1998 SL2 Automatic Transmission Problem

> > They just didnt
> > bother to take into account that when you went from iron to aluminum you
> > have to make changes at that time. (such as making valves larger and
> > longer to reduce wear)
>
> Interesting, when did they change? ISTR Ford used aluminum long ago, at
> least, I think they do. The C6 I did for a friend was from the 70's and
> the VB seemed to be light enough to be aluminum...
>

1993 for the 4L60 I think.

> > The cast iron valve bodies held up great.
>
> Powerglide!
>

TH350's and TH400's were pretty decent.

In article >,
Blah Blah > wrote:

> TH350's and TH400's were pretty decent.

Ahh yes. The Turbo 350 kills bushings hard, though. Good tranny, but
kills bushings. They had a stabalizer ring in front of the seal rings
on later ones to help this.

I'm not too familiar with the 400, other than it's a funky neat design,
and early ones supposedly had center support troubles. But it's
supposed to be a really good tranny after that.

Beats most Mopar stuff, though some people swear by the A727....

More weirdness:
I recently changed the valve body on a 93 SL1 because of extremely hash
shifting, check engine code, and sometimes a strange squeal. I got a
factory manual, and following all the steps, replaced the VB with one from
6th Planet. But when I test drove the car, same problem was there. The VB
replacement made no change -- until about a week later when I was preparing
the car for the junkyard I took it for a last test drive. The transmission
performed perfectly! What's happening here? Did the PCM have to reset
itself to the new valve body or do I have some other, intermittent problem?
What does it mean to "reset the adaptives" and how do you do so?
Gary
"Erick Carpenter" > wrote in message
...
>
> Got a bit of weirdness going on.
>
> The transmission has always been a bit slow when kicking into reverse.
> If the car has just been started or has been idling for a bit it'll take
> a quick second to kick in, but not a delay I would call out of the
> ordinary for changing gears.
>
> After it has been running for awhile (an hour or more) it seems to take
> several seconds to get into reverse. It's longer than I would typically
> expect it to take, but has yet to not pop into reverse and work.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks..
>
> EC

There is probably an easier method, but I've found that the best way to
reset the engine and trans computer is to simply remove the battery cable
for about 5 minutes, then re-connect it.

On the slow shift to reverse, is the trans fluid full to the top mark when
the engine/trans is at its operating temperature? Does it have the correct
fluid installed? When was it and the filter last changed?

Bob

"Gary Compton" > wrote in message
...
> More weirdness:
> I recently changed the valve body on a 93 SL1 because of extremely hash
> shifting, check engine code, and sometimes a strange squeal. I got a
> factory manual, and following all the steps, replaced the VB with one from
> 6th Planet. But when I test drove the car, same problem was there. The
VB
> replacement made no change -- until about a week later when I was
preparing
> the car for the junkyard I took it for a last test drive. The
transmission
> performed perfectly! What's happening here? Did the PCM have to reset
> itself to the new valve body or do I have some other, intermittent
problem?
> What does it mean to "reset the adaptives" and how do you do so?
> Gary