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#11
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> > They just didnt > > bother to take into account that when you went from iron to aluminum you > > have to make changes at that time. (such as making valves larger and > > longer to reduce wear) > > Interesting, when did they change? ISTR Ford used aluminum long ago, at > least, I think they do. The C6 I did for a friend was from the 70's and > the VB seemed to be light enough to be aluminum... > 1993 for the 4L60 I think. > > The cast iron valve bodies held up great. > > Powerglide! > TH350's and TH400's were pretty decent. |
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#12
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In article >,
Blah Blah > wrote: > TH350's and TH400's were pretty decent. Ahh yes. The Turbo 350 kills bushings hard, though. Good tranny, but kills bushings. They had a stabalizer ring in front of the seal rings on later ones to help this. I'm not too familiar with the 400, other than it's a funky neat design, and early ones supposedly had center support troubles. But it's supposed to be a really good tranny after that. Beats most Mopar stuff, though some people swear by the A727.... |
#13
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More weirdness:
I recently changed the valve body on a 93 SL1 because of extremely hash shifting, check engine code, and sometimes a strange squeal. I got a factory manual, and following all the steps, replaced the VB with one from 6th Planet. But when I test drove the car, same problem was there. The VB replacement made no change -- until about a week later when I was preparing the car for the junkyard I took it for a last test drive. The transmission performed perfectly! What's happening here? Did the PCM have to reset itself to the new valve body or do I have some other, intermittent problem? What does it mean to "reset the adaptives" and how do you do so? Gary "Erick Carpenter" > wrote in message ... > > Got a bit of weirdness going on. > > The transmission has always been a bit slow when kicking into reverse. > If the car has just been started or has been idling for a bit it'll take > a quick second to kick in, but not a delay I would call out of the > ordinary for changing gears. > > After it has been running for awhile (an hour or more) it seems to take > several seconds to get into reverse. It's longer than I would typically > expect it to take, but has yet to not pop into reverse and work. > > Any ideas? > > Thanks.. > > EC |
#14
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There is probably an easier method, but I've found that the best way to
reset the engine and trans computer is to simply remove the battery cable for about 5 minutes, then re-connect it. On the slow shift to reverse, is the trans fluid full to the top mark when the engine/trans is at its operating temperature? Does it have the correct fluid installed? When was it and the filter last changed? Bob "Gary Compton" > wrote in message ... > More weirdness: > I recently changed the valve body on a 93 SL1 because of extremely hash > shifting, check engine code, and sometimes a strange squeal. I got a > factory manual, and following all the steps, replaced the VB with one from > 6th Planet. But when I test drove the car, same problem was there. The VB > replacement made no change -- until about a week later when I was preparing > the car for the junkyard I took it for a last test drive. The transmission > performed perfectly! What's happening here? Did the PCM have to reset > itself to the new valve body or do I have some other, intermittent problem? > What does it mean to "reset the adaptives" and how do you do so? > Gary |
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