote:

>I am trying to glue my plastic radiator tank using Elmer's
>Polyurethane Glue just to see if it'll hold. I've heard that this
>worked fine on small pinhole leaks by a few people. The
>problem is that when ever the glue dries bubbles or foams
>are formed on the glue in about 2 hours. The foam is a bad
>thing because it's very brittle. What is the proper way to use
>this glue so it won't foam?
>
>Thanks

Radiators can be bought very cheap these days. Most tank repairs do
not last long. Buy a new radiator.

Don
www.donsautomotive.com