Parking brake won't grab on one side.

Last CRX post, I promise! 88 CRX DX. Just did rear drums and shoes
install. Adjusted parking brake on jackstands per the manual.
However with parking brake fully engaged one rear wheel barely (if at
all) has any drag to it at all. And I can see that the PB arm/lever
behind the trailing shoe has, infact, moved at least an inch, maybe
2.. Other wheel behaves properly. I know this has to be simple, but
I can't figgur it out. Hardware and install has been triple-checked
and all seems to be kosher. Thoughts? Thx.

Kevin

Meatman wrote:
> Last CRX post, I promise! 88 CRX DX. Just did rear drums and shoes
> install. Adjusted parking brake on jackstands per the manual.
> However with parking brake fully engaged one rear wheel barely (if at
> all) has any drag to it at all. And I can see that the PB arm/lever
> behind the trailing shoe has, infact, moved at least an inch, maybe
> 2.. Other wheel behaves properly. I know this has to be simple, but
> I can't figgur it out. Hardware and install has been triple-checked
> and all seems to be kosher. Thoughts? Thx.
>
> Kevin

post pics of each side please?

Meatman wrote:
> Last CRX post, I promise! 88 CRX DX. Just did rear drums and shoes
> install. Adjusted parking brake on jackstands per the manual.
> However with parking brake fully engaged one rear wheel barely (if at
> all) has any drag to it at all. And I can see that the PB arm/lever
> behind the trailing shoe has, in fact, moved at least an inch, maybe
> 2.. Other wheel behaves properly. I know this has to be simple, but
> I can't figgur it out. Hardware and install has been triple-checked
> and all seems to be kosher. Thoughts? Thx.
>
> Kevin
========================

Can you pop off the cover at the other end of the cable and see whether
both cables are moving the same? One might have rust or other problem.
It's a very quick way to diagnose what's functioning or not. That's how
I figured out that somebody had assembled my rear drum brakes wrong on a
'97 CR-V. One cable was moving 1/2", other was moving 2". The armored
cable was on the wrong side of the guide in the back.

'Curly'

motsco_ wrote:
> Meatman wrote:
>> Last CRX post, I promise! 88 CRX DX. Just did rear drums and shoes
>> install. Adjusted parking brake on jackstands per the manual.
>> However with parking brake fully engaged one rear wheel barely (if at
>> all) has any drag to it at all. And I can see that the PB arm/lever
>> behind the trailing shoe has, in fact, moved at least an inch, maybe
>> 2.. Other wheel behaves properly. I know this has to be simple, but
>> I can't figgur it out. Hardware and install has been triple-checked
>> and all seems to be kosher. Thoughts? Thx.
>>
>> Kevin
> ========================
>
> Can you pop off the cover at the other end of the cable and see whether
> both cables are moving the same? One might have rust or other problem.
> It's a very quick way to diagnose what's functioning or not. That's how
> I figured out that somebody had assembled my rear drum brakes wrong on a
> '97 CR-V. One cable was moving 1/2", other was moving 2". The armored
> cable was on the wrong side of the guide in the back.
>
> 'Curly'
----------------------

CLARIFICATION: I'm talking about the plastic cover at the hand brake, if
yours has one.

'Curly'

On Mar 6, 10:18*am, motsco_ > wrote:
> motsco_ wrote:
> > Meatman wrote:
> >> Last CRX post, I promise! *88 CRX DX. *Just did rear drums and shoes
> >> install. *Adjusted parking brake on jackstands per the manual.
> >> However with parking brake fully engaged one rear wheel barely (if at
> >> all) has any drag to it at all. *And I can see that the PB arm/lever
> >> behind the trailing shoe has, in fact, moved at least an inch, maybe
> >> 2.. *Other wheel behaves properly. *I know this has to be simple, but
> >> I can't figgur it out. *Hardware and install has been triple-checked
> >> and all seems to be kosher. *Thoughts? *Thx.
>
> >> Kevin
> > ========================
>
> > Can you pop off the cover at the other end of the cable and see whether
> > both cables are moving the same? One might have rust or other problem.
> > It's a very quick way to diagnose what's functioning or not. That's how
> > I figured out that somebody had assembled my rear drum brakes wrong on a
> > '97 CR-V. One cable was moving 1/2", other was moving 2". The armored
> > cable was on the wrong side of the guide in the back.
>
> > 'Curly'
>
> ----------------------
>
> CLARIFICATION: I'm talking about the plastic cover at the hand brake, if
> yours has one.
>
> 'Curly'- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Actually, Curly that's what first tipped me off. The adjusting nut
and "equalizer" trail the handbrake lever in the center console area.
And I saw just that. One side was pulling far and the other side was
lagging behind. That is to say the equalizer bar and cable didn't
form right angles because one of the rear brakes is out of whack. Esp
peculiar after a brake job. I also noticed on the other side that the
cable guide problem existed too. Cable section with spring was not
behind the lower center tab on backing plate but rather on top of/
outside of it and not in the guide/retainer.. Fixed that and fixed
opposite side(problematic side) adjuster/star that was screwed all the
way in and binding.

Wondering: Is the parking brake action in any way related to the
hydraulics/piston mobility. Maybe as far as proximity to the drum,
right? Similarly, if self adjuster is not self-adjusting then
possibly shoe could be "too far" from drum to engage, right? I have
pumped brakes, started car, pumped brakes to set the brakes again.
Will try for pics shortly if time allows.

Kevin

Meatman wrote:
<SNIP>
Cable section with spring was not
> behind the lower center tab on backing plate but rather on top of/
> outside of it and not in the guide/retainer.. Fixed that and fixed
> opposite side(problematic side) adjuster/star that was screwed all the
> way in and binding.
> Kevin

That's exactly what was wrong with mine. Somebody had pulled that cable
out from behind the 'tab' and so the cable wasn't pulling efficiently.
There's something like 13 spots that need to be lubricated when you have
them open. If the adjusters wont' self-adjust, your pedal travel will
slowly get worse. Notch up the adjusters until things start to rub, tap
the brake pedal to center everything. If it's right, it should work like
in this thread:
http://www.hondasuv.com/members/show...ighlight=click

'Curly'